Pipe threading oil

[600SL]

I'm using a Harbor Freight Central Machinery pipe threader. Needles to say it cuts like ****. Hoping to get better results using a better oil. To date I have been using Mobilmet 766 cutting oil. Which is a light colored oil but I'm not sure this is specifically for Black Pipe or is it for threading steel shafts on a lath. I see Rigid offers 3 oils, Dark, Nu Clear or Extreme Performance thread cutting oil. I also noticed that only the Extreme Performance says for Black Pip right on the label. I'm wondering if one of these oils might help the cut of a low quality tool.

 

[The Cobbler]

back in the day many years ago, I think a heavy sulfur oil was used for cutting pipe.
today's pipe and your dies likely have an impact on quality of threads. But I would go with the recommended oil .

 

[600SL]

back in the day many years ago, I think a heavy sulfur oil was used for cutting pipe.
today's pipe and your dies likely have an impact on quality of threads. But I would go with the recommended oil .

Both the Mobilmet 766 and all the Rigid products contain sulfur. Mobilmet is 1.6% by weight. Rigid does not specify the amount.

 

[T444e]

I use Ridgid dark cutting oil, but I'm also using it with Ridgid power threaders.

 

[600SL]

I tried to by the Rigid extreme from HD but the picture showed the Rigid extreme and when it came in It was Rigid Dark, which explains why it was so cheep. So I had them take it back and I bought a small bottle of Oatey dark thread cutting oil just to try it out. It is a huge improvement over the Mobilmet 766. Now I will try the Rigid extreme from someone who has it. The threads are by no means perfect with the Dark but appear usable. Lets see if the Extreme cleans them up any.

 

[600SL]

I use Ridgid dark cutting oil, but I'm also using it with Ridgid power threaders.

The Harbor freight threader is a hand held power threader. Seems to be working well with the Oatey Dark

https://www.harborfreight.com/12-amp-portable-electric-pipe-threader-62203.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=22303585913&campaignid=22303585913&utm_content=171079704210&adsetid=171079704210&product=62203&store=306&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22303585913&gclid=Cj0KCQjw5azABhD1ARIsAA0WFUFh5-3vM5SlDlRfojHulTHlR0iXRrcyxpyn6FQ5m54FIUnOibLWE80aAgqjEALw_wcB

 

[T444e]

I use both a Ridgid 300 and a 114. It appears the Harbor Freight threader is a knockoff of the Ridgid 114, which I believe was made by someone else for Ridgid.

 

[PT Doc]

Ridgid dark

 

[600SL]

I use both a Ridgid 300 and a 114. It appears the Harbor Freight threader is a knockoff of the Ridgid 114, which I believe was made by someone else for Ridgid.

The die head looks just like the rigid R11 manual threader. I have been trying to verify if they would fit.

https://www.zoro.com/ridgid-diehead-cmpl-11r-34-hs-npt-37115/i/G7744259/

 

[T444e]

The die head looks just like the rigid R11 manual threader. I have been trying to verify if they would fit.

https://www.zoro.com/ridgid-diehead-cmpl-11r-34-hs-npt-37115/i/G7744259/

I replaced either the 1/2" or 3/4" dies in the 114 last year but do not remember the part number.

 

[600SL]

2 votes for Rigid Dark so far any one with experience with the extreme performance or Nu Clear. I'm using the Oatey Dark which I assume is like the Rigid Dark. I will give the Extreme a try when it comes in.

 

[T444e]

All the plumbers and fitters I have worked with always asked for the Ridgid dark. I don't recall anyone asking for the light or Nu Clear.

 

[PoorUB]

All we ever used was Dark.

 

[Sumboodie]

For something else going on ither than oil.

Really most any oil will work. Even no oil, just it'll wear the die much quicker.

 

[nadogail]

I have hand threaded and installed thousands feet of 3/4" Rigid Conduit, we used a Rigid Hand threader and the dark High Sulpher oil.

 

[walrus]

Rigid dark is what I always use cutting thread on rigid conduit. I'm using rigid pony and rigid dies. Lots of newer pipe cuts like **** so it might not be a oil or threader issue??

 

[600SL]

For something else going on ither than oil.

Really most any oil will work. Even no oil, just it'll wear the die much quicker.

