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Pickle Forks: For Hacks Only?

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Bull

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What is your opinion on this? I was reading some information online about suspension work, and on one site, the author expressed his opinion that a professional would never use a pickle fork because their use places damaging levels of stress on the suspension components.

I was doing some work today and HAD to use one since I had no other way to break the connection, and I felt like a bum. it DID seem to do some damage to the rubber on the grease joint, despite how gingerly I tried to complete the process.
 
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Hiball

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I try to keep from using them, Because they do seem to damage the boots but sometimes they just wont pop loose with the Hammer only.
 
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bmwpower

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I bought this and won't go back.

6295_2231.jpg
 
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johnnybentwrench

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I would feel like a BUM if I did not get it done because some guy online said it was bad. You saved money doing it yourself:thumbup:

I always see guys into older BMW motorcycles that READ to much about how to do it properly and do not wrench enough
 
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toolfreak

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I will use a pickle fork on something that is getting all new parts and if they are getting reused I will use the kit that BMW posted.
 
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B

Bull

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Hiball said:
Bmw is this the set you have? Have you used all of the pieces? I have no idea how some of them work. LOL...

http://www.amazon.com/Danaher-Tool-Group-KDS41690-Service/dp/B000TDCCHW/ref=sr_1_106?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1304827322&sr=1-106
Click to expand...

I'm glad that you asked that so that I did not have to, Steve.

I have some pullers, but none look identical to what is pictured in that kit. In any event, there was very little room above the joint I was breaking, so I'm not sure if I could have used one of those.

Another $150 I have to spend on tools at some point, I guess :willy_nil
 
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mrbreezeet1

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Yeah, it's gonna mess up the boot.
I only use one if I'm replacing the ball joint or tie rod end anyways.
I have a few that go on my air hammer.
Thanks,
Tony

Sometimes if the stud is pointing down towards the ground, and I need to save the boot, you can put a jack under the stud and jack it up a bit, then rap your knuckle.
 
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B

bmwpower

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Hiball said:
Bmw is this the set you have? Have you used all of the pieces? I have no idea how some of them Work. LOL...

http://www.amazon.com/Danaher-Tool-Group-KDS41690-Service/dp/B000TDCCHW/ref=sr_1_106?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1304827322&sr=1-106
Click to expand...

I have the OTC 6295, but it looks to be the same thing. Around $100 most places.

Info reads:

This kit includes five popular tools used for servicing Pitman arms, ball joints, and tie rods on most vehicles.
Two Pitman Arm Pullers for large or small ball joint applications.
Two Ball Joint Separators.
Three different Tie Rod Pullers.
All tools can be purchased individually.

I've only used the one on the far right so far.
 
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srmofo

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Personally, I would be more worried about the extra stress placed on the ball socket and having a premature failure because of it. Boots can be replaced.

About the only time I use a pickle fork is when removing idler arms or pitman arms from the centerlink. And the only time those come off is when they are getting replaced so I never worry about it.

Also, theres something about wood handled mini sledges that get the job done better than any of my other steel or fiberglass handled hammers.
 
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nissan_crawler

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All I've used is a pickle fork. then again, I've never used it and not replaced the component I was using it on, so I couldn't care less. Now, on my newer cars with rack and pinion, etc...I would get the press.

In fact, for $60, I'll order it now, just in case. I really hate you guys for cluing me in to Cripes. :lol_hitti I've probably bought $500 worth of stuff from them, not sure if I've used any of it yet. Oh well, there will come a time...

If it's a plain $20 tie rod end with some miles on it, I'm probably replacing it whether it needs it or not, if I'm taking it apart for another reason. I usually bent the tierods on the pickup before they ever had a chance to wear.

It keeps the grease in it's boot, or else it gets the fork again...:spit:
 
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Fedwrench

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Cripe's is a good deal but, not a great deal.

http://www.tooltopia.com/kd-tools-41690.aspx

As for the original question, it depends on how you use a pickle fork. A pickle fork almost always chews up boots or does other damage so, I would say that as long as you're replacing what you chew up, then you're not a hack. However, if you just cut and slash your way through a job, or beat the hell out of aluminum knuckles and such, then I'm glad you're not working for me or on any of my vehicles.:beer:

I have found the puller in the middle on the left side to be my go to tool for front end work.:thumbup:
 
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Brad54

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I've always used a pickle fork... and I've never had it result in damage to anything but the boot, nor have i ever heard from anyone who could trace damage back to one.

If parts will break from driving a wedge in to separate them, they won't survive on the suspension of a car.

As for the boots, I found if you take the time to peal the boot up to slip the tines of the fork under the boot, they usually won't get damaged.

-Brad
 
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ibedayank

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if i have to remove a tierod or balljoint on what i work on it is because i am replacing them. so yes i use a pickle fork and the BFH
that and i find normaly the boots are shot anyway
 
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Stick Figure

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I've seen the beat the knuckle with a hammer until the tie rod pops method used so many times that i long to see the pickle fork in use. Personally I can usually get by with a 2 jaw puller for most of the vehicles i work on, but may have to invest in one of those sets as well.
 
