Tomorrow they are delivering my IR 60 Gal. upright air compressor, and I was wondering if I have to bolt it down? It seems like a big pain to bolt it down into the concrete. It is going to be on top of a MotoFloor (plastic tiles). Should I just bolt hockey pucks to the feet, or will it move? I was also thinking another possibility is to use a thick rubber pad to protect the floor. Or even a combination of hockey pucks on top of a thick rubber pad. Also, Do I need a disconnect box for the electrical connection? I have a dedicated circuit that I can hardwire right from a wall wall electrical box using BX cable, I don't really see the need for a disconnect. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.
Please help ASAP!! Do I need to bolt down an air compressor?
- Thread starter up4speed
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alex71
Well-known member
You have to bolt a vertical air compressor to something.... It will come bolted to a skid, you can leave it on that temporarily, but a permanent install requires bolting to the floor with vibration-isolating pads.
I have mine wired on a dedicated circuit without an additional disconnect, but the subpanel is right in the garage and easily accessible. YMMV.
I have mine wired on a dedicated circuit without an additional disconnect, but the subpanel is right in the garage and easily accessible. YMMV.
wreckercologist
Well-known member
Should be fine without being bolted down but it may "walk" across the floor. A rubber pad should do fine to quell that. If you can stand to leave it on the wooden skid it ships on, it will also be fine. My compressor has been on it's wooden skid for 15+ years.
Mine is a 5HP and I just use a dryer plug. I have to unplug it when I want to weld, but it's not like I'm running a fab shop all day long. What ever trips your trigger!
Hope this helps.........I would expect a few more to chime in here shortly.
By the way, welcome to GJ
Mine is a 5HP and I just use a dryer plug. I have to unplug it when I want to weld, but it's not like I'm running a fab shop all day long. What ever trips your trigger!
Hope this helps.........I would expect a few more to chime in here shortly.
By the way, welcome to GJ
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krusty the clown
Member Emeritus
mine too...........it's a hillbilly install job
Lookin4'67Galaxieconv
Well-known member
Why? I've had my Campbell Hausfeld 60 gallon sitting on the pallet it was delivered on 15 years ago and never had the slightest problem.
krusty the clown
Member Emeritus
Why? I've had my Campbell Hausfeld 60 gallon sitting on the pallet it was delivered on 15 years ago and never had the slightest problem.
15 years IS temporary...........you'll get around to it sooner or later.
wreckercologist
Well-known member
15 years IS temporary...........you'll get around to it sooner or later.
I like the way you think, krusty!No need to bolt it to the floor. Get some rubber feet (isolators) like Charles and I have and level it out. If it's balanced, it shouldn't walk.
I tried the "wooden" base thing and it just walked way more than I liked. Plus the rubber isolators look cooler.
Or do IR's come with pads?? Or maybe that was Quincy....
I tried the "wooden" base thing and it just walked way more than I liked. Plus the rubber isolators look cooler.
Or do IR's come with pads?? Or maybe that was Quincy....
Lookin4'67Galaxieconv
Well-known member
15 years IS temporary...........you'll get around to it sooner or later.
Exactly!
alex71
Well-known member
You guys are giving the OP bad advise... Yeah, you can leave it on a pallet, but even though it works for you, you know that's not the right way to install a compressor.
Just putting some rubber feet on it without securing it to anything is a really bad idea. Put that garage full of tools to good use and mount it properly.
Just putting some rubber feet on it without securing it to anything is a really bad idea. Put that garage full of tools to good use and mount it properly.
Yea, like what if the pallet gets weak and breaks....ouch.
krusty the clown
Member Emeritus
i'll let you know when that happens (i doub't it will though) it would be different if it were outside exposed to the elements...............but this isn't the first time i have been told i'm wrong here. i guess the OP asked for options and he got them and it's up to HIM to decide.
i'll let you know when that happens (i doub't it will though) it would be different if it were outside exposed to the elements...............but this isn't the first time i have been told i'm wrong here. i guess the OP asked for options and he got them and it's up to HIM to decide.
True. I have never heard of one breaking....at least not someone who was willing to tell other people. Hell most of the ones I do see are on pallets.
krusty the clown
Member Emeritus
True. I have never heard of one breaking....at least not someone who was willing to tell other people. Hell most of the ones I do see are on pallets.
if you thinik about it there is more stress on the pallet during shipping than just the vibration from operations.
to be honest i had planned to bolt it down when i decide where i want it permanantly. after 8 years i still haven't made up my mind...........hence TEMPORARY!
