Plan of Attack

[CastleSeven]

Hello Garage Experts,

I'm wanting to build a 30'x40' detached garage in my backyard, but I'm having trouble getting out of the gate. I've all but decided to be my own general contractor and framer, and subcontracting out concrete work, roofing, and a bit of masonry.

Problem is, I don't know how to get started. I have spotted some generic plans I liked online (Garage Plan Shop #1, 84 Lumber Plan #1, 84 Lumber Plan #2). But I'd want to make a few tweaks to give me more storage space in the attic, maybe have some plumbing, etc.

Who provides these modification services? Normally it would just be the contractor that handles the modifications with his own engineer/architect. Do you just find a local engineer or architect to sit down with? When I search "Builders" locally, I get hits for people building big fancy houses. Are these the people I'd sit down with to modify plans for my rather simple garage?

Who does site plans to show existing structures, property boundaries, etc? A site plan is required by my LBC.

Who does the grading prior to the concrete pour? And is that a separate plan that generally needs done?

How much "translation" does the GC usually do? For example, when the concrete guy comes do I just hand him my plans and say "have at it"? Does the same go for the mason and the roofer and the plumber? Obviously I would oversee everything and make sure things are being done how I want them, but I've never done anything like this so I'm unsure what's expected from subcontractor interactions.

Apologies for the ignorance, I just want an overview of everything before I jump in.

 

[Mattlt]

First off, please put your location in your user profile. That will help determine what kind of snow load / wind loads / etc you have to deal with in your area.

My first suggestion would be to go visit a local lumber yard. Not a big box store - a mom and pop lumber yard. Let them know what you'd like, and how much (if any) of the work you'd like to do yourself. Many will point you in the direction of reputable contractors in your area. Many also provide design and engineering services to get you what you want. Yes, you will pay for it. Again, it all depends on how much you want to do on your own.

 

[bczygan]

Welcome to GJ!

If you want a really good result, the guy in charge needs to know almost as much about the trades as the tradesmen.
Sounds like you need an experienced ally.

Like most people, you are starting with the building.

Good planning starts with existing conditions and needed functions.

Tell us everything about your lot and what you want to be able to do.

First, where are you?
What is your zoning, and zoning rules?
What is the size and layout of the lot and all the existing utilities, buildings, trees, paving, grade conditions, surrounding lots and buildings?

What functions do you want to accommodate? Make a list.

Bill (Designer/Planner)

 

[CastleSeven]

Thanks guys for the advice so far. Some more info:

1. In Bowling Green, KY (updated in profile now). As far as I know from looking at the codes, my county has a frost depth of 24", snow load is 15psf, 3.29in rainfall intensity. Couldn't find the details on wind load...
2. Zoning is R-E (Residentail-Estate). Zoning Rules (setbacks, accessory structure, etc) for my county can be found here (http://warrenpc.org/zoning_ordinance/pdf/Article4_May2013.pdf).
3. Lot is 1.006 acres. I've attached a top-down of the lot, and indicated in black the rough area of the build (not to scale). Backyard is pretty flat, front yard has a slope. Not sure what other specifics I can do for grade conditions beyond that?
Image too big to embed - Look here: http://i.imgur.com/NlBfBTB.jpg?1


4. The little driveway offshoot would be extended to the garage.

Functions to accomodate:
- I won't be doing anything with heavy lifts, so I don't think I need any super crazy footers for the foundation.
- Mainly woodshop, motorcycle work, storage, beer brewing, some welding, etc. Storage in the attic as well, so frames to accomodate that while also matching the pitch of my house.
- If it matters, I'd want to run Cat 6 from the house to the garage, and put in some basic plumbing.
- Also, not 100% decided on this, I might extend the concrete back another 5 - 10' to build an outside dog kennel. Maybe.

Thanks again!

 

[nolimits76]

A major concern -- do you have an HOA in your neighborhood, and if so, what additional rules and regulations do the covenants require? These are typically for the "beauty" of the neighborhood and have ruined many garage dreams of guys.

The HOA or local codes will determine (to an extent) how detailed a set of plans you require. It really varies. I have a friend building a lake house now and there are no requirements (other than his). I've read others having to jump through hoops and have official engineer/architect stamps on all their drawings. A large majority is something in between those two extremes.

In general, it's a good idea to have a set of detailed plans that can be used for bidding purposes and to show clear intention of your desired outcome. Around here, you occasionally see signs for "CAD designers" that will draw up your plans for a pretty modest fee...$500 to $1,000. This can be a good solution, as long as structural items are checked by an engineer.

Playing GC can save you money, but will also consume a considerable amount of your time and require a fairly in-depth knowledge of the trades you are trying to coordinate. Also, sometimes, different subcontractors will give "preferred" pricing to general contractors that bring them repeat business vs the one-shot wonder. So it may be beneficial to do a cost analysis both ways. The savings difference may not be that much different. FWIW, I work in construction management and hired a GC to build my last house because I just didn't have the time for the day-to-day "babysitting" of subs and suppliers. If you work a full time job yourself, this may also prove difficult for you, depending on your flexibility to be on-site vs in your office.