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srmofo

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diesel research said:
Do you have any steel handled mini sledges to compare to?
Click to expand...

well know that you mention it...no, but I did say steel handled hammers. Im not sure I would want one either. I do however have a 36oz ball pein antivibe that can be very persuasive at times.
 
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diesel research

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srmofo said:
well know that you mention it...no, but I did say steel handled hammers. Im not sure I would want one either. I do however have a 36oz ball pein antivibe that can be very persuasive at times.
Click to expand...

I ask because I broke the handle on a wooden 10lb sledge. Welded in a stubby 1" steel pipe to the head. Greased the "handle" and pressed a piece of 1" rubber hose over the end of it. Then peened over the edges of the pipe to form a barb to keep the hose one. Think it was wrapped hydraulic hose. Making a VERY effective/comfortable mini sledge, even with one handed operation. Liked it much better than wood!

Someone stole it. We do use a cut down 10lb wood handled hammer for brake drums, but I'd much rather have the "rubber-steel core" version I had before. Light taps and many things would fall off/loosen w/o much of any felt recoil or danger to surrounding parts. (as opposed to swinging a 4lb'er wildly)
 
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nissan_crawler

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diesel research said:
Do you have any steel handled mini sledges to compare to?
Click to expand...

I have steel handled ball peens. The only advantage a wood handle has, is when you want to use the handle to pry or beat on something (yeah yeah, I know) that you don't want to mar.

After almost losing an ear by a few thousandths of an inch to a fiberglass handle, I'll stick to one-piece steel.
 
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Stephenw

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I avoid pickle forks if at all possible. Usually they will tear the rubber boot on ball joints or tie rod ends.

You can buy replacement boots at almost any parts store. They are made buy Dorman and are the HELP! brand. They come in several sizes.
 
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torqueman2002

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Stephenw said:
I avoid pickle forks if at all possible. Usually they will tear the rubber boot on ball joints or tie rod ends.
Click to expand...
I use a pickle fork if I'm replacing parts.

Usually I use 2 BFHs on opposite sides of the knuckle. This sets up a vibration in the assembly and the the tie rod/ball joint pops right out!
I have the same puller set as BMW, but I seldom use it.
 
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srmofo

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diesel research said:
I ask because I broke the handle on a wooden 10lb sledge. Welded in a stubby 1" steel pipe to the head. Greased the "handle" and pressed a piece of 1" rubber hose over the end of it. Then peened over the edges of the pipe to form a barb to keep the hose one. Think it was wrapped hydraulic hose. Making a VERY effective/comfortable mini sledge, even with one handed operation. Liked it much better than wood!

Someone stole it. We do use a cut down 10lb wood handled hammer for brake drums, but I'd much rather have the "rubber-steel core" version I had before. Light taps and many things would fall off/loosen w/o much of any felt recoil or danger to surrounding parts. (as opposed to swinging a 4lb'er wildly)
Click to expand...

Ive seen something similar before. An old tech broke his wood sledge and he found an old large shock/strut shaft. He put an old motorcycle grip on it and screw the nut back on the end to hold it on. Its been years since I worked with him though and I kinda forgot about it. I stole his idea on a little tiny ball pein that someone broke for me. Now I just leave it on wheel balancer.
 
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Moose-LandTran

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I have 8 or 9 special ball joint separators to avoid using my pickle forks, but they do have their place. There are times when nothing else will do the job and they're the only option. Front wishbones on E36/E46 BMWs come to mind, a ~3.5" threaded taper that passes through the front subframe, you ain't getting no other separator on and a hammer won't get you anywhere.
 
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LawnDart79

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I would say you're not a hack as long as you were replacing the components damaged by the pickle fork. Now in my opinion, a few small gashes or scrapes on a knuckle or other suspension components are okay and usually normal during this type of repair, but mutilating components, then reusing would fall under the "hack" category.

Depending on the job, I use either an air hammer to beat on the knuckle a little, pullers similar to those posted above, or as a last resort, a pickle fork. Each job is unique and may require a different technique.
 
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AZ_Catskinner

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I use a pickle fork with the air hammer if I've got the room to get away with it. I only use the puller as a last resort, since most of my front end work is on older stuff that needs the ends replaced anyway.
 
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JohnFreeman

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Get the puller set... Beating on the suspension beats on the whole suspension (and perhaps steering box). Plus it's not as effective as the puller .

IMHO
John
 
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Techniker

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Moose-LandTran said:
I have 8 or 9 special ball joint separators to avoid using my pickle forks, but they do have their place. There are times when nothing else will do the job and they're the only option. Front wishbones on E36/E46 BMWs come to mind, a ~3.5" threaded taper that passes through the front subframe, you ain't getting no other separator on and a hammer won't get you anywhere.
Click to expand...

How do you like those ball joint kits? I've been playing around with the idea of getting a set of my own (the shop's has long lost its adapters).
 
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