Please advice on cordless impact wrench

[andre_saltiva]

Hi there
I'm running a local oil change service.
I use 1/2 ratchet most of the time, but i found it pretty hard to open transmission and rear differential gear tap/drain Bolt on light duty / mid duty commercial truck.
Breaker bar really do the job, but sometimes because of limited space / working area, it is pretty frustrating.
The biggest bolt i need to remove is 27mm socket size.

There for i thinks cordless impact wrench will come to play.
I searched for some tools in my area (limited brand over here) and now down to makita tdw25 or makita tdw1001

Here the question,
will the makita tdw25 open up 27mm bolt? ( yeah dirt and water make it pretty damn tight over the last years it opened)?
Makita tdw 1001 made me sure it will do the job, but price difference ( 300$ more expensive, I'll only use it around 2-3 times a week, so the price is you know.... ), heavy, and it is pretty big.

Please advise me which one will cover my need?
Thx




Tools i mentioned

https://www.makita.co.nz/products/model/DTW285

https://www.makita.co.nz/products/model/DTW1001

Here the vehicle i mentioned

 

[BlackLS2]

I would not use an impact gun on a drain bolt.

 

[andre_saltiva]

I would not use an impact gun on a drain bolt.

Any advice what to use when breaker bar cannot be use?

 

[Handyandy23]

I don't see any issue using an impact to REMOVE a drain bolt. I certainly wouldn't use one to re-install, though. But if I understand correctly it's only the removal that's an issue, and I can't see an impact damaging anything.

For reference, I work in an automotive production plant, and our repair bays have impact guns, but the forward / reverse selector is disabled on every gun so it only works in reverse. We have very stringent and strict rules around how to install fasteners, torque them, how many times they can be re-tightened, what type of torque wrench can be used to install what bolts, etc. But for removal the impacts are fully allowed to be used.

As for specifics, do you have the max torque ratings for each gun? Maybe the Makita model numbers are different depending on what part of the world you're in, but when I search those model numbers I don't see any results come up.

 

[RKA]

They only list fastening torque on those two models on the makita NZ website, but it's 200 ft lbs vs. 775 ft lbs. I would not bother with the smaller of the two on a 27mm bolt that may be corroded in place or overtorqued (or both). So given the choice, the big boy 1001.

But, in the US they have introduced mid-torque models that fit between the two options you presented, both in size and power. That would be my first preference, but I don't know if Makita offers anything in that category of impact tools. We do have options from Milwaukee and Dewalt. I know the M18 Milwaukee mid torque would probably do that without hesitation. I haven't used the Dewalt, but I would suspect the same.

 

[Bretny]

I worked for 9 yrs in the heavy equipment industry and mostly on stuff alot more rusty and crappy than your pics. I have never felt the need or the want to put an impact on a drain plug.

What to use in low clearance areas is a shorter breaker bar and/or a touch of heat. Also dont put them in so damn tight. There holding oil not the rear end in.

 

[engineer2]

The current high-torque Makita 1/2 battery impact is the XWT08. It appears to be quite powerful and should do well at removing stubborn plugs. Not sure if you need a beast like that.

 

[Professional Tool User]

Grow some muscles, get a 24" long 1/2 dr flex head ratchet, and push with your legs if necessary. You are risking big time damage for saving a few seconds of time and fitting the quick lube shop stereotype. Removing medium duty trucks plugs is nothing compared to heavy duty truck plugs.

The only exception I make to the rule are those 1 1/2 socket size CAT plugs on a full size CAT truck engine found on semis and full sized dump trucks that won't come off even with a 3/4 ratchet.

 

[ChrisLS8]

I see zero issue in using a gun to REMOVE the drain plugs. Id go for the big boy bruiser

 

[andre_saltiva]

I don't see any issue using an impact to REMOVE a drain bolt. I certainly wouldn't use one to re-install, though. But if I understand correctly it's only the removal that's an issue, and I can't see an impact damaging anything.

