Please Splane about Planes

[gahrajmahal]

Our old house shifts, especially when we have those late summer droughts, which we had a doozy this year. Our front door was sticking big time so I used my vixen file (auto body tool) and some sandpaper on a block to relieve the top corner of the door so it would open easily. At the time I was wondering if I should be using a Wood Plane to do the job, like Norm Abrahm would conveniently whip out of his pocket. A few shavings would have been much neater than sandpaper!

Today I went to our local “Habitat for Humanity” store to drop off some of my son’s castoffs from his room addition project. The last time there they were real picky about the items, so I planned to be pissed off and leave without shopping in the store! Well, they were very nice and took almost my whole truckload
Walking around I found that they wanted their stuff more than I did (pipe dream pricing) but I came a small collection of wood planes priced to sell, $1.10

I’m hoping to get my first “you ****” for this savvy purchase.

So, what can you tell me about this little Stanley plane I purchased? Is this the type of thing one could remove a few thousandths off a door top so it doesn’t stick anymore? I’m showing a photo of our basement bathroom door that trapped grandson #1 inside this weekend (you have to push down on the door knob to unstick the door. It seems reasonably sharp but the slot the blade sticks through doesn’t allow much space for the wood shaving to slide through. There is no adjustment for the blade angle either. I’m trying to shave from the end grain portion of the door.

Let me know if this is the right tool for the job,
Thanks!

 

[seber]

I don't know what it is worth but that is the same model I've been using to shave doors for over 60 years.

 

[RTM]

That would not be my first choice, looks like a 102, edit: oops, actually a 110 but I have a few hundred to choose from, about 20-25 would do the job easily. For end grain, a low angle plane is preferred, and for me it would be a 60-1/2 plane that I grabbed first.

The second choice, once I realized it was going slower than preferred due to the small size, small mass, less ergonomics, would be to grab a bigger plane, so either a Veritas Lee Valley low angle smooth #4 or jack #5, but probably not found used easily.

If it was an awkward position, and I might drop my plane, a 118 might get grabbed, which was a sheet metal plane built for Manual Training (school kids). Still a low angle plane with adjustable blade.

The reasons the 60-1/2 would be my first choice? Good ergonomics in the hand, adjustable mouth, and adjustable blade position, great for adjusting the depth of cut for the awkward position you are working in. Plus my first Block Plane, so special place in my heart.

I would also think about a regular #4 or #5 plane, as the door top is mostly long grain, just end grain on the edge 3-4". Mostly cuz those are easy to find for cheap.

 

[Blueshound_GJ]

Our old house shifts, especially when we have those late summer droughts, which we had a doozy this year. Our front door was sticking big time so I used my vixen file (auto body tool) and some sandpaper on a block to relieve the top corner of the door so it would open easily. At the time I was wondering if I should be using a Wood Plane to do the job, like Norm Abrahm would conveniently whip out of his pocket. A few shavings would have been much neater than sandpaper!

Today I went to our local “Habitat for Humanity” store to drop off some of my son’s castoffs from his room addition project. The last time there they were real picky about the items, so I planned to be pissed off and leave without shopping in the store! Well, they were very nice and took almost my whole truckload
Walking around I found that they wanted their stuff more than I did (pipe dream pricing) but I came a small collection of wood planes priced to sell, $1.10

I’m hoping to get my first “you ****” for this savvy purchase.

So, what can you tell me about this little Stanley plane I purchased? Is this the type of thing one could remove a few thousandths off a door top so it doesn’t stick anymore? I’m showing a photo of our basement bathroom door that trapped grandson #1 inside this weekend (you have to push down on the door knob to unstick the door. It seems reasonably sharp but the slot the blade sticks through doesn’t allow much space for the wood shaving to slide through. There is no adjustment for the blade angle either. I’m trying to shave from the end grain portion of the door.

Let me know if this is the right tool for the job,
Thanks!

That plane should work great for that if you sharpen and tune it. If you need to plane toward the edge of the door, clamp a backer on it so it doesn't split.

 

[tarmy]

First off…you don’t lay any plane on the face or blade down. Lay them on their side so as to not damage the blade…

Now that I have admonished you…some thoughts…

There is a good likelihood that you could splinter the edge of that door with a plane…so there is a trick to avoid that. When you slide the plane along the edge do it at an angle with a sharp blade so it cuts those outside edges from the outside… in…pushing the grain into the rest of the wood as a backer.

Me, I would use a orbital sander or attach a fence and use a sharp blade on a circular saw if it was more than 1/8” to be removed.

 

[RTM]

you don’t lay any plane on the face or blade down. Lay them on their side so as to not damage the blade

Ok Boomer (from another) you obviously had that drilled into your head by a similar minded shop teacher, but you smiling after the admonishing tells me you don't believe it either.

