Planning and Building Process

[JbTech]

I'm planning, or trying to, for a 30 x 32 structure.

More likely than not, it will be a pole type. I've contacted several pole builders locally to get an idea on that costs will run. I know I've heard here to double it.

When your building was in the planning stages, what things would you have done differently?

Small things that affect cost more than you had thought?

Certain software or sites used to estimate costs that were accurate?

Tips or tricks that only experience teaches you?

Just looking to get my ducks in a row. Finances are in order. Rough size "should" be adequate.

I'm in an area with no permits, zoning, inspections so that should help.
Building will be roughly 150' behind the house.

Let me know what you think. Maybe this will help someone else along the same path.

 

[rok_hunter]

Depending on if you're using it for a work-on-a-car garage or storage, will drive where you put your drive-in door(s). Mine is 98% storage so I put the door at the far edge. The disadvantage is, when I pull a vehicle in to work on it I've got to "angle" the vehicle inside to give myself walk-around room all the way around it.

 

[Kaizen]

It won’t be large enough. My 30x36 was 1/3 bigger then my past spaced and now I have to build a mezzanine. Plan for mezz or attic storage or more sq ft.
Also insulate and pex slab. Cost money but only time you can do it


Sent from my iPhone using Garage Journal

 

[Craig Balzer]

I am finishing up a 2300 SqFt Hobby Shop and just about ready to start populating it with stuff. What stuff? How is it all gonna fit? See below (sorry -- my OCD kicked in and I got pretty detailed):

GENERAL

• Build as big as you can afford/fit on your property.
• You gotta know your plan inside and out – when the builder asks to move something elsewhere, only you can visualize the impact on other things / stuff
• Be flexible when reality shows up – also be true to your overall plan
• Windows? PRO: natural light – CON: entry point for scoundrels
• Skylight(s)? PRO: natural light – CON: then no attic
• A mezzanine is good for long time storage of large or awkward items; plan for where the staircase is gonna be placed; plan how to get heavy items up there and back down

FLOOR

• Thickness? 4” works. Except under lift
• In floor tubing goes in before concrete pour – plan carefully if a lift is planned. Should be thicker concrete and limited pex tubing near posts
• First thing down is 10 mil vapor barrier
• Then closed-cell insulation
• Plan now for smoothness of finish on concrete - - epoxy covering?
• Gonna wash cars in there – floor drain(s)? Lot’s of environmental issues to learn
• Gonna place light(s) in floor under lift??

WALLS

• 2x4 vs 2x6 construction. 2x6 is pennies more per board and allows thicker insulation
• I have R19 in my walls (Colorado) and the building is noticeably cooler this summer
• I have R49 above ceiling
• Finish with OSB vs Dry Wall. Dry wall looks prettier but to hang anything heavy requirements finding a stud of two. OSB is more industrial appearance put a shelf goes wherever you want to put it
• Windows – already covered
• Height if walls? 12 or 13’ allows most lifts to fit (I have 14’ ceilings in main room)
• Tall walls require more heating capacity; cost more to heat

ELECTRICAL

• Plan where your 110v outlets are gonna be, then add 50% more of them (mine are 4 feet apart except where a window gets in the way)
• Are you gonna use 15 or 20 Amp circuits? (different wiring requirements and different fixtures)
• Place them 45-48” above the floor level so they aren’t hidden later by benches, toolboxes, etc
• Plan for an outlet on the exterior of each wall
• Plan for outlet in ceiling for lift or drop light or other
• Plan for outlet in ceiling for garage door opener
• Plan for outlets up high on wall: wall clock, TV, modern “smart” speakers, other
• Lights – fluorescent or LED? Dimmable?
• Plan for exterior lights – Colorado Code requires a light above each man-door opening
• Plan for exterior lights – gonna have a patio nearby or BarBQ pit or horse shoe pit or Christmas lights?
• Plan for dedicated circuit for heater
• Plan for dedicated circuit for water heater
• Now plan when circuits are gonna start. Each can handle 8-10 outlets and each should start with a GFIC outlet
• Plan where your 220v outlets are gonna be. Consider welders, air compressor, lift, oven (powder coating, special tools, etc). Even if you won’t have these until the future, plan now to power them

WATER

• Gonna have a bathroom in there? A sink to wash up before going into the house is priceless
• Gonna have a bathroom in there? A sink to wash parts is useful
• A shower is priceless to avoid getting SWMBO’s towels and linens filthy
• Toilet?
• Hot water is nice to wash cars in the winter
• Plan a hose bibb on at least one exterior wall

