Pipe Wrench

[bob_the_builder]

What is everyone's preference for pipe wrenches? I am looking for a set just to have around in the garage for general use. I was wondering if it's best to go with the traditional style, the quick flip jaw style or the Snap-on PWZ style.

Thanks to everyone in advance.

Bob

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[jumbojak]

I have traditional Rigid pipe wrenches from 6" to 36" scattered about. The Swedish style looks interesting but I wonder how they lock down. Traditional style pipe wrenches are tough and fast. They work almost like a ratchet.

 

[Sportsman762]

I have always used normal pipe wrenches. I have always wanted to use a swedish style pipe wrench. The other day I used a 48" compound pipe wrench. It put out more torque than the 60" by a considerable sum. I have got to get me one. However I still could not break the pipe loose. (6" pipe on a mud pump that someone screwed together with a large threader about 30 years ago)

 

[plinker]

I've got the Ridgid style pipe wrenches and the Snap-on PWZ's my brother had. The PWZ's are ok, I like them for automotive work (tie rods mainly).

I prefer a pipe wrench for pipe work. With the PWZ's, you have to have a good grip on the thing to keep it on whatever your working on, where as a pipe wrench does it for you since the moving jaw isnt part of the handle.

 

[6PTsocket]

Thats what I love about GJ. I had never heard of Swedish pipe wrenches. I was able to find a video (Matco) to see one demonstrated. You seem to be trading fast adjustment for loss of the "ratchet" action of a conventional pipe wrench. Great for breaking something loose but not so fast if a lot of turning is needed.

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[Moose Legs]

I recommend a traditional style ridgid. The quick jaw ones can be handy but they have a more limited jaw capacity. The swedish style are generally more expensive and I’m not sure if they have a ratcheting action, plus it doesn’t look as easy to put a snipe on it if you need to. I would not cheap out on a pipe wrench ever again, I’ve had soft metal jaws deform and slip when used on steel with barely any use and cheap aluminum handles snap without even using a snipe.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

I mostly use the semi traditional style Trimo they are cheaper and work a little smoother than Ridgid. For just having around, the 'knife handle' style like theis H.D.Smith is hard to beat

 

[sberry]

You may need to hammer, back up hammer on old fittings to get some of them loose before wrenching.

 

[Rc_Guy]

You may need to hammer, back up hammer on old fittings to get some of them loose before wrenching.

We had one six inch 90 that we hammered on an had two guys hanging on an eight foot price of 2" sch 40 pipe as a cheater on a compound wrench and still couldn't get it loose, we ended up using a bigger hammer to shatter the 90.

 

[sberry]

Yes, **** happens. Have had to cut them off too.

 

[dr_clyde]

When I was fitting a lot of pipe, I used standard style Ridgid aluminum wrenches. I have 2 each up to 24" for daily drivers, and I have a 36" iron Ridgid I bought at an estate sale. The company had some 48" wrenches we used, but that was as big as we needed to go.

I have a few of the Snap-on swedish style, they are nice for smaller pipe, like assembling a setup with a lot of 1/4" or 1/8" ******* and couplings. They seemed to bite the small stainless fittings better.

For bigger pipe, I would always reach for the Ridgid, even though we had a few bigger swedish pattern wrenches.

Most of our threaded pipe was 2" and smaller, anything bigger than that we welded so I didn't need anything bigger than a 48" wrench. And that was for things like stuck unions and joints that needed a ton of leverage.

 

[ultgar]

For home use, 36" is about as big as I ever have to go. I've used this several times with stubborn cast iron steam pipes in our old home. As an older guy, I go for the lighter weight aluminum wrenches, especially in the 24" and 36" sizes. For 8-14", cast iron wrenches are fine.