 

[Fixr]

Ok Boomer (from another) you obviously had that drilled into your head by a similar minded shop teacher, but you smiling after the admonishing tells me you don't believe it either.

Heathen that I am, I store my planes blade down on anti-corrosive paper from random sources. Haven't ruined one yet.

 

[tarmy]

Ok Boomer (from another) you obviously had that drilled into your head by a similar minded shop teacher, but you smiling after the admonishing tells me you don't believe it either.

My gramps taught me a lot about wood working…he had a small shop and I loved learning from him in my young teens.

He was a WWI vet, cigar smoking no ******** type of guy…I was the only person he let in that shop as he knew I was safe and loved working with him. HOWEVER, he had rules, mostly safety related, but rules. You don’t break rules or there will be consequence…

I am merely passing along 50 plus year old admonishments I received. I learned the term My house My rules during that time.

 

[The Cobbler]

to plane end grain with a hand plane, you need very sharp blade and not too heavy of a cut.

 

[Max]

to plane end grain with a hand plane, you need very sharp blade and not too heavy of a cut.

I’ll add that every time that I thought my blade was sharp enough or my technique good enough events proved me wrong. I’d add a backer board as well.

 

[Ohio Andy]

If you need to sharpen the blade and you happen to be wandering up to Columbus Ohio, let me know. We can make it sharp....

That reminds me. I need try my number one plane I just got. Lots going on right now..

 

[RTM]

That reminds me. I need try my number one plane I just got.

Be gentle, those handles are tiny. I can only wrap my pinky and ring finger in them.

 

[Ohio Andy]

Be gentle, those handles are tiny. I can only wrap my pinky and ring finger in them.

When I ordered it, I didn't realize exactly how small that body would be.... Well okay, I know how small the body would be. I didn't realize how small the handles would be... I don't think I'll bother getting a number two or a number three. I already had one and I gave it to a friend

 

[RTM]

I don't think I'll bother getting a number two or a number three. I already had one and I gave it to a friend

I have a number three, and it's barely usable with my hands. I'd purchase a #2 if it fell into my hands for a good price, but not expect it to be a user. Just like my #1.

LV make a nice bevel up #1 that is essentially a block plane w a tote. Have not put it to use yet, saving it for when you want small, like a block, but more usable.

 

[Wolley]

If the top of the door is rubbing I think you'd be better off cutting off an 1/8 inch with a circular saw then painting it. The doors might move less if the ends are sealed

 

[gahrajmahal]

All great advice, I appreciate it. When I was growing up there was a large plane with our workbench but I never saw anyone use it. I occasionally would mess with it, but I was never building anything with wood. Please explain what a proper bevel is on a plane and how you go about achieving it. I understand the base needs to be relatively flat, but this cheap plane I just got has no blade angle adjustment as it relates to the base. I get the sacrificial block idea and will do that. Just a quick tutorial to help me get started.

 

[Ohio Andy]

I have a number three, and it's barely usable with my hands. I'd purchase a #2 if it fell into my hands for a good price, but not expect it to be a user. Just like my #1.

LV make a nice bevel up #1 that is essentially a block plane w a tote. Have not put it to use yet, saving it for when you want small, like a block, but more usable.

Mine is like Nielsen.

No. 1 Bench Plane, Iron

No. 1 Iron Bench Plane Based on the famous Stanley No. 1, this miniature Bench Plane handles like a block plane and is wonderfully suitable for fine detail work and final touches. 5-1/2" (14cm) long Blade is 1-3/16" (3cm) x .110" (2.79mm) thick. Weight is 1.35 lbs. (612 grams)

www.lie-nielsen.com

 

[Ohio Andy]

All great advice, I appreciate it. When I was growing up there was a large plane with our workbench but I never saw anyone use it. I occasionally would mess with it, but I was never building anything with wood. Please explain what a proper bevel is on a plane and how you go about achieving it. I understand the base needs to be relatively flat, but this cheap plane I just got has no blade angle adjustment as it relates to the base. I get the sacrificial block idea and will do that. Just a quick tutorial to help me get started.

You should probably sharpen that the angle that's already on the existing blade, which is probably about 25°.

The plan itself should already set the angle at the appropriate level, so it's just not something you probably need to worry about.

Usually what I would do is flatten the back and then I would sharpen the blade. Why would I flatten the back? Well it's because if the back is flat, the blade will be more uniformly sharp. I mean there's more to say than that, but it probably doesn't matter to understand all of it.

