Wakepowell
Member
My plan is to also install 2 12ft Big *** Fans. Since I do not have a ridge vent system it should help the overall circulation.
Planning mini split install in Dallas
- Thread starter miketyler
- Start date
My plan is to also install 2 12ft Big *** Fans. Since I do not have a ridge vent system it should help the overall circulation.
Wakepowell
Member
Hey Bob! By the time I am done with both of mine I'll be a pro.
WakePowell - thats one helluva space you have there. My brother has a Shelby replica as well. Was built by BackDraft Racing out of FL. He ordered it with their wicked 427 package. I rode with him once and wont do it again.
He enjoyed the buying experience. Once a deposit was made and the car assigned a serial he could login to the website and check progress on the car during the build. He flew down there for final assembly.
Thanks, the Cobra is a CSX6000 continuation car. It's the aluminum body with Shelby built 427 side oiler. It's a scary ride when you get into it.
Looks like you've got a good group of car guys with some nice rides.
Falcon67
Well-known member
Ya, little bit of horsepower in that pic. Nice.
Wakepowell
Member
I bought the Senville outside wall mount from seller "Sogoodtobuy" on eBay and installed yesterday.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Piece-Wal...-To-330-Lbs-/360973865681?hash=item540bb812d1
The kit looks to be decent quality but appears a little different than the illustration. All structural members are powder coated a cream color and the steel material feels rigid enough for the task but overall seems very light to me to be rated to support 330lbs. I think the bolts look to be ok quality with a bright zinc finish but the washers and spacers are complete ****. For $40, I'm not complaining.
This unit uses a single supporting channel that the condenser hangs off. The two support arms are suspended from the horizontal channel by a slide-in channel nut. The kit includes eight rubber insulators and two rubber bumpers that rest against the wall and are adjustable and can aid in leveling the unit. The instructions are as you might imagine, written in a universal format and could be improved on. There were two metal brackets included that I am unsure where they go. I sent an email in to them to see what they say on those issues
Installation went fine. From reading other threads I wanted to minimize any damage to the brick veneer so I opted for 3/8" dia thru bolts that I had laying around from past car restorations. Not sure how this will play out for resonant noise transmitted into the walls but I am not too worried about it since its not a living space and the area its cooling is 10ft above where the unit is located.
The design does lend itself to lateral adjustability. The support channel has slotted holes 2-3" long and the L-arms can be slid independently to match footing spacing on the condenser. Once the condenser is in place, the attaching bolts could be loosened and the condenser could be slid left or right if needed.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Piece-Wal...-To-330-Lbs-/360973865681?hash=item540bb812d1
The kit looks to be decent quality but appears a little different than the illustration. All structural members are powder coated a cream color and the steel material feels rigid enough for the task but overall seems very light to me to be rated to support 330lbs. I think the bolts look to be ok quality with a bright zinc finish but the washers and spacers are complete ****. For $40, I'm not complaining.
This unit uses a single supporting channel that the condenser hangs off. The two support arms are suspended from the horizontal channel by a slide-in channel nut. The kit includes eight rubber insulators and two rubber bumpers that rest against the wall and are adjustable and can aid in leveling the unit. The instructions are as you might imagine, written in a universal format and could be improved on. There were two metal brackets included that I am unsure where they go. I sent an email in to them to see what they say on those issues
Installation went fine. From reading other threads I wanted to minimize any damage to the brick veneer so I opted for 3/8" dia thru bolts that I had laying around from past car restorations. Not sure how this will play out for resonant noise transmitted into the walls but I am not too worried about it since its not a living space and the area its cooling is 10ft above where the unit is located.
The design does lend itself to lateral adjustability. The support channel has slotted holes 2-3" long and the L-arms can be slid independently to match footing spacing on the condenser. Once the condenser is in place, the attaching bolts could be loosened and the condenser could be slid left or right if needed.
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The 2 unit mini-splits look to be perfect solution for your garage and loft.
