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Pine Ceiling

ky-mike

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Jan 24, 2005
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2,119
Location
Somewhere near Louisville, Ky
Has anyone installed a tongue and Groove ceiling in their garage? That is the look I would like to have. I have contacted a couple of national vendors. One sells random length boards (1' to 8') and the other sells either 14' or 16' boards. The random length boards come with tongues on 2 sides and grooves on 2 sides. The longer boards are flat on the ends.

I am leaning towards the random length boards. Will run them long-ways (40' run). My concern is that my trusses are spaced at 2'. The 1' boards will obviously not span the trusses. The vendor says that this is not an issue as the surrounding boards will hold them in place.

Just looking for some assurance here before I place an order.

Garage is 30'x40' with 12' walls and 5/12 trusses. so center height will be about 16'. I do have scaffolding to install, but may look at renting a lift to help out.

I do need to get pictures as well as my build thread up on the forum.

Thanks in advance for thoughts / comments.
 
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The Cobbler

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Oct 24, 2013
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Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada
look at my build thread ( linked in my sig line) I have installed pine T&G . 2' span is fine , infact you can seam inbetween , you don't need to nail at the seam per sai. stagger your joints so they are random and you'll be good

if you want to nail joints between trusses,just use some backing cleats at the seam
 
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kd3pc

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Aug 10, 2013
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Northern Neck
labor intensive, but looks awesome. Motivates to keep the shop clean. I would make sure to seal it, and you might ask your insurance company about it...both from a liability and to make sure the replacement, if needed, is accounted for.

Best of luck
 
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ky-mike

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Jan 24, 2005
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Somewhere near Louisville, Ky
I am retiring in May, so I will have plenty of time to work on this over the summer.

The wood I am looking at is prefinished and beveled on all edges, so should have no real seams to hide as long as I stagger the board lengths. I don't want to have to run any nailers between joists as I have enough work to do getting the ceiling boards in place. That's why I was asking if anyone else had used random length wood for their wood ceiling. I can always run a small bead of glue on the back side of the tongues to help keep the small boards in place and from sagging.
 

myredracer

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Nov 1, 2015
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557
Location
Langley, BC
I installed a bunch of pine T&G under two porches on our house. Bought 1x6 and it looked great at the lumber yard. It wasn't long after putting it up that much of it cupped after it dried out over the summer. Most would never notice but it does bug me. I would suggest 1x4 and not 1x6 (if considering it) unless you are lucky to find some tight grain stuff. I primed ours with lacquer based primer and you can't see any knots. Two foot spans are def. not an issue. Do end cuts at 45 degrees. Nail it on the tongue edge side only (never glue) so that the nail heads are hidden with the adjacent piece. T&G should be allowed to move across it's width due to summer-winter humidity change. An air nailer works well as the wood is light.
 
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Kaizen

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Jan 9, 2015
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New England
I would not use anything more then a dab of glue. Personally I would get the long lengths. Very easy to not stay straight in short pieces. If it's finished I would guess it's been kiln dried so don't think you will have cupping. It will swell some though on a big area like that. Let it aclimate in the garage as long as you can


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Ray-CA

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Jan 6, 2007
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San Diego CA
We just finished a ship-lap ceiling in our laundry room. The room was 3-inches short of 16-ft and we used 16-ft material. Nailed through each board and kept the nails hidden whenever possible. It was primed with Kilz and once installed we put two coats of gloss white paint on it.

Ray
 
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MushCreek

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Jan 14, 2015
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Upstate South Carolina
Have you checked for local sources? I got my T&G white pine much cheaper locally than I could have ordered it for, and got to choose the lengths I wanted. 8' pieces fit my porch best with minimum waste. I put a very light stain on mine to bring out the knots- Put it on before installing. In humid SC, my porch ceiling hasn't warped or moved at all in two years.
 

Northislander

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Dec 7, 2016
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479
Location
Vancouver Island
Installed a pine t&g ceiling used 16' local BC wood. I got tired of fighting the compressor hose up three sections of scaffolding upside down so i bought an 18 volt dewalt finish nailer worked great.
 

B964

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Joined
Aug 4, 2011
Messages
289
I did pine T&G ceilings in my house and plan to do garage also. 16 foot boards worked fine. Using short pieces it will start to get away from you. Slight variations in width will add up. With the longer boards just check and compensate every few.
A friend of mine made me a tool to help get the tongue and grove tight. Looked like a mini vise that screwed to the joist and than reverse vised open to push the joint tight on the stubborn ones.
 
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ky-mike

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Jan 24, 2005
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Somewhere near Louisville, Ky
I have installed T&G flooring. I think that the concept is the same other than I am nailing overhead instead of moving around on my knees.

I do like the idea of a cordless nail gun. Doing things myself and saving the labor costs allows me to justify buying tools that I otherwise might not buy.
 

lostmind

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Sep 1, 2011
Messages
788
Location
Wellington,Ohio
I did a 14 x 18 ceiling , physically tiring overhead work. A nailer would help , plus scaffold

looks nice when finished. I used staggered pieces
Barn siding gives a similar look , goes up faster, but heavier
 
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