Pipe wrench for stripped diff fill plug?

[99LeCouch]

I'm going to be changing the rear differential and power takeoff fluids on our 2013 RAV4. A pint of Amsoil Severe Gear 75w-90 is going into each, along with new plugs and crush washers. If the old, crusty fill and drain plugs can be removed, that is!

The fill and drain plugs on the rear diff take a 10mm hex socket. I darn near stripped out the hex from the fill plug because it's rusty. There is enough room and exposed surface area to get a pipe wrench onto the plugs. Obviously, I don't want to crack the aluminum diff case getting this steel plug out.

I also have lots of PB Blaster, and a propane plumbing torch. My thinking right now is heat up the case around the plug, spray the plug with Blaster, and use a pipe wrench with a cheater bar on the plug. Will this plan have any chance, or just stinking up the garage with fumes?

 

[ItsNemo]

Having done this job on a Rav4 before, I can't imagine there's much to bite on there...when I did it, I used a pick to clean out as much of the **** in the 10mm plug and then really wiggled in the hex socket.

 

[Mick56]

I second the cleaning out the plug, blow it out with air, and tap in the hex socket. Keep tapping awhile, that will also help loosen the plug. Put it back in with some anti-seize.

 

[Indexmill]

Be careful; if you strip it you will be drilling and ezee-outing it. After a few choice words.

 

[JimDon]

Get yourself a spray can of Kroil and three or four days before you start working on it, spray the hell out of the plug with the Kroil. do this every day for three or four days to give it some good soaking time. One more thing you can try and I know it sounds nuts, but I learned this from an old welder on another site. He calls it "micro peening." Take your smaller ball peen hammer and hit the plug on the end lightly. More than tapping it, but less than beating the "s--t" out of it. Do this 200 to 300 times in a row. After the Kroil is on the threads, this sets up a vibration that tends to loosen the rust and scale the Kroil ate into. I know, I know, it sounds crazy like I've been drinking or something, but I haven't. And this crazy thing actually works. I've used it a number of times on stuff that was rusted solid that nobody thought would come loose.
Good luck,
JimDon

 

[Jacksonsman]

Controversial take here, but if it works and gets the job done, DO IT. Buy the new plug and then move on. I worked as a diesel mechanic on a boat at sea. We did stuff that some guys would lose their mind over. You naturally get in to spots like this, your not gonna have all the tools you have at the shop back shore-side. You do what you need to do.

Be careful not to mar the case, have a replacement plug, and giver er'hell.

 

[Lwel9226]

Get yourself a spray can of Kroil and three or four days before you start working on it, spray the hell out of the plug with the Kroil. do this every day for three or four days to give it some good soaking time. One more thing you can try and I know it sounds nuts, but I learned this from an old welder on another site. He calls it "micro peening." Take your smaller ball peen hammer and hit the plug on the end lightly. More than tapping it, but less than beating the "s--t" out of it. Do this 200 to 300 times in a row. After the Kroil is on the threads, this sets up a vibration that tends to loosen the rust and scale the Kroil ate into. I know, I know, it sounds crazy like I've been drinking or something, but I haven't. And this crazy thing actually works. I've used it a number of times on stuff that was rusted solid that nobody thought would come loose.
Good luck,
JimDon

This absolutely works.... Set up a vibration that helps the Kriol to penetrate better....


LynnW

 

[Provincial]

I would suggest using a short piece of Allen wrench in the plug to hammer on. That way you don't risk damaging the internal hex. It also carries the impact down to the threaded area better.

 

[G1GRANDEUR]

try attach hex socket to impact screw driver?

 

[Loren871]

I just hope you have t already stripped the plug out. Dam near isn’t good lol. All the tips so far are pretty spot on and I would use all of um as those are usually my first steps when dealing with stubborn allens. Can also use a hammer and chisel if you can get in there at the right angle.Probably don’t have access to one but if all that fails I usually weld a nut to the bolt if I can get to it. Haven’t ever not got one out like that.

 

[Skin]

Last year MAC introduced some "RBRT" hex sockets that look like reverse flute sockets mated with a torx. They bite in instead of rounding. Might be worth picking a socket up for ~$10.


Alternately an air hammer or regular old hammer and chisel, catch the end and bash a few times, should come loose.

 

[joe_pinehill1]

Consider welding a nut to the plug. If you don't have a welder, take it to a shop. The heat will help loosen the plug.

When changing differential oil, always loosen the fill plug, then the drain.

 

[Doug Arthurs]

When I have heard to remove Allen bolts or Phillip's screws I usually go to my proto hand Impact driver and a ball pen hammer.

 

[Mr_B]

Consider welding a nut to the plug. If you don't have a welder, take it to a shop. The heat will help loosen the plug.

When changing differential oil, always loosen the fill plug, then the drain.

This what we do get old ones out.
On taper thread plugs we fit them with couple twists of teflon tape and just nip them up sensibly, stop leaks thus stops need for people doing them murder tight, reduces differing metal contact and moisture ingress thus corrosion . Easy remove and clean next time .

