Pine Siding Preservative

[MAINEGUY]

As I near the siding stage of my 32x40 garage build, I am looking for opinions on a preservative/stain for the 1x10 pine shiplap siding I will be using.

We live in a pine log home which was built in 2008 that was stained with a Sikkens Cetol product that I can honestly say I don't love the way it has held up. That said, I don't think that is the product I want to use. I would however like to continue with a cedar tinted wood preservative and would prefer one that can be applied with a garden sprayer. Ultimately I am looking for a product that would be applied to my new garage and eventually my 12x16 garden shed and my 32x24 log home, both of which will require some cleaning and pressure washing prior to re staining. I'd prefer to keep all three buildings preserved with the same product.

I have come across threads referencing a Penofin Red Label product as well as a Flood CWF product. What I have not seen is any follow ups on the longevity of these products and real world intervals between re-application. All of these products including the Sikkens seem to reference 2-3 years before re-applications. Is this the best I'm going to find in this type of application?

I really don't want a solid stain as I prefer the look I had when my home just finished. I have attached a picture of my home when it was just completed.

Any thoughts on products would be greatly appreciated.

 

[jetnow1]

Pine is vulnerable to water and insects, to expect a transparent product to last much longer than 2-3 years is unrealistic. The best protection I have found is oil based primer followed by oil based paint but that is not the look you want, be prepared to reapply every few years and understand it is the nature of the beast.

 

[MarlynOC]

Look to Ready Seal or Armstrong Clark.

 

[Orionrising]

There is pine clapboard available in southern me cheap a few years ago at least or cedar is nice with no finish.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk

 

[ard]

OP- you do not like the Sikkens Cetol?? How many times have you reapplied it since 2008??


I would most definitely search for articles on line that compare these finishes head to head- sikkens has traditionally been a top performer.

(While I love the look of a stained deck, the maintenance is a nightmare- a whole house, shop, barn, etc?!??! No way. Just me personally!)

 

[MAINEGUY]

OP- you do not like the Sikkens Cetol?? How many times have you reapplied it since 2008??


I would most definitely search for articles on line that compare these finishes head to head- sikkens has traditionally been a top performer.

(While I love the look of a stained deck, the maintenance is a nightmare- a whole house, shop, barn, etc?!??! No way. Just me personally!)

I have to throw my head on the chopping block here and admit a complete naivety to the frequency of re-application required back in 2008. I saw the look I wanted and said "That's what I want".

To answer your question honestly I have only re-applied on some trim areas but that is it. Having been educated since building the house, I probably would NOT have done anything differently with regard to my choice. I just know now that this is the look I want and have to develop a maintenance plan accordingly. I'm thinking I will be re-applying one side of the garage and house each year in order to keep the scale of the maintenance a little lower. The shed is small and can be done every few years in it's entirety.

My post was really to get some more recent opinions of product longevity.

 

[MarlynOC]

If you do not treat Sikkens at least every 18 months it will turn sour on you.

 

[seanc_mt]

I use penofin Red on all my wood products and love it.

 

[MAINEGUY]

Thank you for the replies so far. Just to update, I stopped at a log home on my way home from work that I drive by 5 days a week, sometimes twice a day. I have always admired the finish and how well it has weathered. I finally stopped and asked what the finish was...............it's a Sikkens product. The owner said it was done in two coats and after a year a third coat of another material was to be applied but the never did. After looking at it up close it looks better than I thought.

I know for certain that the finish on my house was a single coat system and NEVER had the satin/semi gloss sheen this house has had for the last three years I've been driving by it.

There is NO DOUBT I am guilty of improper re-application but I think maybe there is a better product within the Sikkens family I should be considering.

Have to do some research but is anyone familiar with this 3 coat system?

 

[Boilerhouse]

I used a coat Sikkins Cetol 1 natural followed by 2 coats of Cetol 23 natural on a cedar board and batten cottage I own sometime around 1988. I rented it out from 1998 to 2008 and I believe my tenant, who was a painter by profession, top coated it with a coat of Cetol 23 natural at some point. Otherwise, it was never been re-done and it still looks reasonably good but another top coat wouldn't hurt. Unfortunately, I have no recent photos to show.

 

[TTTTTT]

I used a coat Sikkins Cetol 1 natural followed by 2 coats of Cetol 23 natural on a cedar board and batten cottage I own sometime around 1988. I rented it out from 1998 to 2008 and I believe my tenant, who was a painter by profession, top coated it with a coat of Cetol 23 natural at some point. Otherwise, it was never been re-done and it still looks reasonably good but another top coat wouldn't hurt. Unfortunately, I have no recent photos to show.

