Planning 12x10 Shed Build

[03TorchedMach1]

Looking for some help and advice for a diy shed build. I got a $2500 quote to build a shed with $700 being labor. Id like to build one for much less with the help of my dad and some friends. Want to build a 12x10 on concrete blocks. I want it to look like this Lowes kit but better quality and durability

I started sketching some plans and below is what ive come up with. Keep in mind, im a noob and dont know a lot about building. I need some help coming up with a materials list. I think the floor is pretty much right on but suggestions are welcome. The walls are straight forward until I get to the doors. I want to use T-111 for the walls. Am I on the right path?

 

[tdkkart]

Being a farm boy I would add 2 14ft pressure treated 4x6's under the floor in line with your 2nd and 4th row of cement blocks. These will serve as skids in case you someday decide to move the building. That's just me, every shed we built had skids under it.

 

[chillrich]

I built a 10x10 a few years back, a friend built the vertical wall and roof trusses at work. The vertical and roof trusses were gang nailed together(a plate with perforations and protusions which hold the two pieces of wood together). I will build another shed this summer and just make these with galvanized and screws. Siding was osb and painted with a product called Roll-a-Tex added which gave the wood a texture like smooth stucco. This time I will use grooved hardboard.

 

[CitadelBlue]

If you build a 12x12 x8 ft high you won't have that much lumber to cut and waste.

 

[usmc_noma]

Why limit yourself to 8ft total height? That means you'd have to cut down a foot on your full sheets. I also agree with a previous poster regarding the skids. If anything just put your skids down on top of blocks then you can still move it. Most of the big box stores and local shed places here use 4x4s instead of 4x6s.

Sometime in the summer I plan on doing the same as you with a 10x12 or 12x12. There are several plans online which I've found that will give you just about all you need as far as materials list. You may have to refine a bit but for the most part you can see what you need.

 

[5lima30]

I agree with the other poster you might as well plan your walls to be exactly 8' tall to fully utilize the material w/minimal waste. Another bonus it will save you time as well. I agree using (2) skids would be better than the middle row of blocks. IMHO the sheds at Lowes are poorly constructed comared to the quality of building it yourself. Another suggestion is use 1x4 purlins for the roof (no plywood or OSB) and screw metal roofing right to the purlins. You will have a much longer lasting roof that will go up faster for little or no more expense. YMMV.

 

[03TorchedMach1]

If you build a 12x12 x8 ft high you won't have that much lumber to cut and waste.

I'm limited to a 12x10 so I dont have to get a building permit. I am in a neighborhood without an HOA but I don't want something that is going to stick out way over top my 6 ft. fence. You all made a good point about the sides being 8ft...would be much easier.The shed will be only for lawn equipment and other small things to make room in the garage.

As far as the skids, its a good idea but have no reason to move it. This is my first house and not my last hopefully so when I leave this house, its staying.

AS far as the roof goes, I'd like to do metal but it won't blend in with my house. If I didn't have a neighbor on the side where the shed is going, I'd definitely do metal but I want everything to look alike.

I"m trying to keep this build to under $1000 for materials. Think it's possible?

 

[spg]

Any complete layouts would like to build the same

 

[usmc_noma]

I think it's definitely possible to keep it under 1k. Scour craigslist and the habitat ReStore to find deals on windows and doors. You can even find the roofing felt and shingles on there. Since you're doing T 111 that should keep costs down too. If you do wood doors you can basically lay your walls up with osb and siding, cut the doors out, and use the panels you cut out. That will be very quick, easy, and cheap as opposed to buying exterior french doors.

Keep us posted on what you do and how much it all costs. If you need plans, let me know. I have links saved somewhere as well as some plans.

 

[1320stang]

Your 7' side wall doesn't take into account the thickness of the 2x6 and plywood floor does it? By the time you get a header in there, you'll have a head knocker just like an Arrow shed. You can pick up a 10x12 Arrow shed with a floor kit for around $600 I think. I've had a 10x12 Arrow I bought in '95 that still doesn't leak, picked it up at Monkey Wards for $300 minus the floor kit when I lived in a rent house. When we bought a house and moved, I unbolted the roof in one piece, unscrewed the walls from the floor, detached the 4 walls and loaded the 5 pieces on the trailer. Moved it 8 miles and set it back up.

It's ugly, but it serves it's purpose and hasn't started rusting yet. Several years ago I poured a 12'x14' pad and once I get around to it, I may stick build a new building around the old one, that's if I don't build a shop in the back yard.

