Please help identify the correct replacement Valve for my Furnace

[Flashesbuck]

I have had a REALLY annoying issue with my furnace for about 5 years now. Sometimes it fails to light. It will fail to light 3 times then toss an error code and turn on the blower.
I believe its the gas valve, because it lights the first burner, but will not pass it to the next 2 burners, then it shuts the valve (as its suppose to).
Its not the flame sense rode, cleaned it, and replaced it. And i have watched it "almost Light"

It only does this every once in a while, Typically at night, about 2am ill wake up, and have to cut the power, to reset it, and it will light just fine. Im sick of fighting it, and want to target the issue.

I believe its the gas valve, because its a different "click" sound when it doesn't light fully.
The issue is, I cannot purchase a direct replacement gas valve.

Its currently a White Rogers 36E24 205.

Is the replacement valve this? 36H33412
Also when I get a newer replacement, is there any "tuning" or changes that need to be made to the valve? As in setting the flow? or are these things set correctly out of the box?

Thank you for any help. I try to do all my own repair work, saves money, and i like learning about these things so i can make repairs at 2AM in the morning, with out getting a strangers involved.

 

[Flashesbuck]

Looking at this ebay auction here
https://www.ebay.com/itm/White-Rodg...251538&hash=item3f81e6ee09:g:2nsAAOSwrf1ZaNow

 

[yeldogt]

Sound like it could be the safety ? it's testing the exhaust to make sure clear .. have you cleaned it?

 

[Jackfre]

Any time you replace a gas valve you absolutely have set the proper gas pressures with a manometer. Each manufs setting will vary by model in some cases.
While yours appears to be a single stage furnace setting the proper gas pressures becomes critical with modulating equipment. If a modulating piece of equipment looses either the gas valve or the PCB once the new part is installed the gas valve pressures must be re-set to co-ordinate the operation of the two components.

 

[koditten]

Sounds to me like the gas valve you have now just needs the gas pressure adjusted.

 

[eddieK]

My bet is you have something disrupting the cross over...the first burner lights and the "wings" on that burner light the next and so on until the flame sensor has solid flame to keep the gas valve open.

Check the cross over for dirt and accumulation...

Also I have found that spiders like to make web nests in the orifices. If you take out the burner assembly, manifold and pull the orifices, look inside and see if there is something that looks like a cotton web filter - if so, that is a spider web nest.

 

[Flashesbuck]

My bet is you have something disrupting the cross over...the first burner lights and the "wings" on that burner light the next and so on until the flame sensor has solid flame to keep the gas valve open.

Check the cross over for dirt and accumulation...

Also I have found that spiders like to make web nests in the orifices. If you take out the burner assembly, manifold and pull the orifices, look inside and see if there is something that looks like a cotton web filter - if so, that is a spider web nest.

Every year, i sweep out the furnace and clean out this area. These photos are from 2014, mainly to get you guys the part numbers.
I, however, have never had the manifold off, to be cleaned. So I should take it completely off, off the gas valve and blow air thru it?

As for the chimney being clean, I'm fairly cerntiant that its clean. As I had to replace the inducer blower about a year ago. I did that on my own, and check for blockages all the way out.

I have also replaced the igniter, (hot surface ignition) just a few months ago to rule that out.

 

[Flashesbuck]

Sounds to me like the gas valve you have now just needs the gas pressure adjusted.

Any time you replace a gas valve you absolutely have set the proper gas pressures with a manometer. Each manufs setting will vary by model in some cases.
While yours appears to be a single stage furnace setting the proper gas pressures becomes critical with modulating equipment. If a modulating piece of equipment looses either the gas valve or the PCB once the new part is installed the gas valve pressures must be re-set to co-ordinate the operation of the two components.

I was afraid this was the case. I would like to rule out all the easy stuff I can fix easily before i bring in the expensive guys.

 

[Flashesbuck]

I could very much do this process, I just need a Manometer.

He has to be measuring Pressure right? not Vacuum. Its not very clear.

 

[yeldogt]

I'm talking about the round thing to the right ... I had this problem and it was the change in pressure after the burners started to light.

Are you sure the flue is not clogged anyplace?

I had a spider web -- or something like it in the tube.

 

[acmikee]

are your burners clean. if not remove and clean your burners and your jets stick a small piece of wire in them to clean them. also check your crossover line. then check your gas pressure if you can.

