Plomb tool picture thread - show your stuff!

[RubiconJK]

Plomb and JO go together like PB&J.

"We were like peas and carrots, Jenny and I"!

 

[four.cycle]

looks like there may be issues with the detent ball, and it's been reassembled bass-ackwards (which is easily correctable):

https://www.ebay.com/itm/284262598676

listed this morning at 05:36 PDT

 

[Shelbylex]

Interesting - there was a PROTO 3/4 ratchet for sale in MA with the same problem. Do guys get confused that often when cleaning things?

 

[Outlawmws]

They are just not paying attention generally - unless they really want the selector facing out so it's more accessible in situ. I could see that being deliberate for some specific use, especially with the big ones.

 

[d42jeep]

The retaining ball being out of commission is a much larger problem than reassembling the ratchet correctly. I’ve received several that were assembled incorrectly.
-Don

 

[four.cycle]

^ me too.

I've had a couple I was able to get back into operational order by feeding "Marvel Mystery Oil" into the pocket while pressing the detent ball down, but that RTEC spinner was a no-go.

Might well be a deal-killer.

I only posted as an FYI for you guys. That's less than what I paid for one last week, although I think the one I'm waiting for delivery on is in better shape (and put together properly.)

 

[damon18]

Picked up a ton of old tools, included with some tool boxes I bought. (Swore I wouldn't do this again, but really wanted the KR-537 and the seller would only sell the lot.)

Anyway, among the tonnage were some 3/4 drive sockets of multiple USA makers, and this Plomb 5668 3/4 breaker bar.

But when I googled it the images for the 5668 showed a 3/4 breaker bar with a round handle. Did they make it both ways or am I reading the number wrong?

Sent from my SM-G973U using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[Provincial]

They used the same number for a given design (ratchet, extension, breaker bar, etc.) regardless of the changing design details.

 

[d42jeep]

My mystery sockets came out of the evaporust. They are still pretty ugly but less of a mystery. I don’t collect WF so if anybody needs a WF-77 give me a holler.
-Don

 

[DD T/A]

The retaining ball being out of commission is a much larger problem than reassembling the ratchet correctly. I’ve received several that were assembled incorrectly.
-Don

I bought a longer-than-I remember Proto LA 3/8" breaker a few months ago and got it home to realize the detent ball was inop, little pissed about that.

 

[damon18]

They used the same number for a given design (ratchet, extension, breaker bar, etc.) regardless of the changing design details.

Thanks for the info. I think I'll keep the breaker bar under my bed, to replace the tire knocker for home defense.

 

[bmwrd0]

I get the feeling that someone is going to be asking you about that breaker bar.

 

[Oldtuleguy]

I think Shelbylex is looking for one

 

[macgee]

Ok you Plomb fanatics, I have a question.

Today I found a really small 2oz hammer that I thought was a Plomb/Proto/Paschall 1302. The handle was worn with some green paint still on it and looks like it had an octagon shape lower section on the handle (could have been home made). Wasn't until I got home did I notice it says Vaughan on it but looks very similar to my larger Paschall 1304. It doesn't look like it in the photo but the 1304 is about twice the weight and bigger than rusty one.

Question: Did Paschall ever make hammers for Vaughan?

 

[drivesitfar]

MAC: I can't answer your question about the hammer, but I do like the fix you did with the copper wire and solder. was that you doing it and how hard to do? a bit more expensive than replacing the hammer's handle either with a store bought, estate sales finds or a handmade one, but it does have a look.

ALL: I was going to clean these out and wipe them down some before posting them here, but LUG mentioned on the vintage toolbox thread that I should handle with care. I'm planning on making the smaller one my main user box so it should be held open and be at the ready to grab Plvmb tools from (clean type jobs) cause i've got a couple drawers in my flat file toolbox for rusty dirty type work tools.

anyway i'm thinking of removing all the tools and wiping the small one down with simple green. the bigger one seem to be a bit more delicate so not sure if i'm going to wipe anything over the labels. thoughts?

