piggyback trusses

[Kaizen]

I'm almost finished sheathing my 30x36x12 garage and about to order trusses. I am not renting a crane or machine to put these up. I'll be figuring out the raising after they get here.
Because my house and neighbors house on each side of this monster have 12/12 pitch roofs I think a 4/12 would look out of place. so I went with 32 foot long 9/12 pitch ones with one foot over hang on each side. Design came back with a truss and then a little triangle truss they call piggybacks. So the big part has a flat top and the piggyback goes on top.
How should these be installed? should I attach the piggyback on the ground maybe with some bracing screwed to the side of it and the main piece so I can flip it up and not break it? should it be screwed and glued? Or since doing it that way it would be about 12 feet tall can I install the main pieces using a mark on the center of each, put in the cross braces on that part, sheath, and then add the piggybacks when I get up that far. will be doing this mostly solo using my crane/jib creation.
I called the manufacturer and they were not very helpful even though nice.

 

[MEngineer]

given my lack of experience with this specific situation and my fear of starting sheathing and finding things not lining up, I would set the bottom, brace it minimally, and then attach the tops, get the top and bottom secured adequately, then re-brace as necessary to ensure proper spacing, etc., then sheath.

 

[kbs2244]

You are going to be working 20 plus feet in the air.
How comfortable are you with that?

 

[73RR]

Sounds like you enjoy a challenge...
Raising and setting those trusses w/o a crane would test the patience and endurance of the Romans and the Egyptians....all I can say is good luck.
As for the 'piggy-back' pieces, set and sheath the main truss, then install the tops when you have a working surface to operate from...at 9/12 I cannot say 'from a working platform...'.

 

[kd3pc]

those are awfully long, and if 2x6 even heavier ....longer they are the easier they are to break if you are tilting up in the middle.

You are going to need a long tilt pole to get them upright.

At least three people comfortable at height, and walking the trusses to nail rat lines and spacers as well as to align and nail or someone will be worn out climbing up and down.

We always do the piggy backs on the ground but then we have the crane ....

I suggest you get the crane.

 

[RocketScott]

You can't really put the caps on first. After the mains are set you run purlins on the flat part at the top then put the caps on top of those.

Yes you can sheet up as far as you can then put the caps on. I usually put the caps on before the sheeting though.





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[Kaizen]

You are going to be working 20 plus feet in the air.
How comfortable are you with that?

Just like anything else the more you do it the more you are comfortable. If my jib is tall enough to lift it from recommended lift points I should be able to lift it to the right height, swing it over the side walls, lower it with the weight still on the jib, nail it to the sidewalls, and run some bracing or rat runs between them before I really need to actually get on them. they are at 2 foot on center so not like a 4 foot space.

those are awfully long, and if 2x6 even heavier ....longer they are the easier they are to break if you are tilting up in the middle.

You are going to need a long tilt pole to get them upright.

At least three people comfortable at height, and walking the trusses to nail rat lines and spacers as well as to align and nail or someone will be worn out climbing up and down.

We always do the piggy backs on the ground but then we have the crane ....

I suggest you get the crane.

This is a budget build so going to give it a go without and worst case get one. My problem is I don't have anyone else that I think is qualified to be at this height or doing this. friends and neighbors are great helpers but this is pushing it. so I 'd have to hire some carpenters and at that point I would just have them do the whole job and stay out of their way.
I'll be the worn out fat ******* you are referring to.
How do you attach the piggybacks? just screws?

 

[Kaizen]

You can't really put the caps on first. After the mains are set you run purlins on the flat part at the top then put the caps on top of those.

Yes you can sheet up as far as you can then put the caps on. I usually put the caps on before the sheeting though.

The caps don't go directly on the main truss? I lay purlins and then put the piggyback on those?

Sorry the manufacturer i'm sure has this in their instructions but won't send me anything till I purchase them.

 

[RocketScott]

Correct. The specs will tell you what the max spacing of the purlins should be. I space them evenly staying under the max spacing. There should also be a general info packet that spells out gable and other bracing.


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[landlord30]

I rented a scissor lift for my 24x40x12. It's not worth a serious injury or worse to save a few hundred bucks.

