Im looking to replace the pitman arm on my truck and where its at ive got no chance without a puller. Wondering if a full front end service kit would be worth it to a new tech or if im better off continuing with a hammer and maybe some pickle forks in the future?
Pitman arm puller vs front end kit
- Thread starter joman767
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zkdiesel
Well-known member
Hammer, air hammer, balljoint press and a pitman arm puller is all you need to do 90%
bcschief
Well-known member
All can be rented from autozone so why buy.
Nineeightyone
Well-known member
This assumes you can get to autozone when you need it
I'd buy the lineup zkdiesel suggested, so you have them on hand for the next time you need them for a job.
I've been meaning to buy a pitman arm puller for awhile. Not too many trucks still on the road, up in the rust belt, that still have a ball joint on the pitman arm. Few times I've needed one, I borrowed from a coworker.
The 2 adjustable jaw puller is something I'd also like to have. Which could make the kit worth buying.
But I'm on a tool buying freeze. No business due to the virus. Auto repair is considered "essential" and I'm still required to be at work 48 hrs, making nothing
The 2 adjustable jaw puller is something I'd also like to have. Which could make the kit worth buying.
But I'm on a tool buying freeze. No business due to the virus. Auto repair is considered "essential" and I'm still required to be at work 48 hrs, making nothing
bcschief
Well-known member
I've been meaning to buy a pitman arm puller for awhile. Not too many trucks still on the road, up in the rust belt, that still have a ball joint on the pitman arm. Few times I've needed one, I borrowed from a coworker.
The 2 adjustable jaw puller is something I'd also like to have. Which could make the kit worth buying.
But I'm on a tool buying freeze. No business due to the virus. Auto repair is considered "essential" and I'm still required to be at work 48 hrs, making nothing
Another reason to use Autozones loan a tool program
theoldwizard1
Well-known member
If you buy a pitman arm puller, make sure it is the kind has the side screws to keep the jaws/arms clamped in.
Don't expect it to pop right off ! Apply tension and hit the arm with a BHF ! Repeat. Heat even from a propane torch helps.
Don't expect it to pop right off ! Apply tension and hit the arm with a BHF ! Repeat. Heat even from a propane torch helps.
zkdiesel said:
Since the OP is a "new tech" he'll probably be seeing the other 10% at some point.
This assumes you can get to autozone when you need it
Also assumes going to autozone twice is free. Costs me 2 hours and 3 gallons of gas.
zkdiesel
Well-known member
Ya but other **** is more specialty and $$$
Throw then pickle fork away. Never use them, all assholes do with that is wrecks boots on parts they are not replacing but are dissembling
sberry
Banned
Go to hf and get what you need when you need it.
sberry
Banned
The forks have their place, I have a set can be driven air hammer too. A hf ball joint too, we'll worth it. Buy the things needed, if he ends up a specialist buy something better when needed.
I bought several discount items right when due to convenience and still use them decades later.
I bought several discount items right when due to convenience and still use them decades later.
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rsanter
Well-known member
A die grinder or cut off wheel used to notch the pitman arm before trying to remove it greatly reduces its holding power
Nobody who does this for a living is ever going to leave work to go rent a 20 dollar tool from autozone to finish a half hour job. The other tech you told about the loan a tool program would probably say the same.
Other than that, thanks for the opinions. Ill probably just get an air hammer, two jaw puller if needed, and a pitman arm puller
jimindm
Well-known member
Get the half circle one. Is designed for pitman arms, but works really well on a lot of tie rod ends.
I have a slew of pullers. As someone said most pitman arms are only found on pick ups or truck series platforms, any more. Many you have to sort of swing the steering box to be able to use them. I have a tight quarters snap on one. It is sort of flat and works off of leverage.
Likely made by others. I will see if I can find a link.
I have a slew of pullers. As someone said most pitman arms are only found on pick ups or truck series platforms, any more. Many you have to sort of swing the steering box to be able to use them. I have a tight quarters snap on one. It is sort of flat and works off of leverage.
Likely made by others. I will see if I can find a link.
SGKent
Banned
arm puller. Once it is tight hit the arm on two sides simultaneously with two hammers. It will release. Autozone will rent you one. Works on ball joints, pitman arm, etc..
Please, hammers have no place in the suspension work we are talking about. Just because internet/youtube hack mechanics use a hammer for everything doesn't mean they know what they are doing. There's a puller for everything and that's the only way to do it without damaging parts. OTC 6295 is a good starting set.
zkdiesel
Well-known member
Ha! Must be a guy who has done more reading and research than actual work
I guess he ain't read the Dodge Bn500 Vans FSM yet. Applying pressure with a jacking bolt then smacking the knuckle with a hammer is the factory balljoint popping procedure on those.
