pigtail plug boxes - maybe aka suspended receptacles

[billconner]

I've decided to use plug and cord connected led strips to illuminate garage - basically 5 rows of 2. I wanted to feed each pair with a duplex but cords supplied with fixtures are not long enough. All my career I've designed stage lighting systems with pig tail boxes like these:




And I found this:


Would a box with proper clamps and cord - 12/3 SO if 20 amp - and a receptacle - be code compliant? 2 pigtails on a box. I never used kellums for a single circuit and receptacle, just for boxes or many conductor cables. Seems simpler than double the number of boxes.

 

[Shiftless]

Without seeing your layout, I’d just say that to me, double the number of boxes would be simpler and better looking.

 

[billconner]

There's a beam on centerline, with ceiling joists crossing it, so wanted to mount 1 box on side of beam to serve 2 lights - EMT between them with other circuits - so adds two boxes to keep the majority on center beam. I could consider flex or BX and two boxes - but that is now 3 boxes for each pair rather than one with 2 pigtails.

 

[Norcal]

I've decided to use plug and cord connected led strips to illuminate garage - basically 5 rows of 2. I wanted to feed each pair with a duplex but cords supplied with fixtures are not long enough. All my career I've designed stage lighting systems with pig tail boxes like these:




And I found this:


Would a box with proper clamps and cord - 12/3 SO if 20 amp - and a receptacle - be code compliant? 2 pigtails on a box. I never used kellums for a single circuit and receptacle, just for boxes or many conductor cables. Seems simpler than double the number of boxes.

Anyone using a handy box should be whipped for 30 days & 30 nights, but a lag hook & a Kellems support grip works great for a pendent drop.

 

[billconner]

There would be no load on this other than the cord and plug. I think a kellums would be a little overkill.

Do you consider any drawn steel junction box a "handy box" or only the single gang versions? What would you use for a surface mounted box if not drawn steel?

 

[PCustoms]

Do you consider any drawn steel junction box a "handy box" or only the single gang versions? What would you use for a surface mounted box if not drawn steel?

Same question.

I don't get the hate for the handy box, sometimes you need an exposed metal box, and the rounded corners sure are preferred when you bump into them.

 

[alfredeneuman]

I don't get the hate for the handy box, sometimes you need an exposed metal box, and the rounded corners sure are preferred when you bump into them.

Most handy boxes of today have square corners (along with welded sides), same as any sheet metal box.

 

[PCustoms]

Most handy boxes of today have square corners, same as any sheet metal box.

I guess what defines a "handy box"?

I can walk into a store this morning and get a single gange surface mount box with round corners. I might actually get one later, depending on how I run a few wires in the shed.

 

[cybrdyke]

I'm not exactly sure what you're doing, so take this with a grain of salt...
Light fixtures that are permanently mounted or fixed onto a surface are generally not supposed to be connected with plugs and portable cord. Yes, there are lots of examples to the contrary. If you're gonna do it, consider a twist-lock that wont wiggle loose over time.
CD

 

[sparky 1971]

Most handy boxes of today have square corners (along with welded sides), same as any sheet metal box.

There are still plenty of Raco 660 boxes being sold and installed. I hate every single one of them. Those have rounded corners.

4 in. x 2 in. Handy Box, Drawn, 1-7/8 in. Deep, Ten 1/2 in. KO's, Raised Ground | 660 | Raco

4 in. x 2 in. Handy Box, Drawn, 1-7/8 in. Deep, Ten 1/2 in. KO's, Raised Ground

www.hubbell.com

I occasionally use the Raco 670. They have the sharp corners but afaik, are the only way to get 2-1/8" deep handy boxes.

4 in. x 2 in. Handy Box, Welded, 2-1/8 in. Deep, Eleven 1/2 in. KO's | 670RAC | Raco

4 in. x 2 in. Handy Box, Welded, 2-1/8 in. Deep, Eleven 1/2 in. KO's

www.hubbell.com

 

[yatg]

I occasionally use the Raco 670. They have the sharp corners but afaik, are the only way to get 2-1/8" deep handy boxes.

Home Depot has a Steel City 4 x 2-1/8 x 2-1/8 deep box with rounded corners. But only 14-1/2 cubic inches. p/n 5837112-25R.

 

[Norcal]

Same question.

I don't get the hate for the handy box, sometimes you need an exposed metal box, and the rounded corners sure are preferred when you bump into them.

They are very rarely useful for anything.

 

[Norcal]

There would be no load on this other than the cord and plug. I think a kellums would be a little overkill.

Do you consider any drawn steel junction box a "handy box" or only the single gang versions? What would you use for a surface mounted box if not drawn steel?

A support grip is not "overkill" it is doing the job right and a 4X4 box is almost always better then a handy box.

