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PLT Lighting Fixture Question

shubox56

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*This is my first post*

I am currently updating an attached 20 X 20 garage which leads me to a question about a specific PLT fixture. I'm looking at a T8 LED-Ready wraparound fixture which gives me greater flexibility when selecting the tube temp and output. With that, has anyone dealt with PLT -- is this a decent choice? PLT-20016 from 1000Bulbs.

Like many, I want to save a buck, but I also do not want to buy junk. In this case, there's not much to an LED-Ready fixture, so it's more about quality control at PLT (I'm assuming)?

I'm looking at a wraparound fixture to lower glare (8 ft ceiling). If this is a decent product, I will likely buy 10 fixtures that will be spaced as evenly as possible to reduce unwanted shadows. Maybe around 3600 lumen per 4 ft fixture for a total unadjusted output of 36,000 lumen. Sound about right?

The garage is a working man cave. I spend a great deal of time in this garage working on my 56 Chevy. The garage has a bright white ceiling and walls, but I'm looking to change the wall color to a light gray. The floor is a black & white (VCT Tile).

Thanks in advance!
 
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shubox56

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I think I'm going to pass on PLT. $181 to ship 10 LED fixtures from TX to IL. And I mentioned this site, but no special rate was applied. I'll keep them on the back burner for now.

As much as I dislike the idea of an integrated LED system, call them throwaways, I'm giving them a second look while considering other T8 LED-ready options (wrap around only). I'm not sure where to find a solid unit without breaking the bank.
 

DieselNut88

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I would purchase a fixture with ballast. And buy LED T8s. I do commercial building maintenance and we are converting fixtures currently. We are using ballast compatible bulbs to have the option to go back to fluorescents if necessary. We are using the brand TCP. There LED bulbs are very nice although I can't comment on longevity. You will not find these at the box stores.
 

cybrdyke

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I think I'm going to pass on PLT. $181 to ship 10 LED fixtures from TX to IL. And I mentioned this site, but no special rate was applied. I'll keep them on the back burner for now.

As much as I dislike the idea of an integrated LED system, call them throwaways, I'm giving them a second look while considering other T8 LED-ready options (wrap around only). I'm not sure where to find a solid unit without breaking the bank.

Any local electrical supply house can get you the same fixture, no ballast, pre-wired for LED tubes from TechBrite, Eiko, MaxLite, etc. They'll order them in if they dont have them in stock. Normally, they can add your order to a stock order and there is no freight charge at all. While you're at it, you can get the lamps there as well.
CD
 
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shubox56

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Hi Diesel, thanks for responding! So go with something like this that I can get locally without the fear of shipping damage (something that I read about a lot)?

Lithonia Lighting SB Wraparound Light (Actual: 47.75-in x 8.76-in x 1.8-in)

At Lowes (Item # 1033986 Model # SB 2 32 120 GESB)

If I go this route with T8 LED tubes that are compatible with a ballast, will I have to replace the ballast or rewire the fixture if a ballast goes bad? Or will the tube continue to fire regardless of the state of the ballast?

I like that his has a hinged wrparound. but 'm not sure the metal gauge. My 671 blown 56 Chevy will be quite loud (in the build mode), and historically over the past 22 years that I have owned it, the car will vibrate anything off the walls or ceiling that isn't securely fastened. LOL

I appreciate your input.
 
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shubox56

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Any local electrical supply house can get you the same fixture, no ballast, pre-wired for LED tubes from TechBrite, Eiko, MaxLite, etc. They'll order them in if they dont have them in stock. Normally, they can add your order to a stock order and there is no freight charge at all. While you're at it, you can get the lamps there as well.
CD

Another great thought. I do have a large commercial lighting/electrical retailer in my area. I will check with them.
 
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shubox56

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Okay, it looks like I answered my own question. Apparently if the ballast goes bad, I'll have to remove the ballast or replace it.
 
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shubox56

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I would purchase a fixture with ballast. And buy LED T8s. I do commercial building maintenance and we are converting fixtures currently. We are using ballast compatible bulbs to have the option to go back to fluorescents if necessary. We are using the brand TCP. There LED bulbs are very nice although I can't comment on longevity. You will not find these at the box stores.