I have done similar using Sikkens on my 20 year old cedar sided cottage/home. still looks great. I recoat on the south and west (the most UV wear)sides every 3-5 years and on the north and east ......I can't remember. I did though which I think really helps, before installing coated both sides including back side.After installing did the followup coats. I realize few if any do this but it was suggested and think it made a big difference. I realize this is not an option for you. Another big part is how smooth the logs are. If they have 'mill glaze' any penetrating stain/finish won't go on as predicted. At the time Sikkens instructions warned about it. The product process has changed a little though.

Good luck

 

[Skiff Builder]

Maineguy. In the 80's I built over 1300 sheds,barns, pool cabanas etc, all with rough sawn pine siding. We used a home brew stain applied w garden sprayer. Recipe was 5 gallons diesel fuel mixed with 4-12 oz of coal tar. Sprayed on like a dream. Penetrated greatly. Would gradually fade over the years letting you know when to reapply. I still have one can left - after 30 years looks like new.
Oh, btw got the recipe from an old Maine farmer!

 

[MAINEGUY]

I'm finding that the single coat SRD was probably not the best system to begin with back in 2008 but hindsight is 20/20. Lack of re-application certainly didn't help.

I have been in contact with a Log Home supplier and it sounds like I may be stuck with the single coat system due to compatibility issues within the Sikkens family. A thorough pressure wash/clean and re-application of the SRD may be my only COST EFFECTIVE option on the house and shed. I will probably stick with the Sikkens family for the garage but not the SRD system.

I'll report back with my findings.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

How did you decide to hang the siding?

 

[MAINEGUY]

How did you decide to hang the siding?

Actually it was just delivered last week and I still have to get my roofing on before I start to hang the siding. I'm planning on the same system you used just haven't looked into that corrugated material yet. You said Lowes?

But since your here, can you help me understand a little better how you routed that pest screen material you used?

 

[Angelfire]

I too have a log cabin but located in the mountains of NM so a ton of UV and snow in the winter. It was originally done with Penofin....I won't ever use that again. As a finish it works pretty well but with time it goes black with mildew. Stripping it is a nightmare I've heard. I guess I'll find out as I am hoping to strip and recoat this year. I'm torn between using Armstrong Clark or possibly going with a permachink product (many homes in the area are using this with pretty good results) I use the AC on my deck and have been happy with it. But in my climate, horizontal surfaces are going to need to be done every year or two and the verticals every 3-5....just the way it is. As a primer for what products, procedures etc.....check out the forums here:

www.thegrimescene.com

Professional deck/home finishers/restorer's/etc discuss what works best for them on what woods, etc....
Cheers.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Corrugated plastic 4x8 sheets can be found at Home Depot in the plexiglass section. I cut the 4x8 sheets into 2x3 inch pieces. I used about 1 1/4 sheets for the 1800 sqft of siding.

Big screen I found in the screen section at lowes. I think it was 8 inches wide by 50 feet long. I used the compound miter saw to cut it in half into two 4 inch by 50 foot long pieces. I then snapped a line for the bottom of the first nailing strip. I then stapled the screen overlapping the line by 1 inch or so. I then went and nailed up my nailing strip. After that I rolled the screen over the bottom of the nailing strip and stapled it to the face.

Don't forget to not make my mistake with the nailing strips! Place the first nailing strip at the bottom of the sheathing. Then taking into account how far down below the bottom of the sheathing that you are going to hang the siding set he rest of your nailers up the wall 2 foot o/c. Don't set the 2 foot o/c off the bottom hanger because you will be 3 or 4 inches( whatever you decide for a drop below the sheathing) short on your 2 foot o/c.

 

[MAINEGUY]

Don't forget to not make my mistake with the nailing strips! Place the first nailing strip at the bottom of the sheathing. Then taking into account how far down below the bottom of the sheathing that you are going to hang the siding set he rest of your nailers up the wall 2 foot o/c. Don't set the 2 foot o/c off the bottom hanger because you will be 3 or 4 inches( whatever you decide for a drop below the sheathing) short on your 2 foot o/c.

I haven't forgotten those words of wisdom.

I'm also working on a nailing jig that will allow me to set a small gap between the exposed side of the ship lap for expansion. It will also have 1 hole to one side to locate my previous boards last nail and three holes to the other side to locate the nails on the board I am nailing with my siding gun. Picture a sliding square but fixed. Probably not explaining it well at all but it will be similar to your speed square idea. The joys of working at a machine shop with guys who take special pride in "government work" as we call it.

 

[The Wart]

Consider using Tim-bor or a similar borate type treatment to the raw wood prior to installation. It greatly reduces insect damage and also impedes rot. Back priming the siding prior to installation is a given and making sure your rain screen is properly detailed will make the siding, and it's finish, last much longer.

 

[6768rogues]

Stain products penetrate for adhesion more than paints which stick to the surface. Generally stains are better brushed on and not sprayed so they are worked into the wood.