But, all of my planes have a flat back and you don't have to flatten the entire thing, you only care about where the blade meets the front. Actually with a plain blade it's not as important and then there's the ruler trick to put a very very slight back bevel...

But, as long as things meet mostly okay and your blade is mostly sharp....

The question becomes, how do you sharpen the blade? I have special things I use to sharpen a plain blade, and I would usually put I hollow bevel by sharpening on a sharpening wheel and a sharpening wheel is radius so it's not perfectly flat, and then that makes it easier to freehand sharpen.

A lot of people buy specialized things to hold the plane blade at exactly the right angle as they go over their sharpening stone or even their sandpaper to sharpen that blade. They would probably use the term. Scary sharp if you're looking for a Google term.

Or you can just freehand the blade. Just hold it at what you think is the same angle. The blade is currently sharpened and then just go for it. If you royally screw it up, send me the blade. I'll send it back Sharp. But if the blade is already sharp, you might just be good to go. But for $1.10 it probably isn't

 

[pfaustus]

No collector's first choice in block planes. They sold a gazillion over a century or so. 'cause they were cheap and they worked. Sharpen the blade up and it will work fine.

You don't need a jig. Cut a 6" piece of cardboard into a triangle with a 25 degree angle. Lean it up next to the blade as you sharpen to help keep it at the correct angle.

It is going to take a while. It isn't going to be just a minute or just a dozen strokes bringing an old dull blade back to life. The most common problem is failure to spend enough time on the roughest grit.

A piece of paper under the front tip of the body of the plane, when you put the blade in, is a good starting point for depth of cut. Tap the blade lightly on the back to push it in further, if that isn't enough. Too much. Start over, maybe with a thicker piece of paper.

 

[gahrajmahal]

Ohio Andy and pfaustus thanks for the tips. I have a woodworking project I think I’m going to do for a Christmas present so I can cut a nice wood block at 25 deg. for a jig. I get the flat back statement too, so I have a nice starting point. If I’m thinking about how much blade protrudes down as a cutting edge from the base, what’s a good measurement? .100? .060? .030?

 

[Ohio Andy]

Ohio Andy and pfaustus thanks for the tips. I have a woodworking project I think I’m going to do for a Christmas present so I can cut a nice wood block at 25 deg. for a jig. I get the flat back statement too, so I have a nice starting point. If I’m thinking about how much blade protrudes down as a cutting edge from the base, what’s a good measurement? .100? .060? .030?

Start with none and slowly make it a bit more.... And a bit more... Until it takes the thinnest shaving you can imagine.... Really? You can keep pushing it out until you think it's a little crazy, but, the thicker it is, the harder it's going to be, and the more likely it's going to rip bad things out of your wood and just straight up not work well.

Take a board you don't care much about and maybe try a few shavings while doing this on a scrap board that you don't care about at all.

In fact, to make it even easier, maybe what you start by shaving is shave a corner edge off a board as though you wanted to round it off. That way your first shavings will be right on that corner edge. That's very thin and shouldn't take much effort to remove it.

Then Little bit and you'll very quickly get a feel for how much is too much. And what works great on one board might be terrible on another depending on the type of wood, the grain in the wood, if you're going with the grain or against the grain, if you are using end grain like you probably have on the top of that door, you need a thinner shaving usually....

And if this all sounds complicated now you know why someone said just take a circular saw and shave a 16th of an inch or an eighth of an inch off the top of the door.

I bought my first hand plane for exactly this application and after reading all these things online I was so paranoid. I purchased a super expensive high-end plane that I knew would come with a fully sharpened blade.

Now I sharpen my own blades. Just give it a try on a piece of wood before you try the door.

 

[gahrajmahal]

Andy, awesome information, not only for myself but for others that might read this thread in the future.

 

[jar944]

Get one of these $9 honing guides to sharpen the plane iron. You can use some wet/dry sandpaper (400-2000) to sharpen initially.

They're cheap, and work well.

 

[milkovich]

Just to add, since block planes are "bevel up" you can put a lowish angle on it like 25 degrees which will help go through the end grain on that door a little better. A higher bevel would leave a better finish on long grain. The entire trick with planes is how sharp they are and sharpening is a skill you can devote endless time to. I would buy a little eclipse style jig and a glass plate and invest some time in some sharpening videos on youtube. That said, everyone eventually arrives at their own "formula" for sharpening so don't be afraid to do what works. As much as I love old planes, you may eventually want to invest in a new stanley 12-960, nowhere near as nice as a vintage 60 1/2 but they are serviceable and easier to use than a 110.

 

[hefnerconstructionlc]

Put some wax on the sole before use and during as it wears off. It will make it where much less effort is required.

 

[cvairwerks]

Some of the ultimate in plane work: