Pin Punches - what's worth it?

[Pinne]

I've never had nice punches, just bought individuals here and there when needed. I need a few and figure I may as well get a set. The cost difference from junk to top end seems quite small. PB Swiss and Starrett both have sets that fit the bill in the $60-80 range. Any thoughts or comparison between the two in actual use or longevity?

PB Swiss comes in metric and a lifetime guarantee (though, no experience with their warranty). I'd prefer Metric but...Starrett is US made and has nicely knurled handles.

Then there is Snap On at $155...my dealer would be happy to sell me these but they're the most basic of the bunch for double the money. Any reason to go for these?

 

[RoninB4]

Had a set of Starrett, the small ones can break with too much force. They're the standard in machine shops. I don't buy them any more, I make them when needed. Mayhew also used to be good, don't know about now.

 

[NoahG]

I just buy Wilde cause I can get them at Menards.

 

[BlakeTheCarGuy]

I’ve always had good luck with Mayhew punches before. They are generally affordable. I haven’t tried the brands you listed though.

 

[Dave455]

Definitely get yourself some decent ones.

Years back, I economised on these, but I came to realise that tools you strike are among the most critical for quality.

As to which make, it depends what you are doing.

Being the other side of the pond compared to most here, I tend to use a lot of “mid price” punches from British makers. These are “engineers / machinists” tools rather than mechanics, as are the Starrett.

They need a bit of “fettling” before you use them on anything sensitive, polishing the tips and rounding the corners at a minimum, but that is sort of expected, and the price paid is half what you are considering. They’re good and strong though.


PB Swiss are superb in every respect. What you’re paying for, aside from the steel quality, hardening and finishing, is that they come with the tips polished and corners rounded as standard, so you are ready to go. If you don’t need these features, they may not be for you.

Warranty is not an issue in my experience. I have never encountered a faulty PB punch. If I do, I‘m sure they will replace it.

That’s not to say they are unbreakable / unbendable, of course they are, but why would my misuse be covered by a warranty?


You said you wanted “a set”. To avoid misuse, you will need a set that includes both taper punches for starting a pin, and parallel punches for knocking it out. Trying to start a pin with a parallel punch is a certain way to bend it.


Snap On are, I believe, basically Mayhew Pro punches. Couple of reasons to buy them. One is that they are mechanics punches rather than engineers, so are more suited to general garage type work. They’re other is the warranty. Snap On will often exchange tools that have been damaged.

Personally, for mechanics punches I prefer Facom. They are very strong, and I’ve a set I’ve been bashing for over two decades, that show little evidence of this.

As regards warranty, I don’t really wish to pay for others abuse, so I generally don’t buy Snap On.

I do have a set of Snap On that I acquired on a deal though, and I have to admit they are very nice.

 

[Steve_P]

Starrett are awesome if you need inch size. For metric I have PB Swiss.

 

[Pinne]

Definitely get yourself some decent ones.

Years back, I economised on these, but I came to realise that tools you strike are among the most critical for quality.

You said you wanted “a set”. To avoid misuse, you will need a set that includes both taper punches for starting a pin, and parallel punches for knocking it out. Trying to start a pin with a parallel punch is a certain way to bend it.

Snap On are, I believe, basically Mayhew Pro punches. Couple of reasons to buy them. One is that they are mechanics punches rather than engineers, so are more suited to general garage type work. They’re other is the warranty. Snap On will often exchange tools that have been damaged.

Personally, for mechanics punches I prefer Facom. They are very strong, and I’ve a set I’ve been bashing for over two decades, that show little evidence of this.

As regards warranty, I don’t really wish to pay for others abuse, so I generally don’t buy Snap On.

I do have a set of Snap On that I acquired on a deal though, and I have to admit they are very nice.

Appreciate all the advice - I think the PB Swiss are likely to be the way to go for me as they seem to sit somewhere between a machinist's tool and a mechanic's tool. That's really what I need. I'll check out the Facom as well, hadn't looked at them.

Noted on parallel and taper - I'll pick up a corresponding taper set to whatever I go with.

I've read the same about Snap On being rebranded Mayhew, but I've also read they make their own. Hard to know with certain Snap On items - though I'd pick them up if they were half price.