A/C

HEAT

• Gonna use in-floor PEX?
• If not, propane or electric heater will need power and proper placement
• See comments re height of walls

STUFF
What toys do you have? Do you plan to have? Sketch your floor plan to scale on gridded paper; don’t forget windows and doors. And then, to scale, place all your toys. All of them. The easy ones are toolbox(es), benches and the like
Did you remember to ID a place to store floor jacks? Creeper? Jack stands?
Find a place for place everything”
o Welder
o Plasma Cutter
o Grinder
o Polisher / Buffer
o Powder Coating Oven
o Blast Cabinet
o Parts Washer
o Microwave
o Refrigerator
o Charging station for 18V DeWalt cordless tools
o Desk lamp
o TV
o Stereo
o Computer
o Phone
o Wall Art
o Other

STORAGE
• Plan cabinet(s) to store hardware (nuts, bolts, washers, this and that)
• Plan cabinet(s) to store supplies, such as
FLUIDS for the car

• Oil
• Oil Filters
• Fuel Filter(s)
• Gear Lube
• Differential Lube/Additive
• ATF
• Brake fluid
• Anti-Freeze
• Power Steering Fluid
• Marvel Mystery Oil
• Starting Fluid
• Lacquer Thinner
• Grease for ball joints/tie rod ends etc

CLEANING yourself

• Hand Cleaner
• Latex (or Nitrile) Gloves
• Shop Towels

CLEANERS for the Car/Engine/Garage/Floor

• Castrol Concentrated Cleaner
• Engine Cleaner
• Brake Cleaner
• Carb Cleaner
• Rust Remover
• Brushable Rustoleum
• Degreaser
• Acetone
• Mineral Spirits

BEAUTY PRODUCTS

• Polish
• Wax
• Touch-up paint
• Chrome Cleaner
• Chrome Kleener (Autosol)

WORKING on the Car

• Di-electric grease
• Bearing Grease
• 3-1 oil
• Silicon Spray
• Anti-seize compound
• Loctite
• Teflon tape
• Acousti Seal, Exhaust System Sealing Compound
• Wellseal Gasket Compound / Gasket sealer
• Wire of various colors and sizes
• Electrical Connectors
• Masking Tape
• Duct Tape
• Electric Tape
• Contact Cement
• 3M Weather-strip Adhesive
• General Purpose Adhesive Solvent Part #: 051135-08984
• 3M Adhesive Remover (Ronson lighter fluid)
• PB Blaster or Kroil -or Knock’er Loose
• Wire ties
• Mechanic's wire
• Cotter pins
• C-clips
• E-clips
• Snap rings
• Hose clamps
• Roloc pads/grinding discs
• Die-grinder burrs/bits
• Buffing wheels/compound
• Razor blades
• Utility knife blades
• Sandpaper
• Emory cloth
• Scotch-brite
• Grease fittings
• Fuel line/brake line and fittings
• Rubber hose: windshield washer, heater, radiator, fuel, vacuum
• Spray paint
• JB Weld

 

[karoc]

I am still in planning stages and will be for couple more months. One good thing about a wide open time frame it makes you think more and give you time to go over the details. So far one of the things that I have learn is details,you should to. Getting two bids from two different companys is the beginning but ask for details such as how far apart will poles be, what size will poles be, what is the treatment rating such as .60 for in ground contact. These are few things that I learned from GJ while researching. What will your trusses be on center etc. The more you know the more questions you can ask from your builders.

 

[SJay3660]

I would like to build a 36x56 pole barn in the next few years. A few things on learned on the GJ site.

If you are going to work on vehicles make sure you have enough room between the garage door and the wall. I am probably going 4' so I have plenty of room for tool cart.

Make sure you have a wide enough door - I am planning 12' by 10' - my wall height is going to be 12'

I am planning on using scissor trusses where I am putting my 4 post lift and attic trusses everywhere else. May cost more for the attic trusses, but cheap square footage for storage.

Also, you can do a cost estimate for materials on Carter Lumber's website. They have a Carter Lumber fairly close to you. At least you can get a rough idea of cost of material.

https://www.carterlumber.com/pole-barn-estimator

 

[matt_i]

I think you have to do your best attempt to look into the crystal ball.

Electrical service is an easy one that most people need up-front, so planning its route and entry to the placement of the sub panel is a detail that's easily overlooked.

