Planning for a 2-post lift?

[kvom]

A few newbie questions:

1) How far away from the wall should you plan to place one of the posts? I'm thinking just enough room to walk past would be preferable.

2) How much "leeway" on the weight rating is advisable. My F350 pickup weighs about 7400 pounds with full fuel. Should a 9K lift be fine, or would gping for the 10K make sense to have some wiggle room. My other vehicles weigh less than 5K pounds.

3) Anyone here have an Atlas lift? Feedback?

4) What are pros/cons of symmetric vs. non-symmetric arms?

 

[SteveU]

A few newbie questions:

1) How far away from the wall should you plan to place one of the posts? I'm thinking just enough room to walk past would be preferable.

2) How much "leeway" on the weight rating is advisable. My F350 pickup weighs about 7400 pounds with full fuel. Should a 9K lift be fine, or would gping for the 10K make sense to have some wiggle room. My other vehicles weigh less than 5K pounds.

3) Anyone here have an Atlas lift? Feedback?

4) What are pros/cons of symmetric vs. non-symmetric arms?

1. You should have it far enough away to be able to pull an axle half shaft out & give you room to work comfortably, I'd say somewhere around 4-5'.

2. With 7400 lbs I would go with a 10,000 rating. There is a thread in the tool forum about a 9000 lift having problems lifting suburbans which weigh less than your truck. If possible I'd go with something like a 10,000 lb Mohawk which is built like a tank but will run between 5500-6000. Next choice would be a 10,000 lb Rotary running about 3500. I personally wouldn't want to get under that truck on a cheap import lift manufactured with unknown quality control.

3. Haven't heard much about them good or bad.

4. Assymetric lifts the vehicle off center from the lift and makes it easier to open the doors without hitting the posts. Symmetric centers the vehicle on the posts & looks like it would be less stress on the post mounting bolts due to keeping the car in closer?

 

[6768rogues]

I have a 9000 lb. lift made by Autolifters (American made), but they went out of business due to Chinese competition.
I figured far enough from the wall for an axle replacement. My 9000 \# lift was tested in the factory to 27,000#, for a 3X safety margin.

 

[FunfDreisig]

...
1) How far away from the wall should you plan to place one of the posts? I'm thinking just enough room to walk past would be preferable.....

First, I don't have a 2 post lift yet. So my comment may be way off base. But...

The standard advice about lift distance from a wall (removal of a half axle) assumes the wall is solid. In my design, I am placing a 8' wide side door on that wall

Funf Dreisig

 

[sneezer41]

The pulling axle point is a good point that I may not have thought of. On further thought, not a big issue tho. Figure a 7 foot wide vehicle[84 inch], 135 inch wide lift, add 6 inches for difference between wheelbase and width, 4 inches if you have a foundation stub wall that goes away when the car is up, sit the car 6 inches over.....close, but it would work. IS it a prime setup? No. However if you are dealing with the alternative of the other post being in the way 24/7, it may be the best option sometimes.

My brothers lift is very close to the edge [you cannot walk there] and you never notice.

Actually, his is an older Rotary assymetric, and I wonder if it is wider than that, since the bay is ~15 feet to a post, and it is pretty close on both sides.

 

[jezlberry]

A few newbie questions:

1) How far away from the wall should you plan to place one of the posts? I'm thinking just enough room to walk past would be preferable.

2) How much "leeway" on the weight rating is advisable. My F350 pickup weighs about 7400 pounds with full fuel. Should a 9K lift be fine, or would gping for the 10K make sense to have some wiggle room. My other vehicles weigh less than 5K pounds.

3) Anyone here have an Atlas lift? Feedback?

4) What are pros/cons of symmetric vs. non-symmetric arms?

How far away from the wall is a matter of personal preference. I install several lifts per week, and I ALWAYS tell folks to make your decision based on what you do 90% of the time. The axle thing comes up occaisionally, but until you actually see the columns standing in your shop, it's hard to get a pespective on how things look. But you don't want to move your whole lift over to accomodate the once in a while axle job, when you could back the car in instead!

As far as weight rating, you will probably be looking at a 10000lb lift since that seems to be the "buzzword" these days. However, Caveat Emptor applies here. All lifts are not created equal. There are several manufacturers that should be shot for the lifts they say are 10000lb capacity. Go with a reputable company and talk to clients in your area who already own the product. A 10K lift will lift most anything the average shop can throw on it.



