pit dimensions for flush mounted Bendpak MD-6XP

[shuie]

Does anyone have the pit dimensions to flush mount a Bendpak MD-6XP?

I called Bendpak and the tech guy would not provide any dimensions for a pit because they don't recommend installing it that way. I understand that the lift can creep, but I have seen many similar 6000lb mid rise scissor lifts flush mounted in pits.

I need to park over the lift and I do not want ramps. If it is just a bad idea to flush mount the MD-6XP then I would rather buy a different lift at this price point that can be flush mounted without issue. If that is the case can someone please recommend another mid rise scissor lift and post those pit dimensions.

TIA

 

[ket-tek]

Don't have deminsions, but here is a pic of a 6xp recessed:

There are a few sp-7x recessed installs out there:

Here's a bendpak P-6B recessed in a members popular M-House garage:

 

[shuie]

Thanks for the help. I've also been looking at the low rise pit style P-6FB. I need to figure out if it has enough lift to do engine drops & installs in my cars. The online specs say 29" with the pads, which is probably enough. SP-7X is 2x the cost and I don't have the ceiling clearance for it.

 

[TheWhiteMamba]

Were you ever able to figure this one out? Bendpak has their dimension sheet online that I looked at and I had asked for a bit more info regarding this same install, but was directed to a sales guy that didn't answer all of my questions.

The Bendpak sheet shows that the MD-6XP is 79"x39.5". That drawing doesn't take into account the 2" (or at least that is what I was told by the sales guy) hitch on one end used to move the lift. Also the lowest lift clearance is stated as 4.75", but I wasn't able to get enough info on how tall the tallest most point (near where the rams connect) is exactly. I've heard 6" but you know what happens when you assume... Maybe someone who actually has this lift will be able to shed some better light on the matter, and/or we can find out who installed that lift in the second post.

 

[shuie]

Nope, never got any solid dimensions. All of the portable midrise scissor lifts I have looked at vary on the spec sheets by 1-2" in length and width. I'm going to make a decision and buy one within the next week. I'll use it with the ramps until I find out exactly where I want it in the garage. I'll trace around it and cut the pit at that point. I'll post whatever dimensions I have when finished.

 

[TheWhiteMamba]

Hey Shuie,

I don't know how close you are to pulling the trigger on one of these lifts but the best price I *had* seen was with Northern Tool offering them up at $1915, free delivery (less a liftgate) and no tax to my place in CA.

Just recently though, I found that Summit Racing had the same price on the lift, again no tax BUT they covered the shipping AND lift gate service! So that there saved me about $135. I don't know if that sways you to pull it but it did for me! I had been eyeing these guys for a long time and needed an out of the way lift which allowed for my doors to open fully.

I'll post my final dimensions once it arrives (hopefully this week, I'm only 2 hours from the Bendpak plant).

 

[shuie]

Awesome. Thanks. That may seal the deal for me. Northern Tool was an additional $90 for a lift gate and it was going to cost an additional $190 for shipping and a lift gate if I went with the Atlas.

I found a local guy who is upgrading to a two post and wants to get rid of his current setup. I need to go take a look to see what kind of lift he has to sell. If that doesn't work out I would probably go with the Bendpak from Summit if it was $1915 delivered with liftgate service.

Thanks again.

 

[Vvmvbb]

for the md-6xp the form I used measured 44"x84"x7.5" deep. The plywood cover which was also a form for itself was 48"x 88".

More info about my build here (especially see last page).

 

[shuie]

Thanks for the info. Do you have any issues straddling the pit when you park over the lift? Do you think you could have made the pit any narrower?

 

[Vvmvbb]

Thanks for the info. Do you have any issues straddling the pit when you park over the lift? Do you think you could have made the pit any narrower?

At first I'd park a liitle on the plywood sometimes, but not so much anymore.
That said you could go 2" narrower.

 

[fast85pony]

vvmvvb: this is a great looking install. Question on depth - could it be shallower if my intention was to use the shortest pad configuration, say 4.75" min height + .75 for the plywood and .50 for just-in-case, for a total of 6"? Thanks.

