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Pitted anvil surface?

geologist

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One of my buddies brothers has an anvil. 125 pound Trenton. Unfortunately, the striking surface is pitted:

11054434_798170836904685_3526777039067573008_n.jpg


I'm wondering if it's salvageable, given the pitting?
 
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geologist

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https://scontent-lga.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/t31.0-8/10922279_798170803571355_1611039065498667488_o.jpg

https://scontent-lga.**.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/10559912_798170820238020_6286358034288438969_n.jpg?oh=b90c3539f5dafb45a5b48ac22dc0e119&oe=55BD07F4
 

zkling

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Depends what you are going to do with it, for me it would be pretty bad. How flat is the entire surface?
 
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geologist

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Depends what you are going to do with it, for me it would be pretty bad. How flat is the entire surface?

I haven't had a chance to check with a straight edge yet, but it didn't look bad at all, outside of the obvious pitting.

I'm not going to do any major blacksmithing, but it would be handy to have something to straighten out mower blades and such, and some minor metal shaping.
 

drivesitfar

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Geo: whatever you do don't use that anvil for cold metal pounding or you'll chip off those nice clean edges. you can use a pieced of RR track to do the lawnmower blades and cold steel pounding.

that pitting can be left and give projects some character flaws that some blacksmiths like because they are making vintage replacement parts. or somebody with a mill could take it down a few thousandths and make the top like new. or a belt sander has been known to be a fix. or sell it to me and i'll send you some cash and a hunk of RR track.

cheers
 
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geologist

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Geo: whatever you do don't use that anvil for cold metal pounding or you'll chip off those nice clean edges. you can use a pieced of RR track to do the lawnmower blades and cold steel pounding.

that pitting can be left and give projects some character flaws that some blacksmiths like because they are making vintage replacement parts. or somebody with a mill could take it down a few thousandths and make the top like new. or a belt sander has been known to be a fix. or sell it to me and i'll send you some cash and a hunk of RR track.

cheers

I was wondering if it could be milled, that's the kicker. I've got a piece of track for a railroad anvil, so I'll save that for the mower blades. I just wanted to make sure it's good and useable before I do some horse trading with him. Now lets hope she has a good ring.
 

drivesitfar

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Geo: do you own any steel ball bearings? if you have a 3/4 or 1 inch one they work best, but smaller ones will give you an idea. just drop it from about 10 inches above the top of the anvil onto the top and if it bounces back almost all the way to your hand it's a keeper. if it bounces up 6 inches its still a good anvil and less is not as good.

probably wouldn't hurt it hitting with a hammer, but not advisable.

good luck
 
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geologist

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There's presently another suitor, but if he doesn't show, it's mine if I want it. I'm hoping he passes. I cannibalized a 1" steel ball from a 1" ball castor from Chiwon Harbor.
 

Mohawk Dave

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That will mill out just fine for 99% of us. A Blanchard Grinder will work too. One of us on GJ used a Blanchard on his...in AZ I think...

I got a 250# Trenton. Good anvil. Does what it is supposed to.

And like someone else said, a belt sander will work. Won't be perfect, but I doubt you're building space shuttles. And besides, you could always mill later.

And if you do smack cold, do in the center over the mass...not the edge.

AND...you can always get a new hard plate put on if you ever ran into a person/company that hooks you up.

Lots of guys will weld up the face/edges with 1018. Not the hardest, but still lasts a long time and you can always touch up again.
 

leg17

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DO NOT mill it or blanchard grind it.
You need to retain as much of the top plate as possible.
Simple power sand the top as smooth as you need it.
It does NOT have to be 'flat'.
Just smooth.
 
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