 

[alfredeneuman]

2 sides on a welded box are welded. The back is molded to the remaining sides.
I've seen plenty of the welded sides fall out and then be hung by only the connections.

 

[Galaxywide]

They are very rarely useful for anything.

What else would you use for a box when doing EMT and AC?

 

[PCustoms]

What else would you use for a box when doing EMT and AC?

Apparently if you use the 4x2 you're a homeowner hack.

Real professionals use a 4x4, even if it's a single switch or an outlet.

Or so I gather.

 

[sparky 1971]

2-1/8 deep handy boxes are ok for a drop for A switch or receptacle. That's it. Try to pipe in and out, good luck stuffing pigtails, wire nuts, and the device in. I've seen plenty where the boxes were horizontal and piped through so I know it's possible, just not worth the effort or the pennies saved. And the normal handy boxes require the device screw(s) to get cut off or they hit the connector.

 

[yatg]

That would be a problem. I don't think there are local suppliers that carry Steel City, and I do everything in my power to stay away from Homo Cheapo.

I just went to the HD website and for $6, I'm going to use a 4X4 and a raised cover every time.

Steel City 1-Gang 4 in. 30.3 cu. in. Metal Square Electrical Box (521711-25R) 521711-25R - The Home Depot

Visit the Home Depot to buy Steel City 2-Gang 30 cu. in. Square Electrical Box 521711-30R

www.homedepot.com

Sorry, wrong number.

Steel City 1-Gang 4 in. 2-1/8 in. D New Work Metal Utility Box (5837112-25R) 5837112-25R - The Home Depot

Enjoy the Steel City 1-Gang Electrical Utility Box 5837112-20R, 10 knockouts this box is UL listed for safety and is made from durable steel at The Home Depot

www.homedepot.com

3.68 for me. They will ship them to you for free.
Still seems pricey for a box that was 1.50 a few years ago.

 

[sparky 1971]

Sorry, wrong number.

Steel City 1-Gang 4 in. 2-1/8 in. D New Work Metal Utility Box (5837112-25R) 5837112-25R - The Home Depot

Enjoy the Steel City 1-Gang Electrical Utility Box 5837112-20R, 10 knockouts this box is UL listed for safety and is made from durable steel at The Home Depot

www.homedepot.com

3.68 for me. They will ship them to you for free.
Still seems pricey for a box that was 1.50 a few years ago.

The $6 box is stocked, the one you posted came up $3.40 but not stocked here. If I need something, I need it. I'm not going to screw around ordering a box when I can swing into Menards and for $3.20 get the handy box I use three times a year. I don't care about the squared corners. I use Raco 189 and 232 4X4 boxes and a hose are squared as well.

 

[kbuhagiar]

2-1/8 deep handy boxes are ok for a drop for A switch or receptacle. That's it. Try to pipe in and out, good luck stuffing pigtails, wire nuts, and the device in. I've seen plenty where the boxes were horizontal and piped through so I know it's possible, just not worth the effort or the pennies saved. And the normal handy boxes require the device screw(s) to get cut off or they hit the connector.

Thanks for the explanation! Never looked at it that way, and it makes perfect sense.
I confess to being one of those homeowners who has been seduced by the rounded corners/neat appearance.

 

[billconner]

A support grip is not "overkill" it is doing the job right and a 4X4 box is almost always better then a handy box.

But it's not supporting anything. And a pigtail with just a Heyco is pretty common. By your logic, everything with a cord and plug would have to have a kellums.

 

[billconner]

I'm not exactly sure what you're doing, so take this with a grain of salt...
Light fixtures that are permanently mounted or fixed onto a surface are generally not supposed to be connected with plugs and portable cord. Yes, there are lots of examples to the contrary. If you're gonna do it, consider a twist-lock that wont wiggle loose over time.
CD

Good point but many pendant lights plug in, even high bays in warehouses. A little googling suggested ok as long as plug and receptacle were visible (?). So many sconces also. Is it based on them not being permanent, even if almost everyone knows it will be there for years. I've designed the lighting for a lot of theatres and the coming house light is a plug and cord connected fixture. Some people that use it hard wire it but that definitely violates the listing.

So, I don't know where in the NEC it's not disallowed, but pretty sure it will comply with code. Just like boxes with molded corners do.

 

[alfredeneuman]

I've designed the lighting for a lot of theatres and the coming house light is a plug and cord connected fixture. Some people that use it hard wire it but that definitely violates the listing.

I addressed this once before.
The Code for theaters is classed a"Special Occupancy"(NEC 520).
It is not the under same rules as for general circuitry.

