please, school me on air hammer/chisel

[t100]

I don't have one, never used one but everybody is telling me I'd better get one.

first thing while doing my homework on it, what's the pro's and con's of long barrel vs. short barrel air hammers?

so, let the lesson begin.

 

[Seanbev24]

Long barrels hit harder, short barrels hit faster. For regular automotive work, I haven't found any case where a short barrel is preferred. Maybe they're good for body work or something? I have a short craftsman that just collects dust. My long barrel air hammer is a Snap-on PH3050A, which is by far the best I've ever used with the standard .401" bit size.

 

[woody 73]

I like the bits from a company called ( Old Forge tools) to use in your air hammer. I am not sure if snap on makes their own or who makes them for snap on but over the years I have had good luck with their products.

Maybe someone else can chime in they might have some other names that they like too use.

 

[t100]

what do you guys say about the quick release coupler? is it a good upgrade from the standard spring bit holder?

 

[KenB]

Ah, yes. Then you'll want to investigate the secret Norwegian Torque Wrench Technique, known only to Roger Welsch readers.


Ken

 

[Seanbev24]

what do you guys say about the quick release coupler? is it a good upgrade from the standard spring bit holder?

Yes, totally worth the extra money.

 

[wafrederick]

Mayhew makes air chisel bits too,they make Matco's air chisel bits.Snap On has a new air hammer out that kicks ***.Removes rivets with no problems at all.My father's friend Rich has one and likes it.

 

[7.62]

Yes, totally worth the extra money.

What he said. Absolutely worth it.

 

[JASTECH]

Is there a kit to convert spring to new coupler style?

 

[DrkMtnDew]

generally in automotive a long stroke is the better hammer. a short stroke is better for use as a scraper or for shaping metal. also it is nice to get a hammer with a built in dial regular for time when you don't need full power, for instance installing valve guides. the quick coupler is an absolute must have in my opinion. saves a lot of time and broken springs. as far as bits go, buy good ones (Old Forge, SO, etc.), it will save you in the long run. cheap bits mushroom out real fast if you get a descent hammer.

One last thing do yourself a favor and buy some good impact-rated gloves. your hands/arms will thank you at the end of a long day or long project. Ear plugs aren't a bad idea either.

 

[The Dutchman]

I've never figured out how to keep the chisel attachment from flying off the spring style retainer. So I got a quick release retainer. Worth every penny & I won't use a spring type retainer again.

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

School is open:

For automotive work, get a Snap-on PH 3050A with a quick release retainer and whatever Snap-on chisels you need.

School is closed.

 

[6-Speed]

I have an IR118Max air hammer with the quick change retainer. When I install a bit in the retainer it keeps the bit from coming out, but I can still slide the bit fore-aft about 3/4" within the retainer. I would have expected the bit to be better secured so it doesn't move back and forth. Is this normal?

 

[ihateminimumwage]

One of the only things I ever bought off the Matco truck, and have used it on a regular basis the last 3 years. Saved my *** recently trying to fight out a rusted in bearing race from my Dana 60 knuckle. Don't think I could've got to it without (not enough room for a hammer and chisel). I paid full price off the truck, but if you do some research, I'm sure you can find who makes it for them, at half the price...
http://www.matcotools.com/catalog/product/MT1724K/7-PIECE-AIR-HAMMER-KIT/

 

[Moose-LandTran]

I didn't think i needed on until i got one. Don't know how i managed without one or why i went so long without one. IR 117 can be had cheap and is good, but a 118MAX is a true beast and is hard to beat.

The amount of uses you find for an air hammer when you have one is crazy. Certainly a must-have tool that makes so many hard jobs a breeze.

I have an IR118Max air hammer with the quick change retainer. When I install a bit in the retainer it keeps the bit from coming out, but I can still slide the bit fore-aft about 3/4" within the retainer. I would have expected the bit to be better secured so it doesn't move back and forth. Is this normal?

Yes, that is because the hammer hitting the back of the chisel moves it forward in that space. The retainer only stops the chisel falling/shooting out of the air hammer.

 

[vssjim]

CP 714 for small bore work and a CP717 when things need to get serious, Ajax brand tool bits and quick change retainers are the way to go, they have great US quality and are priced fantastic.

 

[Brad54]

I've got a Snap-on PH50E that I picked up brand-new at a yard sale about 15 or 16 years ago... The price-tag on it was hand-written, and said "100" rather sloppily... I handed the tool to the lady so she could write down the price in the notebook and she said "That'll be one dollar."
I ran all the way to the car.