 

[Flashesbuck]

I'm talking about the round thing to the right ... I had this problem and it was the change in pressure after the burners started to light.

Are you sure the flue is not clogged anyplace?

I had a spider web -- or something like it in the tube.

Ooh, that switch, its measuring the vacuum in the heat exchanger.
If this was the issue, i don't believe it would light at all, correct?
My issue is, it will light the first burner, then cut out before the last 2 can light.

 

[Flashesbuck]

are your burners clean. if not remove and clean your burners and your jets stick a small piece of wire in them to clean them. also check your crossover line. then check your gas pressure if you can.

"Cross over light", can you elaborate a little please.

Tonight I check over these other parts one more time. I will most likely order a meter to measure outlet gas pressure. i heave a feeling, that there is just enough pressure to light it most times.

Its either that, or the valve solenoid is not opening properly every time.

Can someone please comment on my original part numbers, did i get the proper replacement part number?

Thanks for all the help!

 

[acmikee]

some burners use a cross over it light the next burner.

 

[3baygarage]

Do you smell gas when comes on? I Suggest finding out if the burners are fully clean before anything.

 

[Ancient Iron]

I have had a REALLY annoying issue with my furnace for about 5 years now. Sometimes it fails to light. It will fail to light 3 times then toss an error code and turn on the blower.
I believe its the gas valve, because it lights the first burner, but will not pass it to the next 2 burners, then it shuts the valve (as its suppose to).
Its not the flame sense rode, cleaned it, and replaced it. And i have watched it "almost Light"

It only does this every once in a while, Typically at night, about 2am ill wake up, and have to cut the power, to reset it, and it will light just fine. Im sick of fighting it, and want to target the issue.

I believe its the gas valve, because its a different "click" sound when it doesn't light fully.
The issue is, I cannot purchase a direct replacement gas valve.

Its currently a White Rogers 36E24 205.

Is the replacement valve this? 36H33412
Also when I get a newer replacement, is there any "tuning" or changes that need to be made to the valve? As in setting the flow? or are these things set correctly out of the box?

Thank you for any help. I try to do all my own repair work, saves money, and i like learning about these things so i can make repairs at 2AM in the morning, with out getting a strangers involved.

I do most of my own repairs also...... But I think in this case I would call a pro. I don't know enough about a gas furnace to feel comfortable at guessing. And gas goes BOOM

 

[yeldogt]

Ooh, that switch, its measuring the vacuum in the heat exchanger.
If this was the issue, i don't believe it would light at all, correct?
My issue is, it will light the first burner, then cut out before the last 2 can light.

Yes -- it is and they can get touchy. A weak fan .. slightly clogged flue -- something in the vacuum tube. When the flame first hits -- the pressure increases.

You should be able to easily figure out of you have enough gas pressure -- did you measure the volts ?

When it does light does it look like all the flames are equal ?

 

[PWC Repair]

My cross reference does indeed show the 36h33-412 to be the replacement for yours.

 

[tgb]

You should call a pro, gas valves are not something for diy to mess with, your home could be destroyed if you screw up

 

[Flashesbuck]

You should call a pro, gas valves are not something for diy to mess with, your home could be destroyed if you screw up

I knew I would get this response here. And I appreciate everyone's concern. Thank you really.
I have someone coming tomorrow afternoon to look it over.
But FYI, this DIY'er is a hydraulic/mechanical engineer. And I also work on nearly everything myself. Washer, dryer, sinks, cars,wife's whatever it is, "we either fix it, or we learn something". I would reather learn how do do it myself, I'm stubborn like that. To me the knowledge of how to fix it, is worth more than the money I would save doing it myself.

With that said, if he tells me I need a new gas valve, I will most likely replace that myself. Mainly I want to be sure the flu and chimney are clear, and it's exhausting/drafting probably.

I do have a video to post of it not lighting probably, whenever I get near my wifi again I'll get it up here. Get some opinions.

Thanks again guys, I really am here to learn.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk

 

[3baygarage]

I mentioned about the gas smell because I dealt with a furnace not lighting properly for several years. It caused major freezing problems that could have been avoided.

The gas smell was there when it would kick on.