 

[Outlawmws]

Again Drives. I'm liking GreazeOff for this type of clean up over SG these days.

 

[d42jeep]

MAC: I can't answer your question about the hammer, but I do like the fix you did with the copper wire and solder. was that you doing it and how hard to do? a bit more expensive than replacing the hammer's handle either with a store bought, estate sales finds or a handmade one, but it does have a look.

ALL: I was going to clean these out and wipe them down some before posting them here, but LUG mentioned on the vintage toolbox thread that I should handle with care. I'm planning on making the smaller one my main user box so it should be held open and be at the ready to grab Plvmb tools from (clean type jobs) cause i've got a couple drawers in my flat file toolbox for rusty dirty type work tools.

anyway i'm thinking of removing all the tools and wiping the small one down with simple green. the bigger one seem to be a bit more delicate so not sure if i'm going to wipe anything over the labels. thoughts?

I would avoid the decals altogether. I would spray the other areas with 409 or Fantastic and wipe out the grease and dirt with paper towels. They look pretty darn good as they are. Simple Green can be hard on paint. Here is mine as received.
-Don

 

[c1504]

I wouldn’t touch the logos, but that is speaking from limited experience. Those things sure are nice!

 

[RTM]

I would actually start with paint thinner or mineral spirits vs a detergent type cleaner, what do others think of that path of cleaning?

 

[Private Lugnutz]

Drives
My $.02, I would not go near those boxes with Simple Green! As Outlaw implied, and Don flat out stated, SG can be very harsh on old paint. It won't strip it by you just wiping it on and off with a rag, but it very well could thin the top layer, change the color, and ruin the finish as you wipe. Same with paint thinner! I would use something in the kitchen category as Don suggested. I like Wet Ones or Redi-Wipes or diluted Dawn dish soap on a cloth rag. Something like that. Whatever that doesn't soften and lift is meant to stay on that box and it will not bother your hands or your tools.

I do see some rusty areas on the drop front panel and lower frame of the 9990 (bigger chest), and maybe some on the lid. Hard to say if it's threatening the integrity of the steel or just minor. You could reassess those after you do a light cleaning. If minor, I would rub those carefully with 0000 steel wool and penetrating oil. If worse, you could try wetting some rag pieces in Evaporust and clamping them on those areas. Not sopping wet, because it will run and streak the paint, which very likely has oxides in it. Just damp enough to do its thing. Keep in mind, if you abrade it with 0000 steel wool and penetrating oil it actually flattens that first layer of rust out evenly as it removes some. When you rub that down with a rag and more penetrating oil, it is not at all an unappealing finish in the context of the entire mottled and imperfect but authentic finish. If you do the Evaporust daubing you will be left with bare steel. That's good, also bad, because now you have to spot paint it. So sometimes less is more.

 

[Outlawmws]

I would actually start with paint thinner or mineral spirits vs a detergent type cleaner, what do others think of that path of cleaning?

Kennedy used to recommend WD-40 as a cleaner for their boxes, and I've done that with reasonable success as well.

Also, Lugz recommendations are also spot on as usual.

There are MANY options Drives, but starting with the least destructive is always best.

SG is great stuff, but around paint it has to be used with a lot of circumspection. For instance a paper towel with SG on an old Coleman Stove will invariable come away green...

 

[drivesitfar]

Thanks guys for all the great comments and suggestions. I’m not in a huge hurry to get these cleaned up so feel free to carry on the conversation that I’m sure will help me and others should benefit too now or down the road.

I probably wasn’t going to use SG (simple green) cause I know it can remove paint and if I did it would have been lightly sprayed on a rag or paper towel. Thanks for the reminders though and love to hear how you all restore the things you have that I enjoy seeing pics of.

Since I do like putting BLO on my baked snd old painted vises that is one thought but it might be a bit too sticky for a toolbox.

 

[Oldtuleguy]

Wd40 does work well

 

[Shelbylex]

Great Boxes, drivesitfar! Congratulations!