 

[Rick98Z]

In my part of the woods, if you place a shed on blocks it is considered a permanent structure and would require permitting to build whereas a shed built on skids is considered a temporary structure due to the fact it could be moved and does not require any permits...not sure if it is same where you are though...

 

[lowbucktruck]

In my part of the woods, if you place a shed on blocks it is considered a permanent structure and would require permitting to build whereas a shed built on skids is considered a temporary structure due to the fact it could be moved and does not require any permits...not sure if it is same where you are though...

That's a very good point. Funny what the city classifies as a "permanent" structure. Another option would be to do a gravel pad and build the shed on the treated wood skids, directly on top. Drainage would be a concern, of course. A french drain would take care of that.

 

[lowbucktruck]

Your 7' side wall doesn't take into account the thickness of the 2x6 and plywood floor does it? By the time you get a header in there, you'll have a head knocker just like an Arrow shed. You can pick up a 10x12 Arrow shed with a floor kit for around $600 I think. I've had a 10x12 Arrow I bought in '95 that still doesn't leak, picked it up at Monkey Wards for $300 minus the floor kit when I lived in a rent house. When we bought a house and moved, I unbolted the roof in one piece, unscrewed the walls from the floor, detached the 4 walls and loaded the 5 pieces on the trailer. Moved it 8 miles and set it back up.

It's ugly, but it serves it's purpose and hasn't started rusting yet. Several years ago I poured a 12'x14' pad and once I get around to it, I may stick build a new building around the old one, that's if I don't build a shop in the back yard.

Yep! I'd build that shed at least for 8-feet of standing room inside. Make the walls 9 feet high if you can. You say you're going to side it, paint it and make it look like your house; if you do that, I don't think your neighbors will mind seeing the shed roof over the top of your fence.

I have one of those darn beer-can Arrow sheds (gift from my wife, she thought she was doing me a favor) and I bang my head often going in and out of that thing. Had to raise it up on 4x4 timbers to gain some headroom.

 

[bczygan]

I built a 8x12. Standard 8' walls. OSB and vinyl siding and trim on house wrap. 2x6 rafters and ceiling joists at 2' o.c. with a 12/12 pitch. 3/4 ply attic deck. Opened the 12' side with an LVL and installed a bank of french doors. Installed 4 windows to open up all the walls. 3 tab black shingles on 30# felt on OSB roof sheathing. Edge metal and ridge vent. 4x4 hatch into the attic area and doors to access it from the outside.Electric sub panel and 2 2x4 flour 4 tube lights and 6 duplex receptacles. All on a 4" conc. slab on 4 mil visq. on 2" blue insulation board on compacted sand fill. Inside insulated and drywalled. Total cost with own labor and some scrounged and bought used materials is 2K.

 

[tdkkart]

If you build a 12x12 x8 ft high you won't have that much lumber to cut and waste.

Doing it this way makes perfect sense, which is a perfect explanation for why many zoning codes allow 10x12 as max size.

 

[1320stang]

If you build a 12x12 x8 ft high you won't have that much lumber to cut and waste.

Also, you make the sheathing run down over the base, thus keeping the 8' length on the sheathing.

BTW, I'd go Hardi-Panel on the siding, won't rot, price is about the same as T-111.

 

[Doug B]

Here's my $.02
Double up the outer 2 2x6 x12's
2x6 floor joists @ 16" o.c. (10 total) use joist hangers. 5/8 t&g plywood floor.
lighten up on the blocks. 4 down each side and one row of 4 in the center.Set the center row 3 1/2 inches lower than the outers.Lay a 4x4x12' pt on top of the center row
5/8" T1-11 over 2x4 studs @24" o.c. Single top and bottom plates. cut the studs so the total sidewall height from bottom of floor joist to top of top plate is 8'-0"
Frame the roof at the same pitch as your house.24" o.c. over top of the studs.
Match whatever roofing is on your house.

Post up build pics when you get it going.

 

[ovilla]

I'd say stick build it yourself or find another kit with NO windows. You're going to have a lot of valuables in there eventually, so I'd just opt for a single roll up garage door. This way you could park a riding mower or motorcycle in there. Plus, with the big door open, you won't ever miss the windows. Also, if you could build it a little longer, you might even be able to fit a project car in there.

Finally, definitely consider attic trusses to allow for even more storage, which will help keep the main garage free of Christmas boxes and other stuff.