Also, with color of garage exterior, you did well with the bracket color . . . was that luck-of-the-draw or did you order it that way ??
What did you end up spending on each unit ?? Really only $700 for both plus install kit ?? What's your total equipment cost ??
Good luck with rest of install . . . GREAT shop !!!
Also, with color of garage exterior, you did well with the bracket color . . . was that luck-of-the-draw or did you order it that way ??
What did you end up spending on each unit ?? Really only $700 for both plus install kit ?? What's your total equipment cost ??
Good luck with rest of install . . . GREAT shop !!!
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Hey CNG - thanks! I sure hope it all works out. The choice to go with the ceiling cassette was definitely taking the road less traveled.
The mini split system was $700+ the gas to go get it. I havent added it all up yet but I expect I will come in around $1300 for it all once I buy the breaker, wiring, mount, copper, wireless control and my AC guy's service to bring it back online. I got the rafters framed in and the cassette is fit and in place. Had a few lessons learned there in rafter framing. Will post up pics later this evening.
The mini split system was $700+ the gas to go get it. I havent added it all up yet but I expect I will come in around $1300 for it all once I buy the breaker, wiring, mount, copper, wireless control and my AC guy's service to bring it back online. I got the rafters framed in and the cassette is fit and in place. Had a few lessons learned there in rafter framing. Will post up pics later this evening.
OK, time to do some catching up. Since I knew I was going to have to do some cutting I started a new thread here and got some advice on roof/rafter framing and general building practices:
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5061266
I had the rafters framed in nicely for the unit and then found the Mitsubishi spec on clearance. (When all else fails, read the instructions) If you have seen Mitsubishi install guides they are plenty detailed. Maybe too detailed as it looks like they take the engineering drawings and include those for the installer. Lots of meaningless manufacturing design specs that just make for a very busy diagram. I guess I cant really knock them for the additional info as in many cases there isn't enough info.
Install guide is here: https://ld3.melsup.com/files/PLA-A-BA_Install_RG79D307K01_7-07.pdf
To maintain their clearance spec I had to pull it back apart to have one inch all the way around. The unit is held in place by four 3/8" dia threaded rods. Mitsubishi spec has rubber insulator on top of the mount and one beneath supporting the unit. I used some steering link bushings I had laying around from the Mach 1 restoration for the top and cut the lowers from some some flat foam sheet I had.
These units do not set flush, but rather 11/16 +3/16" above the ceiling line. I set the correct height and got it leveled up. My line set should be here Monday and I plan to use plastic gutter drain ducting for line set cover. This weekend the goal is to return to the outside portion of the installation and mount the condenser, power whip and the disconnect.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=5061266
I had the rafters framed in nicely for the unit and then found the Mitsubishi spec on clearance. (When all else fails, read the instructions) If you have seen Mitsubishi install guides they are plenty detailed. Maybe too detailed as it looks like they take the engineering drawings and include those for the installer. Lots of meaningless manufacturing design specs that just make for a very busy diagram. I guess I cant really knock them for the additional info as in many cases there isn't enough info.
Install guide is here: https://ld3.melsup.com/files/PLA-A-BA_Install_RG79D307K01_7-07.pdf
To maintain their clearance spec I had to pull it back apart to have one inch all the way around. The unit is held in place by four 3/8" dia threaded rods. Mitsubishi spec has rubber insulator on top of the mount and one beneath supporting the unit. I used some steering link bushings I had laying around from the Mach 1 restoration for the top and cut the lowers from some some flat foam sheet I had.
These units do not set flush, but rather 11/16 +3/16" above the ceiling line. I set the correct height and got it leveled up. My line set should be here Monday and I plan to use plastic gutter drain ducting for line set cover. This weekend the goal is to return to the outside portion of the installation and mount the condenser, power whip and the disconnect.
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Just thought I would drop in and update my posting on this. I got both inside and outside units installed now. The fun continues. 