I got my 60 gal IR compressor about 3 weeks ago and I haven't bolted it down yet. I took it off of the pallet because it (the pallet) was too big for the area that I planned. The compressor hasn't moved or walked, as a matter of fact it is pretty smooth and quiet when running. I am thinking about putting it on some type of cart or wheels so that I can move it around to clean behind it, etc. and because hockey pucks are hard to find in Alabama. I am going to do something with it this weekend however. If you don't have easy access to the breaker, it wouldn't be a bad idea to add a A/C disconnect. You can get a 60 amp box from home depot for about 15 bucks. It doesn't take up much room and if you can wire the compressor, the disconnect won't be a problem.
Lookin4'67Galaxieconv
Well-known member
The pallet on mine is a square about the size of the tank. It's perfectly good the way it is IMHO. Keeping it on the pallet made it very easy to move, when I loaded it on the moving truck, and when I put it on the dolly and moved it 80-100 feet to where it is now. 
Nealcrenshaw
Well-known member
Definitely bolt it down if thats the spot you plan on keeping it in. Also i would use a disconnect if your panel or subpanel isn't close by,say 20-30 ft.
Merkava_4
Banned
Those IR 60's are sweet; if I had one, I would most definitely have it bolted to the floor. You guys should talk about the various ways of bolting one to the floor. I'm thinking it involves a Hilti hammer drill.
Nealcrenshaw
Well-known member
Sure, a hammerdrill (I prefer BOSCH) and some concrete anchors.( red heads)
Lookin4'67Galaxieconv
Well-known member
Mine took off once, but came back by dinnertime!
Nealcrenshaw
Well-known member
evintho
Well-known member
Those IR 60's are sweet; if I had one, I would most definitely have it bolted to the floor. You guys should talk about the various ways of bolting one to the floor. I'm thinking it involves a Hilti hammer drill.
Yep, real simple. If you don't have a hammer drill, rent one for a couple of $$. Drill 4 holes. Pound 4 'Redheads' (concrete anchor bolts) into the holes and mount with the famed 'hockey puck' system. It'll be mounted securely and properly. If you need to move it someday, unbolt the 4 nuts and move it.
Used this method on my IR SS5N5 with 80 gal tank. Solid as a rock!
Nealcrenshaw
Well-known member
Evintho,thats just how i would do it.
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
You might consider looking at this now famous thread titled "Compression - Show Off Your Compressor", featuring 464 different posts.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4901
Here's how I installed mine.
Charles
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4901
Here's how I installed mine.
Charles
I have an 80 gal in place for fifteen years, sitting on a double mat of roof rubber. Hasn't moved yet and in fact, until today, I'd never considered it might. As long as you have flex line between the compressor and the hardline for the shop, who cares?
speed bump
Well-known member
Ours is sitting on a furniture dolley and hasn't ever moved plus its easy to push outside when I am painting.
caper
Well-known member
Most of the ones I've seen over the years have been sitting on their shipping pallets.I've replaced a few over the years that were 20 and 30 yrs old still sitting on the pallets.Most are hardwood and don't rot easily.
Chris Adams
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2007
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If it 'walks' put it on a level floor.
I have seen hundreds of compressors still sitting on the shipping pallets over the years. My present compressor was on its original pallet, but the pallet took up too much room to keep it. The pallet was 20 years old, still in great shape. I have it holding some other stuff now, too good to toss.
My compressor is on nylon blocks, just had them handy, slick bottom on the blocks, sitting on smooth tiles and it hasn't moved a millimeter yet.
I don't think it will, until I put a furniture dolly under it and move it to the new shop next month.
I have seen hundreds of compressors still sitting on the shipping pallets over the years. My present compressor was on its original pallet, but the pallet took up too much room to keep it. The pallet was 20 years old, still in great shape. I have it holding some other stuff now, too good to toss.
My compressor is on nylon blocks, just had them handy, slick bottom on the blocks, sitting on smooth tiles and it hasn't moved a millimeter yet.
I don't think it will, until I put a furniture dolly under it and move it to the new shop next month.
Charles (in GA)
Well-known member
I would think that if you are in an earthquake area, you do need to consider securing the compressor (vertical ones) in some way that it cannot fall over.
Charles
Charles
jkeyser14
Well-known member
You might want to reconsider putting it on a disconnect. The reason I say that is that you will want to turn it off when you aren't there and opening the breaker box to do so is a pain. I put my disconnect right next to the door so I just flip the switch on the disconnect on my way out.
Also, I used a 30 amp fused disconnect (heavy duty motor rated fuses) and 10 gauge wire that I purchased from either lowes or home depot. My compressor was a 80 gallon 5 hp IR compressor. The motor nameplate says 21 Full Load Amps so a 30 amp breaker will work great.
Also, I used a 30 amp fused disconnect (heavy duty motor rated fuses) and 10 gauge wire that I purchased from either lowes or home depot. My compressor was a 80 gallon 5 hp IR compressor. The motor nameplate says 21 Full Load Amps so a 30 amp breaker will work great.