 

[KnurledNut]

I picked these up when they were $23 from Amazon Japan via Amazon.com.
Looks like the current best deal is $38.
https://www.amazon.com/TONE-Punch-PP800-Black-8-Piece/dp/B00OJYSPA0/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I would also highly consider getting some short length punches with stubby tips. They will handle stubborn jobs better than standard pin punches and get in less accessible spots.

 

[sk farmer]

i wont say they are wilde or mayhew usa quality but walmart has set of pin punches for less than 10 bucks. they are surprisingly good for the price. made in taiwan if i recall and a have tapered striking end like a mayhew pro or snap-on. not saying they are that good, just describing the design.

 

[charbar]

No issues beating on my Mayhews that I've had for years. Don't get used as much these days but back when I was doing a lot more ag/equipment work they got a workout. They are an inch set in a roll up pouch. Been too many years to remember what they cost

 

[gatewaysysop]

You said you wanted “a set”. To avoid misuse, you will need a set that includes both taper punches for starting a pin, and parallel punches for knocking it out. Trying to start a pin with a parallel punch is a certain way to bend it.

This!

Many years ago before I learned better, I mucked up several very nice pin punches because I used them when a taper/drift style was called for. The other type to have in your arsenal, if you ever come across roll pins, are proper roll pin punches.

 

[Chris_Hamilton]

Mayhew makes good ones. And they are USA made.

 

[dscheidt]

Don't forget that there are different punches for different pins. if you deal with roll pins, you'll want a set of pilot pin punches, too.

 

[Pinne]

I picked these up when they were $23 from Amazon Japan via Amazon.com.
Looks like the current best deal is $38.
https://www.amazon.com/TONE-Punch-PP800-Black-8-Piece/dp/B00OJYSPA0/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I would also highly consider getting some short length punches with stubby tips. They will handle stubborn jobs better than standard pin punches and get in less accessible spots.

The Tone punches look quite nice for the money, I like the grip / handle on them as well. I've used / handled the Starrett and PB Swiss options and both are substantial - would you say the Tone are comparable?

Thanks for the suggestion - I am likely to start with a set of the shorter punches from PB Swiss and bookmark the Tones if they happen to go back on sale.

Don't forget that there are different punches for different pins. if you deal with roll pins, you'll want a set of pilot pin punches, too.

Pilot Punches / Roll Pin punches are the same thing, correct? I don't encounter roll pins anywhere currently, but definitely a future consideration if I need them.

 

[AEAdam]

Because the GJ gods demand it, I have to ask what you need these for? If you are rebuilding old US machinery, you MUST have inch sized pin punches. The tapers are handy but not 100% essential ime. I bought old Starrett pin punches on eBay for like $20 and they have served me well. I also bought brass punches that I would call drifts more than pin punches on amazon for like $20. I've used my brass drifts for automotive, but haven't yet had to use a pin punch.

For rifles, like the AR lower receiver, you really want roll pin punches as @dscheidt mentioned. They are not metric, btw.

I think this isn't something I encounter enough to simply buy tools to have when I need them. I would buy what you need for a specific project. If you are buying an old Bridgeport milling machine or south bend lathe, sure go buy pin punches and just get Mayhew or Starrett.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I've never had nice punches, just bought individuals here and there when needed. I need a few and figure I may as well get a set. The cost difference from junk to top end seems quite small. PB Swiss and Starrett both have sets that fit the bill in the $60-80 range. Any thoughts or comparison between the two in actual use or longevity?

PB Swiss comes in metric and a lifetime guarantee (though, no experience with their warranty). I'd prefer Metric but...Starrett is US made and has nicely knurled handles.

Then there is Snap On at $155...my dealer would be happy to sell me these but they're the most basic of the bunch for double the money. Any reason to go for these?

When you bend over the smallest punches a dozen times, snap on ends up cheaper. Now if you're not an animal like I am, that's less of an issue. Snap on will replace due to wear, bending, etc - I don't think you'll find anyone else doing that besides too trucks.

If you're not dealing with rusty stuff you can probably buy a lot of acceptable things. I have an astro set at home for basic use.

 

[Dave455]

Appreciate all the advice - I think the PB Swiss are likely to be the way to go for me as they seem to sit somewhere between a machinist's tool and a mechanic's tool. That's really what I need. I'll check out the Facom as well, hadn't looked at them.

Noted on parallel and taper - I'll pick up a corresponding taper set to whatever I go with.

