Picking a door R value?

[N969DP]

So I got some quotes back for several different door brands with a few different R values. And want some input for if the more expensive higher R value door is worth it.

It’s a new construction house with an attached 27’x42’ garage. With one 20’x9’ door. I’m in the twin city area of Minnesota and plan to heat all winter at 50 degrees, with turning it up to 70 probably every weekend. Garage walls will have R21 and the ceiling will have R50.

The cheapest door is a R10 Doorlink brand for $2740 installed.
Second is a R10 North Central for $3290 installed.
Third is a Haas brand R18 for $5400 installed.
And last is through the builder for a R10 coplay for $5500

I don’t really care for what the dealer said about doorlink’s construction
I like that the North Central is made here in MN. And I like the Haas air gaskets the best, but hard to say if it’s really worth that much more.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'd pay good money for a good door. Although you'll never it super tight, IMHO, its worth it and no different than putting the most insulation in the wall.

You're not buying a door, you're investing in heating and cooling your garage. That insulated door is part of the equation. Everytime, the heat kicks on, you're getting a return on your investment.


The door prices sound crazy but its a big door and you're spreading the cost out over the life of the home mortgage.

 

[nadogail]

I don't think you will regret more insulation as you are heating a garage in Minnesota.

 

[Showkey]

I would pick door number three..........

The prices are in the ball park...........especially if that’s an installed price.
I was looking at 3 doors 8’x7’ they are $3k each.

Neighbor waited 20 weeks for a door delivery..........
Especially special order on 20x9 ?????

Even a 16-8 can be $5500 plus install. Ideal is Clopay company.

 

[yeldogt]

Interesting -- How thick is the Haas?

I have been using the Coplay for years ... at R18 I would use the Haas. I'm assuming the Coplay is the 2" thick w/ foam sandwich door.

Haas is typically a bit more than Coplay around me .. so maybe the builder has a nice profit built into them. They both make nice products.

The other two are not one I know .... are they sandwich doors. You want the type where the insulation is part of the structure.

 

[jamesvictor]

The R-values of most steel and fiberglass-clad entry doors range from R-5 to R-6, excluding a window. For example, a 1-1/2 inch (3.81 cm) thick door without a window offers more than five times the insulating value of a solid wood door of the same size.

Glass or "patio" doors, especially sliding glass doors, lose much more heat than other types of doors because glass is a very poor insulator. Most modern glass doors with metal frames have a thermal break, which is a plastic insulator between inner and outer parts of the frame.

 

[Hayden]

I'm finishing up my garage and just installed some cheap Cloplay polystyrene insulated doors, I think they are R6. For what its worth I paid $3645 total for a 14x15 and an 8x10 installed.
I'm in Phoenix so completely different climate, but I'll tell you the air leakage on the sides of the door is probably going to matter more than whatever R value you get on the door.
It's just starting to hit 100 here and on a calm day the garage is staying in the low to mid 80s despite having basically 1 entire wall and half of another taken up by the R6 garage doors. We had one windy day and it was over 90 in there right away. The rest of the building other than the doors is sealed up very tight.
I don't know if you're parking an airplane in there or what but 20' is a big *** door. You might think about that if you're looking at efficiency.

 

[N969DP]

I don't know if you're parking an airplane in there or what but 20' is a big *** door. You might think about that if you're looking at efficiency.

I’m building an airplane in there along with parking normal daily drivers. Personally I hate “normal” size garage doors. 12’ per car is ideal for me as it’s the standard road width and extremely easy to whip in and out without being careful not to clip mirrors. As for what I decided on the Haas lead time got pushed way out. Luckily I was able to made a deal with the builder for an R18 coplay that isn’t to far off, that will keep us on schedule.

And yeah I agree R value don’t make much difference when a ton of air can get in around the door.

 

[Craftfab]

I was planning to replace my R6.5 doors with R20 and then read this on the Amarr site saying R20 is only 6% more efficient than R8. I still plan to replace mine in future with R20 in hopes the denser construction cuts down on the sound exiting the garage when tools are running.

https://www.amarr.com/residential/before_you_buy/energy_efficiency

 

[PWilks]

Just being brutally honest, getting a good seal on the garage is much more important than the R value of the door.

That being said, I’d go with the third option or find a cloplay supplier (some suppliers an hour out of the city will drive in if you commit to it).

Bought the same size door, R18, from a guy in the brainerd area and it was $1300 cheaper than what you were quoted.

 

[bilede]

Get the doors insulated with polyurethane and not styrene if it’s heat you are trying to keep out. I have had both and the urethane works far superior.


Sent from my iPad using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[rburke65]

The seals are real important, and I went with the Clopay and their higher R. And yes, I went wi5h a 12’ wide door....love it!