Pipe take off chart

[Thedroid]

Does anybody have take off chart or method that's easy to reference when doing the occasional pipe job. I plan and run around 1000 ft of pipe per year, and would like to know some of the tricks rather than flying seat of the pants. I usually measure face to face and then add on the max thread engagement times 2. Is there a better way. How is it done center to center?

 

[Bobhdus]

I'm a Pipefitter by trade and I used to remember all those things but mostly now I use the book "Pipefitters Handbook" made by industrial press. It's a great book to have. The other book I use a lot of is "Mathematics For Plumbers and Pipefitters", by Thomson Delmar Learning. It covers all the math for the different offsets. Depends on the application and how much variation I have to deal with when measuring pipe. Number one rule is always to "measure twice to cut once...". Anymore, I have to measure more than twice and don't trust fittings made overseas. They vary too much. I probably didn't tell you anything you already didn't know but anyways, I understand your dilemma... Good Luck!

 

[Bobhdus]

I do have charts from my books but need more specifics what you need. I can take pictures if you want.

 

[rbgearz]

I do a lot of pipefitting at work. Would not be without my Pipefitters Handbook.

 

[BD1]

You talkin threaded schedule 40 pipe ? If so measure center to center then subtract the two fittings takeoffs. 1/2'' 90 elbows take off their size, 1/2''. So if it it 10'' face to face take off 1'' and cut piece 9''.
3/4 '' 90's take off 3/4'', 1'' 90's 1'', 1 1/4'' 90's 1 1/4''. 1 1/2 90's 1 1/2'''

2'' 90's take off 1 3/4 '' . For accurate installation make fitting on one end of pipe then measure center to center and takeoff the other fitting, mark, cut , and thread. This way you only have to worry about thread make up on one end.

 

[Bobhdus]

The "Original Poster" has quite a bit of experience, but here's a few more tips to add for anyone that's just getting into the trade. Before being a pipefitter I was a maintenance mechanic and doing a lot of machining as well as running pipe. I was used to working in thousands of an inch.

But with cutting and threading pipe your dealing with fractional dimensions. It's hard to get exact and sometimes repeatability is impossible. Our Ridgid pipe machine although nice with its variable cutter can be 1/8"-1/4" off at any given time. We used to have a Greenlee machine that was spot on as each pipe size was a different die (I miss that machine...). Variations are no big deal. Some guys use Teflon tape, some use pipe dope, still others may use both. Depending on the codes your using, a little extra tape can "adjust" a fit that is a little off. Never thread stainless NPT's together without one or the other. It could ruin the threads and damn near weld itself together...

True story- I used to know a guy (Dave Helstab) that would start the first thread with the pipes inside seam in the 12 o'clock position and run every other fitting based on the direction they would go and where the seam should be. He could measure around machines and cut 100's of feet of pipe in the shop and they would fit pretty darn close when he arrived to install. He would number the pieces in order and direction for install. I understand his system but I could never do it. Most guys do one or two pieces at a time.

 

[Richard D]

I'm a pipe designer but I have worked in the field fitting pipe as well. As far as screw pipe, all I can say is, I hate running that ****. Total pain in the ***.

 

[texasfiremedic]

Even though it says medic for a screen name in was a pipefighter for 12 years. I do agree with Richard. It is a pain in the ***. When setting up the machine to be used make sure that the threads are not to deep or to shallow. The best is 2.5 to 3 turns once the tread starts to hand tight. This will give a you a consistent thread make up. To figure take off without a book thread a piece and give it say 6 inches form a mark on the pipe to the end of the thread. tread a 90 up and measure from the mark to the center of the 90. Coupling not much different just use two pieces one 6 inches long and a mark 6 inches on the longer piece. This can all be done on the threading machine. Pipe wrench and the machines motor to make it quick. You may loose a little pipe in the process but the name of the game. Go take your measurements and then do the takeoffs. Also make sure that after doing a couple of threads the threads are still the 2.5 to three threads to hand tight. Thread 10 pieces and check again. If the threader is worn out the threads will not be consistent and may be more than the 2.5 to 3 treads after one or two threads. If they are and you can't seem to get it adjusted right. Find another threader head or get a new one. I have seen them wore out and not hold the dies at a consistent depth.

Maybe this helps. I don't know. you may already know this.

 

[Bobhdus]

If you thread stainless pipe, use dies that are designed for Stainless. By design, they will work better and last longer.

 

[Bobhdus]

 

[kferguson553]

Screwed pipe is tons of fun if you enjoy a challenge. I'm a fitter by trade welder actually but still do a fair amount of screwed pipe. Generally for less than an inch nps its the pipe size 3/4 takes of 3/4 but that's not exact you NEED to mesure your fittings. Take offs are a bit different from malleable iron, to 2M, 3M, and 6M fittings. So thread a ****** into a fitting then unthread and measure your thread engagement then measure face to center on fitting subtract difference. There are lots of books out there all are very good to have the Franklin book and "tube turn" books make a good pair.

 

[The Cobbler]

Wow, brings me back to my high school days. did tones of mock ups with IP. teacher would give us the dimensions and we'd have to build it using the fitting allowances. He would mark us on accuracy, square, lined up etc etc. When I went to work for a plumber after high school has asked me what I knew, I told him and he said, well forget half of what you learned because you'll never need fitting allowance, fixture units, etc here. He was out of business in less than a year...

 

[pipehack]

Most if not all manufacturers have their own books with all the fitting and take offs. I'm a Chicago Local 130 Plumber and we still run into jobs where screw pipe is required. It's not that much of a pain. Time consuming that's all, but it's hourly wages anyway so who cares how long it takes. The pipefitters/plumbers helper is a great little book. It's a must have IMHO.

 

[strong8951]

Does any body have the take offs for tee ninety's and forty fives