Please review my 40x60 Garage Quote

[jtwoods4]

Hey all,

Today I received the final quote from the Metal Building contractors I have been talking with. These guys are top notch and do very good work, I have seen their building before. This quote is for a 40x60 metal building + slab + electrical. Please review the quote and let me know if the price seems decent.

TOTAL COST = $74,800.00

HERE ARE ALL THE DETAILS
Permits:
Cost of permits by owner, contractor to do building drawings. If site plan is required, cost to be added.

Grading:
Cost of grading to be added.

Slab:
Furnish labor and materials to install 40’-0” wide by 60’-0” long,
5” thick concrete slab with fiber mesh, 6 mil poly for vapor barrier. A 12” wide by 16” deep continuous grade beam will be installed around perimeter of slab with two #4 rebars. Footings at main columns will be 3’-6” square by 3’-0” deep. Footings at end wall columns will be 2’-0” square by 2’-0” deep. A 3 ½” metal keykold expansion joint will be installed every 20’-0” across width of slab and down center of slab.
After concrete has been smooth trowel finished, a sealer and curing compound will be applied to the slab. Concrete will be 3,000 P.S.I. at the age of 28 days. *Note: Slab will be thickened for a 2 post lift as required.

Building and Erection:
1. Furnish one pre-engineered metal building, 40’-0” wide by 60’-0” long.
2. 16’-0” eave height.
3. One on twelve roof slope.
4. Bay spacing will be on 30’-0” centers.
5. Wall sheets will be 26 gauge with factory baked on paint with fasteners to match.
6. Roof sheets will be 26 gauge Galvalume screw down with stainless steel cap fasteners with manufacturer’s 20 year guarantee.
7. Gutters, down spouts and trim will be 26 gauge with factory baked on paint.
8. (4) 3’-0” wide by 10’-0” long roof skylights with insulation trim strips.
9. (2) 3070 metal walk doors with lever handle mortise keyed locks and thresholds.
10. (2) 12’-0” wide by 12’-0” high 24 gauge overhead doors.
11. Building to be designed for full 20 pound loading and for 115 M.P.H wind and 2016 International Building Code with three pounds per square foot roof collateral load and five pound per square foot ground snow load.

Insulation:
Roof and walls to have 4” thick fiberglass insulation with reinforced white vinyl backing.

Electrical:
(1) One hundred amp single phase panel and disconnect, (2) GFCI
outlets, (6) 110 volt shop outlets, (2) 3-way switches, (2) emergency exit combos with battery packs, (1) 20 amp car lift, (6) 400 watt hi-bays, (1) 400 watt wall pack on outside of building with photo cell. This is based on tying into existing house panel.

Clean Up:
Clean up all excess materials and haul to an approved land fill.
This does not include any site work, grading, sewer, storm drain, or any interior finish other than electrical. This does not include cost of any permits or site plan if required.
Contractor will furnish “builder’s risk” and “general liability” insurance while building is in construction.
We sell metal buildings that are supplied by an American company, designed
and detailed in America, made from steel manufactured in America and fabricated in American-owned facilities.

 

[jtwoods4]

Thank you very much for the response and pointing out the things I need to ask questions about. Right now I'm really trying to determine if the price they gave me is decent for all the things listed above.

 

[n20junkie]

Rebar is always needed IMHO. Fiber does not replace steel.

 

[bczygan]

Impossible to do well and in detail, without complete plans, specifications and an itemized bid.

 

[bczygan]

Get at least 3 bids from qualified contractors and compare apples to apples.

 

[never enuf time]

1/12 Roof ? would want 4/12 min.

 

[Shawn S]

Where are you located? That will help determine certain things (such as the roof slope mentioned above).

 

[mopar440_6]

I had a 40'x80' steel building quoted in PA about 2 years ago. Not including electrical or grade work it came in around $120K. The electrical in the 50'x60' pole building I ended up going with cost me around $12K. So, I would call that quote reasonable based purely off the details posted.

Things to note:
-Permits around here cost roughly 1% of the total building cost but can get salty real quick depending on the locale.
-Grading is expensive. I had roughly $20K into that alone and I should still have a landscaper come in and do proper finish grading.
-As mentioned, fiber doesn't replace steel. You need rebar or heavy mesh, steel is steel just make sure there's enough.
-Figure out what lift you want and get the specs for the concrete. 3KSI may not be enough.
-Expansion joints on 20'x20' seems a bit too spaced out. I would likely ask for 4 joints across and 2 down the length at minimum. Also, I would have concerns about having joints around the column footings.

Otherwise, just make sure to get everything down to the last detail spelled out in writing. Hope this helps...

 

[pmiranda]

From other posts, I gather that the OP (John) is north of Atlanta.
So A high pitch doesn't seem too important for snow load.
I'm surprised they can do 30' bays.

 

[fabjunkie]

Again location helps.

My 36x50, w/ 18x10 door, 10x10 door, one 3070 door, 4/12 pitch, 6" insulation, dirt work, slab with rebar, perimeter beam and interior beams, 900 sqft of driveway, no electrical was $35k built this summer.

 

[matt_i]

$30/sf seems about right to me.

I would ask for 3:12 pitch minimum, the 1:12 is a very flat industrial roof. Also you can have overhangs like a traditional wood-trussed building added in. Its a bit more steelwork, but its light-duty stuff comparatively.

Two #4 rebars in the whole thing don't give me confidence. I haven't seen the expansion joint up close but would be a little worried about the slab wanting to potentially move if not pinned together there. More traditional would be wire mesh reinforcement mats (built flat, stay flat) hooked into place and saw cuts done the day after the pour. If it were me, I'd skip the fibermesh and go with actual steel reinforcement.

 

[ZipSnafu]

I did the fiber mesh in my 40x60 and I really like it. After 12 years so far not one crack.

 

[MagKarl]

I'd get at least one 14' tall door since you have the eave height to do it.

 

[readhead]

As a building supplier and erector I have a few comments. Clearly you are not in a high snow load location. I would place rebar in the slab but that may not be normal practice for your area. I would go with insulated OH doors. The insulation stiffens the door and why would you insulate the building and not the doors? I usually put light panels high on the side walls rather than the roof because of the potential of someone stepping through them. The 2016 code is indicated but 4" insulation doesn't jive with that unless there is a allowance for out buildings.

30' bays are common and not an issue. Roof overhangs are about the most expensive option you can put on a metal building. Why the emergency lights? Is this for commercial use? The collateral load seems excessive unless you are hanging a lot of stuff from the roof. Typically one pound will cover lights, duct etc. You are paying extra for that. 240 V will be available in the panel.

As Bill mentioned you should be starting with plans not the building supplier. This is a very common problem that I have to deal with quite often. I have to back the customer up into the design phase before we can quote a building. More slope on the roof will not make it perform any better and will raise the cost of the building.

The price seems to be in line with what is quoted. I can read between the lines of the quote and it is actually pretty complete. A lot of information is assumed when quoting a metal building but if it will make you more comfortable ask him to flesh out some of the details.

 

[Know Wosad]

Two number 4 rebars in a "beam" ? ToysRus concrete inc ?

 

[readhead]

The concrete at the edge is not actually a grade beam. It is just a turned down edge. The only bearing for the building is at the columns. Two #4's is fine.