Pipe Sanders

[Galvarium]

Is it possible to use a surface conditioning tool with a contour drum on round steel pipes? I work at a botanical garden, and we have hundreds of feet worth of (painted)metal handrails that are in constant need of upkeep.
From what I've been able to find, pipe sanders are an great option, but they're either expensive "professional" grade tools or cheap ones with no name brand and mixed reviews.
So before I make any decisions, I wanted to ask some people who have more experience working on steel projects.

Our handrails are all the same, 3" in diameter, already welded together and painted, im just looking for an efficient way to sand down rust and old paint.

Any input is greatly appreciated!

*side note - paint stripper has been considered, but it can't be used everywhere in the garden. As you can see in the photos, the water levels fluctuate due to the Florida aquifer, so we try not to use anything that could harm the wildlife and aquatic life. *

 

[mike93lx]

I think I would try one of the tubing sander attachments first. Lots of cheap import options online if you want to try it without much outlay.


VEVOR Pipe Tube Polisher Sander 7"/180 mm Max Pipe Diameter,Sander Polisher Grinder 110V 800W,Professional Belt Sander Grinding Machine 6 Speeds Adjustable,for Burnishing Finishing Stainless Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09QRNPR7G?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Galvarium]

I think I would try one of the tubing sander attachments first. Lots of cheap import options online if you want to try it without much outlay.


VEVOR Pipe Tube Polisher Sander 7"/180 mm Max Pipe Diameter,Sander Polisher Grinder 110V 800W,Professional Belt Sander Grinding Machine 6 Speeds Adjustable,for Burnishing Finishing Stainless Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09QRNPR7G?tag=atomicindus08-20

Thanks for your input! That was actually one of the options I was considering.

 

[RMERR]

The tool linked above looks good. If you're trying to get into tight angles as in the welded joints, a Dynabrade Dynafile II has smaller belt widths, 1/4" and 1/2". With the right contact arm you can slack sand right into the joint (that is if you need to)

Amazon.com

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/d...V0hWtBh2AYQv8EAQYByABEgIG9_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[NORTON'S SHOP]

I have a Metabo. Just checked pricing on the web, holy **** they got expensive...like everything else. Got mine before Covid and paid almost half as much.

 

[RTM]

The tool linked above looks good. If you're trying to get into tight angles as in the welded joints, a Dynabrade Dynafile II has smaller belt widths, 1/4" and 1/2". With the right contact arm you can slack sand right into the joint (that is if you need to)

Amazon.com

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/01328798?cid=ppc-google-&mkwid=|dc&pcrid=&rd=k&product_id=01328798&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMItZbyjYC4hAMV0hWtBh2AYQv8EAQYByABEgIG9_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

I was thinking of suggesting the Dynabrade on the slack side, but for 95% of the job, the thing from Mike93LX was the bigger winner for me.

 

[Steve_P]

He is wanting to use this outside, in somewhat remote locations, in basically what is a large park. A Dynabrade air powered tool is going to require a portable gasoline powered compressor. Even 120VAC tools will require long extension cords or a generator.

So, I think the OP needs to specify the desired power source.

 

[RMERR]

He is wanting to use this outside, in somewhat remote locations, in basically what is a large park. A Dynabrade air powered tool is going to require a portable gasoline powered compressor. Even 120VAC tools will require long extension cords or a generator.

So, I think the OP needs to specify the desired power source.

The dynabrade dynafile II I mentioned is electric. As the OP said he was considering the Vevor (also electric) I assume he has the power thing worked out. But I agree, maybe that needs to be clarified.

 

[Monte]

 

[neophyte]

Tools like this are highly specialized, and usually fairly expensive.
Up until maybe 10 or 15 years ago, Flex and Maybe Suhner were were a couple of the only manufacturers.
Nowadays, there are cheaper Asian made copies.
The Hilti version might be made in China, but some if the Hilti tear down videos seem to show good construction on Hilti cordless tools.
You just need the batteries, and the tools still aren’t ultra cheap.
There are also wheels like the yellowish one posted (This one from Flex), where you can wrap a sanding or abrasive fleece belt around the pipe, tape the belt into a loop, and use a burnishing machine to run the belt around the pipe.

 

[neophyte]

It should probably be mentioned that any “easy” pipe sanding system will have crappy dust collection, so contamination is likely to happen one way or another.
As long as the pipe doesn’t get submerged, you might be better off building a portable containment cover, and carefully stripping each section as you go, with the quickest method possible, while keeping mess contained.
If you can get a methylene chloride paint stripper, I would check a bit of pipe, and see how quickly it works to get to bare metal.
If it works quickly, contain the area fully, use the stripper to remove as much paint, as quickly as possible, to get to bare metal, neutralize any chemical remains on the pipe, and bag the waste quickly to prevent contamination.
Once the pipe is clear of paint, wire brush it with a large die grinder, and then paint the pipe with the best metal primer you can get.
Steel dust from wire brushing it technically a contaminant, but likely way less toxic than paint flakes or paint stripper.
There are safer paint strippers, but most take way more time, and to prevent contamination, getting the paint stripper on and off quickly and controllably is much less likely to cause mishaps.

