Planer for interior doors?

[motoguy]

I'm replacing about a half-dozen interior doors at my house. I'm replacing them with the ~$25 Reliabilt hollow-core molded composite doors from Lowe's. Yeah, I know they're not solid-oak custom made gems, but throw a white coat of paint on them, and they look just fine in my house. This is a starter house on a small lot near town, not a "retire in it" house on a large chunk of acreage.

The new doors I picked up are about 1/8" wider than the old doors. I need to shave just a fuzz off the edges of the new doors, in a way that maintains a decent straight line and surface finish. I've already experimented with my table saw, as well as a circular saw with a guide bar, and those are definitely not acceptable.

As such, I'm looking at picking up an electric hand planer. I'm not regularly a woodworker nor do I plan on becoming one. As such, I don't need a "last me a lifetime of daily woodworking" type of tool. Just one that will be reliable enough, and durable enough, for occasionally homeowner use. Still, I am value oriented, so I'd just as soon not throw my $$ away at something that's a total pile of ****.

What would you all suggest as an economical electric planer for infrequent homeowner use? The reviews I've found of the Ryobi unit seem to be good, and $70 isn't a bad pill to swallow.

Also, will these "wood edges with pressed fiberboard shells" type of doors be ok for a planer? I'll be shaving the edges of the doors. The planer will be digesting about a 1.5" wide section...1/8" of fiber board on the edges, and 1.25" of wood in the middle.

 

[A_Pmech]

Yes, I've done it many times.

The only thing to beware of is that the planer should have carbide blades installed. Fiberboard is abrasive stuff that will ding up steel knives in short order.

 

[Stuart in MN]

I'd use a hand plane. It will take a few minutes more per door, but they're less expensive and if you aren't going to be doing a lot more woodworking a power planer will just collect dust after you're done.

Another possibility is checking with local rental stores, they may have planers available.

 

[bimmerZ5]

a year or so ago when i was shopping for a planer and did quite a bit of research i ended up getting this:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000067S14/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Bosch 1594K.

I'm a value oriented shopper as well, but I don't want to throw my money at something that won't do the job right. Back when I bought this, the research I did (reading online reviews, talking to professionals, talking to other hobbiests) made me decide on the Bosch 1594K for the fine cuts it does and accuracy.

When I received it and actually used it, I was very satisfied with the results and the finish it left behind on the wood was soooo smooth I almost felt like I didn't need to sand it.

There were other models that were mentioned during my research too... so, that's not the only choice, but I think it a good one. The price isn't bad if you can find sales/discounts/coupons/etc.

 

[chrisexv6]

Id avoid that Ryobi if possible.

Another alternative to the Bosch listed above is the Hitachi P20.

I bought the Ryobi when I needed to do some planing and there is a pretty glaring issue concerning how secure the "foot" plates are. Note that there are two separate plates, which is also a borderline design flaw because its really tough to keep two separate plates completely in plane. The Hitachi has a one piece plate, I assume the Bosch does too.

I was able to return the Ryobi and picked up the Hitachi from Lowes. MUCH better, Ive used it mainly for doors like you are looking to do, but have also found it useful when I had to build new window sills for our replacement windows, since the walls werent plumb to the windows.

 

[porphyre]

An 1/8th of an inch? If you're not experienced, you're not going to be able to do that with a power planer. A stationary jointer, sure. But a hand power planer... naaaah...

Use a belt sander.

Clamp an existing (correct size) door to the new door as a guide. The edge left may be a tiny bit fuzzy, but probably won't. Do it on the hinge side of the door.

 

[bobemmerich]

I'd agree with the sander idea. I've had to trim doors with the planer, and unless it's a solid wood door, it looks like ****.
Now I'm going to get bashed here, but here goes: If you're not going to be using it all the time why not go with a Harbor Freight planer. I have one and it paid for itself the 1st time I used it on uneven trim pieces. I've also used it on a couple doors and for some small projects. Works well and didn't cost me a fortune.

 

[Givl Reggin]

I'd go with the table saw to remove the bulk of the material and a pass or two with a hand plane to cleanup the edge.

Porter-Cable makes the only decent hand-held door planer, it's base is about 16" long with an edge guide to keep everything square. With the shorter hand-held planers it will be much more difficult to achieve a straight edge... and that little gap around the door is *very* important because the eye can detect even the smallest undulations.