If you choose to buy that internet lift, you could become part of the great Chinese Experiment. Notice how everyone on line has the "best quality lift"? Unfortunately I have had the experience of seeing the dejected look on the clients face when he realizes that the lift he just bought is really low quality. You should look for products that have the ALI/ETL or UL certification for lifts and are so labeled. And also find out who is going to service that lift for you when it breaks. I'll fix them in my area after the client calls the company and is told that "we don't do service there"

Here's a good way to look at your last issue. An asymmetric vehicle is a front wheel drive, where the entire drivetrain is in front of the windshield. This make the dashboard the center of gravity (the area that normally lines up with the lift columns). A symmetric vehicle is your SUV, Pickup, Van, etc. where you have a drivetrain that runs from front to rear. Typically, the center of gravity on these vehicles is the drivers seat, or farther back on crew cab duallys. Challenger Lift coined the phrase "Versymmetric" for their lift that is capable of doing both on the same lift. This give you the greates flexibility on how you load vahicles on your lift

Hope this helps,
Brian

 

[zj96sc]

so you're saying if i dont plan on doing anything with FWD cars, i should get a symmetric?

 

[kvom]

The Atlas lift I'm looking at is not an "internet lift". It's sold by Greg Smith Industries, who have a warehouse and showroom here in the Atlanta area. The lift is made by the Dover Corporation, which seems to be a reputable maker. To me the construction looks very sturdy, although I will be comparing it with BendPak and Rotary as I go forward. Both of the my friends who have lifts have Rotary. One thing I liked about the Atlas is that it uses direct cylinder lift rather than chain over pulley.

My F350 is 2wd, so an axle shaft pull would occur only for the rear axle, and if I ever had to do that I suppose I could just use a floor jack (or back into the lift). I do pull the shafts on the Jeep from time to time, but they're comparatively short.

In thinking about it I suppose that I will just center the lift on the bay door.

 

[bluesman2a]

I like my Rotary, but for the price difference, I think I would have gone with the Greg Smith and been just as happy. When I looked at them in the show-room there wasn't anything that immediately caught my attention as sub-par in design or construction, but I only looked at them for about 5 minutes.

I would center the lift left/right in the bay, BUT move it a minimum of 2' FORWARD of the centerline in the front/rear axis (i.e. AWAY from the door, towards the back wall).

Things to think about when planning placement:
1) can you get your common garage pieces around the sides (i.e. toolboxes and the like).
2) can you get your construction pieces around it? In my example I bought some scaffolding that was a GREAT investment (Northern), when stacked, it's the only way I can reasonably reach my 15' ceiling, but it will NOT fit under the lift and I have JUST enough room to squeeze it through on the sides.

 

[kvom]

I will certainly place it far enough forward so that with the truck on the lift the door can be closed.

Good advice all around bluesman.

 

[JD in DFW]

The Greg Smith Atlas lift is a china import made by Dover. Dover also owns Rotary but the two manufacturing facilities are totally different, Rotary is manufactured in Madison IN and the Atlas/Direct/ whatever name he is putting on this week is made in main land China. the Atlas lift is not third party certified if I'm correct (ALI/ETL) and I would read the warranty very carefully.
As many here have referred to the Rotary Lift. If it was me I would go that direction as well. Rotary has been around since 1928, they offer the best warranty and have local factory trained installers....best of all it's made here and the service and parts are here as well. The questions you should also consider is what is my life, those of my friends and family worth who may be under a car at any given time. To me paying a few more bucks for a quality, and certified lift is a good investment and peace of mind when working under it. Call Rotary and get the nearest Dist. in your area, I would bet he has a couple of used trade ins on the ground that he would make you a great deal on one and probably warranty it for a year or so.

What ever you do, do your homework and get a quality built lift backed by a company that manufactures and stands behind the product here in your back yard rather then a guy private labeling a China import that may or may not work 3 yrs down the road.

Good luck with whatever direction you go.

JD

Oh and a Asym will work great for you. Figure a space that is 12X24 and give your self a few feet on either side to walk around. Also checl your slab thickness, you need a min 4" thickness with a strength of 2000psi in the concrete...again a factory trained installer can check all this out for you and is usally included in the install price.

 

[SteveU]

One thing that I haven't seen addressed here is the height requirement, make sure whatever lift you plan on getting that you have enough height to install it. Would really **** to have the lift be a few inches taller than your ceiling. Most lifts require in the 12'-13' range and some of the Rotary's are in the 15' range though I think they are extended height models.

 

[ScaldedDog]

Not to hijack, but are there any decent 2-post lifts that will work OK with a 10' ceiling?

I know I couldn't raise my lifted 4Runner all that high, but could lift a car over my head - if the lift will work.

Mark

 

[SteveU]

Not to hijack, but are there any decent 2-post lifts that will work OK with a 10' ceiling?

I know I couldn't raise my lifted 4Runner all that high, but could lift a car over my head - if the lift will work.

Mark

About the only one I know of is the Mohawk which has 8' columns on the 7K and 8'7" columns on the 10K. They have stainless steel hydraulic lines running between the cylinders which are adjustable in height or you can route them in a groove in the floor between the posts so that there isn't anything overhead.

 

[JD in DFW]

Not to hijack, but are there any decent 2-post lifts that will work OK with a 10' ceiling?

I know I couldn't raise my lifted 4Runner all that high, but could lift a car over my head - if the lift will work.

