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Please recommend a soldering iron

pendragon1998

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I have an old Radio Shack soldering station, but I've never felt like it was particularly good. I rarely solder anyway, so maybe it's just me. But anyway...

I've got a project in mind that would require soldering connections onto LED COB strips, and I'd like to get a little pencil-style soldering iron to use - preferably one that doesn't ****. I'm not going to use it a ton, though, so I don't want to spend a fortune on it. Can anyone suggest something, preferably off Amazon?

Also, just to head off the conversation - I know that there are solderless snap connectors for LED strips, but I don't like them and I'd like to use wire for this project.
 
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jayemm

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I have an old Radio Shack soldering station, but I've never felt like it was particularly good. I rarely solder anyway, so maybe it's just me. But anyway...

I've got a project in mind that would require soldering connections onto LED COB strips, and I'd like to get a little pencil-style soldering iron to use - preferably one that doesn't ****. I'm not going to use it a ton, though, so I don't want to spend a fortune on it. Can anyone suggest something, preferably off Amazon?

Also, just to head off the conversation - I know that there are solderless snap connectors for LED strips, but I don't like them and I'd like to use wire for this project.
For the versatility of temperature adjustment and variety of tips, this beats the cheap (in more than one way) typical soldering pencil that sells for $20 or so. If I didn't have a Hakko soldering station already, this would be a good substitute considering the amount of soldering I do.

 

cgrutt

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Weller and Hakko are the big names. I just bought a Weller WE1010 to replace an older Weller station and am happy with it. Yihua is a knockoff I had ordered one that came with a solder rework (hot air) station for something like $69 but returned it. It worked I just wanted a better hot air station. I believe YiHua makes solder only stations for $25-$40. Believe the Weller was about $115 IIRC. Hakko is in the same price range as Weller.
 

Mike S.

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I've had this one for about 13 years and I used it almost daily for about 6 of them. No complaints thus far.

Weller WLC100

It wouldn't hurt to pick up a variety pack of tips for whichever soldering station that you choose. I always find myself using the chisel tips.

Weller ST Series Tip

As others have said, Weller and Hakko are the majors players. I don't think you could go wrong with either of them.
 

jayemm

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Weller and Hakko are the big names. I just bought a Weller WE1010 to replace an older Weller station and am happy with it. Yihua is a knockoff I had ordered one that came with a solder rework (hot air) station for something like $69 but returned it. It worked I just wanted a better hot air station. I believe YiHua makes solder only stations for $25-$40. Believe the Weller was about $115 IIRC. Hakko is in the same price range as Weller.
I bought my Hakko FX888 (manual knob, not digital temp adjustment) back in around 2014 and paid $80-85 for it . It's been great, used it more than I thought I would and would never go back to the cheap pencil irons I've had through the years from Radio Shack and Weller brand. The tips don't last, they run too hot, they're limited to one wattage and I spent more on them than the cost of a soldering station with interchangeable tips that are better quality. Though I have other tips, the small chisel tip that came standard with the Hakko has been nice. Haven't really kept up with prices but I remember Yihua were cheaper than Weller or Hakko and had positive reviews for the occasional user. Hot air and desoldering stations aren't on my radar because I don't do enough to justify them.
 

geojag

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I have always had good luck with Weller. A few years back I got a Milwaukee M12 soldering iron, I would have never guessed a battery powered soldering iron would work, but it does. I don't know that I would use if for super precise work though.
 

tamaraw

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I worked with an assortment of crappy equipment in school but ended up getting a Hakko FX888 for myself. I have used it on some harness building and pcb repair over the last few years and am quite pleased with the functionality.

It has digital control (with feedback), silicone cord insulation, a very stable holding/cleaning stand, and the whole thing just feels like it is built to last. Hakko being a major brand, there are also tons of tip shapes and spare parts available should you decide to branch out or do something else in the future.