What is the likelihood of going back to fluorescent tubes? What's the plan when a ballast goes bad? Replace the ballast or ballast bypass? And the TCP tube being used, is that a hybrid tube that can be used with or without ballast?
 

Platonic Solid

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Another option is to get a decent integrated fixture like this one (link). The specs on their web page are wrong. The PDF spec (link) is accurate:

Manufacturer: Energetic Lighting
5098 Lumens, 35W, 146L/W, 180,000 Hr. L70 Life for $45.44
Available in 4000K or 5000K CCT
 

houtan

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Any updates? I’m in the same boat; trying to decide on a wrap around led fixture for my 21x20x9 garage.
 
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shubox56

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Any updates? I’m in the same boat; trying to decide on a wrap around led fixture for my 21x20x9 garage.

I have a couple threads going, all somewhat related. I'm leaning towards the MaxLite LSS2XT8USE4803 if I go with a wrap.
 

houtan

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Another option is to get a decent integrated fixture like (link). The specs on their web page are wrong. The (link) is accurate:

Manufacturer: Energetic Lighting
5098 Lumens, 35W, 146L/W, 180,000 Hr. L70 Life for $45.44
Available in 4000K or 5000K CCT

This looks nice too. Just to make sure I understand correctly, one of these would replace a wrap round fixture that holds two bulbs right?
 
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shubox56

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I'll leave your question to the in-house experts. Something that I certainly am not. ;-)

I didn't look at that particular fixture, but I'm guessing that that is an integrated LED fixture. No specific tube to install or replace down the road.
 

houtan

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Shubox, my apologies for asking questions in your thread, but it seems more efficient to do so and you have finally helped me end my search after reading long enough to make my eyes start bleeding!

So I am getting g this fixture from here: https://www.homelectrical.com/two-l...p-fixture-120v-277v.mxl-lsu2xt8use4806.1.html

And this light: https://greenlightdepot.com/products/4ft-18w-led-linear-versa-tube-ul-dlc?variant=3706824644

I am hoping you or platonic or anyone else can help me answer a few more questions (and hopefully it will help others):

1. The fixture would be dimmable if the lights I get are dimmable right?

2. I can see knockouts on the ends of the fixture but does anyone know if there are knockouts on the side as well?

3. For the lights, do I get the clear tubes since I’m getting a wraparound fixture that has a prism diffuser?

4. Someone please tell me what color to get. I was set on 3000 K because I like soft white in my house but everything I’m reading says you want 5000 K in the garage, so I was going to go between and get 4000 K but that will probably be the worst choice since it’s not the one I like nor the one that is preferred in the garage ha ha. Is 3000k a mistake?

Thanks again.
 
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cybrdyke

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Shubox, my apologies for asking questions in your thread, but it seems more efficient to do so and you have finally helped me end my search after reading long enough to make my eyes start bleeding!

So I am getting g this fixture from here: https://www.homelectrical.com/two-l...p-fixture-120v-277v.mxl-lsu2xt8use4806.1.html

And this light: https://greenlightdepot.com/products/4ft-18w-led-linear-versa-tube-ul-dlc?variant=3706824644

Few more questions I would greatly appreciate help with (and hopefully it will help others):

1. The fixture would be dimmable if the lights I get are dimmable right?

2. I can see knockouts on the ends of the fixture but does anyone know if there are knockouts on the side as well?

3. For the lights, do I get the clear tubes since I’m getting a wraparound fixture that has a prism diffuser?

4. Someone please tell me what color to get. I was set on 3000 K because I like soft white in my house but everything I’m reading says you want 5000 K in the garage, so I was going to go between and get 4000 K but that will probably be the worst choice since it’s not the one I like nor the one that is preferred in the garage ha ha. Is 3000k a mistake?