The lateral location of the unit was really decided by the location of the line set as I wanted them to run alongside the upstairs window. Once I had the unit located I realized that the unit needed to be slid to one end of the support bracket. That left about 10" hanging off at the opposite end so I made the executive decision to pull the unit back down and shorten the horizontal mount bracket and obviously voiding my warranty. <grin>
With the shortened channel installed and condenser mounted I set out to install the power cutoff receptacle. I hate drilling big holes in masonry. However to accommodate the plastic electrical conduit it was unavoidable. I also liked the clean look of the cutoff box by itself with no power whip so I drilled another large hole for the power whip. I plan to mix up some white mortar to seal up the outside connection around this.
I ran installed the wall-mounted two wire thermostat and have run it back to the evaporator and will wire it once I have the main leads run. This week I received my 50ft line set. A note on this; I bought this from an HVAC supply vendor in Florida called Budget Air Supply. They had these premade, all copper fully insulated line sets with an added bonus of 50ft roll of 14/2 burial grade wire on eBay for $195 shipped. I found they also had the same package listed on www.bonanza.com over $50 cheaper so I went with the latter.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-x-1-2-x...et-WIRE-USA-/191452495376?hash=item2c93753e10
When the line set arrived a week later all looked to be as advertised but no bonus wire. I called them about it and they agreed to ship it right out. Got the wire yesterday and while its good quality wire, they only shipped me about 36ft. I have called them today and spoke with an office mgr and am unsure how they plan to address. Not real happy about this. I measured my runs yesterday and may have enough but if I do it will be within inches. I do not want any splices in any of this.
This weekend I plan to cut the large hole at the top and prepare to install lines set, evaporator wiring (length permitting) and condensate drain. Not crazy about working off a ladder 18ft off the ground but will do the best I can.
The lateral location of the unit was really decided by the location of the line set as I wanted them to run alongside the upstairs window. Once I had the unit located I realized that the unit needed to be slid to one end of the support bracket. That left about 10" hanging off at the opposite end so I made the executive decision to pull the unit back down and shorten the horizontal mount bracket and obviously voiding my warranty. <grin>
With the shortened channel installed and condenser mounted I set out to install the power cutoff receptacle. I hate drilling big holes in masonry. However to accommodate the plastic electrical conduit it was unavoidable. I also liked the clean look of the cutoff box by itself with no power whip so I drilled another large hole for the power whip. I plan to mix up some white mortar to seal up the outside connection around this.
I ran installed the wall-mounted two wire thermostat and have run it back to the evaporator and will wire it once I have the main leads run. This week I received my 50ft line set. A note on this; I bought this from an HVAC supply vendor in Florida called Budget Air Supply. They had these premade, all copper fully insulated line sets with an added bonus of 50ft roll of 14/2 burial grade wire on eBay for $195 shipped. I found they also had the same package listed on www.bonanza.com over $50 cheaper so I went with the latter.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-x-1-2-x...et-WIRE-USA-/191452495376?hash=item2c93753e10
When the line set arrived a week later all looked to be as advertised but no bonus wire. I called them about it and they agreed to ship it right out. Got the wire yesterday and while its good quality wire, they only shipped me about 36ft. I have called them today and spoke with an office mgr and am unsure how they plan to address. Not real happy about this. I measured my runs yesterday and may have enough but if I do it will be within inches. I do not want any splices in any of this.
This weekend I plan to cut the large hole at the top and prepare to install lines set, evaporator wiring (length permitting) and condensate drain. Not crazy about working off a ladder 18ft off the ground but will do the best I can.
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I decided rather than working off a wobbly aluminum ladder that I would work from inside and take my licks for exterior blowout. It went very well and I decided to remove a full brick as another member did. Once finished, will reinstall 1/2 brick and mortar it all in. Once the brick was removed, I ran my 14/4 wire to check for length, and indeed was within two inches of being the right length.
This is where my luck ran out as I planned to run the insulated line set, 1" drain, and control wire thru a very economical 2x3 vinyl guttering. This proved to be too difficult with both insulated line sets. I might be able to pull it off if I reduced the drain diameter or removed the liquid line insulation. I now see the value in the line set cover kits as they allow you flexibility to run the lines and once in place, snap a cover over them. My alternative now is to use the larger 3x4 aluminum gutter or buy the kit.