Mark

Great point on the height issue when specing in a lift...I totally let that slip when I did my first reply. A 12' ceiling is minimum required for a Rotary 10K 2-post. Rotary also makes a Low Ceiling Lift that will fit under a 10" ceiling and has a 78" rise. The model number is a SPOA7LC and is rated at 7K# cap. it has the top crossover bar with the auto shutoff bar as well.
Have sold and installed many Rotary's over the years and they by far make the best lifts on the market today....at least from all the different brands of lifts I have seen come and go over the years. You can probably pick up a used one for under $1800 and check with a local auto lift dist/service house in your area, most take them in on trade from the area dealership market they service.

 

[J66442]

not trying to hijack this thread, but it raises a question for me.

I am in the early planning stages for a 40 x 60 metal building. what would be the best door setup for the 40' wall. I originally thought a 16w x 12 tall roll up door offset to one side.

Is a 16 wide opening still useful when you have a two post lift or is the extra width unusable because of the post? I would like the ability to drive into the garage while the lift is in use, not necessarily driving under the car I am working on.

I am also considering two 10 wide doors.

this is a home garage/storage building so I do not need several doors all the way across the front. I will have a back roll up door for cross ventilation.

 

[prc07nascar]

anybody know about forward lifts????

 

[krooser]

How far away from the wall is a matter of personal preference. I install several lifts per week, and I ALWAYS tell folks to make your decision based on what you do 90% of the time. The axle thing comes up occaisionally, but until you actually see the columns standing in your shop, it's hard to get a pespective on how things look. But you don't want to move your whole lift over to accomodate the once in a while axle job, when you could back the car in instead!

As far as weight rating, you will probably be looking at a 10000lb lift since that seems to be the "buzzword" these days. However, Caveat Emptor applies here. All lifts are not created equal. There are several manufacturers that should be shot for the lifts they say are 10000lb capacity. Go with a reputable company and talk to clients in your area who already own the product. A 10K lift will lift most anything the average shop can throw on it.



If you choose to buy that internet lift, you could become part of the great Chinese Experiment. Notice how everyone on line has the "best quality lift"? Unfortunately I have had the experience of seeing the dejected look on the clients face when he realizes that the lift he just bought is really low quality. You should look for products that have the ALI/ETL or UL certification for lifts and are so labeled. And also find out who is going to service that lift for you when it breaks. I'll fix them in my area after the client calls the company and is told that "we don't do service there"

Here's a good way to look at your last issue. An asymmetric vehicle is a front wheel drive, where the entire drivetrain is in front of the windshield. This make the dashboard the center of gravity (the area that normally lines up with the lift columns). A symmetric vehicle is your SUV, Pickup, Van, etc. where you have a drivetrain that runs from front to rear. Typically, the center of gravity on these vehicles is the drivers seat, or farther back on crew cab duallys. Challenger Lift coined the phrase "Versymmetric" for their lift that is capable of doing both on the same lift. This give you the greates flexibility on how you load vahicles on your lift

Hope this helps,
Brian

Old post but great info....

 

[brownbagg]

my toyota tacoma truck has to go to 12'3 for me to walk under it,and I am only 5,5

 

[mechamunch]

A few newbie questions:

1) How far away from the wall should you plan to place one of the posts? I'm thinking just enough room to walk past would be preferable.

2) How much "leeway" on the weight rating is advisable. My F350 pickup weighs about 7400 pounds with full fuel. Should a 9K lift be fine, or would gping for the 10K make sense to have some wiggle room. My other vehicles weigh less than 5K pounds.

3) Anyone here have an Atlas lift? Feedback?

4) What are pros/cons of symmetric vs. non-symmetric arms?

So here we are over a year later. What lift did kvom go with??

 

[babzog]

4. Assymetric lifts the vehicle off center from the lift and makes it easier to open the doors without hitting the posts. Symmetric centers the vehicle on the posts & looks like it would be less stress on the post mounting bolts due to keeping the car in closer?

I thought the asymetric lifts lift from the vehicle's center of gravity, meaning the stresses would be (more) balanced. A symmetric lift looks like it should tip over with the weight hanging way out to one side.

 

[kvom]

I got a 7K Mohawk asymetric ... there was another thread on the install.

When the garage was finished it was the bottom of the economic crash, so I decided to defer spending on the lift until things improved.

 

[Spaggs]

I have a Mohawk A-7 now. It is a great lift and recommend it for vehicles under 7000 lbs. I am moving soon and am installing a Mohawk System 1, which will lift 10,000 lbs, because I'm tired of using a hand jack and jack stands on my Ford Excursion. I've heard that both systems are reliable, you just have to adjust for the center of gravity for the different lifts.

Spaggs

 

[mechamunch]

I got a 7K Mohawk asymetric ... there was another thread on the install.

Well, that gets a great big

 

[vagabond1]

anything new on lifts?

 

[R. Deschain]

5'

You will want room to remove tires, push tool carts around, move a compressor, etc. I only have 3 feet from wall to post and it is not enough room!