 

[RedneckWelder]

Normally the plugs I have to deal with are the flush kind that you stick a square drive tool or an Allen hex key socket into. Those kind I am pretty damn good at walking out with an air hammer

External ones, very rare for me, I’d try a bolt gripping rounded fastener removal socket on. Try hitting it with a hammer first to jar it loose. Any time you have steel going into aluminum it’s a potential for a ****** day IMHO

Welding a nut in it is also a good method and the heat helps a lot

 

[awdblazer]

i have a 2001 rav
i used a hex socket on a ratchet and i shock it with a hammer
works everytime

 

[Catch_22]

People laugh at me for having this in my assortment of tools but this is exactly when its useful.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008M23A5U/?tag=atomicindus08-20

If it was me? Heat/MAP, penetrating oil, hammer/vibrations, wait 10 minutes, hammer in a torx, heat and turn that thing out.

 

[MattT]

I darn near stripped out the hex from the fill plug because it's rusty.

Depending on how far gone it is valve grinding compound on the allen bit might work. And use a new bit if you've "darn near" rounded the old one. If that doesn't work the other guys have covered escalating the violence

 

[kelpaso1]

If it is stripped I have had good luck pounding a larger Torx bit in the hole.

 

[QwikKotaTx]

People laugh at me for having this in my assortment of tools but this is exactly when its useful.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008M23A5U/?tag=atomicindus08-20

If it was me? Heat/MAP, penetrating oil, hammer/vibrations, wait 10 minutes, hammer in a torx, heat and turn that thing out.

That is cool! Hex feature for wrench turning.

When things like this get stuck I cut a slot in them for turning with a large flathead screwdriver or prybar but the head is not always proud of the main surface. I have since welded on a large nut to the flush drain plug on my Dakota's Mag-Hytec diff cover. The factory setup is a large 1" plug with o-ring and a tiny 3/16" Allen key drive. Stupid.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[nh_yota]

Had a 2001 Rav4 and luckily I put miles on it so quick that the plug never had time to seize up. I think the transfer case plugs were inverted hex but the rear diff plugs were regular 24mm.

Have a 2010 Tacoma and the drain plug for the front diff has the same inverted hex head and the same rust problem. First time I changed the fluid I was able to soak the plug with PB Blaster for a day or two beforehand and break it loose with my 18" breaker bar. Second time I changed the fluid I could not get the plug loose and ended up stripping out the head after using a torx socket on an impact gun. Ended up taking it to a shop and having them remove it. Never asked them how because I didn't care. They did replace the plug with a new one.

Try soaking it for a few days with PB Blaster or Kroil and then clean **** out of the recess with a pick. Use a longer breaker bar on the the 10mm hex socket and try to take your time and work it loose without stripping it. That's how I did it the first time on the Tacoma and it worked - it just took some patience. I believe I hammered the bit into the plug before wrenching on it and somehow I managed to get it back out once the plug was removed.

 

[Fix Until Broke]

People laugh at me for having this in my assortment of tools but this is exactly when its useful.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008M23A5U/?tag=atomicindus08-20

If it was me? Heat/MAP, penetrating oil, hammer/vibrations, wait 10 minutes, hammer in a torx, heat and turn that thing out.

This and a good air hammer. I've removed countless fittings that you couldn't even tell what shape it originally was after someone else mangled it up and then came to me and said "it won't come out..." It's darn near magical how well this works.

Combine it with heat* and some penetrating oil and it'll come out

* don't be shy here, but with a steel plug and aluminum case, you do need to be careful. If you have a regular plumbers torch - you can't mess it up, but if you have an oxy/fuel torch be careful with the aluminum. I'd suggest putting the torch in the hex of the plug and heating there - the aluminum will carry heat away too easily. Minutes is fine with a typical propane torch, but will only take seconds with oxy/fuel - when the plug glows dark red, spray it with penetrating oil to cool it and help draw it in the threads. Then put the impact adapter above on it and you'll walk it right out. Hammer while applying torque with the wrench.

 

[sberry]

Here,,, first sign of trouble and it didn't go would have got heated a little or welded on.

 

[MikeF2316]

Consider welding a nut to the plug. If you don't have a welder, take it to a shop. The heat will help loosen the plug.

When changing differential oil, always loosen the fill plug, then the drain.

Yes, make sure you can get the fill plug out first. You fell pretty silly with a bucket of oil you've drained out and no way to get any new into whatever you're working on.

 

[nh_yota]

Yes, make sure you can get the fill plug out first. You fell pretty silly with a bucket of oil you've drained out and no way to get any new into whatever you're working on.

Always - I repeat always - do this.

 

[PartsGuy]

People laugh at me for having this in my assortment of tools but this is exactly when its useful.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008M23A5U/?tag=atomicindus08-20

If it was me? Heat/MAP, penetrating oil, hammer/vibrations, wait 10 minutes, hammer in a torx, heat and turn that thing out.