My AC guy doesn't see the benefit in insulating the liquid line even in a heat pump application. It seems to me that in heat mode, that line will sweat and needs to be insulated like the gas line. Any thoughts on this?
This is where my luck ran out as I planned to run the insulated line set, 1" drain, and control wire thru a very economical 2x3 vinyl guttering. This proved to be too difficult with both insulated line sets. I might be able to pull it off if I reduced the drain diameter or removed the liquid line insulation. I now see the value in the line set cover kits as they allow you flexibility to run the lines and once in place, snap a cover over them. My alternative now is to use the larger 3x4 aluminum gutter or buy the kit.
My AC guy doesn't see the benefit in insulating the liquid line even in a heat pump application. It seems to me that in heat mode, that line will sweat and needs to be insulated like the gas line. Any thoughts on this?
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Radix2
Well-known member
Since the cassette is installed in the unconditioned space, is the last step to then bury it in attic insulation? I looked at the installation manual, but did not see anything about what to do above the unit.
Good question. I looked at the install guide(s) and found an insulation blanket listed. I believe this was intended to drape over the housing but cant see it called out in the manual anywhere. 
In my application my inside unit is mounted only a few feet below a powered roof vent. I think this probably reduces the chances of condensation forming on the top and sides of the unit but I do intend to insulate it with something. I have lots of excess batting now from the multiple lighting installs we did.
We just finished the installation this week and the unit works remarkably well for the space! We had a minor set back on startup (my fault) but was quickly fixed and the unit is everything I thought it would be. Will update the post with pics and more details this weekend.
In my application my inside unit is mounted only a few feet below a powered roof vent. I think this probably reduces the chances of condensation forming on the top and sides of the unit but I do intend to insulate it with something. I have lots of excess batting now from the multiple lighting installs we did.
We just finished the installation this week and the unit works remarkably well for the space! We had a minor set back on startup (my fault) but was quickly fixed and the unit is everything I thought it would be. Will update the post with pics and more details this weekend.
Planning mini split install in Dallas: Line set install
To pickup up where I left off at, I had the condensing unit and the ceiling cassette installed. The wired remote was mounted and the thermostat line was run and connected. I was finally ready to run the line set. As I had mentioned before, I had plans to save a few bucks and use some economical vinyl guttering.
I had envisioned building up the 18ft section of guttering, then running the lines inside it and with the help of my wife and others, carefully run the assembled guttering with lines up the ladder and feed the exposed attic lines in. I assumed the large diameter condensation tube would help keep it rigid for handling.
However when I tried to cram both the 1/4" and 1/2" insulated lines, a 1 1/4 dia, drain line and the 14/4 control wire it was just too much to shove thru that small of a duct. I tried some talc powder on the insulation and it did work well initially but with 6ft in, there was too much friction and I could not see being able to go another 12ft without taking a chance on kinking the copper lines. So I ordered the RectorSeal product called Fortress Lineset Ducting and waited for it to arrive.
As much as I hoped to avoid this expense, after getting the product in my hands I could see the benefit in its design. Because I needed 18 ft, it was cheaper to just buy two of their 12 ft kits. Longer straight sections were available thru a dealer special order but its was going to cost more than the buying two kits put together. It was a pain getting a plumb line popped from 18ft up and then installing each section using anchors in the brick and mortar. Keeping them straight was a challenge but I made it work.
The benefit the kit has over my cheaper idea using guttering was that you can pre-install the wall side first and handle the line installation separately. The top fitting is large enough to leave you room for forming a decent radius to make the turn going inside the structure. Also, there is a channel that runs along the length of the duct in the center on the wall side. There are black plastic clips that insert into this channel and with a twist, they affix to the duct and provide a tywrap block for you to stay the lineset to keep all snugged up and together. Genius.