Thanks again.
1. If you can find dimmable tubes and a compatible dimmer switch, then yes.
2. Fixture does not have knockouts on the sides. Top and ends only.
3. Doesn't matter much. Get frosted in case you break a lens.
4. Your space, your choice. If you are going to do mechanical or hobby work, then cooler colors like 4000K or 5000K will be helpful. A pro workshop would definitely prefer 5000K.
 

houtan

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1. If you can find dimmable tubes and a compatible dimmer switch, then yes.
2. Fixture does not have knockouts on the sides. Top and ends only.
3. Doesn't matter much. Get frosted in case you break a lens.
4. Your space, your choice. If you are going to do mechanical or hobby work, then cooler colors like 4000K or 5000K will be helpful. A pro workshop would definitely prefer 5000K.

Thank you!!!!

So could I make my own holes on the side of their was clearance or is that a big no no?

I do use my garage to work on cars and do the occasional detailing so it sounds like I should go with 5k.
 
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shubox56

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Thank you!!!!

So could I make my own holes on the side of their was clearance or is that a big no no?

I do use my garage to work on cars and do the occasional detailing so it sounds like I should go with 5k.

If you are going with a wrap, there's no place to drill. The sides are part of the wrap.
 

houtan

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If you are going with a wrap, there's no place to drill. The sides are part of the wrap.

Doh!! Well that was a silly question. I see that in the pictures now.

Going start ordering all the materials. Will post back once everything is installed hopefully in a few weeks.

Thanks again for all of the information!
 
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shubox56

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Doh!! Well that was a silly question. I see that in the pictures now.

Going start ordering all the materials. Will post back once everything is installed hopefully in a few weeks.

Thanks again for all of the information!

You said your space is similar to mine in size, how are you laying out the lights and how many? Don't pay attention to MY layout shown in other threads, my garage space is a little weird (ceiling).
 

Platonic Solid

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houtan - Stick with frosted lensed bulbs in wrap fixtures with clear prism lenses. Clear prism wrap lenses are originally intended for fluorescent bulbs and will create undesirable psychedelic appearance if bulb has clear lens.
 

Platonic Solid

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houtan - Just want to make sure you have all the options - Cost of wrap housing + 2 typical 50,000 hr. rated bulbs exceeds the price for an integrated 180,000 hr. strip light like this one:

Energetic LED Strip Light, 4 Foot, 35 Watts, 5000K, $45.44 (link)

Note: Web page specs are wrong - see linked PDF spec sheet on webpage.
 

houtan

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You said your space is similar to mine in size, how are you laying out the lights and how many? Don't pay attention to MY layout shown in other threads, my garage space is a little weird (ceiling).

Excuse the archaic drawing. I used the tool in the light thread and this is what it says to do. I am leaning towards wiring everything based on the solid black lines. The red dot is the only light in the garage right now. My plan is to remove the light, put a junction box, run conduit to the ceiling, then put a junction box (black dots) across each row of three lights. This way I have the least amount of conduit to bend.

The other option would be to use one junction box at the first row of lights and then run conduit at the end of each row of lights (dashed black line). Edit: I wouldn’t even need the first black junction box if I went this route, just a conduit run to straight from the red dot to the first light.

Would be love for any feedback anyone may have.
 

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houtan

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houtan - Stick with frosted lensed bulbs in wrap fixtures with clear prism lenses. Clear prism wrap lenses are originally intended for fluorescent bulbs and will create undesirable psychedelic appearance if bulb has clear lens.

houtan - Just want to make sure you have all the options - Cost of wrap housing + 2 typical 50,000 hr. rated bulbs exceeds the price for an integrated 180,000 hr. strip light like this one:

Energetic LED Strip Light, 4 Foot, 35 Watts, 5000K, $45.44 (link)

Note: Web page specs are wrong - see linked PDF spec sheet on webpage.


Thanks. My concern with these was if one fails I would be SOL on a replacement. But the price is so good I could get a spare just in case and it would still be a better value. I like that these are less parts and there are a lot of knockouts which would simply my install.
 
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shubox56

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houtan - Just want to make sure you have all the options - Cost of wrap housing + 2 typical 50,000 hr. rated bulbs exceeds the price for an integrated 180,000 hr. strip light like this one:

Energetic LED Strip Light, 4 Foot, 35 Watts, 5000K, $45.44 (link)

Note: Web page specs are wrong - see linked PDF spec sheet on webpage.