 

[Deception]

Since you're in Bowling Green I would give extra consideration to sink holes. j/k

Im GC'ing my own small project right now, but all the tradesmen are close friends or relatives so I havent had to worry about much.

 

[bczygan]

Hello Garage Experts,

I'm wanting to build a 30'x40' detached garage in my backyard, but I'm having trouble getting out of the gate. I've all but decided to be my own general contractor and framer, and subcontracting out concrete work, roofing, and a bit of masonry.

Problem is, I don't know how to get started. I have spotted some generic plans I liked online (Garage Plan Shop #1, 84 Lumber Plan #1, 84 Lumber Plan #2). But I'd want to make a few tweaks to give me more storage space in the attic, maybe have some plumbing, etc.

Who provides these modification services? Normally it would just be the contractor that handles the modifications with his own engineer/architect. Do you just find a local engineer or architect to sit down with? When I search "Builders" locally, I get hits for people building big fancy houses. Are these the people I'd sit down with to modify plans for my rather simple garage?

Who does site plans to show existing structures, property boundaries, etc? A site plan is required by my LBC.

Who does the grading prior to the concrete pour? And is that a separate plan that generally needs done?

How much "translation" does the GC usually do? For example, when the concrete guy comes do I just hand him my plans and say "have at it"? Does the same go for the mason and the roofer and the plumber? Obviously I would oversee everything and make sure things are being done how I want them, but I've never done anything like this so I'm unsure what's expected from subcontractor interactions.

Apologies for the ignorance, I just want an overview of everything before I jump in.

To get a permit, you will need a set of construction drawings. This will probably include plot plan, floor plan, elevation(s), a section and indications of any plumbing, electrical and heating (Those can be indicated on the floor plan). Some places want separate foundation and framing plans. For a garage, I can usually indicate headers, trusses and rafters and joists on the plan, and foundations on the building section. Check with your building authority to be sure. Some places want certain scales for different parts of the drawings. Check this. Building department should have a set of drawing standards.

You can pay bigger bucks with an architect or engineer or get a designer to draw them up. This does depend if you must have sealed drawings.

Builders will sometimes have staff who can do this, or know someone. Check lumber yards too. They may have a guy.


Bill (Designer)

 

[bczygan]

But before you are ready for a drawing, let's do some more planning.

DO NOT START WITH A BUILDING!

Take a sheet of paper and start making a list of the functions you listed above, and any others you can think of, for now or the future.

Next, make subdivisions of each function.
For instance, woodshop. The sub functions of that might be wood storage, then machine stations for jointing, planing, bandsawing, table sawing, drilling , assembly and finishing.
Sub functions to those might be space for jigs and fixtures, clamps, hand tools, sanding supplies and equipment, painting supplies etc.
After you flesh out these lists with functions and sub functions, you need to relate the functions to each other. In the woodshop example above, I've already listed things in the order they might occur in. This flow needs a physical route in the shop, so things move efficiently.
So you need connections between functions, but also ways to separate them. Painting and grinding/welding need ways to block themselves off.
So do a rough layout. Cut out little scale drawings of the machinery and functional areas needed, and arrange them with flow. Now you can draw lines around the functions that need separation. REMEMBER, WE STILL ARE NOT WORKING WITHIN A BUILDING. DO NOT DRAW ANY EXTERIOR WALLS!
Once you have done this with all the functions the building is going to house, you now have the needed area and general layout of the required building.
Only now, can you draw lines around the whole assemblage, and find out how big your building is.

More to come.

 

[bczygan]

After the above exercise, it is time to look at the existing residence for design clues.

BTW, did you say a lift was in the plan? What is the biggest and tallest vehicle you might ever bring into this space?

And do you have a place designated for lawn care equipment, bicycles and general overflow storage from the house? I recommend that these functions be separate from the shop functions. So if they are part of the garage structure, they need walls and access from outside might also be good.

Do you intend year round use, insulation, heating and cooling?

Bill

Next, thoughts about elevation, detailing, windows, lighting and electrical.

 

[CastleSeven]

After the above exercise, it is time to look at the existing residence for design clues.

BTW, did you say a lift was in the plan? What is the biggest and tallest vehicle you might ever bring into this space?

And do you have a place designated for lawn care equipment, bicycles and general overflow storage from the house? I recommend that these functions be separate from the shop functions. So if they are part of the garage structure, they need walls and access from outside might also be good.

Do you intend year round use, insulation, heating and cooling?

Bill

Next, thoughts about elevation, detailing, windows, lighting and electrical.

No lifts needed. The biggest vehicle I have at the moment is a 2500 Chevy Silverado. I'm thinking a 9' door (if feasible) might do me for future vehicles? What do you think?

I'm toying with the idea of a lean-to off the back (enclosed) with garden shed double doors for storing the riding mower and other lawn equipment. I agree, I'd rather it not be part of the shop. I'd have to take this into consideration when the foundation is poured.

I do intend to use it year-round. My father-in-law has his insulated and uses a wood stove or kerosene heater to warm it up. I'm thinking the same would probably suit me.