Plug in or hardwire fluorescents?

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Just finished up the exterior stuff on my 28x40x12 build. I need to think about lighting next. I want an adequate amount of light so I plan on going with 20 4 ft fluorescents. That looks to give me about 100 lumens per square. I will be insulating and sheetrocking in th future but not yet. What is everyone's thoughts on running hardwired to each fixture or running each unit off outlets. I would think it would be easier to Sheetrock if I went the hardwired route not having to cut out 10 boxes in the ceiling. Could I just run romex directly into the top of the fixture if it is flush mounted to the ceiling or do I have to run shielded wire. Last question, hang or flush mount?

 

[forAK]

I flush mounted mine. I ran the romex ontop of the bottom chord and then drilled holes in the sheetrock into the fixture. I never cared for the cosmetics of outlets in the ceiling.

 

[cybrdyke]

Hardwire. 100%. Outlets need to be GFCI protected and electronic ballasts sometimes dont play nice with GFCI's. Surface mount is the way to go.
If you're targeting 100 foot candles, your way low. Lumens per sq foot wont get you there.
Good luck
CD

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

I was targeting lumens per square I believe from what others have mentioned in posts. I looked at that many lumens in our firehouse in a similar siZe and it seems plenty bright.

 

[lakeroadster]

In our attached garage the fluorescent lights are plugged into outlets. I like the convenience of being able to easily take them down.

cybrdyke,

Is that an NEC requirement for outlets on a ceiling to be GFCI protected? ... in an accessory building?

 

[pattenp]

Is that an NEC requirement for outlets on a ceiling to be GFCI protected? ... in an accessory building?

Yes look up NEC 210.8(A)(2)

 

[cybrdyke]

I was targeting lumens per square I believe from what others have mentioned in posts. I looked at that many lumens in our firehouse in a similar siZe and it seems plenty bright.

I get what you're thinking, but it doesn't really work that way. Hate to see you come in way below what you want.
CD

 

[lakeroadster]

Is that an NEC requirement for outlets on a ceiling to be GFCI protected? ... in an accessory building?

Yes look up NEC 210.8(A)(2)

Good to know.. thanks.

 

[Richard Cranium]

thank you for posting up the Nec. I really like it when people do that, instead of just saying it is not to code.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

I get what you're thinking, but it doesn't really work that way. Hate to see you come in way below what you want.
CD

What am I missing?

 

[cybrdyke]

What am I missing?

You cant use the number of lumens that a light source produces to make any kind of calculation as to how many foot candles you'll have in a given square footage. Just doesn't work that way, especially when you dont get all those lumens in the first place.
For example, if you are thinking of using 20 x 2-lamp T8 fixtures, you will only have approximately 75,000 delivered lumens, once ballast factor and fixture efficiency are accounted for.
...and we still dont know where all those lumens are headed...
CD

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

Thanks for the added thoughts in the matter. The "final" number of lumens or fc reaching the floor is determined by what? Hieght from the floor and reflectivity of the walls cieling and floor?

 

[cybrdyke]

Thanks for the added thoughts in the matter. The "final" number of lumens or fc reaching the floor is determined by what? Hieght from the floor and reflectivity of the walls cieling and floor?

The quantity of lumens from the source is not used in calculating foot candles. That's kinda where everyone goes wrong with the whole lumens per square foot thing. If you're looking for some kind of formula, there isn't one.

What determines the foot-candles on the target?
Source optics.
Fixture photometrics (the way it spreads light).
Fixture efficiency (or lack of)
Wall/ceiling/floor reflectivity
Mounting height & spacing
etc etc etc etc
If you have a target fc level that you want, then you should have someone do a layout for you. That will be the best way to make sure you're getting what you want.

 

[Hondaracer2oo4]

So more or less it sounds like the easiest way to do this since the variables are so vast is to just install the number of lights you think you need and then add to it if needed.

 

[Showkey]

So more or less it sounds like the easiest way to do this since the variables are so vast is to just install the number of lights you think you need and then add to it if needed.