That said I've also seen "DO NOT HAMMER" in some FSMs, so OP should have something like the OTC kit as a minimum IMO.
sberry
Banned
That is reasonable, a couple uses and it's in the black. With the competition of the knockoff otc has kept a lid on some of the pricing.
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SGKent
Banned
the two hammer method has been used in professional shops for 75 years. Don't be an *** and flame if you don't understand how to use them correctly. You aren't using the hammers to beat on it, you are using the hammers to send a shock wave. The shock wave releases the taper without permanent damage. You won't even see where they were used. Even a puller can damage a joint or the boot. I use the most appropriate method which often includes a puller and shock wave. I also use a pickle fork when the part is already worn out.
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SGKent
Banned
I've pulled many pitman arms. They are usually taper threaded but with teeth, unlike a ball joint or tie rod. When the arm expands over the shaft when put on, it doesn't like to release because of the tension it has on the taper. Sometimes one has to load the pitman arm puller up with lots of pressure, and shock the arm with two hammers which doesn't put a load on the gearbox or gears. Or I guess some just beat on the end and bruise the gears inside. Same applies to a some relay arms. Some use heat but then the seal for sure has to be replaced which can require complete dis-assembly of the gearbox. The taper on the shaft can be seen below. The nut that pulls the arm on this shaft torques to 101 ft lbs. Sounds like a rifle shot when it releases.
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senlow
Well-known member
The above are words of wisdom. These are the techniques that competent professionals use.
Hmmmm, I guess I've just been lucky over the last 30 years replacing thousands of pitman arms, ball joints, tie rod ends etc. without beating on them with hammers.
The real words of wisdom are to buy high quality pullers and minimize the stretch in your puller assembly. Sometimes replacing long bolts with machined cylinders helps greatly. Do these two things and you won't have to beat on your suspension with hammers.
The real words of wisdom are to buy high quality pullers and minimize the stretch in your puller assembly. Sometimes replacing long bolts with machined cylinders helps greatly. Do these two things and you won't have to beat on your suspension with hammers.
impactsocket
Well-known member
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- Jan 9, 2014
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OTC 6295 Front End Service Set costs twice as much as the other brands.
How does the Ares, OEM Tools, and Power Built Front End Service Sets compare to the OTC?
How do the Chinese clones compare to the OTC?
How does the Ares, OEM Tools, and Power Built Front End Service Sets compare to the OTC?
How do the Chinese clones compare to the OTC?
OTC 6295 Front End Service Set costs twice as much as the other brands.
How does the Ares, OEM Tools, and Power Built Front End Service Sets compare to the OTC?
How do the Chinese clones compare to the OTC?
Thats a good question. I only own Snap-On, OTC, Kent-Moore, Rotunda pullers, so I don't really have any experience with "cheap" pullers other than watching other people use them.
I can tell you for sure though that the success of a puller is directly related to how good the metallurgy of it is and how much the legs or pulling components stretch or "compress".
Ive watched many people on youtube try to pull things apart unsuccessfully with cheap pullers and resort to beating on them with hammers.
I personally think that cheap pullers are what has caused the debate in this thread about hammering.
Just pay the extra money for a high quality puller. Make sure you use the correct size puller for the job. And take your time to set it up correctly and you wont have beat on it with a hammer.
FSrepair&fabrication
Well-known member
If its on a chevy/gmc gmt800 or gmt900 you CANT get a puller on the pitman arm without taking the bolts out of the steering box and twisting it back so you can get to it. Alot of the time ill just cut a slice in it with a cutoff wheel and knock it off with an air hammer.
The best tools for front end service are the snap on pickle fork bits for an air hammer, and a big sledgehammer. If youre replacing a part, screw the boot the new part comes with a new boot.
The best tools for front end service are the snap on pickle fork bits for an air hammer, and a big sledgehammer. If youre replacing a part, screw the boot the new part comes with a new boot.
vssjim
ALLIANCE MEMBER
SP Tools from California not the SP from Taiwan/Australia does have a a nice pitman arm puller to help getting those off in vehicle also.
FSrepair&fabrication
Well-known member
Do you have a link for that? Ive browsed the web before for one of those with no luck.
impactsocket
Well-known member
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- Jan 9, 2014
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OTC 6295 Front End Service Set is made in China now. OTC 6295 has only a 1 yr. warranty. What brands are considered high quality?
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