My 2 brothers and I installed the trusses. One brother and I carried them one at a time and set them up on the lift. My other brother lifted it up, stood it up and nailed it. I had a bunch of spacers cut and stacked on the lift.

My trusses were 24' long but only a 4/12 pitch. I couldn't imagine doing what you plan without at least a lift.

Good luck, be safe.

 

[rburke65]

Wow.....I had a shop put up ith an 8/12 pitch. I wrote the check. They brought in a crane and the trusses on my 32'x56' wth 13'+ ceilings, were placed and they started sheeting, in 2 hours 10 minutes. I recently cut my finger and needed 7 stitches and the bill was a little north of $3,200. What would happen if you did a 3 1/2 off tha roof? There is no way I wouldn't hire a crane. I appreciate the money aspect......good luck.

 

[Kaizen]

I rented a scissor lift for my 24x40x12. It's not worth a serious injury or worse to save a few hundred bucks.

My 2 brothers and I installed the trusses. One brother and I carried them one at a time and set them up on the lift. My other brother lifted it up, stood it up and nailed it. I had a bunch of spacers cut and stacked on the lift.

My trusses were 24' long but only a 4/12 pitch. I couldn't imagine doing what you plan without at least a lift.

Good luck, be safe.

Wow.....I had a shop put up ith an 8/12 pitch. I wrote the check. They brought in a crane and the trusses on my 32'x56' wth 13'+ ceilings, were placed and they started sheeting, in 2 hours 10 minutes. I recently cut my finger and needed 7 stitches and the bill was a little north of $3,200. What would happen if you did a 3 1/2 off tha roof? There is no way I wouldn't hire a crane. I appreciate the money aspect......good luck.

Thanks guys. One thing I really do appreciate here is everyone watching out for each other esp when someone like me says something crazy like this. So far I've lifted fully sheathed 12x12 walls no problem so I know the jib will do it as built. i'll have to extend the boom for this venture and add some bracing for structure but I think it is capable. I am working alone as said so constant making sure i'm out of harms way is number one priority. believe me if I try to do the end truss and it has issues i'll be renting a lift. once the sheathing starts to go on and safety equipment is on i'll be fine. and yes......there will be video coming.
still have some sheathing to get up on the walls but did this in about four weeks nights and weekends in New Hampshire. I think I spent about an equal amount of time clearing the snow and ice and shuffling around so I didn't fall.






I REALLY want a garage.......I blame all of you. Before we met I was a simple man.

 

[mbatarga]

I paid a crew of 5 framers $1600 and a crane operator w/crane $650 for a day's work. I got all 31 trusses on my 38x60 installed and the roof was fully sheathed with roofing paper done in about 8 hrs. That was the best $2250 I spent on my shop.

 

[RocketScott]

All our truss companies deliver trusses to the plate line. Most of the drivers will lift sheeting to the second floor if we ask. Even with my own boom truck I have them set the trusses with theirs since I work by myself and am up on the plate.

How do your truss companies unload them? Dumping them off the back of a truck doesn't sound good for them.


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[padroo]

When I flipped my 32 foot trusses I had one break in the middle and come down. It was only a ten foot wall. They are at their weakest when you get them flat. I had 40 footers on my house and rented a truck mounted crane. My house is 90 foot long and a non professional crew took four hours.

 

[Kaizen]

All our truss companies deliver trusses to the plate line. Most of the drivers will lift sheeting to the second floor if we ask. Even with my own boom truck I have them set the trusses with theirs since I work by myself and am up on the plate.

How do your truss companies unload them? Dumping them off the back of a truck doesn't sound good for them.


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Again I could not get a straight answer. Guy said some trucks had a crane but type of truck depended on what had to be delivered. I am hoping they can put them where I want but due to access I'm not sure. I had hoped they could tell me but I didn't get much help when I called. Lots of "depends" and "possible".....sounded like a Damn lawyer. What's a Plate line? Lol total noob here


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[Kaizen]

I paid a crew of 5 framers $1600 and a crane operator w/crane $650 for a day's work. I got all 31 trusses on my 38x60 installed and the roof was fully sheathed with roofing paper done in about 8 hrs. That was the best $2250 I spent on my shop.