That's one way^^^^^^^ ........but plan ahead for proper spacing.

Or

Do the guess work and double the number of fixtures.

Or

Buy few fixtures, hang them, measure the FC ( LUX) at the work surface in that area with light meter (LUX, FC) app on your smart phone or LUX meter purchased on Amazon. If your using the meter for comparison reading and a baseline it does not have to be a lab accurate instrument. If it is capable of repeatable consistent readings it good enough for the garage. You might be surprised the number of fixtures it takes to get 1000 LUX ( 100FC ) on work bench top witha 9-10' ceiling.

 

[sberry]

It would be worth it to me to gfci, put them in the switch box and send legs to outlets to put hanging lights with plugs so I could move them around where needed. Reduce the elevation on ones you can is the easiest way to brighten it.

 

[prostreetamx]

This light spacing and varied needs at different locations is the main reason I went with track lighting in my new garage. I have 14' ceilings and plan different activities at different locations. I can use spot lights, flood lights or even plug in hanging 4' fixtures anywhere with ease. I GFCI protected the source power so I can use plug adaptors for the hanging fixtures and will be installing the track with a spacer so I can use wire or jack chain to support hanging fixtures. Just mudding the rock now so will be installing track in the next few weeks. Already have lots of LED track heads to start with. I'm also planning to install arm lights and T-5 fluorescent fixtures over my workbench and chop saw bench. Arm lights are used a lot at trade shows and work great for small area accent lighting. They clip on or screw to the top of a wall or cabinet and can be aimed at the work surface. These are not available at any store that I have seen but pretty common online.

 

[Radix2]

So more or less it sounds like the easiest way to do this since the variables are so vast is to just install the number of lights you think you need and then add to it if needed.

This type of thing is easier, will get you in the ballpark.

https://www.visual-3d.com/tools/interior/

Find a similar fixture from lithonia or get the photo metric for for what you are buying

 

[nsula_country]

Hardwire. 100%. Outlets need to be GFCI protected and electronic ballasts sometimes dont play nice with GFCI's. Surface mount is the way to go.
If you're targeting 100 foot candles, your way low. Lumens per sq foot wont get you there.
Good luck
CD

This only applies to Residential attached and detached buildings and select commercial applications... Careful with this statement... OP did not specify building type. If commercial or agricultural, no GFCI required.

GFCI's and fluorescent lights usually DO NOT play nice. Especially the cheap box store printed circuit "ballast" shop lights with a cord.

To the OP, HARDWIRE HANDS DOWN! DO NOT INVEST IN BOX STORE "SHOP LIGHTS" OF ANY KIND!!! Ok, off my rant on lights. Do invest in a quality hard wire fixture. Any fluorescent lights with a cord are most likely just going to aggravate you.

CT

 

[Thumper68]

My vote is both, I have set up my shop with both hardwired lights and plug ins but not off the shelf corded lights, I used commercial fixtures and added cords.

Over some of the fixed tools, table saw, jointer etc. There are hard wired lights since these tools are not moving. Most of the other lights are plugged in so I can reconfigure them easily as I shift work patterns and reorganize.

I also like hanging lights in some locations, either on chains or pendants, I have high ceilings close to 20 feet in some areas so being able to bring the lights in some areas closer requires fewer lumins.

The problem with designing a lighting plan before you are actually working is that it will be wrong, you will need more light in some areas and less in others, so you will need task specific lighting as well.

In the end what I would recommend is going with a general light layout with options for job specific additions.

The worst shop I have ever worked in was one where there was a lot of fixed lights that were all in the wrong places so you had to use portable lights for just about every task.

 

[Ch3No2]

20 x 44 with 15-4 tube fluorescents...plenty of light...but I did get the double ballast fixtures so I could have 2 or 4 tubes on at a time.