I've read the same about Snap On being rebranded Mayhew, but I've also read they make their own. Hard to know with certain Snap On items - though I'd pick them up if they were half price.

The PB Swiss are very nice, I doubt that you will regret getting them.

Facom make a huge selection. Both one piece and two piece, as well as a lot of specials. It’s the two piece that I have found durable.

Bear in mind that both PB and Facom are metric. Fine for many vehicles, but I’m not sure about U.S. made vehicles. Although many use metric fasteners, do they use metric pins?

I have punches in both Imperial and metric, and two grades of each (one set polished / edges broken, one not) and use them all.

Also bear in mind that a part of the attraction of Facom, for me, is price. They may not be so common or such good value in the U.S.

 

[four.cycle]

Wilde pin punch set

Maybe you should try a smaller hammer if you're bending pin punches?

I've yet to bend one.

In over 50 years.

"Roll pin" punches have a little ****** at the end so they don't damage the roll pin:

 

[Hakeem]

Don’t sleep on the Harbor Freight Icon set. USA made from the Mayhew 150 line, it’s a nice starter assortment of pin punches and starter punches. Parabolic heads and S2 steel + lifetime warranty for when you bend a pin punch all for $80

 

[Sbusmech]

Like others have already stated, Mayhew makes nice made in the usa sets for very little money especially if found used. Also inexpensive to replace individual ones if lost or broken. Have used them for years with good results when used as intended.

 

[Sbusmech]

Wilde pin punch set

Maybe you should try a smaller hammer if you're bending pin punches?

I've yet to bend one.

In over 50 years.

"Roll pin" punches have a little ****** at the end so they don't damage the roll pin:

I agree but stuff happens especially with the little ones and you're in a hurry.

 

[lardy1]

I messed up a few pin punches before I learned what they are and aren't designed to do. I used them as a general punch and they don't last long taking that kind of a beating. I now use taper punches for the initial break and then switch to the proper sized pin punch to drive it through. I haven't mucked one up since I learned to use them for what they are designed to do.

 

[Davefr]

Starrett, Mayhew or PB Swiss. (The Starrets are things of beauty along with being top notch). Most SAE pin punches stop at .0625 but with PB Swiss you can get down to 1mm (.039") for precision tasks.

Whatever you do, avoid Dasco. They're garbage.

 

[ecotec]

Starrett, Mayhew or PB Swiss. (The Starrets are things of beauty along with being top notch). Most SAE pin punches stop at .0625 but with PB Swiss you can get down to 1mm (.039") for precision tasks.

Whatever you do, avoid Dasco. They're garbage.

I 100% agree on the Dasco ones. I started with them in the early 90’s. I wrecked most of them.

The only ones that I paid retail for are the Wlide ones from Menards and some Starrett from that time period that they were not made in the USA.

The balance of my punches and drifts are made in USA from garage/estate sales for $.25-$1 apiece.

If you need them now, and have a Menards nearby, I would suggest the Wilde. If you are not in any kind of hurry, I would suggest garage sales/estate sales.

 

[zmotorsports]

Proto or MAC for me.

When I started my career back in 1988 I tried multiple. The Cornwell would bend into a pretzel before breaking, the Snap-on would snap if you looked at them wrong. I found the MAC were "just right". Since then, MAC or Proto (same thing) is all I've ever used and all I have in my toolbox.

 

[lardy1]

On a side note, if Wilde fits your need you can get them from Tekton and have their excellent warranty and customer service behind them. I don't have their pin punches (only taper punches) so I can't be witness to their quality. I bought an old set of General Tools from long ago when their tools were decent and they work well. I have cheaper USA ones in my road box but they don't come out of the box much.

 

[s3zau]

I 100% agree on the Dasco ones. I started with them in the early 90’s. I wrecked most of them.

The only ones that I paid retail for are the Wlide ones from Menards and some Starrett from that time period that they were not made in the USA.

The balance of my punches and drifts are made in USA from garage/estate sales for $.25-$1 apiece.

If you need them now, and have a Menards nearby, I would suggest the Wilde. If you are not in any kind of hurry, I would suggest garage sales/estate sales.

Someone try to knock out the competition

 

[paulsomlo]

I have a set of Starrett pin punches - quite a difference in quality compared to my Craftsman set.

 

[rlitman]

I have a set of Starrett pin punches - quite a difference in quality compared to my Craftsman set.

