Piston ring compression tool

[threeputt]

I have used two types over the years I worked as a mechanic. I am now retired but working on my things. Any suggestions on the best ring compression tool that will not break my rings when I install them? I have an old Seal Power tool that has the pliers and five different bands. The problem with this one is the band that is the closest to working is not exactly right. I have a 91.5 MM piston which equates to 3.6 inches I think. I do not want to use the steel band adjustable ring compressor as I broke some rings years ago and never again do I want to use one of those. Has anyone here ever used one of these. They are supposed to be the best

91.50mm ARP Tapered Ring Compressors


Tom

 

[shurik06_83]

vw audi came out with the idea I think . I did a few vr6 engines and the funnel idea works great lots of lube and it just slides in

look it up vr6 piston ring funnel its been around for almost 20 yrs

 

[lilredex]

If the rings break, there could be a ridge left at the cylinder top, that needs to be removed.

This is the one I used when employed at an engine rebuilder. It installed thousands of pistons without a single incident of ring breakage. The key is having no ridge and lots of lubrication.

You can see it has not been used in a while......I moved on from that job in 1962.

 

[McRae]

Has anyone here ever used one of these. They are supposed to be the best

91.50mm ARP Tapered Ring Compressors


Tom

Yup, best one ever, by far. Addictive... Got almost twenty different sizes by now.

 

[86k10]

If the rings break, there could be a ridge left at the cylinder top, that needs to be removed.

This is the one I used when employed at an engine rebuilder. It installed thousands of pistons without a single incident of ring breakage. The key is having no ridge and lots of lubrication.

You can see it has not been used in a while......I moved on from that job in 1962.

Same style I use except it is a Blue Point one I have used on 20 plus DT466 and I recommend it. Like it has been mentioned, lots of lube.

 

[malibu101]

If the rings break, there could be a ridge left at the cylinder top, that needs to be removed.

This is the one I used when employed at an engine rebuilder. It installed thousands of pistons without a single incident of ring breakage. The key is having no ridge and lots of lubrication.

You can see it has not been used in a while......I moved on from that job in 1962.

I too have used that type of compressor many times with minimal problems.
As you said, no ridge and lots of lube are important. Another very important thing is to make sure the compressor is contacting the block all the way around.
See how in the pic each end of the band is not even? With piston in the compressor and setting on the block, lightly tap the full perimeter of the compressor to seat it against the block. You'll feel when it is good.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

The pliers and bands you mention work quite well. The bands are tapered to "funnel" the piston and rings into the cylinder, if you get them turned the wrong way, you could damage the rings. The set has many sizes. I have the Mac set and added to it by purchasing every ring made for it. Works on anything from a lawnmower to a Continental 550 cubic inch engine's cylinder on a flat six aircraft engine.

I think this set is actually marketed by KD.

This is the KD set on the Sears web site.............................

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00999912000P?mv=rr

It has six rings with it, The KD catalog shows a total of 7 rings available.

I suspect that your problem in the past may have been having the ring upside down, the taper is subtle and difficult to detect but it is there.

Charles

 

[dr.gizmo]

Lisle wrinkle band compressor, cheap ,simple, very low friction and will never follow the piston into the bore. I have been using one for 25 years.http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=93&division=1&category=6

 

[xj31]

If you break rings installing them, it's not because there is a ridge. That will cause them to break on removal. Think about it. If you break rings when installing them, it's because they popped out of the compressor before they were in the cylinder. Probably because the compressor wasn't touching the block.

 

[rsanter]

The tapered ring type is the best I have ever used. The bad thing is that you need one for every size and overbore you will be doing. I have a bunch of them now but they dont get used much anymore.
The expanding type one shown works good but I'd harder to use due to the increased friction. I never broke any rings using them.
The wavy wall one that someone mentioned worked well when I tried it and seemed to have less friction.

Bob

 

[threeputt]

I tried to buy an ARP brand but they told me they are not available and probably will be in late June. I bought the KD850. Tom