I would plan ahead for interior finishing, even if its "not this year". Things like truss spacing and getting the proper BCDL (bottom chord dead load) for your desired ceiling is important and can save a lot of extra work down the road.

Planning for insulation is important if you intend to go that route, I know a person who had a post-frame building built for him and then basically built a stick framed building inside of it while insulating and finishing the walls.

Any heating of the interior needs a path to a fuel source. It might need a penetration for a chimney/exhaust.

As far as lighting I went with switched outlets in the ceiling. Just so if a better technology becomes available and I want to swap I'm not stuck with anything. Its all just plug and play.

There are many issues to consider other than the basic shell and they all have details which have to mesh.

 

[driftpin]

I am finishing up a 2300 SqFt Hobby Shop and just about ready to start populating it with stuff. What stuff? How is it all gonna fit? See below (sorry -- my OCD kicked in and I got pretty detailed):

GENERAL

• Build as big as you can afford/fit on your property.
• You gotta know your plan inside and out – when the builder asks to move something elsewhere, only you can visualize the impact on other things / stuff
• Be flexible when reality shows up – also be true to your overall plan
• Windows? PRO: natural light – CON: entry point for scoundrels
• Skylight(s)? PRO: natural light – CON: then no attic
• A mezzanine is good for long time storage of large or awkward items; plan for where the staircase is gonna be placed; plan how to get heavy items up there and back down

FLOOR

• Thickness? 4” works. Except under lift
• In floor tubing goes in before concrete pour – plan carefully if a lift is planned. Should be thicker concrete and limited pex tubing near posts
• First thing down is 10 mil vapor barrier
• Then closed-cell insulation
• Plan now for smoothness of finish on concrete - - epoxy covering?
• Gonna wash cars in there – floor drain(s)? Lot’s of environmental issues to learn
• Gonna place light(s) in floor under lift??

WALLS

• 2x4 vs 2x6 construction. 2x6 is pennies more per board and allows thicker insulation
• I have R19 in my walls (Colorado) and the building is noticeably cooler this summer
• I have R49 above ceiling
• Finish with OSB vs Dry Wall. Dry wall looks prettier but to hang anything heavy requirements finding a stud of two. OSB is more industrial appearance put a shelf goes wherever you want to put it
• Windows – already covered
• Height if walls? 12 or 13’ allows most lifts to fit (I have 14’ ceilings in main room)
• Tall walls require more heating capacity; cost more to heat

ELECTRICAL

• Plan where your 110v outlets are gonna be, then add 50% more of them (mine are 4 feet apart except where a window gets in the way)
• Are you gonna use 15 or 20 Amp circuits? (different wiring requirements and different fixtures)
• Place them 45-48” above the floor level so they aren’t hidden later by benches, toolboxes, etc
• Plan for an outlet on the exterior of each wall
• Plan for outlet in ceiling for lift or drop light or other
• Plan for outlet in ceiling for garage door opener
• Plan for outlets up high on wall: wall clock, TV, modern “smart” speakers, other
• Lights – fluorescent or LED? Dimmable?
• Plan for exterior lights – Colorado Code requires a light above each man-door opening
• Plan for exterior lights – gonna have a patio nearby or BarBQ pit or horse shoe pit or Christmas lights?
• Plan for dedicated circuit for heater
• Plan for dedicated circuit for water heater
• Now plan when circuits are gonna start. Each can handle 8-10 outlets and each should start with a GFIC outlet
• Plan where your 220v outlets are gonna be. Consider welders, air compressor, lift, oven (powder coating, special tools, etc). Even if you won’t have these until the future, plan now to power them

WATER

• Gonna have a bathroom in there? A sink to wash up before going into the house is priceless
• Gonna have a bathroom in there? A sink to wash parts is useful
• A shower is priceless to avoid getting SWMBO’s towels and linens filthy
• Toilet?
• Hot water is nice to wash cars in the winter
• Plan a hose bibb on at least one exterior wall

A/C

HEAT

• Gonna use in-floor PEX?
• If not, propane or electric heater will need power and proper placement
• See comments re height of walls