How so? I have several Starrett sets, and they're all quite short and roll around, even if I'm a sucker for beautiful knurling. I have a number of older square chromed Craftsman WF punches, and another quantity of newer red hexagonal ones, and none of these hold a candle to my Snap On punches, but I can't say I've been unhappy with any of them (unlike Dasco).

 

[zmotorsports]

The previous picture of my punch drawer was an older picture.

Here are the new Proto roll pin punches that I purchased about a year ago. I had an older set of roll pin punches but they are in my old work toolbox that my son now has. I have not needed actual roll pin punches in my home shop much, at least not where a regular pin punch wouldn't work, but I recently purchased a set of Proto roll pin punches to have on hand.

The older MAC and Proto punches are a bronze color and have been for the past several decades now. Recently both MAC and Proto switched to a black oxide color, but the punches appear to be identical in all other characteristics. I recently had to replace a MAC punch due to a breakage and it was replaced with a black oxide punch (lower right set), so it doesn't match the others in the set.



Relatively new Proto roll pin punches.


Compared to the older bronze-colored punches.

 

[KnurledNut]

The previous picture of my punch drawer was an older picture.

Here are the new Proto pin punches that I purchased about a year ago. I had an older set of pin punches but they are in my old work toolbox that my son now has. I have not needed pin punches in my home shop much, at least not where a regular punch wouldn't work, but I recently purchased a set of Proto pin punches to have on hand.

The older MAC and Proto punches are a bronze color and have been for the past several decades now. Recently both MAC and Proto switched to a black oxide color, but the punches appear to be identical in all other characteristics. I recently had to replace a MAC punch due to a breakage and it was replaced with a black oxide punch (lower right set), so it doesn't match the others in the set.



Relatively new Proto pin punches.


Compared to the older bronze-colored punches.

Thanks for sharing pics. I have the Proto chisel set and some misc punches. Great steel. Used heavily in the industrial field. Old Williams and S-K were reputable too.

I always had a hankering for this pin punch set, but never owned them:

 

[KnurledNut]

I 100% agree on the Dasco ones. I started with them in the early 90’s. I wrecked most of them.

The only ones that I paid retail for are the Wlide ones from Menards and some Starrett from that time period that they were not made in the USA.

The balance of my punches and drifts are made in USA from garage/estate sales for $.25-$1 apiece.

If you need them now, and have a Menards nearby, I would suggest the Wilde. If you are not in any kind of hurry, I would suggest garage sales/estate sales.

As always, nice selection of quality tooling!

 

[GCS]

Your new Proto black oxide punches are roll pin punches
The older bronze Proto punches are pin punches

Maybe color designates type of punch, or all new Proto punches black

 

[zmotorsports]

Your new Proto black oxide punches are roll pin punches
The older bronze Proto punches are pin punches

Maybe color designates type of punch, or all new Proto punches black

Agreed. The roll pin punches have the "nub" on the end to center in the roll pin. Should have been more clear. Pin punches will usually work, but in the industrial world where roll pins are so much more prevalent than automotive, they definitely have their place. It's nice to have all options though.

The color isn't the determining factor, my older set of Proto roll pin punches were the same bronze color as my MAC punches and the new replacement MAC punch was black oxide.

 

[Hakeem]

As always, nice selection of quality tooling!

Seriously. If you got most of those at yard sales, man …. YOU ****!

 

[paulsomlo]

How so? I have several Starrett sets, and they're all quite short and roll around, even if I'm a sucker for beautiful knurling. I have a number of older square chromed Craftsman WF punches, and another quantity of newer red hexagonal ones, and none of these hold a candle to my Snap On punches, but I can't say I've been unhappy with any of them (unlike Dasco).

Yes, shorter and they will roll around, but they make my Craftsman seem primitive.

 

[cretedog]

Have sets and singles from several of the good suppliers- but got tired of the small diameter handles for working on heavy equipment etc. Started making my own. When you're laying in the mud or snow under some big chunk of iron, hands covered with grease, hydraulic fluid or such, it's sure nice to have something of a length and diameter to hang onto for that big hammer. Coarse knurling finishes them off nicely. Hardened S7 and O-1 tool steel.

 

[KnurledNut]

@cretedog
In the words of Project Farm, “very impressive!”

 

[larrygerald]

Are you saying to use a starter punch on roll pins?

 

[Wamsutta]

I always buy Mayhew punches. They work good for me.