Plastic Pegboard Standoffs

[red vette mike]

I need to install several sheets of pegboard in my garage. A buddy mentioned some pegboard spacers used to create a space between the wall and the pegboard. Any of you fine folks used such as this? Where to get these spacers? Since my walls are white I was going to buy some prepainted pegboard from HD or Lowes. Will that paint stay on the board or should I prepaint?
Thanks,
Mike

 

[Rader Rods]

1"x2" boards work! Set them on 2' centers.

 

[rnbradford]

I used those rubber things on one section of painted pegboard from Lowes. I am pretty sure that the rubber spacers were also from Lowes - from the area where the hangers are. If we are talking about the same plastic pre-painted pegboard you should not have to paint it. However, if I had to do it again, I would not use the spacers. Since the board bows a lot, it really needs Radar Rod's 1"X2"s for stability.

 

[jack bacon]

I need to install several sheets of pegboard in my garage. A buddy mentioned some pegboard spacers used to create a space between the wall and the pegboard. Any of you fine folks used such as this? Where to get these spacers? Since my walls are white I was going to buy some prepainted pegboard from HD or Lowes. Will that paint stay on the board or should I prepaint?
Thanks,
Mike

You can use plastic plumbing pipe -the thinner grey stuff about 3/8" will work good. Just cut to correct length. I used them to mount three trellises to the side of my garage. Jack

 

[wrigh003]

You can use plastic plumbing pipe -the thinner grey stuff about 3/8" will work good. Just cut to correct length. I used them to mount three trellises to the side of my garage. Jack

1"x2"s are cheap, work just right (stand the pegboard out just enough to fit the back part of hooks and brackets in), and require no fabrication beyond cutting to fit your pegboard. They also reinforce it so it doesn't wobble so much.

 

[JohnHenrys48]

I used the 1"x2" as mentioned above. Works great. I also painted the wall behind the pegboard a flat black. Cleaned up the appearance since no light reflects back out of the holes. Just another one of those overthought details...

Good luck,

Jim

 

[BowtieNut]

In my last garage I used shelf "standards". I was putting shelves up over the bench anyways, so I just got the standards long enough to go all the way down to the top of the bench backsplash. I thought they worked really well. They kept the pegboard plenty sturdy, held it out from the wall just enough to get the hooks in, and they didn't take up much space behind there (I could still use all the holes, don't the 1x2's block an entire row of holes wherever you put them?)

Anyways, I don't know what the cost of these are lately, since this was 15 years ago. Right now I'm doing a new garage, and when I get to that point I'm going to look into using these again, even though I'm putting cabinets above the bench this time instead of shelves.

 

[red vette mike]

In my last garage I used shelf "standards". I was putting shelves up over the bench anyways, so I just got the standards long enough to go all the way down to the top of the bench backsplash. I thought they worked really well. They kept the pegboard plenty sturdy, held it out from the wall just enough to get the hooks in, and they didn't take up much space behind there (I could still use all the holes, don't the 1x2's block an entire row of holes wherever you put them?)

Anyways, I don't know what the cost of these are lately, since this was 15 years ago. Right now I'm doing a new garage, and when I get to that point I'm going to look into using these again, even though I'm putting cabinets above the bench this time instead of shelves.

Are 'standards' the metal rods that you can hang the shelves from? Did you have to drill holes in them to run screws through or were the existing holes in the standards big enough for the screws? That sounds like a good idea. I know the 1x2's will work but you are going to lose some holes-right?
Mike

 

[wrigh003]

Are 'standards' the metal rods that you can hang the shelves from? Did you have to drill holes in them to run screws through or were the existing holes in the standards big enough for the screws? That sounds like a good idea. I know the 1x2's will work but you are going to lose some holes-right?
Mike

You do lose a row or so of holes with the 1x2, but if you think a little about where you plan to hang certain tools before you put it up, it's no big deal. I mean, in a 4'x8' sheet of pegboard, you're probably going to actually lose about one row per support. Figure the 1x2 is actually 1.5" wide, multiply by 8 feet (assuming you hang it horizontally), that means it's taking up one square foot of real estate on the back side of the pegboard. Then multiply by two or three for however many supports you plan to use. Probably three, one on the very top (where you wouldn't hang anything anyway, more than likely, one on the very bottom (likewise), and one in the middle to keep it from bowing in or out where you hang your tools. so out of 32 square feet, you lose 3 for supports. Not too bad for the cheap and easy solution.

Alternatively, you could hang the pegboard horizontally and run the supports vertically up the back of it. Math works the same. Whichever way works better for you and what tools you plan to hang on it.

<--Bored.

 

[BowtieNut]

Are 'standards' the metal rods that you can hang the shelves from? Did you have to drill holes in them to run screws through or were the existing holes in the standards big enough for the screws? That sounds like a good idea. I know the 1x2's will work but you are going to lose some holes-right?
Mike

Yes, the vertical metal pieces. They are actually kinda like little C-channel with slots in them where the shelf brackets slide into. The ones I used were pre-drilled for mounting holes. They have the slots for brackets every couple inches or whatever, and then about every 12" there is a round hole between the slots. I just used those holes for mounting the pegboard and it seemed to work good.