Plain Jane Garage

[EEErik]

I have a 20 x 20 standard truss detached garage that needs some love. I bought the house a year ago and am finally getting to the garage as I need to organize my tools so I dont go crazy soon. Hoping to make a small garage build but it will not be anything special like some crazy people are doing here.

First step first I need to remove all the vinyl siding so I can put plywood sheeting and a vapor barrier over that on the outside of the garage then put the siding back on. After all that is done I am looking to insulate and drywall. I am pretty handy but just do not know what to do. Garage is unconditioned and may get a heater if I ran a gas line to it.

I am pretty sure I can just use faced batt insulation stapled to the walls and then drywall over. As for the ceiling I am lost how to do it correctly. I have no roof vent on the roof. I just want to put drywall on the bottom of the trusses. Do i need a vapor barrier on the ceiling? Do i used faced or unfaced batt insulation and if an attic is created by sealing the bottom of the trusses do i need to add a roof vent? Any other tips to think about would be great before I get started.

 

[dave_dj1]

Well, you definitely want a vapor barrier if you are going to heat the space. Yes, typically faced fiberglass batts are a sufficient barrier.
I always drywall the ceilings first, then the walls.
If you are worried about venting, you will want to do the following: Use a product called prop-a-vent at the eaves, you may have to cut in some vents in the soffets, then you will either need gable end vents (probably your easiest solution) or a continuous ridge vent. It has to breath. Post up some pictures of the eaves and attic area if you want.
Are you saying the vinyl siding is applied right to the studs with no sheathing?
You really don't need the plywood if you don't want it. I've seen vinyl applied over novelty siding on garages where the novelty siding was nailed directly to the studs but I have never seen just vinyl but then again I lead a sheltered life.

This may help: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/all-about-attic-venting

 

[finn]

The vapor barrier goes on thr conditioned side of the wall, not between the siding and the plywood. Use a permeable product, like Tyvek or equivalent between the siding and plywood.

Use faced fiberglass bats for the vapor barrier, under the drywall.

What is the truss spacing? You may need something to screw the Sheetrock to if the truss spacing is excessive.

 

[matt_i]

Do your electrical and gas pipe/line before you even pick up the first bag of insulation.

If you don't have a ridge vent, you can remove the cap shingles, cut open the ridge with a circular saw, and go back with ridge vent and new cap shingles. Not too bad of a job on a lower pitch (6:12 or lower) roof. Of course you will also need soffit venting to match...

 

[EEErik]

Are you saying the vinyl siding is applied right to the studs with no sheathing?
You really don't need the plywood if you don't want it. I've seen vinyl applied over novelty siding on garages where the novelty siding was nailed directly to the studs but I have never seen just vinyl but then again I lead a sheltered life.

The vinyl siding is nailed over wood siding which is nailed over like the 1/4" cardboard stuff that goes on the back of cheap bookcases. I want to get the layers off and seal it up as the bottom of the wall you can see daylight.

 

[EEErik]

What is the truss spacing? You may need something to screw the Sheetrock to if the truss spacing is excessive.

Truss spacing is 4ft. I will have to add 2x4s perpendicular to the trusses to screw into. Ill post up some picks once I have better lighting.

 

[finn]

1”x4” strapping is what I used. A 2”x4” is overkill and thinner strapping is lighter, so less weight suspended from the lower truss cord.

White steel roofing would be lighter and won’t need strapping, plus it works well in an unheated structure.

 

[6768rogues]

In a cold climate, a vapor barrier goes as close to the heated side of the wall as possible. Never outside of the insulation. In the deep south, it is a different situation.

 

[dusterdude]

What if you have both?

Sent from my R1 HD using Tapatalk

 

[EEErik]

White steel roofing would be lighter and won’t need strapping, plus it works well in an unheated structure.

I would do metal but I am worried about the sound effect as I think a metal ceiling at like 8ft and a concrete floor will just be an echo chamber.

 

[EEErik]

Outside of Garage. Trying to remove all of the siding and resheet since nothing is there to start with.