 

[coreseller]

I recessed an Atlas TD6MR about a year ago, here is a link to the project:

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/993-forum/737371-group-purchase-on-atlas-scissor-lift.html

You are wise to be careful to get the dimensions of the recess right, also make sure to get the placement of the hole correct.

 

[shuie]

awesome. thanks again.

coreseller, did you dig and pour any concrete under the edge of the recess you cut in the original slab for support? Or, is that just not needed. I see the piers and the rebar in the pics, but is there anything tying the old slab to the new recessed area?

 

[GH85Carrera]

Vvmvbb, that is just what I am wanting to do.

How close is the plywood to the top of the lift? When closed up does the lift help support the plywood at all?

My garage is a 3 car garage and the bay that is next to the workbench where I plan to put the lift is situated so that to park there on a day to day basis I back in. Backing into the garage is no big deal since it is plenty wide but I sometimes am over to one side or the other or crooked. I know I will be driving over the plywood on occasion.

I have seen some installations where the guy put some sheet metal under the rollers to prevent damage to the concrete on the bottom of the pit. Do you see that as necessary?

 

[Professur]

If you're considering dropping the engine out of a car on this lift ... have you factored in the lost lift height in recessing?

 

[Vvmvbb]

I'll dig out and take some measurements tomorrow.

The manual can be found here in the mean time.

Vvmvbb, that is just what I am wanting to do.

How close is the plywood to the top of the lift? When closed up does the lift help support the plywood at all?

My garage is a 3 car garage and the bay that is next to the workbench where I plan to put the lift is situated so that to park there on a day to day basis I back in. Backing into the garage is no big deal since it is plenty wide but I sometimes am over to one side or the other or crooked. I know I will be driving over the plywood on occasion.

I have seen some installations where the guy put some sheet metal under the rollers to prevent damage to the concrete on the bottom of the pit. Do you see that as necessary?

I remove the lift pads and leave the medium lift pad riser in place and it's just below the plywood so does support it [dimension tomorrow]

No need at all to protect the floor in my experience, especially if it's down in a pit.

If you're considering dropping the engine out of a car on this lift ... have you factored in the lost lift height in recessing?

It goes pretty high - 4' plus the lift arm plus the medium riser plus the lift pad, so I'm not worried, but no, I never calc'd it. And there are lift pad extenders included too, gain another 3"~4". Not sure what I'm going to do about dropping the engine onto a dolly of some sort with the pit there, but I'll figure that out when the time comes (couple of cinder blocks and a piece of plywood to make a temporary platform perhaps).

vvmvvb: this is a great looking install. Question on depth - could it be shallower if my intention was to use the shortest pad configuration, say 4.75" min height + .75 for the plywood and .50 for just-in-case, for a total of 6"? Thanks.

Thanks!
As shipped the shortest config includes the medium lift pad riser and lift pad. The manual shows a pad without the riser but that doesn't come with.
So you would remove the lift pad riser (slides right off) and pad for min height when closed, but the arms are going to stay.
[dimensions tomorrow]

Hope that helps.
Edit: while hunting down the extenders, I found the flat pads. Forgot all about them.

 

[shuie]

Not sure what I'm going to do about dropping the engine onto a dolly of some sort with the pit there, but I'll figure that out when the time comes (couple of cinder blocks and a piece of plywood to make a temporary platform perhaps).

That is my biggest concern with this style lift. The height will be plenty for me. You have a 993, right? Is there enough room under the car to get an engine cart in there without it falling into the pit?

 

[Vvmvbb]

Here are the heights of all combinaions of things with the lift completely down. Note that i realize now that the lift shipped with the flat pads. Forgot about that. Depending on what you want to remove each time you cover it will set your pit depth which could be 4.5 absolute minimum (the lift arms get installed permanently).

 

[Vvmvbb]

That is my biggest concern with this style lift. The height will be plenty for me. You have a 993, right? Is there enough room under the car to get an engine cart in there without it falling into the pit?