 
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ronkz650

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I was in electronic repair business for 34 long years and for about 25 of them used the Weller solder irons/ stations in several different forms. Later I found Metcal. What a difference! It's hard to believe how much better a high quality iron is. I bought two metcal systems on ebay for around $100 each used. Best thing is they heat up and can be used in about 20 seconds, and won't cool down if solder job includes a lot of heavy work, and won't overheat the tip either. You buy different tips to get what you want in temperature and size and shape and swap the tips out in about 2 seconds if needed. One of my better upgrades over the years. Probably like everything else, hard to ever get a decent deal on used tools nowadays, but look for a used Metcal and good luck. Nothing compares.
 

mogandave

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I was in electronic repair business for 34 long years and for about 25 of them used the Weller solder irons/ stations in several different forms. Later I found Metcal. What a difference! It's hard to believe how much better a high quality iron is. I bought two metcal systems on ebay for around $100 each used. Best thing is they heat up and can be used in about 20 seconds, and won't cool down if solder job includes a lot of heavy work, and won't overheat the tip either. You buy different tips to get what you want in temperature and size and shape and swap the tips out in about 2 seconds if needed. One of my better upgrades over the years. Probably like everything else, hard to ever get a decent deal on used tools nowadays, but look for a used Metcal and good luck. Nothing compares.
I had two badass production solder stations I bought twenty years ago at Boeing surplus, I forget the brand but they were great. Gave one to a bud and one to my sister, she's still using it and nver had to replace the tip!
 

Firebrick43

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I use a t12 soldering station. I don't want to say its a clone of the hakko 888, because the controller is quite different, if not better due to additional features. It does use the same type of tip/heating element as the hakko 888 however. Genuine hakko tips are resonably priced so I have several but the SMD tip is the berries for most repair and of course populating SMD circuit boards. It to warms up in less than a min and is very consistent temp. You can also change tips without waiting for them to cool down as long as you have a place to dump the tip out while its hot. No tools needed.
 

dnschmidt

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I have two Weller. One soldering pencil and the other a soldering gun. Both older that used a unique Currie point method of controlling temperature. A pellet was attached to the back of the tip and when it reached a pre-set temperature the pellet would become non-magnetic and regulate temperature in this manner. I still have both and they both work great. Don't know if Weller still makes these sort of soldering irons anymore but mine still work great. Weller and Hakko are the top players in this market.
 

AdAstra

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Small/portable (needs separate external power supply, USB-C or barrel plug wall wart): Pinecil
Workstation: Hakko 888 (Wellers not as good in last decade or two)
Production grade: Metcal
For the latter two could look for used/surplus.
 
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Jack_K

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If you are wanting it to be cheap a Hakko 936 clone will do ok but if you can afford it definitely buy a real Hakko, Pace or Metcal.
 

Bert_

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Weller wp35 is a really good iron. I used to think I wanted a fancy adjustable temperature soldering station but that was when I was using a cheap iron. The blue Weller is the professional one.
 
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krole

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I'm a fan of the Hakko, I like the FX951 but that might be too much for you. If you won't use it a lot could look into T12 clones like from KSGER or others. TS100 is also a popular choice.
 

rlitman

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Heat is heat. I fail to understand how a digital Hakko clone station is any inferior to a Hakko when using Hakko tips and a heating element of the same wattage.

This one was $60 when I got it for my son. The price has risen, and you can surely find something cheaper (especially if you just want the iron) today.

What I will recommend though is a good assortment of genuine Hakko tips, and a genuine Hakko cleaner:

A word of caution. The knockoff tip cleaners either use steel wool plated to look like brass that quickly destroy the plating on your iron tips, or cheap out with undersized brass pads.
 

ronkz650

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The difference in a good system vs a lesser system is unbelievable until you try it yourself. Like I said, for years I used Weller, mostly the WP35. I thought it OK, and better than most, but here's the difference vs the Metcal with a 700 degree tip of the same basic width of the Weller.
Weller takes 4 minutes to warm up, Metcal 20 seconds.
Weller if left unused, heated up, will quickly burn the tip, as the heat at idle is way over 700 degrees, Metcal stays at 700.
Solder heavy jobs, such as copper heat syncs, ground connections, large guage wire ect, the Weller tip can't keep up and won't heat enough to melt solder. Metcal stays at 700 and will melt solder for any job.
Cool down on Weller takes 10 minutes or better, Metcal about 1 minute.
I would wager to bet almost all budget irons or stations would be similar or even worse than the Weller.
So all irons are not created equal, they won't do the same job. Just for info, and my opinion as someone who soldered for a living.
 