Hopefully I will have some data with photos in the next couple of days. I have the Rigid Extreme coming in and I already tried the Oatey Dark, which seems to work much better than the Mobilmet 766. If the Rigid extreme doesn't improve the results than its a wast of money as it is 2 times the price of the Rigid dark. In any case so far I'm happy with the Oatey Dark. I also only tried the Mobilmet on a different size pipe, so the next step will be a comparison with the same piece of 3/4" pipe using all three oils.

 

[600SL]

So far 5 votes for Rigid Dark, 1 vote for an unspecified Dark high sulfur oil.

 

[Jackfre]

On thee job we were always supplied the heavy dark oil for our oilers. It is also what I used on my own set of Ridgid’s. A question for you. Are you reversing and clearing the dies of the threads often? The machines apply a steady torque to threading but the manual load up and contributes or causes the galling, The quality or lack of also makes it difficult.

 

[600SL]

On thee job we were always supplied the heavy dark oil for our oilers. It is also what I used on my own set of Ridgid’s. A question for you. Are you reversing and clearing the dies of the threads often? The machines apply a steady torque to threading but the manual load up and contributes or causes the galling, The quality or lack of also makes it difficult.

The last few threads I have just been running the machine until the threads are complete. Stopping seems to cause problems. One of the things I may try is to clean out as much of the dies as I can before reversing off.

 

[fitter30]

Ridgid dark using a liberal amount with fitting screwing on 2.5 turns before getting snug by hand

 

[NUTTSGT]

When I put up my black iron pipe airlines, I used my cheap HF pipe threader. It was the older manual one not the newer electric one. I used my oil squirter which was normally sitting beside my drill press. It contains nothing special other than regular engine oil, which probably at that time was some 15W-40.

If doing so on the 1/2" pipe ruined the dies, I really don't care. I bought it for that one job. After that anything else was just bonus.

 

[PoorUB]

Using a certain oil isn't necessarily to protect the dies. The wrong oil can make some crappy threads. When I did HVAC I ran a lot of black pipe. The wholesaler recommended a new oil that just came out. The threads were terrible with the new oil. We went back to the good old stinky Dark.

 

[RoninB4]

-Have made NPT threads on occasion over the years in machine shops. I always preferred the old high sulfur, smelly oil for cutting the entire thread depth at one shot. Some of the die heads allowed a partial/finish depth of cut in two passes, much better than one full depth of cut in one pass. Don't know if that's possible with your equipment.

-Also have to say that the quality of ANY cutting tool can greatly affect the results. It's not just the steel and heat treating, finish grinding (or the lack of it) is a big factor affecting the results. So is the material being cut but that's a different discussion. If finish grinding isn't present on taps/dies then torn (instead of cleanly cut) thread flanks can be expected. Not being a tool snob, I understand what a budget allows and I've ordered cutting tools that weren't worth a **** too. Cheaply made cutting tools just cut corners when being made. Hope you find a solution.

 

[600SL]

The results are in. So far, I have tried the Mobilmet 766 and found it *****. No appreciable difference between Oatey Dark or the super expensive Rigid Extreme Performance. My conclusion is the only reason to pay twice the price for the Rigid Extreme is if you are working with both SS and black pipe. I can only assume the Rigid Dark and the Oatey Dark are the same. At this time most of my piping is done and has been pressure tested with no leaks. While the threads cut with the Harbor Freight threader are on the hairy side its not bad for the price and the cost of new threading dies from Harbor freight are only $6.00 kind of explains the thread quality.

 

[600SL]

When I put up my black iron pipe airlines, I used my cheap HF pipe threader. It was the older manual one not the newer electric one. I used my oil squirter which was normally sitting beside my drill press. It contains nothing special other than regular engine oil, which probably at that time was some 15W-40.

If doing so on the 1/2" pipe ruined the dies, I really don't care. I bought it for that one job. After that anything else was just bonus.

Exactly. I'm not a professional plumber. I bought the Harbor Freight tool 8 years ago when I did my last shop and all worked well despite me using the Mobilmet 766 oil and creating some pretty scary looking threads. The tool was about $129 at the time with all the dies. It was kind of a PIA at first. I found the 3/4" dies needed to be shimmed 0.006" to get then to cut to the right depth. On the Harbor Freight these are not adjustable but you can install shims to get them tighter. In the end when the job was all done using the Harbor freight tool with some threads missing some complete revolutions of material and using a good quality Teflon tape, I was able to shut my compressor off for a 2 week vacation, come back and turn it on and it wouldn't cycle until I used some air. So for this round I decided to investigate a better oil and I found it. Probably the last time I will use the pip threader.

