pilot hole for ledger screws?

[PoorOwner]

Attaching a 2x4 rack overhead, to studs under drywall.

I got these

http://www.homedepot.com/p/FastenMa...thead-Fastener-12-Pack-FMHLGM412-12/202268269

It says no pilot hole is required but I would like to drill one. I usually drill the pilot hole with light pressure to make sure the path is clear, vs just using a massive drill or impact driver you cannot feel if it is going into something not supposed to.

The shank is 0.2" what would be an ideal pilot hole for it?

 

[The Cobbler]

try a 1/8" . you don't want to make it too large & take away the material for the threads to grip

 

[PoorOwner]

that's what I was thinking, I had drilled too big before for long deck screws and took away the strength. I just tried a piece of wood and thinking maybe 7/64 works better and not as loose as 1/8.
I was testing on a small scrap 2x4 and even with the pilot hole drilled it starts to split to wood near the edge. But it doesn't require really big torque to install with the pilot.

 

[Lazurus]

I only drill a pilot if there is a danger of splitting the board.

 

[bczygan]

NO!!!

 

[PelicanPines]

Yea... no... don't...

FWIW... you can buy 50 of those screws for 32 bucks on amazon... just saying...

 

[manwithtools]

Agreed, it says "no pilot hole is required" for a reason. It's simply not required, and doing otherwise will alter it's specification and potentially it's performance.

 

[SARG]

The shank diameter is .189 & the major thread diameter is .260 ..... so using a .125 pilot should be fine.

 

[PoorOwner]

Here is my project, I was going to use these bolts on 2 foot support sections of 2x4 underneath this frame (not all joists installed yet, it will be 24" O.C.). Then use a tie plate or pocket screws to tie the frame to the support together.

But now I am thinking just directly bolt the frame to the wall. What do you think? No difference? It is fully supported about 4 foot from the wall also.


I know you guys are going to tell me it needs to be 2x12, etc. It is just for light storage.

 

[Zeke]

Agreed, it says "no pilot hole is required" for a reason. It's simply not required, and doing otherwise will alter it's specification and potentially it's performance.

I have to chime in on that. I'm a carpenter and have driven enough screws and driven enough nails of all descriptions to reach the Moon if lined up end to end.

"No pilot hole required" is only a convenience and a sales pitch. You say it will alter "it's (sic) specification and potentially it's (sic) performance."

In what kind of wood? In what condition of wood, old and dry or new and green? Or new and kiln dried?

These screws are simply a general application screw, They are not Simpson structural screws. If one puts them into a hardwood, they better make a pilot hole just under the shank size and use a lubricant to drive. If going into green fir or the like, drive the hell out of them w/o a pilot hole and let the moisture present lube the process.

Blanket generalizations are just that.

 

[manwithtools]

Zeke,
I've driven enough to get me beyond the stratosphere, but no where near the moon like you . These are very much structural screws. Actually much more so than Simpson, but that's another discussion.

Take a quick read here:

http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/pdfImages/8c/8ce73dbc-8089-430b-ba41-c385f5b6c278.pdf

I love these compared to lags on ledgers. The best product they have IMHO is their ThruLOK's. what a dream for deck building. Read up my friend., it's not what you think. When they say no pilot hole, that's what they mean. Drilling a piolt hole in anything but 75 year old white oak is just not required.

 

[Zeke]

@manwithtools I read the whole .pdf and I could only find this with reference to what they call lead holes:

Lead holes are not required at the minimum end and edges distances listed in Table 5.

I don't see anywhere that a lead or pilot hole will compromise the holding strength of the HeadLOK screw. But that doesn't mean that it won't, so I see your point. I do see references to specific gravity (density) of the wood members and I can agree with the idea that plying around with pilot holes that are not well thought out is not a good idea as the crush factor (what I'm calling it as a layman) is definitely part of the hold strength equation.

 

[n20junkie]

A screw with a proper pilot hole is stronger than one without.

 

[ford33]

The design specification PDF document states that "lead" holes are not required. Link below.

The unthreaded shank diameter is 0.191". It is suitable for treated lumber but not for a salt water environment. So if you are near the beach in CA then you may want to consider a different material for your fasteners.

There is another requirement for this fastener that I am not sure how to interpret.

The engineering specification in table 4 for this Headlok fastener of 4-1/2" length states the "minimum" thread penetration into the main member is no less than 3 inches. "Minimum" side member thickness is 1-1/2 inches for a total of 4-1/2 inches. The word minimum side member thickness doesn't make sense to me. I would think it is a maximum thickness.

If you are attaching a 2x4 through 1/2" drywall into a stud you have exceeded the minimum side member allowance. It appears this fastener is designed for 1-1/2" thick wood maximum.

http://www.fastenmaster.com/Files/TechnicalCodeFiles/20/DocumentFile/FMGYHLGM20090901.pdf

 

[PoorOwner]

The design specification PDF document states that "lead" holes are not required. Link below.

The unthreaded shank diameter is 0.191". It is suitable for treated lumber but not for a salt water environment. So if you are near the beach in CA then you may want to consider a different material for your fasteners.

There is another requirement for this fastener that I am not sure how to interpret.

The engineering specification in table 4 for this Headlok fastener of 4-1/2" length states the "minimum" thread penetration into the main member is no less than 3 inches. "Minimum" side member thickness is 1-1/2 inches for a total of 4-1/2 inches. The word minimum side member thickness doesn't make sense to me. I would think it is a maximum thickness.

If you are attaching a 2x4 through 1/2" drywall into a stud you have exceeded the minimum side member allowance. It appears this fastener is designed for 1-1/2" thick wood maximum.

http://www.fastenmaster.com/Files/TechnicalCodeFiles/20/DocumentFile/FMGYHLGM20090901.pdf

Thanks for pointing that out. I understand that I am will be going through drywall with only 2.5" in the stud behind it. But it's still a pretty stout screw.

 

[rburke65]

It says right on the box ...." Eliminates the need to pre drill". Just saying.

 

[jd_1138]

I think a properly sized pilot hole will strengthen the joint, besides preventing cracks/splits.

But for that application, it probably doesn't matter one way or the other.

 

[Viper98912]

I personally prefer pilot holes on everything I can, even if they're undersized pilots.