Why would they laugh at you????? When stuff works, it works!

 

[HaroRider]

I did one on a Lexus, they really get stuck in there. I used heat, a hammer, and vice grips and finally was able to get it out. This was after stripping the allen head.

 

[Junkdrawer Dog]

By all means, use whatever you need to remove the old plug. Then reinstall a new plug with a light smear of your favorite sealant and just snug it up. I built and serviced industrial gearboxes for several years and never understood why people think drain and fill plugs need to be tightened til they bleed.

 

[nh_yota]

I built and serviced industrial gearboxes for several years and never understood why people think drain and fill plugs need to be tightened til they bleed.

Most if not all Toyota diff drain plugs come with steel crush washers that need to be torqued down to 48 ft/lbs or so. It doesn't seem like a lot but when you add a few years of corrosion it can be a huge pain to remove them.

 

[PoorOwner]

You can try this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RMT63A/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I wouldn't use a pipe wrench, I would use a large visegrip, if you can get purchase on the outside of the fill bolt. (after cleaning off any penetrating lubrication on the surface). Having the vise grip handle almost not closing, squeeze it with another pair of pliers to close the vise grip.

Maybe use a long ratchet and turn the hex bit and the vise grips at the same time. Repeat as needed.

 

[rlitman]

Yes, make sure you can get the fill plug out first. You fell pretty silly with a bucket of oil you've drained out and no way to get any new into whatever you're working on.

Nah, why worry about that. Just turn the car upside down and fill it up through the drain.

But seriously, if you can get the fill off, you can use a suction gun through it.

 

[joe_pinehill1]

Consider welding a nut to the plug. If you don't have a welder, take it to a shop. The heat will help loosen the plug.

When changing differential oil, always loosen the fill plug, then the drain.

I know your's is stripped so its advice after the fact, but I use a breaker bar, or long 1/2 inch ratchet, with a 3 foot pipe on the end for the dif plugs on my Subarus. I have not had luck with an impact wrench. But a socket with long pipe, me holding the wrench, a helper, usually one of my daughters pulling up on the pipe loosens the plug.

Like I posted earlier, if I were you, I would ask a shop to weld a nut on the plug, and loosen it for you or do the drain and fill.

 

[Wrench97]

If 10mm is loose try 11mm or 7/16" if you have a socket the hand held impact driver is a good idea.

 

[99LeCouch]

Hmm, heating and air hammering sounds like it might could work. After hammering it, and trying to hammer in an 11mm hex socket. Also, I'll make sure to hit it with Blaster for the next week or so. No Kroil, sadly.

I have new plugs on order at the local dealer, so the stuck one is garbage no matter what happens.

 

[tarmy]

Lots of good advice...be patient...don’t rush the penetrating oil phase. Tapping/hitting the plug helps...just do not rush in frustration.

As others mentioned...anything you drain...make sure you can fill it before you drain it. First thing I taught my boys about working on cars.

 

[kctyphoon]

I think before you do anything - you need to order new ones..

Does hex socket mean “bolt”?

I bet it you throw a torch on it, itll come off easily.. you could always buy those cheap HF stripped bolt sockets.. i think I’d try that first if i was really worried about it.

Vice grips, pump pliers.. worst case if you can get to it, grind the head into a square.

But i bet heat and those sockets would work just fine.

Ok “extractor sockets” is the “technical” term.. here..

https://www.harborfreight.com/hand-...e-metric-bolt-extractor-socket-set-67894.html

If you leave a torch on things long enough, just about anything will come off. Its takes a few minutes sometimes. Just dont throw a flame on the thing for 10 seconds.. and I’d heat the bolt itself, not just the area around it. With a little propane torch - i have to count to like 30 to heat up brass fittings just to solder them onto pipes. Give it 2 min.. itll work much better than oil.

 

[ChevyEFI]

I have new plugs on order at the local dealer, so the stuck one is garbage no matter what happens.

If the drive on the plug is internal hex, I'd skip that. Figure out the thread size, and get one in internal square drive. Magnetic in 1/2-14 NPT is readily available; don't know what thread you have.

 

[nh_yota]

The OP is talking about the type of plug in this picture (it's from a Tacoma like mine even though he has a Rav4).

The hex/allen recess is not very deep so it's hard to get the bit seated in far enough to apply enough torque without camming it out.

 

[MikeF2316]

The OP is talking about the type of plug in this picture (it's from a Tacoma like mine even though he has a Rav4).

The hex/allen recess is not very deep so it's hard to get the bit seated in far enough to apply enough torque without camming it out.

They look like standard 18 mm (give or take) thread plugs. I'd be searching for a different design from some other car, there are lots out there.

 

[99LeCouch]

Already picked up new plugs and crush washers from the dealer. Next time around I'll get better (and cheaper!) plugs now that I know what other options are out there.

I'll take a picture and post it up in a few weeks after I get a chance to work on it. And to extract the old plugs with some amount of carnage.