Pivoting mailbox build

[fourjeepin]

So I live on a busy street and have never liked the mailbox that came with the house (white vinyl post with a missing cap). I looked at Google images for hours trying to find a design I like, but couldn't do it. I then contemplated a brick double ended box for about a year, but my masonry skills are not the best and I didn't want to spend hours in the road building a marginal looking brick box.

Now the house did come with a basketball goal on a 4x4 steel post. Said goal was not usable after PO built my shop right in front of it. So I decided to use this as the visible portion of the mailbox post. I didn't get any pictures of the during process of building the post as there is nothing fancy here - cut, remove rust/paint, weld.

One shot of the welds. I don't think I got the material quite clean enough. Any other feedback is welcome.

 

[fourjeepin]

So last post gave the story behind the mail box post and showed the basic piece. Here it is with the end caps and acorn placed on the post. I plan to glue them on with construction adhesive as they are cast iron.

These cast pieces came from King Metals and represent the entirety of the financial investment I have in the post thus far. Approx $20

 

[csp]

Where does the pivoting in the thread title come into play?

 

[fourjeepin]

Next up was the key to the pivoting post - an old Timken bearing and race removed from my CJ. This will be just under the acorn at the top of the post. I figure the bearing can handle <100 lbs and 3 revolutions per week for the next 30 years.

The race was welded to a piece of plate cut from the basketball goal post. And the bearing welded to a piece of Jeep roll bar. The tubing was a perfect fit to slide in an old fence post. The fence post is 2-3/8 OD, at least 1/8" wall.

The bearing was welded to the rollbar vs. directly to the fence post only because I didn't trust myself to not weld the rollers to the post. The smaller tubing gave me room to weld and the bearing spins freely.

Last photo is the top of the post with the plate mocked up. The bearing race is welded to the underside of this plate (note heat coloring). I guess I didn't get a picture of this plate welded in.

 

[fourjeepin]

Next to be built is/was the bottom of the post. I cut a plate of 1/4" to fit Into the bottom of the 4x4 post. Then drilled a hole for the fence post to slip through. I have not welded this piece in yet as I am unsure if there is a better way to do this.

Should I look for a non-tapered bearing 2-3/8 ID to accept this post? Or will the rubbing not be a problem based on 3 low speed revolutions per week?


After this dilemma is sorted out and Christmas has passed, I will get back to this project. The plan is to bury a piece of HEAVY fence post as deep as I can and surround it with a bag or two of concrete. This post is 1/4" wall, 2-1/2 ID and will accept the 2-3/8'OD post that the mailbox will ride on.

I plan to cut a can or something to shim the difference between the ID of the larger post and the OD of the smaller.


Any feedback on this plan is welcome or if another bearing is recommended. If another bearing is recommended, type/source assistance would be great.

 

[fourjeepin]

Whoops - forgot to include the last photo. This is the bottom of the mailbox post.

 

[fourjeepin]

Where does the pivoting in the thread title come into play?

Sorry, but I am a little slow in posting as I use Tapatalk and my iPad. Unsure how others do this, but there is probably a better way. I hope it is clear now.

 

[TNToy]

Your welds are porous enough that I'd have ground them out and laid new ones.

How is the machine set up - wire, shielding gas, etc?

 

[PugetDude]

Your welds are porous enough that I'd have ground them out and laid new ones.

It's a mailbox post, not a nuclear reactor.

 

[tymbo]

It's a mailbox post, not a nuclear reactor.

 

[2oolhound]

You don't really need bearings for this kind of thing. Steel on steel will revolve as long as the end cuts are even and smooth. There's nothing wrong with using bearings though and it looks pretty funny to see bearing races welded into place. As for the bottom I'd say no bearings are needed. I don't think you'll need to shim anything either, it doesn't look like there's too much slop in there.

I was thinking you could add a grease ****** to the inside top plate where grease could feed the bearing cone but then you'd have to make the acorn cap removable. I guess you can just lift the whole thing off the post every 10 years and manually lube it too.