Alternatively, if you have access to reliable electrical supplies in the areas with the painted rails, use a heat gun if that will work, and follow the above containment instructions.
Make a concave steel scraper to match the diameter of the pipe, to quickly strip the paint using the heat gun.

 

[neophyte]

Festool also used yo make a Linear sander, that took formed sanding pads, which had an option for customizable pads.
The sander has since been discontinued, at least in the USA, but there may be some still available from Festool dealers.

 

[dr_clyde]

The efficacy of a tube sander will depend on how far you want to go with the paint removal. You are just scuffing the paint for another coat? Should work fine. Sanding out rust spots or blemishes? Also pretty effective. Removing all the paint down to bare steel? No way Jose.

I own a Metabo tube sander, and while it is a fantastic tool, it wouldn't be my first choice for stripping paint.

I know it doesn't look like it, but there is a LOT of surface area on those handrails. You'll be burning up belts left and right if all you want to do is remove all the paint. The belts aren't cheap, and they're not designed for stripping paint so they'll clog easily.

These tools are designed for blending and finishing stainless steels and polishing.

The other thing to consider, they have ZERO dust extraction or containment, so you'll be just making a very dusty mess of your surrounding area. Fine if you can sweep up, not so fine if it ends up in the water and you can't get rid of it.

Depending on the frequency that maintenance is needed, you might be better off replacing these handrails on a as-needed basis with stainless steel or aluminum that won't need further maintenance. If you need to strip and repaint more than once a year I suspect these will pay for themselves pretty fast. Might take you a few years to do, but it's easier to stomach the cost if you spread it out and show the cost savings over time. I've sold customers on stainless railing systems on the maintenance savings alone.

That said, if all you need to do is scuff the paint, remove any rust or flaking paint and have a good way to catch/contain the dust, a tube sander with a coarse belt should work fine.

 

[rust in the eye]

Even with the tools shown here that's a LOT of pipe to sand. I suspect the abrasives cost will be astronomical.
What about blasting?

 

[dr_clyde]

Even with the tools shown here that's a LOT of pipe to sand. I suspect the abrasives cost will be astronomical.
What about blasting?

Ever blasted handrails before?

Deceptively hard. WAY more surface area than you think, all kinds of weird angles, not to mention the mess and noise. I did it once on a loading dock that needed a new paint job. Never again.

If you can remove the railings and blast off site, maybe.

No shot do you want to sandblast handrailings in a botanical garden.

 

[tarbellb]

Given the environmental concerns sanding and blasting are both likey to be out of the question.

If full replacement w aluminum or SS is out of the question then a calculated paint stripper method is your best bet.

Catching some oozing paint stripper is much easier then containing high speed paint debris and dust.

(plus NOBODY wants to sand that much rail)

 

[yhprum]

Hmm sounds like one of those laser things is your only option. Can I Borrow it when you’re done?

 

[dnschmidt]

Mr. Phelps this mission has been declared IMPOSSIBLE. Your best bet is to get some of the NEW Aircraft Stripper that Barr company has recently introduced. It's suppose to be much better than the non-methylene chloride strippers that don't work at all. The methylene chloride stripprs we all grew up with actually stripped paint. They also gave you cancer but hey nobody lives forever.

Here is a link to the new stuff: http://kleanstripauto.com/products/aircraft-ultra-paint-remover

 

[rust in the eye]

Ever blasted handrails before?

Nope. I've sanded tubing though and think the tube sander would only make it slightly easier and lots more expensive to do.
I see your point about blasting.
Stripper has been suggested which seems to me the best solution but perhaps not an option in this environment.
Perhaps a scraper with a profile conforming to the tube is the answer.
Regardless of method its a crappy, labor intensive job to do, glad its not mine.

 

[neophyte]

Mr. Phelps this mission has been declared IMPOSSIBLE. Your best bet is to get some of the NEW Aircraft Stripper that Barr company has recently introduced. It's suppose to be much better than the non-methylene chloride strippers that don't work at all. The methylene chloride stripprs we all grew up with actually stripped paint. They also gave you cancer but hey nobody lives forever.

Here is a link to the new stuff: http://kleanstripauto.com/products/aircraft-ultra-paint-remover

Methylene chloride is fine, when used with a fresh air supply, and not rubbed on the skin.
If necessary, position two fans on you to make sure the stripper fumes blow away from you.
Methylene chloride is only really dangerous when used in enclosed areas without ventilation, or used over very long periods.