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Plastic to concrete adhesive ??

Burl

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Sep 21, 2007
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Where Mountaineers are free
I'm going to install my toilet in the garage, and I don't want to drill holes in the concrete floor due to my pex tubing. I need to glue the plastic toilet ring down, what is best to use? I've been to Lowes and read most all of the adhesive labels, none really describe what I need. Anybody ever do this?
 
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katmat

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Jan 10, 2007
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Don't think you are going to find a product that is going to work.
You should be just bolting the toilet to the floor flange that is fastened to the drain hub.
 

katmat

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Jan 10, 2007
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91
So you're saying that gluing the ring down to the pipe will hold the ring to the floor which holds the whole toilet to the floor?

The ring should also have some slots in it. You can anchor thru this ring, I don't think that your pex tubing would be run right up to the drain pipe. Also if you know which way your pex tubing is run (front to back or side to side),
you could put the anchors on the opposite side of the way it's run.
 

Lippyp

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Shropshire, UK
Make sure its stuck down well, nothing worse than leaning over for some paper and feeling the pot tipping over on you!
 
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nate379

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Funny you mention this...

I was at a friend's camp at the lake and he forgot to mention that the floor under the toilet was rotted out and you had to lean forward to take care of the paperwork since the pot wasn't secured to anything.

Well I leaned over to the side to grab the TP roll and the damn toilet about tipped over sideways. Poured ice cold water down my back.

Make sure its stuck down well, nothing worse than leaning over for some paper and feeling the pot tipping over on you![/QUOTE
 

Poncho Villa

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Dec 23, 2005
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Oklahoma City, OK USA
I'm going to install my toilet in the garage, and I don't want to drill holes in the concrete floor due to my pex tubing. I need to glue the plastic toilet ring down, what is best to use? I've been to Lowes and read most all of the adhesive labels, none really describe what I need. Anybody ever do this?

Do you just have the unfinished pipe sticking up through the floor? If so, I think my flanges were just glued to the pipe in the floor and were not glued directly to the floor. A few years ago, I had a flange with a metal ring that rusted so badly that the toilet couldn't be tightened to the floor. Lowe's had a metal ring that I screwed to the floor using .25 x 2.25" screws (see my Toilet Flange Repair Album). If you know the depth of your Pex, you may be able to drill without getting to them.

If you can post a couple of pictures of the project you're facing, I'll bet someone here can direct you pretty quickly. Good luck!
 
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little d

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Nov 13, 2009
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NW Oklahoma
can ya just glue the flange to the pipe and mount the toilet to it, ya but i wouldent. in fact i wouldent glue the flange to the pipe at all. if ya gotta change it out your screwed. contact the contractor that did your flat work and ask him if ya can use 2" tapcons to fasten down the flang to the floor. you should be able to do this with out hitting your pex.
 

tcianci

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Walpole, Ma
If you have just the pipe coming out of the floor and you need to install the flange, I would suggest the following: First use a sold PVC flange. Cut the pipe so that when you push the flange down, you get good contact with the floor. Since your concern is hitting pex (which I doubt because installers usually leave you some room) attach a few 1/4-20 screws through the countersunk holes in the flange and secure them with nuts so that you have a few "studs" sticking out of the back of the flange. Glue up the flange and push it onto the pipe making sure you orient the slots so that the closet bolts will end up in the right place for attaching the toilet. Once you have that in place, mix up a batch of hydraulic cement in a Dixie cup and pour it into the slots where you will install the closet bolts, filling the void between the flange and the surrounding concrete and encapsulating the 1/4-20 studs. When the hydraulic cement sets, you will have the flange sufficiently anchored to the floor. Note: If you are planning a floor finish other than epoxy, paint, sheet goods or VCT, you will want to actually install the flange on top of the finished floor.

Once you are all set with the flange, dry set the bowl, no wax ring, just put it down in the correct position and see if the rim of the bowl is sitting level, left to right and front to back. If it is not, slide wood shims under the edge of the bowl until the bowl is level and does not rock. At that point tape the part of the shims that you can still see to the floor. Pull up the bowl and install your wax seal and bolt it down.
Mix up a batch of sanded ceramic tile grout, you pick the color, but I wouldn't use white..maybe get something that goes well with your floor finish. Pack the joint between the bowl and the floor with grout and tool it off cleanly. Let is set for a day, then pull the shims out and fill the remaining openings the same way.

The whole trick to a permanent leak proof toilet install is to eliminate all relative motion between the bowl, floor, and flange. The wax ring is a non resilient seal and if the bowl rocks or the pipe floats around, you will eventually get seepage from the seal.

The anchoring of the flange and the grouting of the bowl ensure that nothing is going to float around or rock. One added advantage of grouting the bowl is that in the event you have someone using the toilet that has poor "aim", you wont have piss collecting under the bowl where it will just stink when it gets hot out.
 
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