PLEASE HELP - trying to install opener in low ceiling garage

[ReadyForWinter]

Hi Garage Journal-ers,

I am trying to install a garage door opener for a friend who doesn't have much money for home improvements. I'm pretty handy with tools and I'm good at reading directions

But I've gotten to the point where I'm totally stuck I'm hoping that you all might be able to tell me what will work and if DIY can take it on. I'm prepared to return the opener I bought at HD. If the job requires a professional, then my friend will wait till she has the money.

Here are the details:
My friend has a 1960's house with a single car garage. The door has side extension springs on the rails. The door itself is 8' wide x 79". The ceiling is quite low--it measures 85-1/2" from floor to ceiling.

I bought a Genie Excelerator II, 1500 1 HP, Direct Screw Drive DC Garage Door Opener. Home Depot was not helpful as we tried to identify an opener that would work with the low ceiling. I bought the Genie Excelerator II because a neighbor with the same style of house & garage installed it in his garage. It has flush-mounting capability.

I measured the distance from the highest part of the open door to the ceiling, 2-1/4". This is disappointing because the directions say I'm need to have 2-1/2" Also I noticed that the 2x6 header beam doesn't **** up against the ceiling. There is a 2-3/4" space above the header. The house is brick and I can see the back-side of the brick where the header leaves off.

There is 7-1/8" to left of the door and 10-1/4" to the right of the door.

I took PHOTOS in hopes that you all might be able to steer me in the right direction. https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#A4Gf693ZkpOqQ

Here's a link to info on the Genie Excelerator II: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Genie-Ex...ve-DC-Garage-Door-Opener-4062-TKNMV/203978703

I greatly appreciate any help you can offer. I'm glad I found this forum Thanks a lot!

 

[BFBOB]

Two thoughts - could you remove a small section of ceiling and mount the opener's head up in the joist cavity? Or, could you sidestep the whole issue by using a jackshaft opener? Sounds like not much room at the side of the door, but I don't know how much is required. Check it out, and good luck!

Oh, and welcome to GJ!

 

[drivesitfar]

the fix might be a side mounted garage opener that has a spring above the door. i just had one installed and it's a million % better than the noisy chain driven 1/2 HP Craftsman i installed myself almost 30 years ago.

post a few pictures of your door, hardware and the ceilings and we might be able to help more by seeing what you are talking about.

 

[upndown]

Can't use a jack shaft/ side mount operator on an extension spring doopr! Really tough to say for sure by the pics, but looking at the top fixtures, you may be able to lower those top fixtures and cut the same distance from the vertical tracks, lowering them enough to gain the clearance you need. Good luck

 

[ich_liebe_meine_arbeit]

Welcome to the forum, I had new garage doors installed on wed and they installed a garage door opener on one side that I had purchased from Sears when they were on sale. I too have low ceilings 7' to the bottom of the exposed floor joists. Tomorrow if I have time I will take some pics of the install and it may give you an idea.

 

[6t7gto]

I would fasten a piece of 1/4" steel to the header and fasten the rail as high as possible.
Maybe notch the drywall the length of the rail to get another 1/2" height.

 

[In The Doghouse]

I installed this chain drive earlier this year between a door and ceiling with a few inches of clearance. Worked out good for me.

 

[jeftec1]

Sorry for the upside down image. I think this might be what you need. It allows the top of the door to drop as it goes up the track so as not to rub up against the short ceiling.
This is on Amazon as a "low clearance bracket kit"

 

[23 CHIEF]

I had the exact same problem used these and fixed it

 

[ReadyForWinter]

Thanks, Chief and Jeftec1 -

I read about these low clearance brackets in another low ceiling post on GJ. But I'm wondering if they will work on a system with side extension springs? The highest roller on the door has its own rail. Does any body know?

Thanks 6t7gto for your idea to mount something above the header. Can you describe your 1/4" steel idea to me in more detail. I had thought about trying to switch the 2x6 header out for a 2x8 and mounting it against ceiling. The headers doesn't appear to be weight bearing. It is just toe-nailed into the vertical framing. I can see that nothing rests on top of the header. I like your idea of notching the drywall the length of the rail to get the extra 1/2" height.

Thanks upndown for clarifying about the Jacknife. I looked at the Chamberlain website last night. It only works with the torsion spring, not side extension springs.

I appreciate all the ideas from everyone.

 

[ReadyForWinter]

Hi upndown,

When you say I may be able to lower the top fixtures and cut off the same distance from the vertical tracks. Do you mean hang the end of the rails lower with adjustable metal strips? Then unscrew and use a hack saw to take the same distance off the vertical tracks? Would I the lower height of the rails affect the door in some way?

Thanks for the idea.

 

[ReadyForWinter]

Hi everyone,

Here are the photos of my door situation. https://www.icloud.com/photostream/#A4Gf693ZkpOqQ

I believe the side extension springs make it impossible for me to use a Jacknife system.

I considered upndown's idea of lowering the rails and shortening the verticals, but I'm not sure I have the know-how to do all that.

My idea of changing out the header might be too intensive....hmmm.

I'm wondering if it would work to attach a 2x4 (ripped to fit) to the top of the header. I could glue and toe nail it to the header. Maybe use a few flat steel brackets screwed in to reinforce the seam.

What do you think? I appreciate any ideas. Thanks!

 

[wintermute]

Since the objective here is to gain space between the ceiling and the face of the open door, the quick-turn brackets for the top of the door may be the easiest option as they'll allow the top roller of the top panel to ride in the lower track (laying flatter when open).

The next best option (in my opinion) would be lowering the tracks, which would require cutting the vertical pieces down by 1/2", and reattaching everything 1/2" lower than they are now and adjusting the position of the top panel rollers to properly close the opening (the arc of the track will be in a slightly different position relative to the door). This is substantially more work, but should operate with what you have on hand.

I would avoid notching the sheetrock to avoid possible inspection/fire code issues when it comes time to sell, especially if the space above in inhabited.

For either option, a simple wood block nailed/screwed into place in the gap above your header for the opener rail to attach would be suitable. no need to build something that spans the whole door.

Keep in mind that garage door springs are quite strong and can cause injury if improperly released while under load/tension. Personally, I know my way around torsion springs, as I've had to deal with mine. You'll need to look up how to safely work with your extension springs.

 

[BeachBoy]

I have the brackets and side springs.

I can take pictures. The door gets really really close to the ceiling.

 

[BeachBoy]

Here you go. The rail almost touches. The door goes straight back when opening. Works well.

 

[1jow]

I hope it's OK if I can join in on this info since I might have a similar matter (attached).

Will this option or others allow panel doors, tracks and side extension springs to fit under ceiling mounted storage cabinets? What is the “max height needed”, 7’-3” is what I have too the bottom of cabinets?

My challenge might occur due to not being able to find springs mounted from the lower door case to pivot arms to help lift non panel (framed garage doors). The original 1968 doors were lighter wood and hardboard design vs older heaver 2X4 and Ply doors. I built 1-1/4” X 1/8” angle iron frames and added 3/8” ply as stronger but light door.

I have found some info on Holmes E900 one piece garage door hardware set that is said to lift framed overhead doors w/o a track above as mine. I h/n found an individual or a showroom to see this hardware in use. Thanks for any help.