Are you expecting heavier than usual mail deliveries in the future?

 

[f150skidoo]

Your welds are porous enough that I'd have ground them out and laid new ones.

How is the machine set up - wire, shielding gas, etc?

I was thinking the same thing, looks like he need another 5 cfh of sheilding.

 

[fourjeepin]

Your welds are porous enough that I'd have ground them out and laid new ones.

How is the machine set up - wire, shielding gas, etc?

Machine is a Millermatic 185. 0.30 wire with gas. I have considered taking a MIG class as I frequently have porosity issues.

 

[fourjeepin]

It's a mailbox post, not a nuclear reactor.

LOL! Well done, Puget Dude

 

[fourjeepin]

You don't really need bearings for this kind of thing. Steel on steel will revolve as long as the end cuts are even and smooth. There's nothing wrong with using bearings though and it looks pretty funny to see bearing races welded into place. As for the bottom I'd say no bearings are needed. I don't think you'll need to shim anything either, it doesn't look like there's too much slop in there.

I was thinking you could add a grease ****** to the inside top plate where grease could feed the bearing cone but then you'd have to make the acorn cap removable. I guess you can just lift the whole thing off the post every 10 years and manually lube it too.

Are you expecting heavier than usual mail deliveries in the future?

Thanks for the feedback on the design. I agree that it should be fine without any type of bearing at the bottom and went ahead and burned in the bottom plate. 1/2 revolution per day, 6 days per week, 52 weeks per year, and if I live another 40 years, that's still only 6k revolutions. I would hope that bearing could do that even without any grease.

Heavy mail! That's another good one that made me laugh! I am not expecting any heavy mail, just using what I had laying around. So far, the only materials I have purchased for this is the acorn top and the two ends. These were like $15 bucks from King Metals.

 

[fourjeepin]

Very little progress to report on this project (been working in doors on finish a room in the basement). No pictures, but I did burn in the bottom plate (twice, first time I forgot to insert the rod with the bearing doh!). And my wife picked a color scheme, so I buy the new box and weld up a bottom base for it.

 

[tractordude]

Is the fan blowing air at the weld area?

 

[KMinAF]

I don't understand the need for the pivot. Is it in case someone runs into it?

 

[sb7979]

I don't know what the laws are where you live, but here the largest steel mailbox post you're allowed to have is I think 1 1/2" or 2" pipe, and the largest wood post is a 4" x 4". This is due to the fact that it is on the right-of-way of the road and they think anything bigger could hurt someone if they happened to hit it.
You may want to check it out before you install it. Just saying. There was a time when the county came around and removed anyone's mailbox that didn't meet the regulation.

EDIT: Here's the regulations where I live....see item #2 on the second page.
https://www.co.lucas.oh.us/DocumentCenter/Home/View/769

 

[jkeyser14]

You don't really need bearings for this kind of thing. Steel on steel will revolve as long as the end cuts are even and smooth.

Not after it rusts together

 

[fourjeepin]

Re: Home Depot Clearance Thread 2015

I don't understand the need for the pivot. Is it in case someone runs into it?

I live on a fairly busy street and would like to spin the mailbox around so I can check it in my driveway vs. standing in the road. Many of my neighbors have moved theirs to the backside of the sidewalk. This works, but the mail truck leaves trenches in the strip of grass between the street and sidewalk.

It was either this or a double ended box. I thought for a long time about building a brick box, but my masonry skills are not that great so I would be in the road for HOURS building a brick box.

 

[fourjeepin]

Re: Home Depot Clearance Thread 2015

I don't know what the laws are where you live, but here the largest steel mailbox post you're allowed to have is I think 1 1/2" or 2" pipe, and the largest wood post is a 4" x 4". This is due to the fact that it is on the right-of-way of the road and they think anything bigger could hurt someone if they happened to hit it.
You may want to check it out before you install it. Just saying. There was a time when the county came around and removed anyone's mailbox that didn't meet the regulation.