Another small addition to my PLVMB collection (not perfect, but much better than before...)
PLVMB 3021 DOE 3/8-7/16

 

[Smokeshow69]

Smokeshow sent me one of his Plomb tool board stickers and it motivated me to get going on a project that I had been planning. I had some leftover redwood pieces from a home repair and a retired carpenter buddy made this display shelf for my Plomb sets. Now I have to figure out a place for it.
-Don

Fantastic work Don! I feel honored that my sticker is on the top of that shelf that holds so much goodness! Maybe you can keep it inside? It is nice enough maybe it may slide past the Sgt. Major?

 

[Smokeshow69]

I just moved all of them along to Smokeshow, as he is building a tool board just for them.

Yes, I have them now in my possession drives. I will get them cleaned up and post a few pictures here soon. I was really excited to get them from BMW! And yes, I guess I am a glutton for punishment because I built 2 boards just for dual marked wrenches...and have also started on dual marked doe's and long pattern combo wrenches. Yes, I am nuttier than squirrel turds !

 

[Smokeshow69]

BTW,( apologies for the thread hijack) ref. that 4 point post I made, that operation involved, among other things, falling thru a floor into a dirt cellar narrowly missing some ancient pointy *** unidentifiable machinery, making an eventful climb up the elevator shaft to the machine room on the roof,and a pair of thieves making the laughingly bad luck decision to stash their recently stolen goods under one of the wood floor loading bays unaware that I was in the building.

I wanna hear the full scoop on this one some time!

 

[Smokeshow69]

Picked up a ton of old tools, included with some tool boxes I bought. (Swore I wouldn't do this again, but really wanted the KR-537 and the seller would only sell the lot.)

Anyway, among the tonnage were some 3/4 drive sockets of multiple USA makers, and this Plomb 5668 3/4 breaker bar.

But when I googled it the images for the 5668 showed a 3/4 breaker bar with a round handle. Did they make it both ways or am I reading the number wrong?

Sent from my SM-G973U using The Garage Journal mobile app

Your round handle is the earlier 30's most likely...plomb carried the same part numbers into the proto era and some part numbers are still the same for the same tools. Do you have any pictures of yours?

 

[Smokeshow69]

Thanks guys for all the great comments and suggestions. I’m not in a huge hurry to get these cleaned up so feel free to carry on the conversation that I’m sure will help me and others should benefit too now or down the road.

I probably wasn’t going to use SG (simple green) cause I know it can remove paint and if I did it would have been lightly sprayed on a rag or paper towel. Thanks for the reminders though and love to hear how you all restore the things you have that I enjoy seeing pics of.

Since I do like putting BLO on my baked snd old painted vises that is one thought but it might be a bit too sticky for a toolbox.

Good call on no SG there drives. If those were my boxes I would just use some hot soapy water and clean gingerly. Avoid the logos. You might have to use a light plastic dish brush on the really soiled areas but less is more on these guys I think... I would agree with lugz on these as well!

 

[Ricky Joe]

I would actually start with paint thinner or mineral spirits vs a detergent type cleaner, what do others think of that path of cleaning?

I use a rag dipped in automatic transmission fluid. Works well.

 

[outofbounds]

I read a post on the Facebook Plomb page as someone was gleefully placing a small Pebble finish combo to complete his set, and I commented "better a 7/16" combo than a 1-7/16" combo" to which many collectors chimed in that the smallest wrenches are the hardest ones to find. With that in mind I'll celebrate this mini bonanza of smalls that came out of a "box of wrenches" from FB. All in really clean condition.

 

[Smokeshow69]

I read a post on the Facebook Plomb page as someone was gleefully placing a small Pebble finish combo to complete his set, and I commented "better a 7/16" combo than a 1-7/16" combo" to which many collectors chimed in that the smallest wrenches are the hardest ones to find. With that in mind I'll celebrate this mini bonanza of smalls that came out of a "box of wrenches" from FB. All in really clean condition.

Yeah, the 1210-5/16 can be hard to find...but I haven't experienced that... Speaking of parting with wrenches...Would you be willing to part with that 3016 DOE ?