Yep, '95 993 C4.
Looking at the pit just now, jumping up and down on the platform, and looking at the yellow car up top in this thread, I think a 4' x whatever piece of 3/4" plywood covering the end of the pit with the rolling side of the lift, with or without a support block in the pit, should work and let you get various engine carts to where they need to be. On the stationary side of the lift, access shouldn't be very different from using the lift on flat ground.

 

[shuie]

Awesome. Thanks again. Good info.

 

[TheWhiteMamba]

Well I went ahead and pulled the trigger on my lift and had it delivered yesterday.

First impressions: Man this thing got beat up just from Santa Paula to Bakersfield (~150 miles or so). Its hard to complain about scratches on something that most likely will be beat to sh!t within a few months, but still. Luckily they are just surface scratches at least and no huge dents or dings, but they are unsightly.

Arms are now yellow instead of black. Again not a huge deal but threw me off at first glance and will show oil quicker but I guess they are going for the blue/yellow color scheme now.

Along with the arms, only 1 M20 washer was supplied when there was supposed to be 2 per arm. Also the 90* fitting with the O-ring had been cut so I'll have to replace that O-ring. Again, not HUGE problems but still pains.

Lift Pucks are round when I originally thought they were square (but after seeing Vvmvbb's lift, I guess they have been round for a while.

Everything else looks to be good quality and after the leaking fluid issues are remedied, I am sure the lift will work out pretty good. I found that I can back up over the lift with plenty of clearance since all the issues were with the headers and pan in the front of my Chevelle. Hopefully that will eliminate the need for ramps before concrete work. I'll see if I can post any pics once the concrete adaptation begins.

 

[kderacing]

I'm considering this for my lift as well but I'm curious why you went as deep as you did. I was thinking about 6" which should be enough to leave the low pads on there and still cover it up with plywood. But I'm wondering if maybe there is some aspect I'm not thinking about here. Having more information on why you selected that depth would be helpful.

 

[Vvmvbb]

There were a few reasons for the depth.
- I didn't want it to be too shallow. That would be very bad so I erred on the side of deeper though 6" would have been fine.
- 7.25 let me use 2x8s for the form.
- 7.25 is cement-block size which was important for my 'getting the lift into the pit' plan: roll it onto bridges of blocks then remove the blocks (lever it up with breaker bars, remove blocks, lower it off the breaker bars...)
- 7.25 matched the height of something handy on the lift when it's down.

 

[kderacing]

There were a few reasons for the depth.
- I didn't want it to be too shallow. That would be very bad so I erred on the side of deeper though 6" would have been fine.
- 7.25 let me use 2x8s for the form.
- 7.25 is cement-block size which was important for my 'getting the lift into the pit' plan: roll it onto bridges of blocks then remove the blocks (lever it up with breaker bars, remove blocks, lower it off the breaker bars...)
- 7.25 matched the height of something handy on the lift when it's down.

Thanks for replying with this info it certainly helps. The one thing that makes this so challenging is that it would be expensive to "do it over" if you don't get it right the first time. Based on all of this I'm thinking 6 3/4" to allow for 3/4" plywood over the top with a ridge for it to sit on.

The other question I had though is if you do go that depth is there enough room to run the PVC for the hydraulic line or would it end up being too close to the surface? I know yours is deeper but if you could comment on how what diameter pipe you used and how much space there is between that and the surface of the concrete it would be extremely helpful.

Thanks again and sorry for so many questions. I want to get the floor poured in my outbuilding soon and I'm struggling to decide whether to have the pit poured or just keep using my ramps. The problem with the ramps is they make it harder to line up the car and then they are in the way when you're rolling around underneath the car.

 

[kderacing]

Sorry one more thing I just noticed in your pictures that you leave the riser plates without the truck adapters on. So was some of your goal to prevent having to switch between the lower lift plates and the ones with the adapters each time? Essentially I see now that you either add the truck adapters or not, but you never change the base piece that slides on over the arm is that correct?

 

[Vvmvbb]

Yes, that's exactly how I use it. I leave the riser on and the rubber pad off and on the deck when I cover the lift. A riser makes it easier to use, and it's the right height for the reasons mentioned. Wish I didn't even have to remove the pad- for me the less changing of things the better even though it's super easy.