EDIT: Here's the regulations where I live....see item #2 on the second page.
https://www.co.lucas.oh.us/DocumentCenter/Home/View/769

I have a neighbor a few houses over that also has their box on a 4x4 steel post. Theirs probably doesn't have 50 lbs bs of pipe inside it though
Also MANY neighbors with brick boxes. I don't think there are any laws regarding the heft of my box. GA is not a nanny state and neither is my county or city.

 

[Bondo]

I have considered taking a MIG class as I frequently have porosity issues.
Next up was the key to the pivoting post - an old Timken bearing and race removed from my CJ. This will be just under the acorn at the top of the post. I figure the bearing can handle <100 lbs and 3 revolutions per week for the next 30 years.

Ayuh,.... Something else ya might learn in weldin' class,....

Bearin' steel won't hold a weld,....

Expect the bearin' to shatter, right at the weld, on the bearin' side of the weld,....

I built a mailbox post by drivin' an 8', 1" rebar 4' into the ground, 'n slippin' the box tube post down over it,....

It got hit by a car a couple years ago, so I replaced the 1" rebar, with an 1, 1/2" axle shaft,....

I walk into the road to get the mail,...
The idea of it swivelin', is to lessen the snowplow impact damage,...

 

[gungatim]

when I was a teen, I hit a mailbox with my car. it was like yours, heavy steel pipe filled with concrete. totaled the car, did not hurt the post. the homeowner had to remove the post, and I was contacted by the police and a lawyer. I did not sue, but just warning you that if you have a dangerous post like that and someone hits it and gets hurt, you are liable. don't recall if it was code, state, or local law or what (was a long time ago) but suffice it to say, everyone on my street with non-standard mailbox posts like that removed them due to liability...just sayin'...

 

[saceone]

when I was a teen, I hit a mailbox with my car. it was like yours, heavy steel pipe filled with concrete. totaled the car, did not hurt the post. the homeowner had to remove the post, and I was contacted by the police and a lawyer. I did not sue, but just warning you that if you have a dangerous post like that and someone hits it and gets hurt, you are liable. don't recall if it was code, state, or local law or what (was a long time ago) but suffice it to say, everyone on my street with non-standard mailbox posts like that removed them due to liability...just sayin'...

lol

 

[ilovevocs]

Nice build.

My .02..

The welds will work just fine; don't be afraid to throw some body filler on them before paint.

I have been considering building a similar box without the pivot and my plan was to pour concrete and install the box with smaller 1/4" drop in anchors to create a point of failure in the event it was hit.

The speed limit on my road is 25 mph as well. If someone gets injured hitting my mailbox they deserve to loose their license.

Funny thing about the post size BS is that the fire hydrant 5 feet from my mailbox has allot more mass. They seem to have a failure point designed into them as well though.

I hit one when I was a kid.

 

[gungatim]

Nice build.

My .02..

The welds will work just fine; don't be afraid to throw some body filler on them before paint.

I have been considering building a similar box without the pivot and my plan was to pour concrete and install the box with smaller 1/4" drop in anchors to create a point of failure in the event it was hit.

The speed limit on my road is 25 mph as well. If someone gets injured hitting my mailbox they deserve to loose their license.

Funny thing about the post size BS is that the fire hydrant 5 feet from my mailbox has allot more mass. They seem to have a failure point designed into them as well though.

I hit one when I was a kid.

that may be, but the law looks at it differently. When I hit the box it was clearly my fault, but anything placed in the right of way (center of road to 30 ft) that is more dangerous than need be makes you liable. we had people in our neighborhood who had landscape boulders outlining their yard around their corner lot. city made the owners remove them (they had been there for decades) after a car hit them one winter...

it's unfortunate that society has come to this, I just wanted to warn the OP. some drunk idiot gets killed cuz they slammed into his steel mailbox pole and their spouse decides to take you for everything you are worth is not a story I would wish on anyone...

