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Piping a pole barn for air

Daddy454

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Jul 25, 2012
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450
Location
Spring Creek,NV
Any ideas?I've got a 24x48' pole barn shop,getting ready to plumb it for air.My problem is how to go about it aesthetically,as well as functionally.I've got it drywalled between the posts,but the posts are exposed.I would like the mains tight to the wall,but this means numerous elbows to go around the posts.Other option would be to run the mains across the faces of the posts,but then they would sit about 2-3"off the wall(no clearance between top of posts and roof).Anybody ever dealt with this issue before?If so,how did you go about it?Any pics would be helpful.
img_4209.jpg

Pic of what I'm talking about if that helps.
 
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LutzTD

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Dec 31, 2011
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3,673
Location
Lutz, Florida
Any ideas?I've got a 24x48' pole barn shop,getting ready to plumb it for air.My problem is how to go about it aesthetically,as well as functionally.I've got it drywalled between the posts,but the posts are exposed.I would like the mains tight to the wall,but this means numerous elbows to go around the posts.Other option would be to run the mains across the faces of the posts,but then they would sit about 2-3"off the wall(no clearance between top of posts and roof).Anybody ever dealt with this issue before?If so,how did you go about it?Any pics would be helpful.

what about between the trusses and the roof? looks like you have space between the purlins, I am keeping my lines high except for an occasional wall drop and hanging air reels. You dont want to come straight off your horozontal lines anyway, best to come off the top of the horozontal line then a couple elbows and drop down anyway, so leave the lines high and just make the drops longer
 
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Daddy454

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Jul 25, 2012
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Spring Creek,NV
what about between the trusses and the roof? looks like you have space between the purlins, I am keeping my lines high except for an occasional wall drop and hanging air reels. You dont want to come straight off your horozontal lines anyway, best to come off the top of the horozontal line then a couple elbows and drop down anyway, so leave the lines high and just make the drops longer
Interesting idea.Never even thought of that.Then I could "hide" the lines behind the purlins.Only thing I'm wondering,is I think the purlins might be offset as they go the length of the building.I'll have to check it out in the morning.Thanks bro'
 
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Daddy454

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Jul 25, 2012
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Spring Creek,NV
Just drill a hole through the post. Problem solved
Yeah,I thought of that already.Only thing is I've already drilled once for my electrical,and I was concerned about compromising the post in the same area,and it would be pretty close to the edge of the posts.Still a possibility though.
 

Lippyp

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Jun 26, 2006
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Shropshire, UK
Just run it on the face of the posts and get some "S" shaped hooks bent up so you can use it to hang stuff off!
 

Tim The Tool Man

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Mar 1, 2012
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Location
Lehigh Valley, PA
Several elbows really won't compromise your air volume that much but if that is your main concern then buy a roll of 1/2" HVAC grade coiled copper and make yourself some custom bends without the sharp 90* angles...
 

sberry

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Jun 18, 2005
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Brethren, Michigan
Forget about 90% of it, figure out where 2 reels and maybe a fixed whip would work and pipe to those, I dont like "hot" hydrants which means unplugging sections of charged air hose, I never have to add hose, all the unhook is right at the tool.
 

Falcon67

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Jun 11, 2009
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Merkel, TX
With an open attic like that, I'd run it above the joists and T off to the wall and down for drops.
 
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Daddy454

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Jul 25, 2012
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Location
Spring Creek,NV
Several elbows really won't compromise your air volume that much but if that is your main concern then buy a roll of 1/2" HVAC grade coiled copper and make yourself some custom bends without the sharp 90* angles...
Yeah,I'm not really concerned about the air volume,as much as all the elbows.Plus going around each post is gonna be-elbow,1"******,elbow,2"******,elbow,1" ******,elbow'and on,and on,and on,and on.Might get to be a PITA,as well as,well,a PITA.
 
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Daddy454

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Joined
Jul 25, 2012
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450
Location
Spring Creek,NV
Forget about 90% of it, figure out where 2 reels and maybe a fixed whip would work and pipe to those, I dont like "hot" hydrants which means unplugging sections of charged air hose, I never have to add hose, all the unhook is right at the tool.
I thought about doing just reels,but I kinda wanted a fixed line to my bench,then over the wall to the paint room.I'd also like a line to the front bay door with a stub out for blowing **** off/out outside the garage(like the wife's dusty *** vacuum cleaner filters).Then I was thinking just one reel in the center mounted on a truss for misc. **** in the middle of the shop-working on the cars.
img_4211.jpg

img_4212.jpg

Pics of the area I'm dealing with to give you an idea.
 
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Daddy454

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Jul 25, 2012
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Spring Creek,NV
With an open attic like that, I'd run it above the joists and T off to the wall and down for drops.
This is starting to seem like the most viable scenario.Didn't really think of it at first,but now with all these suggestions,it's got me thinking more.That's why I love this forum.The ol' 2 heads are better than 1 theory.
 

rodm1

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Feb 17, 2008
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2,270
I have the same setup I've thought of running 2x4 around the perimeter of the shop along the lower part of upper chord just above the gusset. I think running it along the purlins is a bad idea because a roofer is guaranteed to run a screw or nail right into your air system.

I'm thinking it might work well for electrical.
 

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911mike

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May 22, 2010
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494
Location
michigan
Moto and Jack Daniels. Sounds like my kind of place.

Look at Airnet piping. Pricey but EASY to install and make changes. They make 1-3 ft whips that allow you to get around posts without all the 90 corners. I installed about 300 ft in my barn and ZERO leaks. I added 2 drops afterwards and it took 15 minutes and you don't need to undo what is already done.
 

2001RedCoupeBandit

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Sep 6, 2012
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229
Interesting idea.Never even thought of that.Then I could "hide" the lines behind the purlins.Only thing I'm wondering,is I think the purlins might be offset as they go the length of the building.I'll have to check it out in the morning.Thanks bro'


That's why you post on here. These Guys are SMART! :thumbup:
 
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Daddy454

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Jul 25, 2012
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Spring Creek,NV
If it's like my steel roof something will have to be done leak city!
I've been pretty lucky so far.I've had it for almost 5 yrs. and no leaks yet.When it was built ,they used some funky screws with little rubber gaskets on each one.So far,so good.
 
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Daddy454

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Jul 25, 2012
Messages
450
Location
Spring Creek,NV
Moto and Jack Daniels. Sounds like my kind of place.

Look at Airnet piping. Pricey but EASY to install and make changes. They make 1-3 ft whips that allow you to get around posts without all the 90 corners. I installed about 300 ft in my barn and ZERO leaks. I added 2 drops afterwards and it took 15 minutes and you don't need to undo what is already done.
If your ever in Nevada,come on by.Never heard of the stuff,but I will give it a look.Thanks man.
 
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Daddy454

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Jul 25, 2012
Messages
450
Location
Spring Creek,NV
2001Bandit- I am with you on that.I have learned/pilfered a ton of ideas from the guys on this board.I only wish I had found this place sooner.I've had my shop for 5 yrs.,and I realize I still got a lot of work to do
 
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