STUFF
What toys do you have? Do you plan to have? Sketch your floor plan to scale on gridded paper; don’t forget windows and doors. And then, to scale, place all your toys. All of them. The easy ones are toolbox(es), benches and the like
Did you remember to ID a place to store floor jacks? Creeper? Jack stands?
Find a place for place everything”
o Welder
o Plasma Cutter
o Grinder
o Polisher / Buffer
o Powder Coating Oven
o Blast Cabinet
o Parts Washer
o Microwave
o Refrigerator
o Charging station for 18V DeWalt cordless tools
o Desk lamp
o TV
o Stereo
o Computer
o Phone
o Wall Art
o Other

STORAGE
• Plan cabinet(s) to store hardware (nuts, bolts, washers, this and that)
• Plan cabinet(s) to store supplies, such as
FLUIDS for the car

• Oil
• Oil Filters
• Fuel Filter(s)
• Gear Lube
• Differential Lube/Additive
• ATF
• Brake fluid
• Anti-Freeze
• Power Steering Fluid
• Marvel Mystery Oil
• Starting Fluid
• Lacquer Thinner
• Grease for ball joints/tie rod ends etc

CLEANING yourself

• Hand Cleaner
• Latex (or Nitrile) Gloves
• Shop Towels

CLEANERS for the Car/Engine/Garage/Floor

• Castrol Concentrated Cleaner
• Engine Cleaner
• Brake Cleaner
• Carb Cleaner
• Rust Remover
• Brushable Rustoleum
• Degreaser
• Acetone
• Mineral Spirits

BEAUTY PRODUCTS

• Polish
• Wax
• Touch-up paint
• Chrome Cleaner
• Chrome Kleener (Autosol)

WORKING on the Car

• Di-electric grease
• Bearing Grease
• 3-1 oil
• Silicon Spray
• Anti-seize compound
• Loctite
• Teflon tape
• Acousti Seal, Exhaust System Sealing Compound
• Wellseal Gasket Compound / Gasket sealer
• Wire of various colors and sizes
• Electrical Connectors
• Masking Tape
• Duct Tape
• Electric Tape
• Contact Cement
• 3M Weather-strip Adhesive
• General Purpose Adhesive Solvent Part #: 051135-08984
• 3M Adhesive Remover (Ronson lighter fluid)
• PB Blaster or Kroil -or Knock’er Loose
• Wire ties
• Mechanic's wire
• Cotter pins
• C-clips
• E-clips
• Snap rings
• Hose clamps
• Roloc pads/grinding discs
• Die-grinder burrs/bits
• Buffing wheels/compound
• Razor blades
• Utility knife blades
• Sandpaper
• Emory cloth
• Scotch-brite
• Grease fittings
• Fuel line/brake line and fittings
• Rubber hose: windshield washer, heater, radiator, fuel, vacuum
• Spray paint
• JB Weld

A very-comprehensive list! That should help someone to organize.

Without that degree of detail, I'd just be-sure to have a comprehensive plan of what you want and where you want it. Make some elevations of each exposure from the inside, and plan your usages, then ensure that your build allows you to-do what you want to do.

About electrical, I suggest this is one area where you can never have too-much. I got to re-do the 2 car garage, and I put the electrical boxes > 48" above the floor. I also used 4" sq boxes, so I could use two duplex outlets in each. All the work is in EMT. I have multiple 240 v boxes, so I can install pretty-much anything that I can get into the garage. I also have 120 v and 240 v outlets in weathertight boxes outside the garage, if I want to do work out there.

The advice about high on the wall outlets for things like the garage door openers, clocks, trouble lights, speakers, lighting in-general, is something to plan. Having jackshaft garage door openers, I dunno why anyone would want something besides that, as it frees-up your area in the middle of your door.

Having a high-lift door is a good idea, it costs nearly-nothing additional, and enhances your usage.

One thing I didn't do, was to switch the duplex outlets for the jackshaft garage door openers. If you do that, then you can shut-off the power to them for additional security. Sure, you could throw a breaker, but a wall switch seems more-practical. It would be easy-enough to add.

 

[jetnow1]

Driftpin has it pretty much covered, I would add internet access and security plans to the list. I like awning style windows high on the wall, allows air/light when needed but hard for people to see in or climb in.

 

[rayra]

wider bays for vehicle work. bigger overall. dimensions in multiples of 4', less material waste and cutting.