Yep, real simple. If you don't have a hammer drill, rent one for a couple of $$. Drill 4 holes. Pound 4 'Redheads' (concrete anchor bolts) into the holes and mount with the famed 'hockey puck' system. It'll be mounted securely and properly. If you need to move it someday, unbolt the 4 nuts and move it.
Used this method on my IR SS5N5 with 80 gal tank. Solid as a rock!
Where did you get those mounts at?
tcianci
Well-known member
My DeVilbiss 6.5 HP 80 Gallon has been sitting on some rubber machine mounts that are designed to be bolted to the floor (but never were) for about 10 years now, never moves, never walks and it would take a couple of hefty linebackers to topple the thing. As far as worrying about it tipping over...thats what the flex line is for!
I have seen machines bolted through hockey pucks many times before. It looks to me like a guys version of an old wives tale. Hockey pucks are for hockey and it is doubtful that they have any vibration absorbing capability. Besides once you bolt through them you totally defeat any anti-vibe characteristics they might have had. The photo of the IR compressor on the pucks bears explanation... in order to isolate vibration from a machine (in this case the vibration is a result of the reciprocating mass of the compessor piston), you need to UNCOUPLE the machine from the floor, not bolt it down solid...remember the poster said it was solid as a rock? Rocks transmit vibration pretty well. The small anti-vibration capabilities here are provided by the small rubber under the nut on the thunderbolt, which tends to isolate the bolt from the rest of the machine, not the hockey puck. Look at the design of true anti-vibration mounts or feet....They all UNCOUPLE the machine from the base while using either some sort of rubber or spring assembly to CONSTRAIN movement so that it can't walk away on you. Another example is the common automobile engine or transmission mount. In essence they are made up of 2 metal pieces, one piece bolts to the engine or transmission and the other bolts to the frame of the car, between them is bonded a piece of rubber. These mounts are specifically designed for the application but in essence they allow the engine to do its thing without being hard mounted to the frame. Some mounts actually contain a viscous filling that further helps to de-couple the engine from the frame. In any event a GOOD anti-vibration mounting will use a material that is BAD at transmitting vibration. A hockey puck is as stiff as... well, a hockey puck, not very good material for isolating vibration and once you have a bolt in contact with the machine that is anchored to the very surface that you want to isolate the vibration from, it won't make any difference whether you are bolting through a puck or a solid steel round.
Think gentlemen... that's why good antivibe mounts are kinda spendy and hockey pucks are cheap.
I have seen machines bolted through hockey pucks many times before. It looks to me like a guys version of an old wives tale. Hockey pucks are for hockey and it is doubtful that they have any vibration absorbing capability. Besides once you bolt through them you totally defeat any anti-vibe characteristics they might have had. The photo of the IR compressor on the pucks bears explanation... in order to isolate vibration from a machine (in this case the vibration is a result of the reciprocating mass of the compessor piston), you need to UNCOUPLE the machine from the floor, not bolt it down solid...remember the poster said it was solid as a rock? Rocks transmit vibration pretty well. The small anti-vibration capabilities here are provided by the small rubber under the nut on the thunderbolt, which tends to isolate the bolt from the rest of the machine, not the hockey puck. Look at the design of true anti-vibration mounts or feet....They all UNCOUPLE the machine from the base while using either some sort of rubber or spring assembly to CONSTRAIN movement so that it can't walk away on you. Another example is the common automobile engine or transmission mount. In essence they are made up of 2 metal pieces, one piece bolts to the engine or transmission and the other bolts to the frame of the car, between them is bonded a piece of rubber. These mounts are specifically designed for the application but in essence they allow the engine to do its thing without being hard mounted to the frame. Some mounts actually contain a viscous filling that further helps to de-couple the engine from the frame. In any event a GOOD anti-vibration mounting will use a material that is BAD at transmitting vibration. A hockey puck is as stiff as... well, a hockey puck, not very good material for isolating vibration and once you have a bolt in contact with the machine that is anchored to the very surface that you want to isolate the vibration from, it won't make any difference whether you are bolting through a puck or a solid steel round.
Think gentlemen... that's why good antivibe mounts are kinda spendy and hockey pucks are cheap.
hawgputter
Active member
I mounted mine on heavy duty locking casters years ago with no probs so far.
Makes it easy to move for maintenance etc.
Makes it easy to move for maintenance etc.
hawgputter
Active member
Installed heavy duty locking casters several years ago.
Makes it easy to move around for maintenance etc.
Makes it easy to move around for maintenance etc.
Z06 427
Well-known member
I just got through installing an 80 gallon vertical. Used the IR isolation pads in their install kit. While I was moving it into position I almost knocked it over off center with very little tilting, these things are top heavy. In the land of earthquakes break out the Hilti and bolt it down.
nate379
Banned
The only thing I would consider with mine is wrapped a strap around it like a water heater strap. I'd rather it not tip over with an earthquake.