That 10” auger I pictured was $9300 ….. plus the motor. I’d need a quarter million in augers and motors![]()
Makes the fancy plugs seem cheap!
That 10” auger I pictured was $9300 ….. plus the motor. I’d need a quarter million in augers and motors![]()
Just need more of that sweet, sweet farmer subsidy moneyBecause they put wheels on them and make us think they’re portable
And to use them for 16hrs a year to unload a bin doesn’t really warrant an auger per bin
That 10” auger I pictured was $9300 ….. plus the motor. I’d need a quarter million in augers and motors![]()
Can't use 10-30 or 10-50's. Either use 6-30, 6-50 or 14-30, 14-50. Not sure you are easily going to find 6-30,6-50 pigtails.If I were wiring a 240 Compressor in a shop of my own, I would seriously consider using a pigtail for either an electric range or a Dryer, with an appropriate receptacle.
That would also be my local disconnect.
My compressor is on wheels and can easily be moved away from anything it may be very close to.
Good call. I think I may explore putting an ethanol production facility here as well. May as well cut out the middle man. I’d sell what we couldn’t drink or use on the farm.Just need more of that sweet, sweet farmer subsidy money
Seeing stuff like that is definitely interesting.Hubbell makes a disconnect switch with an interlock that works with safety shroud Twist-lock connectors. This may be an option to consider for those needing a code complaint solution for some larger motors that need to move/relocate. This seems like it could be an elegant solution to the problem compared to other (pin/sleeve) options.
https://www.hubbell.com/hubbellcana...ngle-conductor-terminal-screws-gray/p/4623253
As other have advised the o.p though, just have your new (real) electrician hard wire the compressor.
My understanding is that since the connector is not (can't be) used as a disconnect, the hp rating of the connector is no longer an issue as long as the voltage/amperage rating is good. Your local inspector might have a different interpretation. Real electricians, please comment if you care to...Seeing stuff like that is definitely interesting.
But it's $700 before adding the receptacle and those still won't be 5+ hp rated
How is the plug prevented from being used as a disconnect?My understanding is that since the connector is not (can't be) used as a disconnect, the hp rating of the connector is no longer an issue as long as the voltage/amperage rating is good. Your local inspector might have a different interpretation. Real electricians, please comment if you care to...
Yes it is not cheap, https://circuitbreakerguys.com/products/hblmitl , but it gives you the nice clear disconnect switch and total cost could be significantly cheaper than pin/sleeve. (Imagine a situation where you had you multiple devices that needed to plug into a single receptacle)
Disclaimer- Remember folks, all of my free advice on the internet comes with a double your money back guarantee!
There is a mechanical interlock incorporated into the disconnect which works with safety shroud, water-tight Twist-lock connectors.How is the plug prevented from being used as a disconnect?
At your house?
Why not hardwire them then and let the breakers be the required disconnects.
How's that work when he needs the auger across the farm?