 

[damon18]

Your round handle is the earlier 30's most likely...plomb carried the same part numbers into the proto era and some part numbers are still the same for the same tools. Do you have any pictures of yours?

I'm confused. The 3/4 driver breaker bar I have is the one in my pictures, with the square/rectangular handle with the pebble background. What years did they use that style?

Sent from my SM-G973U using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[Smokeshow69]

I know some of you don't go to the garage sale thread or lower yourself to the lowly " proto tools" thread so I am posting these here... not totally appropriate for this thread but part of the family tree. I am sure several of you guys are getting tired of seeing these but they are uncommon enough

Over the past few weeks I have added 4 Proto tool boards to my collection! 3 Proto LA and 1 Proto MFD era! I cant begin to tell you how stoked I am to get them!

Proto LA-Body hammer board- member C1504 tipped me off in the Proto tools thread that he knew of some local boards for sale. I saw that my friend , the host, BMWRDO would be in the vicinity and since he is a proto head like me, I mentioned the boards to him. He picked up a drive tools board for himself and got this hammer and dolly board for me...That was very nice of him to transport it for me and I am grateful to him as well as C1504

The 3 other boards- 2 Proto LA screw driver boards and uncommon MFD era metric board and metric doe wrenches. I bought these boards 3 years ago off seattle craigslist... I didn't have the wall space so I immediately sold them for the same amount I paid to Rileysan... I have regretted it ever since because I moved not long after the sale to a house with the wall space... Finally after working on him for years, he sold them back to me for the same amount I sold them to him for. I now have them up on the wall and am enjoying walking into my garage. I smile every time I see them.

** I do need to fill them up so if anyone has any proto LA screw drivers, MFD era metric tools or any body tools, let me know!**

 

[c1504]

I'm confused. The 3/4 driver breaker bar I have is the one in my pictures, with the square/rectangular handle with the pebble background. What years did they use that style?

Sent from my SM-G973U using The Garage Journal mobile app

I think smoke just misread your post? I’m not sure the exact year they started the pebble handles but it was post war.

 

[Provincial]

damon18, here is your homework assignment on the pebble wrenches:

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=360789

The model numbers follow the type of tool, not the style, so round, knurled handles and rectangular pebbled handles share the same part number.

 

[c1504]

The 3 other boards- 2 Proto LA screw driver boards and uncommon MFD era metric board

This is something I have been thinking about for a while. “Los Angeles” seems to have been dropped from the logo and replaced by “proto means professional tools” by 1954, which is a couple years before the LA markings were removed from the tools, if the AA date of 1957 is correct. This is perfectly shown on your new wrench roll which has the newer logo but LA tools. This makes me think that a lot of stuff that we date to the MFD era, including your metric board, could likely be from the LA era. Is this an accurate assumption? Forgive me if I am missing something simple or this has come up before.

 

[c1504]

I know some of you don't go to the garage sale thread or lower yourself to the lowly " proto tools" thread so I am posting these here... not totally appropriate for this thread but part of the family tree. I am sure several of you guys are getting tired of seeing these but they are uncommon enough

Apologies if anyone is getting tired of seeing this subject come up, but I for one never get sick of things like this, so I will follow smoke’s lead and post my new boards here too.

Also, if anyone has any LA wrenches they want to part with, let me know.

 

[Smokeshow69]

Apologies if anyone is getting tired of seeing this subject come up, but I for one never get sick of things like this, so I will follow smoke’s lead and post my new boards here too.

Also, if anyone has any LA wrenches they want to part with, let me know.

I might have a few spare combos for you...let me check tomorrow and I will let you know what I have

 

[Private Lugnutz]

What years did they use that style?

Beginning in February 1944 through 1949. Also ratchets, flare nut wrenches, pullers, pickle forks and a few other odds and ends. DOEs and DBEs in 1946. See link Smoke provided for longer explanation and evidence.

I’m not sure the exact year they started the pebble handles but it was post war.

See above.