How are you going to mortise for the hinges?

 

[lilredex]

Use a power planer with carbide tipped blades as suggested. Practice planing to "the line" on some junk first, you can take off very fine cuts with those............just as a planer should. It is always my first choice when fitting a close fitting door. Problem with using a saw is, it'll take off too much (unless you had a half inch or so to remove), and a belt sander is difficult to keep straight in inexperienced hands.

Just my thoughts...........

 

[Rickenbackerman]

I just picked up a $24 (with 20% off coupon) HF planer and did three doors with it. Didn't want to drop the coin on a "good" one since it'll hardly get any use. It works fine.

 

[woody 73]

I just picked up a $24 (with 20% off coupon) HF planer and did three doors with it. Didn't want to drop the coin on a "good" one since it'll hardly get any use. It works fine.

If you just want to do a few doors this is the best way to go As the op said it will then just take up space and collect dust; you can sell it on cl for a few dollars.

I have a top of the line pc and it is just a fantastic tool,you don't even want to know the cost of a new blade or the cost to sharpen it!

 

[Greatbear]

If you have a decent circular saw, why not use it instead? Clamp a straightedge to the door and adjust it such that you take off the right amount while the saw shoe rides against the straightedge. In fact, make a slight "practice' cut that barely skims the edge first, then take small amounts off until you achieve your goal.

A couple notes: If you need to take off a somewhat significant amount off the edge, consider doing it from the hinge side of the door is predrilled for a lockset, otherwise you risk spoiling the latch depth. Taking from the hinge side avoids this, though you will have to re-mortise your hinges. If the lockset is not drilled, have at the knob side. Also, in some cases the lock side is cut at a slight angle towards the hinge knuckle side to allow the door not to rub the jamb yet not have too much of a gap when closed. Most interior doors are not critical of this, unless they are extraordinarily thick.

I have used both a planer and a saw to trim doors, and I actually prefer the saw-and-straightedge method. Hardboard/masonite doors will fuzz slightly, but you can knock the edge fuzz off with a sharp block plane or a fresh utility knife blade.

 

[Outlawmws]

SNIP
I have used both a planer and a saw to trim doors, and I actually prefer the saw-and-straightedge method. Hardboard/masonite doors will fuzz slightly, but you can knock the edge fuzz off with a sharp block plane or a fresh utility knife blade.

You can minimize that frayed edge look (Or chip out to a degree) by using masking tape on the cut joint before cutting. just make sure its stuck down tight, and peel it off as soon as you are done.

 

[RivennHewn]

If you can't get a good cut with a new planner, it's most likely "User Error"

 

[johnnybentwrench]

You better put a square on an edge. They are beveled so the hinges and strike plate do not bind.
That being said. Get a Skil saw(worm drive) have someone cut you a straight piece of plywood about 7-10" wide 3/4 1/2 1/4 what ever and use it as a straight edge with C clamps or good clamps no squeeze grip they will slide. The set back for the straight edge is 1" 1/2 for a square cut. mark the door and the bevel then flip the door over and mark the LONG part of the angle. Your new skil saw only tilts right, that's why you flipped the door and marked it. forgot you need an angle finder & clamps too. it's 2-3 degree angle on the edges.

Then you still need to mortise the hinges. mark them then use a razor knife to score the mark, do it deep. make crossed lines with a chisel then chip them out.

A little planer will leave whats called snipe at the end of your door(cut) the bed is not long enough to stay straight at the end and dives unless you know how to use it well.

double check everything before you make any cuts. Plan on taking the doors down a few times for adjustment. Have fun

forgot if you do not have a skil saw and decide to go that route. You will use it over and over. it cuts rock, steel, wood concrete +++

 

[TheGrooveking]

I have the Makita and the DeWalt, both work as intended, but I like the Makita more.As to using a belt sander, you'll burn the wood easily tring to remove 1/8" quickly, plus keep a straight edge will be difficult.

TheGrooveking

 

[DrunkSmurf]

Use a belt sander.

Clamp an existing (correct size) door to the new door as a guide. The edge left may be a tiny bit fuzzy, but probably won't. Do it on the hinge side of the door.

This what used on a couple doors that needed similar trimming (a little less material removal in my case).

I also feel I got a lot more use from the belt sander I purchased on other projects than I would have from an electric planer.