We had a company too lazy to get dirty and look at our floor furnace properly, leading to unnecessary thermostat replacement. The gas company come in like gangbusters very helpful, ran tests, checked everything thoroughly, but put the problem back on the furnace guys. Nothing like digging the gas meter out of 5 feet of snow and ice for the guys to access it. Then finally had it serviced by people who knew what they were doing.

All it needed was a good cleaning. Just no one wants to deal with those old beasts.

I give you credit for fixing yourself. When I was a kid I would get in the crawl space and light the furnace myself when the pilot blew out. Too many times.

 

[brewchief]

Remove the burners and wash them, water does a better job then anything else. Use a wire brush and make sure the section of the burner that goes over to the next burner in line is clean.

The problem you describe leans me towards it simply needing a proper cleaning rather then a valve replacement.

 

[Flashesbuck]

here is the viedo of it not lighting....

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Flashesbuck]

its a trane xe80, also its not lighting anymore, i tried cleaning the orfices with a piece of wire, and still is doing the same thing, i could go deeper, but my wife praising me so much, i desided to give up on it, repair guy is coming tomorrow afternoon.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[DertyWerk]

I would check voltage to gas valve. If it's not consistent and jumps around replace the IFC. But cleaning the burners like previously mentioned is a good start. Really easy on that model.

 

[cory58]

My furnace had the same symptoms. It was a cracked heat exchanger.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Flashesbuck]

My furnace had the same symptoms. It was a cracked heat exchanger.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

wouldnt i see flame rollout with a cracked or rusted heat exchanger, or get corbon monoxcide inside the house?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Flashesbuck]

Remove the burners and wash them, water does a better job then anything else. Use a wire brush and make sure the section of the burner that goes over to the next burner in line is clean.

The problem you describe leans me towards it simply needing a proper cleaning rather then a valve replacement.

And this was it. I am someone mad at my self for not catching this, but i did learn something. The service guys was quite nice and helpful.

I simply was not being "rough" enough with them. He wiped out a wire brush and really scrubbed on them. I was concerned about damaging them. Also these channels, for the flame to wick across, are really small. I didn't even notes them.
Oh well, learned something. and glad it was something this simple.

 

[peter2772000]

Glad you got it figured out. I was just about to reiterate what many here already stated about the cleaning.

I'm a commercial HVAC contractor up here in Montreal and I have a side-discharge package unit outside my home for heating/cooling needs. Every fall I would anally blow out the burner section, make sure everything was clean and clear of cobwebs and the like.

About 3 yrs ago (unit's about 15 yrs old), it started having trouble lighting. It would light by the 2nd or 3rd try, but didn't sound right. I cleaned the ignition control ground, replaced the ignitor and flame sensor and re-checked the manifold pressure, everything seemed fine.

It finally got to the point where it'd lock out, which is what happens on my particular ignition control after three failed attempts. I checked it out and realized the flame wasn't continuing along to the 3rd or 4th flute. Crossovers (wings on each flute where the gas travels to light the next flute) were dirty/corroded. Took off the flutes and sandblasted them, followed by blowing out the sand from the flutes and orifices. That was the end of that problem.

 

[Flashesbuck]

Glad you got it figured out. I was just about to reiterate what many here already stated about the cleaning.

I'm a commercial HVAC contractor up here in Montreal and I have a side-discharge package unit outside my home for heating/cooling needs. Every fall I would anally blow out the burner section, make sure everything was clean and clear of cobwebs and the like.

About 3 yrs ago (unit's about 15 yrs old), it started having trouble lighting. It would light by the 2nd or 3rd try, but didn't sound right. I cleaned the ignition control ground, replaced the ignitor and flame sensor and re-checked the manifold pressure, everything seemed fine.

It finally got to the point where it'd lock out, which is what happens on my particular ignition control after three failed attempts. I checked it out and realized the flame wasn't continuing along to the 3rd or 4th flute. Crossovers (wings on each flute where the gas travels to light the next flute) were dirty/corroded. Took off the flutes and sandblasted them, followed by blowing out the sand from the flutes and orifices. That was the end of that problem.

This was my exact issue. Those crossover tubes are only about 1 or 2 mm big and never even noticed them. But hey, now i know. And the thing has lit the first time, every time sense they were cleaned.

Sent from my ONEPLUS A5000 using Tapatalk