With the lines now run and secured at the evaporator end and then cut and flared at the condenser in, I ty-wrapped the lines and snapped the outside covers into place. I had to trim the funnel piece to allow the larger lines exit but once done, looks very clean and professional. I used a Ritchie flaring tool with the bicycle handle. Another tool I used from my aircraft repair days.
I still need to run the condensate line lower and add a p-trap. Also need to split a brick and mortar it in at the top of the run. Not looking forward to that but plan to do it when I am doing another brick mailbox project here in the next week or so.
Next post: Charging the system up
To pickup up where I left off at, I had the condensing unit and the ceiling cassette installed. The wired remote was mounted and the thermostat line was run and connected. I was finally ready to run the line set. As I had mentioned before, I had plans to save a few bucks and use some economical vinyl guttering.
I had envisioned building up the 18ft section of guttering, then running the lines inside it and with the help of my wife and others, carefully run the assembled guttering with lines up the ladder and feed the exposed attic lines in. I assumed the large diameter condensation tube would help keep it rigid for handling.
However when I tried to cram both the 1/4" and 1/2" insulated lines, a 1 1/4 dia, drain line and the 14/4 control wire it was just too much to shove thru that small of a duct. I tried some talc powder on the insulation and it did work well initially but with 6ft in, there was too much friction and I could not see being able to go another 12ft without taking a chance on kinking the copper lines. So I ordered the RectorSeal product called Fortress Lineset Ducting and waited for it to arrive.
As much as I hoped to avoid this expense, after getting the product in my hands I could see the benefit in its design. Because I needed 18 ft, it was cheaper to just buy two of their 12 ft kits. Longer straight sections were available thru a dealer special order but its was going to cost more than the buying two kits put together. It was a pain getting a plumb line popped from 18ft up and then installing each section using anchors in the brick and mortar. Keeping them straight was a challenge but I made it work.
The benefit the kit has over my cheaper idea using guttering was that you can pre-install the wall side first and handle the line installation separately. The top fitting is large enough to leave you room for forming a decent radius to make the turn going inside the structure. Also, there is a channel that runs along the length of the duct in the center on the wall side. There are black plastic clips that insert into this channel and with a twist, they affix to the duct and provide a tywrap block for you to stay the lineset to keep all snugged up and together. Genius.
With the lines now run and secured at the evaporator end and then cut and flared at the condenser in, I ty-wrapped the lines and snapped the outside covers into place. I had to trim the funnel piece to allow the larger lines exit but once done, looks very clean and professional. I used a Ritchie flaring tool with the bicycle handle. Another tool I used from my aircraft repair days.
I still need to run the condensate line lower and add a p-trap. Also need to split a brick and mortar it in at the top of the run. Not looking forward to that but plan to do it when I am doing another brick mailbox project here in the next week or so.
Next post: Charging the system up
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Didn't realize I never posted a follow up to this install. The Mr. Slim unit has worked out great for my needs and I don't regret the added work involved in the ceiling cassette install. Its a 18k BTU model and heats and cools the space quickly despite the open stairwell and is very quiet. I really wish they would have added back lighting to the thermostat control but that's about the only thing I would change. Temp reading was taken with outside temps in mid 90's.
I have recently purchased a 24k BTU Mitsubishi heat pump with wall unit for the lower floor and will be installing it soon
I have recently purchased a 24k BTU Mitsubishi heat pump with wall unit for the lower floor and will be installing it soon
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fourkrings
Member
- Joined
- Jul 31, 2011
- Messages
- 10
Well done! Expecting to do something similar in my garage build this year. Look foward to seeing how the main level unit does for you.
Got the unit on Oregon Craigslist using Fastenal shipping. I did the bracket install and hung the unit this weekend. I never was comfortable using the supplied plastic tapcons and large screws. I am just not good with relying on that type hardware for loads this heavy. So I drilled thru the brick and into the sheeting and ran large thru bolt with fender washer. In the Senville three-piece condenser mount the weight loads hang on the top horizontal member.
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