 

[spg]

Does anyone have a complete layout or drawings for a 10 x12 shed... i know they have some that even tell you what exactly to buy. Thanks

 

[kmacht]

Don't bother with the arrow metal sheds. Maybe they were built good at one time but the ones they produce now are junk. I lost the first metal one I put up when we had some high winds and the doors blew in. Once the doors were gone it turned into a big kite and ripped out of the floor anchors and ended up 15' in the trees behind my house. The second one went this past winter. A snow storm that dumped 18" over night completely collapsed the roof. I had the extra kit that they sell to re-enforce the roof and it still wasn't good enough. I plan on building a wooden one in the spring. For what I paid for 2 metal sheds I could have just built the wooden one to start with.

Keith

 

[kenfath]

I'd revisit your idea that the shed will never be moved. When the time you decide to move comes you may want to take the shed with you. As suggested earlier, skid runners make sense. 4x6 or even 6x6" treated lumber is the way to go. I'd add a third skid runner. Cut all of them with a 45 degree angle on the bottom side at the ends for ease in moving. Skidded sheds can be moved easily on a roll-on of tilt bed tow truck or a flat bed trailer. Design the skid runners so they will fit inside the tow truck's bed rails. Also incorporate an attachment point for a winch cable or chain.

If you still think you would never move your shed consider that it will add little, if anything, to the property's value. A portable shed can be sold.

 

[rwhite692]

I looked at the pre-built ones as well, before deciding to build my own.

Here are a few pics I took as I was finishing up the roof on mine a couple years ago...8x14 storage/potting shed that I built in my side yard, to get all of the outdoor stuff (mower, garden tools, etc) finally out of the garage where we park our cars... About $1K in materials, doing the roof in tiles to match the house added a couple hundred bucks.

The frame for the base was built with 2x10 treated lumber, with floor joists on 18" centers, then 1 and 1/8" plywood on top...it's really solid.

 

[petee_c]

My shed build. On patio stone pads. I should have used a few more pads. I only put 24x24" pads on the corners. I may retrofit a few 12x12" patio stone pads in the middle as the floor seems to have sagged a bit. In the winter both the JD riding mower and motorcycle are in there. Shed is 10x16'. Board and batten. About $2500 for all the materials and stain. PT 2x6"'s for the floor joists 12" OC. 5/8 PT ply for the floor.

Windows are small. Plexiglass. Can't reAlly break in and steal anything big thru them. Let's a bit of light in for the back half of the shed

http://blog.pjbj.ca/search/label/shed

 

[usmc_noma]

I've seen several places with 24" oc vice the 16" oc. The Lowes shed in the first post is this. In building a 12x10 shed does it really make a difference? This could be another way to shave some of your cost but it's just a few 2x4s. Most of small shed places here build with 16"oc.

To the OP. Here are some other posts from members here with their shed builds.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=77341
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=73350&highlight=shed+joists

Shoot me a pm with your email and I'll send you an email with a couple 12x10 plans I've found on the inet.

 

[mgilde13]

I'd have to dig up some pics but I built a 12x16 shed on blocks two years ago for less than $1500. I built it to hold my sandrail so I used green treated 2x12's for the floor joists spaced 16" on center. I but it on blocks so that I could jack it straight up in the air and place a flat bed trailer under it if I ever decided to move it. I built it like a houseis supposed to be built and it is SOLID.

 

[bczygan]

I'm limited to a 12x10 so I dont have to get a building permit. I am in a neighborhood without an HOA but I don't want something that is going to stick out way over top my 6 ft. fence. You all made a good point about the sides being 8ft...would be much easier.The shed will be only for lawn equipment and other small things to make room in the garage.

As far as the skids, its a good idea but have no reason to move it. This is my first house and not my last hopefully so when I leave this house, its staying.

AS far as the roof goes, I'd like to do metal but it won't blend in with my house. If I didn't have a neighbor on the side where the shed is going, I'd definitely do metal but I want everything to look alike.

I"m trying to keep this build to under $1000 for materials. Think it's possible?

The following is preliminary. I'm working on a spreadsheet and will post it:

First things first. Check your setbacks and easements. Check zoning height restriction for accessory building.
Some ideas.

Design:
There are a number of decision points to deal with. It all depends on your initial and ultimate uses for the space. If it will always be unheated storage then that will influence the construction. If it would ever be a small workshop then that means you will need to make provisions for that future use. Let's assume this is only for unheated storage.
The second decision is whether this will have heavy storage in the attic space or not. This influences the ceiling construction. If not, for this 10x12 shed youcould get away with 2x4's for roof raftersand ceiling joists.
The third decision is height and general construction method. Prebuilt sheds and sheds built on site by shed companies have the advantage of quick installation and turnkey work but they skimp on materials. I much prefer a shed built just like a house with full height walls and full 2x4 wall framing. Especially if I am doing the labor, you get more storage space for the same money.