 

[Griff93]

I think I have mailbox envy. Nice job!

 

[firemanast]

Looks great job well done !

 

[KMinAF]

Maybe we should start a "mailbox build" thread. All of the sudden mine is looking kind of out dated.

 

[dodgejunkie]

I had some disgruntled former employees that enjoyed breaking my mail box post regularly! I built one just like yours without the swivel! It served it purpose, and they didn't attempt to mow it down after it brought their car to a sudden stop! That said, the police made me take it down.

I've seen numerous swiveling, or flexible mail boxes out on country roads so you might be fine with your design!

 

[fourjeepin]

Thanks for the feedback Dodge. I still, plan to complete the build, but am now thinking I won't drive the post down 4' and anchor with a few hundred pounds of concrete. Maybe just driving the pole in (no concrete) will allow it to come out if struck by a car and keep me out of trouble with the law.

 

[fourjeepin]

Long overdue, but here is the installed product (from May 2016)

 

[WoodsTruck]

Long overdue, but here is the installed product (from May 2016)

Ironic... we are still waiting.

 

[fourjeepin]

I am revisiting this thread to refresh my memory on the construction as after 9+ years, I got a complaint.


I initially thought to just ignore it, but then decided to add a spring plunger. First thought one like this,



but now considering either


or

 

[ArcReactorKC]

As I am inherently lazy I would probably work with some type of spring plunger that I could attach a foot pedal to so I could press down with my foot and swivel.

 

[Gutman]

Aahh. The wheels of the bureaucratic machine turn slooowwly.

Good build thread. Thanks for resurfacing it and updating it.

I live on a small private road with a small court at our end of the road. It's probably not up to the size/design standards and my mailman is able to turn around if he hugs the edge and slowly drives the perimeter of the court.

Most folks who make the mistake of driving down the road end up making 7 or 8 point turns trying to turn around.

Having said that, the original owner built a very nice brick work at the 3 o'clock position immediately on the edge of the court. It incorporates a mailbox, a plastic newspaper tube, and a small brick wall 'corral' that I assume was meant to hold 2-3 trash cans; the old metal ones, as the current roller trash bins won't fit thru the beautiful brickwork threshold.

Long story short, my actual mailbox is on a 4 x 4 post just up the road off the court, and we assume the postmaster general of the world decided that the brickwork checks some of the checkboxes on your citation and is the explanation for our actual mailbox. Idk. One more of the mysteries of our property.

We actually roll the trash bin to the court at the head of the road, about 400 yards away after watching the the trash man trying a 20 pointer.

I'm trying to come up with a solution to repurpose this colossal brick masterpiece in place.

It makes a great cover position with a great field of fire to cover hostiles that would be coming down the road but wife said no. It'll probably become a raised bed planter of some sort, as long as I don't trigger another of the checkboxes.

 

[Beerhippie]

Machine is a Millermatic 185. 0.30 wire with gas. I have considered taking a MIG class as I frequently have porosity issues.

Did you open the side lid and look for the welding table?

Our Millermatic 120 has this:



It'll get you in the ballpark.

I don't know what the laws are where you live, but here the largest steel mailbox post you're allowed to have is I think 1 1/2" or 2" pipe, and the largest wood post is a 4" x 4". This is due to the fact that it is on the right-of-way of the road and they think anything bigger could hurt someone if they happened to hit it.
You may want to check it out before you install it. Just saying. There was a time when the county came around and removed anyone's mailbox that didn't meet the regulation.

EDIT: Here's the regulations where I live....see item #2 on the second page.
https://www.co.lucas.oh.us/DocumentCenter/Home/View/769

If someone hits my mailbox, the post will be the least of their worries--except for where I insert it.

 

[fourjeepin]

Did you open the side lid and look for the welding table?

I taped a copy of it to the top of the machine so it is readily available.

 

[Beerhippie]

I taped a copy of it to the top of the machine so it is readily available.

I have a picture of mine on my computer "desktop". Not always using the welder where I can open that side cover.