Hey Plantonic, you know that I too, am leaning towards the wrap --- would a pair of high quality lamps (in a wrap) with a wide beam angle provide a wider overall light spread with less shadows (and maybe glare) compared to the ESSLB35D4? Assume that the wrap Lumens are the same as the integrated fixture mentioned. Also assume that both are dimmable.

Have you personally touched this integrated fixture? Quality opinion?

Thanks ---
 

Platonic Solid

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shubox56 - I have no personal experience with the Energetic LED Strip Light. I did confirm that it is UL and DLC Listed, and Energetic Lighting is the manufacturer (not just some random reseller of Chinese mystery fixtures). Light distribution is normal = not wide. I don't think you need wide anyway. Dimming is 0-10VDC, not line voltage. Here's a link to their site: https://www.energeticlighting.com/Series/Index/E5SLB

Wide distribution will direct more light towards your eyes and less towards workplane = more glare. Wide vs normal distribution has little effect on shadows - fixture qty and placement is key to shadow reduction.
 

Platonic Solid

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houtan - If you're using the space to work on cars, you want to run fixtures around the perimeter of the car(s). 21' doesn't provide much working space if you have 2 cars in there. You can pull the fixtures closer to the walls than the 3.5' the Visual tool suggests. The Visual tool is good for providing a general lighting layout for even distribution in an empty room. Any light fixtures directly over a vehicle will create undesirable shadows on vehicle sides. If you're working on 1 car sitting in the center of the space, then the strip of fixtures going down the middle directly over the vehicle is fine since the other fixtures (top & bottom row in your image) will cancel out vehicle shadows created by the center row.
 

houtan

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houtan - If you're using the space to work on cars, you want to run fixtures around the perimeter of the car(s). 21' doesn't provide much working space if you have 2 cars in there. You can pull the fixtures closer to the walls than the 3.5' the Visual tool suggests. The Visual tool is good for providing a general lighting layout for even distribution in an empty room. Any light fixtures directly over a vehicle will create undesirable shadows on vehicle sides. If you're working on 1 car sitting in the center of the space, then the strip of fixtures going down the middle directly over the vehicle is fine since the other fixtures (top & bottom row in your image) will cancel out vehicle shadows created by the center row.

Thanks. You’re absolutely right, when I’m working on a car there will only be one car in the garage. I am going to try really hard to park two though!

So here is an update with the car parked in the middle. Do I have the lights going the wrong way? I thought it would work since the light would be going perpendicular to the garage tracks.
 

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Platonic Solid

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houtan - Oh, I was picturing the car rotated 90°. It will work either way, but I'd be inclined to run the fixtures parallel to the car.
 

houtan

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platonic solid - thanks. I think I will change it to run parallel to the cars. Do you think the number of lights will be sufficient?
 

Platonic Solid

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20x21x9

9 5000 Lumen fixtures will yield 70fc @ 30" workplane (this is likely brighter than any room in your house or office)

Target for detailed mechanical work = 93fc
 
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cybrdyke

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If you were to change the Illuminance to 90 (under the Criteria section), the program will tell you 15 fixtures.
 

houtan

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If you were to change the Illuminance to 90 (under the Criteria section), the program will tell you 15 fixtures.

Thanks. If I click on the link I posted, it has it at 90 but is telling me 9 lights. Is there something else I need to change?
 

houtan

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Thanks. If I change illuminance to 93 I get the layout I posted. I’m wondering if I need to change the light fixture part of the page? If I change illuminance to 100 I get 12 lights (four rows of three lights)
 

cybrdyke

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All I did was went onto the link you posted, changed illuminance from 30 to 90 (hit "Enter") and it gave me 15 fixtures, 3 x 5. I didn't change anything else, so I used all the other settings that you had.
Platonic is using different dimensions than you are. He has 21x20, you have 20x30. If I change it to 21x20 and 90fc, then it goes to 12 fixtures, 3x4.
CD
 
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