 

[DJF3]

I too, am in the planning stages. I very quickly went from enclosing a 24x24 carport, to enclosing a 34x40x9ft high pole structure, to a 34x60x16 stick built garage. A few upgrades I decided along the way. 5" high strength concrete vs 4". The cost was an extra $2000 and I can park large trucks in there if I want. Not so much for me, but the next owner would now have that option. I'm not heating my slab, but I am insulating the entire area and heating with an overhead radiant natural gas heater. My neighbors shop is set up this way, and his floors are warm. My previous structure was built with attic trusses. I want to re-use the trusses for the extra storage. You can never have too much storage! I'm planning a 12 ft wide mezz at the back of the garage. So I'll have stairs to the mezz, and another set to the attic. Air compressor will probably be enclosed under the stairs to limit the noise. My other neighbor built a 40x50x14 shop, and he can't get his boat or travel trailer in the 12 ft door. I'm going 16ft so I can put in 12 x 14 ft high doors. Again, I don't have a need now, but for a few extra dollars I'm not limiting myself or future owners. I'm going with LED dimable lights, and lots of them. They are expensive up front, but bright as hell if needed and cheap to run. No windows for a couple of reasons. I don't want intruders to see inside, and I'll have enough LED's to make up for lack of light. They can also be expensive, and harder to frame in. As other said, plan everything out to scale on paper and you will soon discover what you need for space. Good luck!

 

[johnharris]

I am finishing up a 2300 SqFt Hobby Shop and just about ready to start populating it with stuff. What stuff? How is it all gonna fit? See below (sorry -- my OCD kicked in and I got pretty detailed):

GENERAL

• Build as big as you can afford/fit on your property.
• You gotta know your plan inside and out – when the builder asks to move something elsewhere, only you can visualize the impact on other things / stuff
• Be flexible when reality shows up – also be true to your overall plan
• Windows? PRO: natural light – CON: entry point for scoundrels
• Skylight(s)? PRO: natural light – CON: then no attic
• A mezzanine is good for long time storage of large or awkward items; plan for where the staircase is gonna be placed; plan how to get heavy items up there and back down

FLOOR

• Thickness? 4” works. Except under lift
• In floor tubing goes in before concrete pour – plan carefully if a lift is planned. Should be thicker concrete and limited pex tubing near posts
• First thing down is 10 mil vapor barrier
• Then closed-cell insulation
• Plan now for smoothness of finish on concrete - - epoxy covering?
• Gonna wash cars in there – floor drain(s)? Lot’s of environmental issues to learn
• Gonna place light(s) in floor under lift??

WALLS

• 2x4 vs 2x6 construction. 2x6 is pennies more per board and allows thicker insulation
• I have R19 in my walls (Colorado) and the building is noticeably cooler this summer
• I have R49 above ceiling
• Finish with OSB vs Dry Wall. Dry wall looks prettier but to hang anything heavy requirements finding a stud of two. OSB is more industrial appearance put a shelf goes wherever you want to put it
• Windows – already covered
• Height if walls? 12 or 13’ allows most lifts to fit (I have 14’ ceilings in main room)
• Tall walls require more heating capacity; cost more to heat

ELECTRICAL

• Plan where your 110v outlets are gonna be, then add 50% more of them (mine are 4 feet apart except where a window gets in the way)
• Are you gonna use 15 or 20 Amp circuits? (different wiring requirements and different fixtures)
• Place them 45-48” above the floor level so they aren’t hidden later by benches, toolboxes, etc
• Plan for an outlet on the exterior of each wall
• Plan for outlet in ceiling for lift or drop light or other
• Plan for outlet in ceiling for garage door opener
• Plan for outlets up high on wall: wall clock, TV, modern “smart” speakers, other
• Lights – fluorescent or LED? Dimmable?
• Plan for exterior lights – Colorado Code requires a light above each man-door opening
• Plan for exterior lights – gonna have a patio nearby or BarBQ pit or horse shoe pit or Christmas lights?
• Plan for dedicated circuit for heater
• Plan for dedicated circuit for water heater
• Now plan when circuits are gonna start. Each can handle 8-10 outlets and each should start with a GFIC outlet
• Plan where your 220v outlets are gonna be. Consider welders, air compressor, lift, oven (powder coating, special tools, etc). Even if you won’t have these until the future, plan now to power them

WATER

• Gonna have a bathroom in there? A sink to wash up before going into the house is priceless
• Gonna have a bathroom in there? A sink to wash parts is useful
• A shower is priceless to avoid getting SWMBO’s towels and linens filthy
• Toilet?
• Hot water is nice to wash cars in the winter
• Plan a hose bibb on at least one exterior wall

A/C

HEAT

• Gonna use in-floor PEX?
• If not, propane or electric heater will need power and proper placement
• See comments re height of walls