For reference, I work in an automotive production plant, and our repair bays have impact guns, but the forward / reverse selector is disabled on every gun so it only works in reverse. We have very stringent and strict rules around how to install fasteners, torque them, how many times they can be re-tightened, what type of torque wrench can be used to install what bolts, etc. But for removal the impacts are fully allowed to be used.

As for specifics, do you have the max torque ratings for each gun? Maybe the Makita model numbers are different depending on what part of the world you're in, but when I search those model numbers I don't see any results come up.

198 ft lbs and 775 ft lbs
Yup, its only for removing

They only list fastening torque on those two models on the makita NZ website, but it's 200 ft lbs vs. 775 ft lbs. I would not bother with the smaller of the two on a 27mm bolt that may be corroded in place or overtorqued (or both). So given the choice, the big boy 1001.

But, in the US they have introduced mid-torque models that fit between the two options you presented, both in size and power. That would be my first preference, but I don't know if Makita offers anything in that category of impact tools. We do have options from Milwaukee and Dewalt. I know the M18 Milwaukee mid torque would probably do that without hesitation. I haven't used the Dewalt, but I would suspect the same.

Corroded and over torque is the problem here
Dewalt can be my second option, but there some problem on warranty issue here on my local dealership
And for milwaukee, i can't found any shop available

I worked for 9 yrs in the heavy equipment industry and mostly on stuff alot more rusty and crappy than your pics. I have never felt the need or the want to put an impact on a drain plug.

What to use in low clearance areas is a shorter breaker bar and/or a touch of heat. Also dont put them in so damn tight. There holding oil not the rear end in.

The picture is only for reference, real time situation is much worse than that
I use 18 inch breaker bar, a little punch with mini hammer to remove some corrode. It's worked 90% with a little sweat and temper
Yes, i never over torque it in the first place.
It's just happen after months on the road, dirt, water and corrode come to play

The current high-torque Makita 1/2 battery impact is the XWT08. It appears to be quite powerful and should do well at removing stubborn plugs. Not sure if you need a beast like that.

Yeah, I'm not sure either
Plus it is the 3/4 version that available here

Grow some muscles, get a 24" long 1/2 dr flex head ratchet, and push with your legs if necessary. You are risking big time damage for saving a few seconds of time and fitting the quick lube shop stereotype. Removing medium duty trucks plugs is nothing compared to heavy duty truck plugs.

The only exception I make to the rule are those 1 1/2 socket size CAT plugs on a full size CAT truck engine found on semis and full sized dump trucks that won't come off even with a 3/4 ratchet.

I believe my muscle will going down onward from now on
It's been 22 years since i opened this shop and breake loose every bolt that i faced.
24" flex head, I'll try that
I hope it will get enough clearance with the flex head
I dont think leg can be use i my situation, im crawling down there

I see zero issue in using a gun to REMOVE the drain plugs. Id go for the big boy bruiser

Noted

 

[Wamsutta]

I was looking at a 3/4'' Makita at the local White Cap contractor supply. I couldn't believe how heavy it was; and it didn't even have the battery attached to it yet.

 

[andre_saltiva]

I was looking at a 3/4'' Makita at the local White Cap contractor supply. I couldn't believe how heavy it was; and it didn't even have the battery attached to it yet.

3.7kg

 

[mikehaugen]

I may be in the minority here but I've never liked the idea of using cordless tools for jobs that could get them drenched in oil. This is a situation where I would much prefer to use an air impact (whether an impact is appropriate I will leave up to you).

 

[WittHay]

You would need the large 1/2 or 3/4 Makita impact to take those off. The hex fill plug in the picture looks more like a engine or transmission oil pan plug. Some of those can be a real ***** to take off. The banjo or rear end housing should be strong enough to impact against vs a engine oil pan

The plug design on your trucks is different than most of ours which just have a 1/2 square female pipe thread plug that you use a 17 or 24" flex head ratchet to remove. With the raised square plugs we just use a large adjustable wrench. A 8-point socket and ratchet will also work

If you buy the Makita cordless instead of air, try not to get oil on the grips. The material used in the grips is meant more for clean construction work not gear or motor oil