Rabid Badger

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If you're going to be working on LED COBs with large aluminum substrates, a direct-heat iron like a Pinecil will outperform an old-style Hakko 888D or Weller 1010.

The Pinecil has the advantage of being able to run off of a USB-PD powerbank as well.
 

bwringer

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I'm a member of the snot-yellow battery religion, and I've been eyeballing a cordless soldering iron... reviews are pretty good.


Might be worth a think if you are a paid-up member of a particular battery religion and they offer such a thing, and soldering in vehicles or otherwise away from a wall socket appeals to you.
 

rlitman

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What temperature do you set it at for tinning wires?
Depends on what sort of solder you're using, and the wire gauge, but when working in my shop with Sn63/Pb37, I can get away with as little as about 360C in my Hakko style station for fine stuff, and may need to go a little over 380C on as big as 12AWG wires. Though I try to use as much pre-tinned wire as possible. Inside, with the lead-free station, I need to work a little hotter.
 

SwissMetric

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Weller or Ersa are both popular here, I use both. IIRC the very basic Weller Magnastat is probably over 30 years old and it still works great though I don't use it often. Was surprised that the heating resistor is still the original one.
 

Wamsutta

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Depends on what sort of solder you're using, and the wire gauge, but when working in my shop with Sn63/Pb37, I can get away with as little as about 360C in my Hakko style station for fine stuff, and may need to go a little over 380C on as big as 12AWG wires. Though I try to use as much pre-tinned wire as possible. Inside, with the lead-free station, I need to work a little hotter.
Let's say 20 AWG. I had to tin some wires on my car today and all I have is an old Weller soldering gun. I got the wires tinned, but the insulation at the beginning of the stripped section probably got a little hotter than it needed to.
 

rlitman

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Let's say 20 AWG. I had to tin some wires on my car today and all I have is an old Weller soldering gun. I got the wires tinned, but the insulation at the beginning of the stripped section probably got a little hotter than it needed to.
That's usually a sign the iron is too cold. Warm it up and work faster. The down side to warming the iron up is you need to do everything faster, because the solder oxidizes on the tip faster too.
 

Wamsutta

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That's usually a sign the iron is too cold. Warm it up and work faster. The down side to warming the iron up is you need to do everything faster, because the solder oxidizes on the tip faster too.
What do you recommend for a soldering iron I can use on a car? I'm assuming a soldering station is not the ideal iron for portability.
 

rlitman

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What do you recommend for a soldering iron I can use on a car? I'm assuming a soldering station is not the ideal iron for portability.
Well, the station base isn't great in a vehicle, but the Hakko in the 2nd post of this thread basically has all the functions normally done by the base built into the handle. So that's a good choice if you want to work off a 120V extension cord.

If you're more technically inclined, the Pinecil and TS100 series of irons works off USB (so it's easy to adapt to a car battery or cordless battery), and while tips cost more, they're also faster to respond to temperature changes than the older Hakko style. Not a huge deal for you, but closer to state of the art.
 

Wamsutta

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Well, the station base isn't great in a vehicle, but the Hakko in the 2nd post of this thread basically has all the functions normally done by the base built into the handle. So that's a good choice if you want to work off a 120V extension cord.

If you're more technically inclined, the Pinecil and TS100 series of irons works off USB (so it's easy to adapt to a car battery or cordless battery), and while tips cost more, they're also faster to respond to temperature changes than the older Hakko style. Not a huge deal for you, but closer to state of the art.
Which type of tip is best for tinning wires? I'm assuming the chisel tip would be the best.
 

rooster59

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i made a decent heat control from a 3-wire cord, square metal box, 1 duplex outlet, 1 twist knob fan control. Weller WP35 plugs in, works great.
 
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