This brings up the question of design. If the shed is close to the house or placed where both are seen at the same time from the street, I prefer to match the house construction or style. This includes matching roof slopes and overhangs, trim details, roofing and siding materials and paint colors. Even hardware and exterior light fixtures can match. If you don't match or complement the design then make it different enough that it doesn't look like you tried to match it but failed. How finished a design will it be. If you are closely matching the house design you will spend money and effort on trim details, especially at the soffit and fascia and gable end roof returns. An option to save money, especially if the shed is further from the house or visually separate, is to make it rustic. Use exposed rafter tails and eliminate the soffit.

I live in the north where we get snow and I like to use a 12/12 roof pitch for sheds regardless of the pitch of the houses roof. This helps shed snowand rain and creates more storage in the attic space. The extra cost is just a little more roofing and roof sheathing.
The fourth is the floor or base. Concrete is the most stable base, capable of supporting heavy items and giving easy access for wheeled items. Wood floor construction on skids has the advantage of being easily constructed, but is equal in cost and still requires some kind of leveling of the site and strapping down. Concrete slab may require footings in some jurisdictions, and even if no permit for the structure is required, there may be one for the footings. This needs to be checked. a slab requires you to remove any organic matter and soil down to the sub grade and the installation of compacted fill. Placing the concrete is also not a one man job and you have to determine the cost of ordering just a yard or 2. Also determine if you have access for the truck or buggy. Despite these difficulties, a concrete clab is always my first choice.
The fifth is the access methods. Do you want just a man door? Barn doors? Sliding? hinged? How about attic access? The answers lie with what you are going to store. If it includes large items like riding lawnmowers or a 4x4, then you need bigger doors.

Roofing material is determined by whether you are matching the house. If not, I like a black 3 tab shingle. On sheds with a higher pitch the roof area is larger and more visible so material type and color has more impact. I always use a drip edge, 30# felt and a ridge vent. If heated with an overhang I use Ice and Water shield at the eaves.

Siding material is a difficult decision. The cheapest material is T-111, but this has to be stained or painted and becomes a maintenance problem. If you do use it, choose thicker material and fasten properly to avoid warping. Use construction adhesive and caulk joints. I like to prime the back and edges too. I prefer OSB with vinyl siding. In either case I use a house wrap.




The only way to keep costs to the bone, and to know almost exactly what they will be, is to do a spreadsheet.This helps you to find out each cost in advance, but more importantly it helps you to avoid forgetting items you will need. Design the structure in your head as you go, or do some quick sketches, and put down items and calculate quantities. Multiply by unit or item prices. Don't forget sales taxes and delivery charges.

Excavation
By hand by owner
Fill and compacting

Compacting by hand with hand compactor

Visqueen 4 or 6 mil.

Rigid insulation board 2" blue board- Not used

Concrete

Anchor bolts and nuts 3/8x6" "J" (8)

Sill seal (1) roll

Framing:
Walls:
Sill plates (Wolm.)
2x4x12 (2)
2x4x10 (2)
Studs
2x4x92 5/8 precut (30)
Headers
Door (In gable end) 2x8x8 (2)
Double top plates
2x4x12(2)
2x4x10(2)
Gable ends
2x4x8(6)
Attic and Roof:
Ceiling Joists
2x4x10 (10)
Ridge board or beam 2x6x14 (1)
Rafters 2x4x8 (24)
Rafter blocking 2x4x8 (3)
Sheathing:
Walls 7/16 OSB (11)
Gable ends 7/16 OSB (4)
Roof 7/16 OSB (7)
(Use misc OSB pieces for header packing)

Hardware
Roof sheathing H clips
Rafter end plate Simpson H1
Nails sheathing 8p Ardox galv.
Nails Framing 16p Ardox galv.

Roofing (12/12 pitch)
Felt 30#
Ice and water shield
Drip edge white alum. 10' pieces (7)
Ridge vent 10LF
Shingles
Staples 5/16
Nails 1" roofing galv.


Vinyl Siding
Corners (4)
Jmold (At door and gable end and eaves (10)
Siding
Gable ends 50SF
Siding 9x44=296SF
Total= 3 Squares


Trim
Fascias
Gable end 1x6 cedar x8 (4)
Eave 1x6 cedar x14 (2)

finish nails

Doors

Locks
Door

Windows
Any?

Electrical
Ceiling fixture
Light switch
Duplex receptacle

Paint or stain
Siding
Trim
House wrap

Caulk

 

[6530]

Double up the outer 2 2x6 x12's

Why double? What does this provide to the structure?