I'd take that in an instant. I asked a few local crews and they were far north of that number in the 4K range. I figured being winter I'd get a deal. Nope. I'm sure I could get under the table per hour guys but not only do I hate having people do work for me but also scared of an injury/lawsuit


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[RocketScott]

Top of the wall.

Most truss companies around here have salesmen that come out to measure and make sure the boom will fit.

You're not dealing with a lot of variables and they should be able to figure it out pretty easily. Tell them to deliver them to plate line or don't bother. Sounds like they are being noncommittal for no reason.


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[rburke65]

Kaizen......yes this forum should be regulated under the FDA.....it's like a drug.....makes ya spend that money. Good luck.

 

[larry4406]

Your truss drawings will show the piggy back to base truss connection.

Typically there are 2x4's laid flat atop the base truss running the length of the roof to provide bracing. The houses I build have between 5-7 purlins spaced equally apart from each other. The piggy back truss then rests on top of the purlins and is nailed to the purlins. You then apply "scabs" which are 2x4's that are 4-6' long to the sloped sides of the base truss and the piggy back truss, centered on the splice. One scab per side, and our framers put them on opposite sites of the base truss so that the piggy back positively locks to the base truss. Two scabs total.

 

[Jeepster04]

You had best have a group of strong buddies if you plan on lifting those trusses up and setting them by hand.

I have 40' trusses on my 40x64 barn and we didnt have the man power or time to set them by hand. I lucked out and a local contractor was building a home right next to our property. Paid him $300 for him to come and pick them up with his telehandler and set them up on the walls. Took us 4-5 hours to get them all up and braced. Worked great.

The place that made my truss simply rolled them off a truck. It seems they controlled the slide someway since the trusses didn't dig down into the ground like material normally does, I wasn't there when they dropped them off. They put all of the metal on top of the truss for shipment, telehandler made quick work of lifting all of the metal up and placing it right by the building so we wouldnt have to walk far to get it. It wouldve taken us hours to move the metal by hand.

Im all about saving money, Ive built a 40x64 garage for ~$10/sqft, but sometimes its cheaper to hire help.

Im assuming 'plate' means the top of the wall.

 

[Kaizen]

OK I figured I should spend a few weeks getting some more quotes from different places. Now that I have them i'm concerned i'm missing something due to the wide variance of the quotes.
the specs are 32 foot long w/1 foot overhangs on each side.
2 foot on center so 17 trusses and 2 end trusses.
required 49 snow load. all quoted 60 or 65 which is great.
8/12 pitch is what I decided on so it should be one piece trusses.
None of them would entertain delivering trusses to my plate but include delivery to site.

Local lumber places were between 3600 and 4000.
Lowes was 3600 but screwed up the quote so probably higher.
Hd came back at 2555.


Is this 1000 dollar difference normal? There are only two truss manufacturers in this area. I still have to go down there to review the quote but he read back the specs and they were accurate. Is there something I should be asking that i'm not?

 

[73RR]

Local lumber yards, whether mom 'n pop type or part of a big chain, are rarely the best price on roof trusses. Have you contacted any of the truss manufacturers direct? Are there other shops around that have a larger delivery area? I had some delivered once from a truss shop that was almost 200 miles away and they were still cheaper than the local guys.

Not surprised that HD is at the low end but now you might be able to save some additional money....take the HD quote to Lowes and see if they will beat it.
From your description of the trusses I think $2550 is a super deal.

 

[Kaizen]

Local lumber yards, whether mom 'n pop type or part of a big chain, are rarely the best price on roof trusses. Have you contacted any of the truss manufacturers direct? Are there other shops around that have a larger delivery area? I had some delivered once from a truss shop that was almost 200 miles away and they were still cheaper than the local guys.

Not surprised that HD is at the low end but now you might be able to save some additional money....take the HD quote to Lowes and see if they will beat it.
From your description of the trusses I think $2550 is a super deal.

These two manufacturers do not deal direct. I think they cover about 100 miles. If I buy in NH I don't pay sales tax. All other states do so price will be more. The only two other plants in surrounding states that I know of are the same companies. Not sure I want to deal with lowes. although their studs are by far better then any others the pro desk actually lost my name and number. so when I called back they were like oh yea we lost your number. not sure I want to trust them to put in the order.