95% of the tools are moved out in prep to actually make this a usable space. Just trying to find the time and where to start....

 

[finn]

I would do metal but I am worried about the sound effect as I think a metal ceiling at like 8ft and a concrete floor will just be an echo chamber.

I have two buildings with metal ceilings.

Noise is not an issue.

I frequently read scare theories about potential noise issues with metal, but have never heard anyone that actually has one complain about a noise issue.

 

[EEErik]

I have two buildings with metal ceilings.

Noise is not an issue.

I frequently read scare theories about potential noise issues with metal, but have never heard anyone that actually has one complain about a noise issue.

Anyone every use plastic roofing panels? It would be out of the sun so probably would not discolor. Also covering the wall in plastic panels or metal would be way better than drywall and way less hassle since no mudding. Any insight?

 

[meboatermike]

Is the wood siding warped at the bottom or it just doesn't come down to your 2x plate in places where you can see daylight?

How many areas can you see the daylight at the bottom like you showed in the picture?

How many areas have the fiberboard like materiel torn up?

I would not take the vinyl siding off if I could get away with it (that is a lot of work to just put it back on). If the wood siding under the vinyl at the bottom of the wall is not warped I would add a pressure treated board or pressure treated plywood (ripped to size) to close up the gap you can see and then add a row of vinyl at the bottom if necessary. I would not worry about the torn up fiberboard.

You need to install a vapor barrier on the inside of the stud wall either when you insulate the wall or after you insulate. Then the wall will dry to the outside (in Ohio) if you heat your garage.

 

[EEErik]

Is the wood siding warped at the bottom or it just doesn't come down to your 2x plate in places where you can see daylight?

How many areas can you see the daylight at the bottom like you showed in the picture?

How many areas have the fiberboard like materiel torn up?

I would not take the vinyl siding off if I could get away with it (that is a lot of work to just put it back on). If the wood siding under the vinyl at the bottom of the wall is not warped I would add a pressure treated board or pressure treated plywood (ripped to size) to close up the gap you can see and then add a row of vinyl at the bottom if necessary. I would not worry about the torn up fiberboard.

You need to install a vapor barrier on the inside of the stud wall either when you insulate the wall or after you insulate. Then the wall will dry to the outside (in Ohio) if you heat your garage.

Really on just one side of the garage is there a gap on the bottom. The wood siding just does not come down all the way to the bottom so there is a gap. I want to remove it though because I am worried about moisture damage and covering up mold. I do not want to have problems in the future. The two sides where the gutters are is where the moisture damage is. I can leave the back wall as it seems tight and damage free. I know its a project but I want it done right the first time.

 

[Ben Buck]

EERICK, what part of Ohio

 

[EEErik]

EERICK, what part of Ohio

Cleveland area

 

[Ben Buck]

Oh, ok- thought I could help you if local ?

I'm in Englewood

 

[Dragfluid]

Many of us here have steel ceiling panels. I've never seen anyone complain about them, and I certainly have no regrets.

 

[James-W]

Anyone every use plastic roofing panels? It would be out of the sun so probably would not discolor. Also covering the wall in plastic panels or metal would be way better than drywall and way less hassle since no mudding. Any insight?

Plastic panels on the roof and/or on the walls? I never heard of such a thing.

Installing drywall is not a problem to anyone who has worked with it before. A big advantage to it is that if you damage it, it can be repaired easily.

 

[EEErik]

Oh, ok- thought I could help you if local ?

I'm in Englewood

Thats like a three hour drive.

 

[EEErik]

Many of us here have steel ceiling panels. I've never seen anyone complain about them, and I certainly have no regrets.

Awesome, I think I will just use steel. Anyone use anything other than white on the walls? I was looking maybe some grey or red to give it some color. Dont know how much that would change light reflection.

Plastic panels on the roof and/or on the walls? I never heard of such a thing.

Installing drywall is not a problem to anyone who has worked with it before. A big advantage to it is that if you damage it, it can be repaired easily.

If you search home depot you can find corrugated plastic roof panels, same thing as the metal ones only plastic.