STUFF
What toys do you have? Do you plan to have? Sketch your floor plan to scale on gridded paper; don’t forget windows and doors. And then, to scale, place all your toys. All of them. The easy ones are toolbox(es), benches and the like
Did you remember to ID a place to store floor jacks? Creeper? Jack stands?
Find a place for place everything”
o Welder
o Plasma Cutter
o Grinder
o Polisher / Buffer
o Powder Coating Oven
o Blast Cabinet
o Parts Washer
o Microwave
o Refrigerator
o Charging station for 18V DeWalt cordless tools
o Desk lamp
o TV
o Stereo
o Computer
o Phone
o Wall Art
o Other

STORAGE
• Plan cabinet(s) to store hardware (nuts, bolts, washers, this and that)
• Plan cabinet(s) to store supplies, such as
FLUIDS for the car

• Oil
• Oil Filters
• Fuel Filter(s)
• Gear Lube
• Differential Lube/Additive
• ATF
• Brake fluid
• Anti-Freeze
• Power Steering Fluid
• Marvel Mystery Oil
• Starting Fluid
• Lacquer Thinner
• Grease for ball joints/tie rod ends etc

CLEANING yourself

• Hand Cleaner
• Latex (or Nitrile) Gloves
• Shop Towels

CLEANERS for the Car/Engine/Garage/Floor

• Castrol Concentrated Cleaner
• Engine Cleaner
• Brake Cleaner
• Carb Cleaner
• Rust Remover
• Brushable Rustoleum
• Degreaser
• Acetone
• Mineral Spirits

BEAUTY PRODUCTS

• Polish
• Wax
• Touch-up paint
• Chrome Cleaner
• Chrome Kleener (Autosol)

WORKING on the Car

• Di-electric grease
• Bearing Grease
• 3-1 oil
• Silicon Spray
• Anti-seize compound
• Loctite
• Teflon tape
• Acousti Seal, Exhaust System Sealing Compound
• Wellseal Gasket Compound / Gasket sealer
• Wire of various colors and sizes
• Electrical Connectors
• Masking Tape
• Duct Tape
• Electric Tape
• Contact Cement
• 3M Weather-strip Adhesive
• General Purpose Adhesive Solvent Part #: 051135-08984
• 3M Adhesive Remover (Ronson lighter fluid)
• PB Blaster or Kroil -or Knock’er Loose
• Wire ties
• Mechanic's wire
• Cotter pins
• C-clips
• E-clips
• Snap rings
• Hose clamps
• Roloc pads/grinding discs
• Die-grinder burrs/bits
• Buffing wheels/compound
• Razor blades
• Utility knife blades
• Sandpaper
• Emory cloth
• Scotch-brite
• Grease fittings
• Fuel line/brake line and fittings
• Rubber hose: windshield washer, heater, radiator, fuel, vacuum
• Spray paint
• JB Weld

Nice descriptive details and hints Craig! In the process of building a 30' x 28' garage. Answered some of my questions and doubts.

 

[Craig Balzer]

John -- glad you found useful/helpful info above.
One comment I missed in the GENERAL category: when deciding on overall dimensions, use dimensions that are divisible by 4. Results in less waste: dry wall or OSB is typically 4x8. Lumber is usually sold in lengths of even feet. You maybe ought to consider 28' x32'.
Craig

 

[johnharris]

John -- glad you found useful/helpful info above.
One comment I missed in the GENERAL category: when deciding on overall dimensions, use dimensions that are divisible by 4. Results in less waste: dry wall or OSB is typically 4x8. Lumber is usually sold in lengths of even feet. You maybe ought to consider 28' x32'.
Craig

Hi Craig.
Thanks for tip on using divisible 4 dimensions since lumber is sold that way. I actually did give a thought of making it wider. A 30' wide garage would leave 5 extra feet left between neighbor's property. I will probably make it 32' and have 3 feet leftover. My neighbor and I are well associated and he doesn't care how big I build the garage. I helped him build a deck last May.
John

 

[Rugby]

I am in the process of planning a new 40x40 red iron building.

I have been looking at doing 4k concert and 5" pad vs a 4" the lifts I have been looking at recommend 4" thick 3k so anything that's a step above would be better. My plan is lots of lights and lots of outlets.

 

[nadogail]

Remember the movie line "We are going to need a bigger boat" ?

Good, now get a bigger Check Book.

May you enjoy your garage for many years while in good health,