 

[Twodawgs]

I am just finishing up hard wiring mine. I went with the Lithonia Lighting fixtures 1233 T12 Shoplight from Home Depot. They were $12.97 each at my local HD in NYS, so I bought them online from the HD in Bennington, VT for $11.86 with free shipping. My garage is 30 X 60 with inside dimensions approximately 28 x 58 and 12ft ceilings. I went with 30 lights. I removed the ballasts from the fixtures and went with Hyperikon T8 18w single end power 5000K frosted LED bulbs from Amazon. I went with the Hyperikon because the dealers listed in The Best Lighting Fixture Ever thread seam to only ship in quantities of 60 and I want to get a few as spares so if one goes bad in 5-10 years I will have one that will match.
These fixtures are meant to be installed with a chain mount. I direct surface mounted mine. My ceiling is steel panel so should dissipate any heat just fine. I hung the fixture, then drilled a 7/8" hole thru the fixture and my metal ceiling to install a 3/8" nm clamp connector
I did the Visual Interior Tool calculator and come up with about 70FC at a 36" work plane. The top 4 ft of my walls will be white metal panels to match the ceiling. I did not figure this into the calculation.
I am wiring them up to 4 switches, 2 for the front half of the building 2 for rear. Ran 14/3 to the fixtures so one switch turns on left bulb on all fixtures and other switch turns on right.

 

[nsula_country]

I am just finishing up hard wiring mine. I went with the Lithonia Lighting fixtures 1233 T12 Shoplight from Home Depot. They were $12.97 each at my local HD in NYS, so I bought them online from the HD in Bennington, VT for $11.86 with free shipping. My garage is 30 X 60 with inside dimensions approximately 28 x 58 and 12ft ceilings. I went with 30 lights. I removed the ballasts from the fixtures and went with Hyperikon T8 18w single end power 5000K frosted LED bulbs from Amazon. I went with the Hyperikon because the dealers listed in The Best Lighting Fixture Ever thread seam to only ship in quantities of 60 and I want to get a few as spares so if one goes bad in 5-10 years I will have one that will match.
These fixtures are meant to be installed with a chain mount. I direct surface mounted mine. My ceiling is steel panel so should dissipate any heat just fine. I hung the fixture, then drilled a 7/8" hole thru the fixture and my metal ceiling to install a 3/8" nm clamp connector
I did the Visual Interior Tool calculator and come up with about 70FC at a 36" work plane. The top 4 ft of my walls will be white metal panels to match the ceiling. I did not figure this into the calculation.
I am wiring them up to 4 switches, 2 for the front half of the building 2 for rear. Ran 14/3 to the fixtures so one switch turns on left bulb on all fixtures and other switch turns on right.

Do you have a build thread for this yet? I'd like to see the lighting. Sounds awesome!

CT

 

[lakeroadster]

These fixtures are meant to be installed with a chain mount. I direct surface mounted mine. My ceiling is steel panel so should dissipate any heat just fine.

Curious what the Sparky's here have to say about that.... Is it legal per the NEC?

 

[Twodawgs]

Curious what the Sparky's here have to say about that.... Is it legal per the NEC?

I doubt it is legal per NEC as these fixtures have not been rated for surface mount.

 

[cybrdyke]

It's not an NEC issue, it's an inspector's issue. If the fixture is UL listed, you will have voided the UL by mounting it in a fashion that it's not rated for. An inspector can flag the installation for this.

CD

 

[nsula_country]

It's not an NEC issue, it's an inspector's issue. If the fixture is UL listed, you will have voided the UL by mounting it in a fashion that it's not rated for. An inspector can flag the installation for this.

CD

+1. My thoughts exactly. NEC has no dog in this hunt. Strictly a UL discrepancy.

Personally, you're fine.

CT

 

[Falcon67]

My old hop used 4' chain hung lights. I mounted all to the joists with 1x2 spacers to allow air to circulate and hardwired.

The new shop uses 8' 4 bulb T8s, way fewer lights to wire. I wired in from the attic to the first light in a series, then ran MC cable from fixture to fixture along the ceiling. Makes for easy reconfiguration should I decide I want things different.