Anyway, I haven't used it A TON, but I've certainly used it a good bit... It's ideal for breaking rivets on ball joints, removing old bushing shells from control arms, etc. etc. If you don't go balls-out wide open on the thing, and use controlled bursts, it's wonderful for separating sheet metal spot welds during floor pan and body panel remove-and-replace projects. They can definitely be a finesse tool, but are rarely used that way. If you do ANY restoration work, it's a must-have.
Mine has the spring retainer on it, and I've never seen the reason to go to the other solid-style chuck.

I've never broken the spring on mine either.
What's the advantage to the solid style chuck, or keeper?

-Brad

 

[EvilWelder]

Look at AJAX bits for your hammer, USA made and reasonably priced.

 

[MechanicNamedJohn]

Is there a kit to convert spring to new coupler style?

Yes, I have a Mac one, screws on where spring was. But, there is a ton available from other companies.

 

[ihateminimumwage]

Mine has the spring retainer on it, and I've never seen the reason to go to the other solid-style chuck.

I've never broken the spring on mine either.
What's the advantage to the solid style chuck, or keeper?

-Brad

Never had a spring break on one of the stubby hammers, but they do wear out pretty bad with a lot of use. I used my uncles one day, and it was so worn it would shoot the bit out across the shop if you hit the trigger when it wasn't pressed against what you were working on.

 

[Catalyze]

I have used an Ingersoll Rand long barrel hammer for about 15 years with no problems. I got a quick change chuck from the Snap On man about 2 hours after I bought the hammer. It is a thing of beauty and function....don't leave home without it. For implements of destruction, I use Old Forge. Keep it oiled and don't forget to wear hearing protection. I have used mine for a variety of projects but it has spent most of its life changing ball joints.
Craig

 

[rodm1]

I like the bits from a company called ( Old Forge tools) to use in your air hammer. I am not sure if snap on makes their own or who makes them for snap on but over the years I have had good luck with their products.

Maybe someone else can chime in they might have some other names that they like too use.

Old Forge, Ajax, Mayhew, and probable any other Made in the USA versions are good.

They make working under a car way easier. Get a Lisle pickle fork attachment for front end work.

 

[Hanen42]

+1 on the Lisle pickle fork tool! BTW I'm pretty sure this is who makes Matco's version. Look at the picture set up between Lisle and Matco on their respective websites. Save yourself some money and go Lisle. I ordered a set at work and never looked back. I also picked up the U joint driver from Lisle as well.

 

[Bryanthegreat]

If only doing sheet metal work the short style is nice and doesn't beat you up as badly. I have had bits fly out of spring retainers and after prolonged use the bit will cut through the spring. I always bought truck brand bits that they were willing to warranty against breakage. It wound up being a better deal than buying cheapies.

 

[6-Speed]

Here's the IR118Max next to a 1/2" drive impact gun. Waiting for some Milton M-style steel plugs to arrive before I check it out.

I have a set of Grey Pneumatic bits for DIY work.

 

[jrlp]

Old forge tools, at least the bits I've bought through tooltopia, are rebadged mayhew. They come in cardboard holders with shrink wrap. The cardboard says Old Forge, but the bites themselves say Mayhew on them.

 

[hunterguy86]

Look at AJAX bits for your hammer, USA made and reasonably priced.

These are very popular in the fire service. We run these on our engines and have no problems.

 

[Subytech]

I have a short barrel IR..it really packs a punch.I'm happy with it.

 

[cheechi]

busting rivets, busting old/incorrect welds, they're great. I got to use one when I was brand new in the shop, they gave me the **** repetitive jobs. I had a long stroke one similar to the IR pictured above, but with the spring. I've got a short stroke one at home with the chuck style, it's less to hassle with. I learned with those to always use a regulator on the tool, a few seconds beating on something at full power was all that I really needed with those tasks, otherwise wide open was way too much.

The springs can break, but most of the time they wear 'sprung' in my experience. If you take care of them, they won't get brittle enough to crack and break. Think of the guys who take a torch to their car springs to lower it, then they found out afterward they made it brittle and they crack. That's what can happen to air hammer springs if you let it. So yes it's a dangerous situation that can happen, but it's not one of those 'definitely will happen to the springs so definitely get the chuck' type things.

 

[JKady]

I use the snot out of my IR 118, mostly with my pickle forks, but there are few tools short of an actual electric shear that are as much a joy to cut sheet metal with as this hammer and a shearing chisel.

 

[rodm1]

This ball joint tool looks promising to.

 

[Lkdelta]

Any body know if Chicago Pneumatic is still as good as it used to be?

Here's the new one
http://www.tooltopia.com/chicago-pn...oglebase_18u&gclid=CIqkivvTuLICFYWo4AodNEYAIA

here's the old one....