4 down each side and one row of 4 in the center.Set the center row 3 1/2 inches lower than the outers.Lay a 4x4x12' pt on top of the center row

Why do this? I'm not sure I follow.

cut the studs so the total sidewall height from bottom of floor joist to top of top plate is 8'-0"

Smart. That way the T1-11 doesn't need to be cut, and it provides a skirt over the floor joists.

 

[bczygan]

Nice looking shed, especially the exterior trim and paint and roofing. Two things bother me about the structure though, especially with that heavy roof. First, there are no ties from wall to wall plate tying together the top plates from spreading due to the roof load. Secondly, the 2x4 rafters have been notched, reducing their load bearing capacity. I would add 2x4 ceiling joists at 4'o.c. fastened with straps to the top plates and add 2x4 joists in between each existing joist (Also notched) to cut the load down.

I looked at the pre-built ones as well, before deciding to build my own.

Here are a few pics I took as I was finishing up the roof on mine a couple years ago...8x14 storage/potting shed that I built in my side yard, to get all of the outdoor stuff (mower, garden tools, etc) finally out of the garage where we park our cars... About $1K in materials, doing the roof in tiles to match the house added a couple hundred bucks.

The frame for the base was built with 2x10 treated lumber, with floor joists on 18" centers, then 1 and 1/8" plywood on top...it's really solid.

 

[Doug B]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug B
Double up the outer 2 2x6 x12's

Why double? What does this provide to the structure?
The long side joists or band will carry the floor joists and also the roof load.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug B
4 down each side and one row of 4 in the center.Set the center row 3 1/2 inches lower than the outers.Lay a 4x4x12' pt on top of the center row

Why do this? I'm not sure I follow.
The 4x4 will act as a beam in the center,cutting the floor joist span in 1/2. I like using a 4x4 to keep the profile low,so the shed can stay closer to the ground.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Doug B
cut the studs so the total sidewall height from bottom of floor joist to top of top plate is 8'-0"

Smart. That way the T1-11 doesn't need to be cut, and it provides a skirt over the floor joists.

 

[rsa]

Fine Homebuilding magazine has a series of videos, How to Build a Shed. FH's A Firm Foundation for a Backyard Shed might help too.

Here's a Popular Mechanics shed-build that I bookmarked a long time ago and had to resort to archive.org to find again. Google will turn up a couple of more current shed-builds from PM too.

 

[Hit-By-Thunder]

I too went with an 8' wall, built my own trusses used pressure treated skids. 2X6 fllor on 16" centers walls too are on 16" centers and so are the trusses. this way it makes for a very sturdy shed. Nothing worse than trying to strengthen it once all up.

I have to build a ramp to it this summer. I built this shed for framing experience/storage for when I started the new garage (see link below).

Rob/HBT

 

[petee_c]

I borrowed a book from the library on how to build sheds. I had decent carpentry knowledge, but no idea how to use a framing square for rafters, bird nose(?) cuts etc.

Got enough knowledge to build the above.

My floor joists are 2x6" PT, and the 'top plate' and bottom plate are doubled up, same with the outer perimeter joists.

 

[6530]

The long side joists or band will carry the floor joists and also the roof load.

That makes sense.

The 4x4 will act as a beam in the center,cutting the floor joist span in 1/2. I like using a 4x4 to keep the profile low,so the shed can stay closer to the ground.

OK, so the beam will run perpendicular to the floor joists. Now I get it.

Thanks for the clarification.

 

[03TorchedMach1]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I turned my drawings over to a good friend of mine that used to build houses for a living. Hes working on a materials list for me and coming up with some better plans. I'll keep this updated as I get closer.

 

[joeydawrench]

I have that same exact shed. I bought what was called 90% cut. They dropped off a pile of wood, shingles and windows. It took me and my Dad a weekend to put togther and another to paint. I think I still have the plans with the build sheet and all materials, if you want I could possibly scan them tomorow. I paid $1300 from a company called Everlast sheds in NJ. I love it!

 

[harvero]

I had this 12 X 16 delivered back in 2006 for around $1800. The story is that it was Amish built in PA.

 

[harvero]

I tried to build a play house for the kids in 2007. I ended up with more of a shed. This is 10 X 10.

 

[03TorchedMach1]

I have that same exact shed. I bought what was called 90% cut. They dropped off a pile of wood, shingles and windows. It took me and my Dad a weekend to put togther and another to paint. I think I still have the plans with the build sheet and all materials, if you want I could possibly scan them tomorow. I paid $1300 from a company called Everlast sheds in NJ. I love it!

Please do. My email is [email protected]