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Pioneer mini split - no power

tmshort

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I’ve got an 18k BTU Pioneer unit that I installed in my shop several years ago, has been flawless. This is the downstairs unit, I have one upstairs as well. The outside units are mounted right next to each other.

Today the downstairs one has no power. Breaker is tripped. Checked outside, the fuses at the disconnect are also blown.
I looked at the wiring to the unit, etc - all seems fine.
I have these on an Emporia energy monitor - no unusual draw or anything before it went offline around 11PM last night.
We did have some high winds and heavy rain.

Anything else I should check before replacing the fuses and trying to put power to it again?
 
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PCustoms

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Pull the fuses and put a meter on it to see if it's shorted?
 
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PCustoms

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We had storms last night but I am not aware of any significant lightning, no other electrical issues and we didn’t lose power.

I’ve gone as far down the troubleshooting grid as I can:


I am unclear on what “units with W wire” refers to - a white wire, or one labeled “W”?

Here is my indoor connection:

IMG_51CEE28B6CD5-1.jpeg

I can't zoom that for some reason...

Normally in HVAC "W" is one of the thermostat wires, which doesn't apply here, unless you have a separate thermostat?

From what I can read, those are some very poorly translated instructions.
 

chinboys

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Two wires for each 110-120V leg to drive the 220-240 V AC squirrel cage fan on the evaporator or wall mount unit.
One wire for the call signal for cooling.
One wire for ground.

Check the small pico fuses on the big circuit board or any of them that you can see for a blown fuse condition.

Your error means you lost "connectivity" signal on terminal 3

Error Code E1 / EL 01 (EL01) Troubleshooting

Indoor/Outdoor Unit Communication Error Diagnosis and Solution​


You might have had a power surge of sorts that would have blown the main fuse on the breaker, the cutoff ones (they are usually slow blow ones), and anything else designed to protect circuitry.

Get a multimeter or borrow one from a friend to check for voltages at the evaporator unit as well as the condenser unit after you have checked out and replaced all line voltage fuses at the cutoff box and those circuit board fuses.
 
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tmshort

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Thanks guys.

I will look closer to see if there are any fuses on the boards.

Per the chart, I checked voltage between 2 and 3, and it is constant +. I do not have a separate T-stat for this, the “W” wire confused me (I am assuming I don’t have one).

The ”English” on those directions is rough…
 
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tmshort

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Update for anyone following.

Called customer service. Short wait, super helpful guy. Confirmed the troubleshooting process, told me a couple other things to check (resistance across the terminals of the compressor plug, check them to ground as well).

I did the suggested stuff, then called back to confirm before ordering a part. Went through the menu, back on hold for a few minutes, hear a couple clicks and the same guy picks up, "Hello, (my name) - I just talked to you a half hour ago". Confirms it is the outside board, puts in a note and sends me over to parts where the guy gets one headed this way.

Overall very happy with the service. Will report back once I get the part and swap it out.
 

pcmeiners

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"We had storms last night but I am not aware of any significant lightning, no other electrical issues and we didn’t lose power."

Have had EMF from lightning 25 miles away, no noise or visible flash, take out electronic devices. Not installing surge/lightning protection on a minisplit is inviting rather expensive problems.
 
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pcmeiners

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"MARS & Intermatic make a couple of units. You install them at the disconnect." :thumbup:

Personally I just used MOVs rated at approx 300v mounted across L1, L2 and ground. Costs about $10 . I parallel (3) MOVs on each leg within the disconnect box. This gives a higher rating than the units MARS or Intermatic make for under $150. Another advantage of
making my own protection is the MOVs are in a metal enclosure. Place the surge protector as close to the outside unit as practical. Best protection devices have more than MOVs, like Transorbs and or gas tubes, but they get pretty expensive.

As in.....
1721074793641.png
 
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tmshort

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Part came in today, took me about an hour to pull everything apart and get it replaced.
Back in business, she’s cooling again.

Overall couldn’t be happier with the service from Pioneer, tech support was very helpful and they shipped out a new part for free.

One other question (perhaps this is better for the electrical forum, maybe I will cross post): Both times I have opened the cover on the outdoor unit there has been water in the loop of the flex conduit. All the fittings are tight, any thoughts on the most likely entry point? I’m wondering if it is the foam gasket on the cover of the unit itself, though all the stuff inside the cover seems dry…


IMG_6522.jpegIMG_6521.jpeg
 

PCustoms

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Part came in today, took me about an hour to pull everything apart and get it replaced.
Back in business, she’s cooling again.

Overall couldn’t be happier with the service from Pioneer, tech support was very helpful and they shipped out a new part for free.

One other question (perhaps this is better for the electrical forum, maybe I will cross post): Both times I have opened the cover on the outdoor unit there has been water in the loop of the flex conduit. All the fittings are tight, any thoughts on the most likely entry point? I’m wondering if it is the foam gasket on the cover of the unit itself, though all the stuff inside the cover seems dry…


IMG_6522.jpegIMG_6521.jpeg
Man, that thing could use some soap and a hose....how's the coil?


What's the 3rd line coming out of your disconnect?
 
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tmshort

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LOL. I wondered if I would get any "dirty" comments. The coils are in great shape, I clean them spring and fall.

I have 2 units out there, I ran all the supply wires in a single conduit and the power to the second unit passes through that disconnect en route to the box for the other unit.
 

fitter30

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Would disconnect the indoor equipment before powering up the condenser just in case there is problem. Tripping the breaker and blowing both fuses something is grounded or shorted. Have you pull the cover off disconnect to inspect?
 
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tmshort

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Location
Central IN
Would disconnect the indoor equipment before powering up the condenser just in case there is problem. Tripping the breaker and blowing both fuses something is grounded or shorted. Have you pull the cover off disconnect to inspect?
I looked everything over carefully before powering up - looked inside the disconnect, checked all the wires / connections etc.
It has been up and running for 2 days now without issue.

I still wonder about the water in the flex conduit but can't figure out how it got in there.
 

fitter30

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I looked everything over carefully before powering up - looked inside the disconnect, checked all the wires / connections etc.
It has been up and running for 2 days now without issue.

I still wonder about the water in the flex conduit but can't figure out how it got
Are there gaskets on the liquid tite fitting to disconnect ?
 
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