But of course now that I'm done I ordered new dies.

 

[T444e]

The results are in. So far, I have tried the Mobilmet 766 and found it *****. No appreciable difference between Oatey Dark or the super expensive Rigid Extreme Performance. My conclusion is the only reason to pay twice the price for the Rigid Extreme is if you are working with both SS and black pipe. I can only assume the Rigid Dark and the Oatey Dark are the same. At this time most of my piping is done and has been pressure tested with no leaks. While the threads cut with the Harbor Freight threader are on the hairy side its not bad for the price and the cost of new threading dies from Harbor freight are only $6.00 kind of explains the thread quality.

Inhave never used Oatey. Wow, $6. I believe I've been paying around $100 for Ridgid dies, granted they are HSS and should have a much longer life.

It was kind of a PIA at first. I found the 3/4" dies needed to be shimmed 0.006" to get then to cut to the right depth.

I typically thread with a Ridgid 300 and the die heads are adjustable. I know me, and there is no way I would have tolerated that. If I didn't have access to a Ridgid machine I would have rented one. I absolutely hate tools that do not work.

 

[600SL]

Inhave never used Oatey. Wow, $6. I believe I've been paying around $100 for Ridgid dies, granted they are HSS and should have a much longer life.


I typically thread with a Ridgid 300 and the die heads are adjustable. I know me, and there is no way I would have tolerated that. If I didn't have access to a Ridgid machine I would have rented one. I absolutely hate tools that do not work.

$6 is just the blades. Rigid blades are about $62 or $75 for HSS for 3/4".

+1 on the tools that dont work. Most stuff from HF needs to be tweaked or modded in some way. But at 1/10 the price its worth it for non professional use.

Hears a pipe cutter I bought for the job. I red the reviews and saw that 25% of the people were having problems with the cutter spiraling down the pipe making a thread. The rest of the people were very happy with it. Probably why its on clearance for $10. So I went to HF with a 3/4" pipe in a vice grip. I tried the first one out and it threaded down the pipe. I tried the second one out and it worked perfectly. For $10, I'm just about done with it now and may never use it again.

https://www.harborfreight.com/no-2-pipe-cutter-62243.html

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Ridgid-37830-3-4-NPT-12-R-Alloy-RH-Manual-Threader-Pipe-Die-Pack-of-4?utm_source=google_ad&utm_medium=Shopping_Tools&utm_campaign=Shopping_X_Tools_X_SSC_New&utm_campaignid=22230238988&utm_adgroupid=173601025126&utm_targetid=pla-299873170245&utm_product_id=37830&utm_matchtype=&utm_keyword=&utm_adtype=pla&utm_category=Tools&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22230238988&gclid=CjwKCAjwiezABhBZEiwAEbTPGCclY4JwNLp1HTLBz6hIgpFpyCCzZ1Em_4HGD7v0JwyxzfucLxObexoC6sMQAvD_BwE

https://www.supplyhouse.com/Ridgid-37920-3-4-12-R-NPT-High-Speed-Threading-Dies-for-Stainless-Steel-RH-Pack-of-4?gQT=1

 

[Dagny]

I buy the oatly when I need a new squirt bottle then refill it with ridgid dark. Fayette black pipe threads like a dream but my supply house does not always have it. When I order black I usually get 200 feet at a time I ask them to go look what they are stocking at the time and say If its china or turkey I want none if its usa 200 if its fayette double it they usually send usa wheatland.

 

[600SL]

I buy the oatly when I need a new squirt bottle then refill it with ridgid dark. Fayette black pipe threads like a dream but my supply house does not always have it. When I order black I usually get 200 feet at a time I ask them to go look what they are stocking at the time and say If its china or turkey I want none if its usa 200 if its fayette double it they usually send usa wheatland.

Yeah but my latest Oatey bottle has a different bottle. It now comes with more of a salad dressing cap. The old flip up squirt bottle is gone. It was so handy. Last pipe I bought from Home Depot was made in USA. But I was a bit disappointed with it because the pipe threaded in way too far by hand. But it did work.

 

[Mr onetwo]

Ridgid dark by the 55 gallon drum for 30 years. There are different dies for stainless steel...reg alloy ones don't work very well.No oil if threading brass pipe.