 

[alfredeneuman]

Good point but many pendant lights plug in, even high bays in warehouses

The high bays in warehouses are supposed to be removable for maintenance, and have some sort of "hook and eye" attachment method. (It's a chore doing them 25' in the air). They're also required to have supplemental cables or chains in case the fixture falls off the hook
Pendant means hung by the cord itself, which would be a real liability in a warehouse if plugged in.

 

[billconner]

I addressed this once before.
The Code for theaters is classed a"Special Occupancy"(NEC 520).
It is not the under same rules as for general circuitry.

520 covers stage and studio lighting - the production equipment - not the basic architectural lighting - like house lights. And it covers this equipment in any occupancy, not just theaters. I've done several office building lobbies with theatre lighting, and 520 definitely applied. It would apply if I put a stage and studio light in my house.

 

[billconner]

The high bays in warehouses are supposed to be removable for maintenance, and have some sort of "hook and eye" attachment method. (It's a chore doing them 25' in the air). They're also required to have supplemental cables or chains in case the fixture falls off the hook
Pendant means hung by the cord itself, which would be a real liability in a warehouse if plugged in.

Interesting definition of pendant - and I don't think from NEC. So what do you call a light hanging on a stem or chain or cable? And I guess my planned led strips, hung on chains, then aren't pendant? Similar to the high bays, on chains, and cord and plug connected.

The NEC may have a "fixture directly below receptacle" requirement for cord and plug connected luminaries. And the cord needs to be visible. I do know a fixture listed with cord and plug cannot be hard wired.

So many listed hanging fixtures, just hard to believe they are not allowed by code.

 

[alfredeneuman]

Interesting definition of pendant - and I don't think from NEC

No it's not. It's from OSHA

"pendants (typically, a lampholder or cord-connector body suspended by a length of cord properly secured and terminated directly above the suspended device); wiring of fixtures; connection of portable lamps or appliances; connection of stationary equipment to facilitate their frequent interchange"

 

[billconner]

It's a dwelling. I'm only interested in NEC, not OSHA. Not persuaded that a light on a chain isn't pendant.

 

[Norcal]

If you want to be a hack nobody here can or will stop you, but a cord suspended off a Romex connector is not a good thing, a lighting fixture suspended that way is part of a listed assembly and other then being bumped in use or by being relamped is not subject to much stress, a cord suspended with a box or cord connector will be subjected to pulling, jerking, and who knows what else that would be handled just fine if a properly installed Kellems or other brand support grip is used, rather then transmit all the stress to the connector.

 

[PCustoms]

If you want to be a hack nobody here can or will stop you, but a cord suspended off a Romex connector is not a good thing,

Huh?

What Romex connector are you talking about?

 

[Norcal]

Huh?

What Romex connector are you talking about?

I screwed up, it's still a **** install rely on support of a cord solely on the connector & box cover.

 

[PCustoms]

I screwed up, it's still a **** install rely on support of a cord solely on the connector & box cover.

Thanks for clarifying.

Guess the weight of a shop light cord hanging must be more substantial then I thought.

 

[alfredeneuman]

but a cord suspended off a Romex connector is not a good thing

Some 2-screw metal Romex connectors are listed not only for cord, but for strain reliefs too.

 

[Norcal]

Thanks for clarifying.

Guess the weight of a shop light cord hanging must be more substantial then I thought.

I am not writing about crappy shop lights, there is a difference between a short cord on a lighting fixture and a pendant that will be jerked, pulled on.

 

[PCustoms]

I am not writing about crappy shop lights, there is a difference between a short cord on a lighting fixture and a pendant that will be jerked, pulled on.

You're just a ray of sunshine this afternoon.....

Where did anyone say anything about a pendant?

 

[billconner]

I screwed up, it's still a **** install rely on support of a cord solely on the connector & box cover.

Who said cover?

And no one said fixture on cord.

 

[PCustoms]

@billconner

While personally I hate dangling light cords on the ceiling and would rather run additional outlets, I don't see anything wrong with what you posted. I've seen plenty of light gauge SJO drops done this way and never an issue.

Heavier drops (10AWG+, 30' lengths) we used to hang with kelums at the box (disconnect on buss bar) and intermediate supports clamped to beams.

 

[alfredeneuman]

Heavier drops (10AWG+, 30' lengths) we used to hang with kelums at the box (disconnect on buss bar) and intermediate supports clamped to beams.

That's just for buss bars, not for use with boxes. (That's why they're call buss drop grips)
A box needs to located directly above whatever equipment it services.

 

[billconner]

So I asked a building official, and response was he has a group - daisy chained - across his shop.

Something like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B713CMW3/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[billconner]

I keep looking at other options. A keyless porcelain - or today's plastic version - and LED lamp is triple the cost. Makes no sense.