Plumbing Air Lines (Q's)
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kartracer55
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I am in the middle of installing my system as well. What sort of CFM does your compressor put out? If its one of the craftsman portables that puts out liek 5 cfm and your going to be using a nialer with it, no need to be running over 1/2 line. Our new compressor puts out 20CFM, so we ran/are running 3/4 line. We used copper, and no need to silver solder, 95/9 tin antimony solder will hold very well. 50/50 would probably work as well, but I wouldt andvise it. Silver solder is a P-I-T-A and is overkilling it. if your talkin about a compressor that puts out like 25 or better cfm at 90, up to 1 inch. We Ran type L copper. threaded is a pain in the *** if you either A dont work with it for a living, or B dont have the threading tool to make custom lengths.
As far as in the walls or out of the walls, It all depends on which you like better. out side the walls will give it an industrial look, and you wont need to tear anything down to put it up. Also, its a big problem if a sweated joint ever fails. Just remember for a drop, install the T facing UP and loop it out of the top and around. Then t the hose and regulator out of the side, and put a small valve on the bottom of the drop. The t out the top will cause the drop to only pick up dry air. Dont cheap out with a filter either, They will keep your tools going strong for a long time.
Remember to use hydraulic or High pressure braided steel line between the lines and your compressor to eliminate vibrations. Secure the lines frequently to help eliminate the vibration which will cause sweated joints to fail over time.
Any other questions, PM me.
The the quality of SPEEDAIRE filters/regs from grainger seem to be very good, so if you have an account or know somebody who does, I highly recomend them.
Jim
As far as in the walls or out of the walls, It all depends on which you like better. out side the walls will give it an industrial look, and you wont need to tear anything down to put it up. Also, its a big problem if a sweated joint ever fails. Just remember for a drop, install the T facing UP and loop it out of the top and around. Then t the hose and regulator out of the side, and put a small valve on the bottom of the drop. The t out the top will cause the drop to only pick up dry air. Dont cheap out with a filter either, They will keep your tools going strong for a long time.
Remember to use hydraulic or High pressure braided steel line between the lines and your compressor to eliminate vibrations. Secure the lines frequently to help eliminate the vibration which will cause sweated joints to fail over time.
Any other questions, PM me.
The the quality of SPEEDAIRE filters/regs from grainger seem to be very good, so if you have an account or know somebody who does, I highly recomend them.
Jim
motorheadjohn
Well-known member
I can understand the tidiness of running air lines inside the wall. But I moved from Calif to Virginia in late 2003. My air system (3-car garage) was done with L copper and brass unions every 8-12 foot and channel to mount everything. I was able to take that system down in less than 2 hours, including dumping the compressor, disconnecting it, and unbolting it from the floor. You spend a lot of money building your system, would be a shame not to take it with you if you moved. Not everybody is into shops and working on stuff, the next guy may not view it as anything of value when bidding on your home.
kartracer55
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bmwpower said:
I think thats about right then isnt it?
Jim
cunninglinguist
Active member
Hey guys, new member here. I just did my garage with copper lines with 3 outlets. I wanted to ask if I should have 1 hose only for the 3 outlets and move the hose around wherever i needed it or 1 hose per outlet. I'm not sure if 3 hoses will get in the way.
kartracer55
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We acutaly just finished plumbing our garage today. We put all of our drops on the cieling, and used big 3/8 body quick connects, so the hoses wont be in the way when not in use. It all depends on where your drops are really, and how much room you have. If you have your drops on the wall, and can spare some wall space, go right ahead and put in hose reels. If your shop isnt that big, Id get some 25ft coilhoses, and you will be able to simply hang them up. If you could get an overal picture of your shop up so we can see the drop locations, I think we could better help you.
Jim
Jim
cunninglinguist
Active member
kartracer55 said:
Heres my little corner of the world:
Theres an outlet left and right of the scissorlift workbench and 1 right beside the fire extinguisher next of the wooden workbench.
kartracer55
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Ahh, thanks for the pictures. What I would do, If I were you, is get a big 3/8 BODY coupler and stick it right at the drop over by the workbench there, and get a short coil/memory type hose. Nothin special, but 3/8 Id to run an air tool/ you see to be at a lack of space in that general area, and so being able to store the hose elsewhere would be a BIG plus.
As for the drop on the wall, To the right of the lift, I would get something like this...
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...?storeId=6970&productId=200310797&R=200310797
In whatever size/style that fits you needs. Id also Do another quick coupler set up on that center post there like over by the workbench.
The other thing I would consider doing is maybe sticking one of these...
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...tDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=23151&R=23151
Up high on that center post, probably facing outwards, towards the garage doors, or on the ceiling right by it. Get a 50 footer, and you will be able to use it all over the garage, and have it up high and out of the way when your not using it, and stick a quick coupler on the drop on the wall there, so you have the option of hooking up another hose.
You will be able to get yourself setup with a few big connectors and maybe a handcrank reel and a coilhose or two for about 100, maybe a bit more. The second methodwill probably be closer to 200, if not a little more.
Maybe this will help in you making your decisions. After reading my posts, You might begin to get the idea that I have some sort of fetish with coilhoses, but let me tell you how handy they really are. My regulators have two gauge ports on them, and they give you a plug for the one you dont use. so what I did on the regulator that hangs down int he center of the garage, is connect a 1/4 id coilhose for inflating tires, blowguns and that sort of thing. they are much easier to work with than your usual big hoses for air tools. This is another thing to think about. I would considder installing a permanent little coilhose in the front of the garage for these basic tasks. They are like $10-15 from home desperate.
I didnt notice any filters or regulators on your system. but maybe they just cant be seen in the picture. I can express how important they really are in saving your air tools. Never run unregulated air in an airtool motor, the high PSI will kill them in no time. On the drops, Id also recomend installing little valves at the very bottom to get rid of any other moisture or anything in the lines like that. Ill get you some pictures of what we did.
I think I covered everything I wanted to say, but maybe Ill add a bit more. Feel free to ask me to clarify what I said for you, as it is late and Im tired, so what I write might not be what I want to say lol
Jim
As for the drop on the wall, To the right of the lift, I would get something like this...
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...?storeId=6970&productId=200310797&R=200310797
In whatever size/style that fits you needs. Id also Do another quick coupler set up on that center post there like over by the workbench.
The other thing I would consider doing is maybe sticking one of these...
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/...tDisplay?storeId=6970&productId=23151&R=23151
Up high on that center post, probably facing outwards, towards the garage doors, or on the ceiling right by it. Get a 50 footer, and you will be able to use it all over the garage, and have it up high and out of the way when your not using it, and stick a quick coupler on the drop on the wall there, so you have the option of hooking up another hose.
You will be able to get yourself setup with a few big connectors and maybe a handcrank reel and a coilhose or two for about 100, maybe a bit more. The second methodwill probably be closer to 200, if not a little more.
Maybe this will help in you making your decisions. After reading my posts, You might begin to get the idea that I have some sort of fetish with coilhoses, but let me tell you how handy they really are. My regulators have two gauge ports on them, and they give you a plug for the one you dont use. so what I did on the regulator that hangs down int he center of the garage, is connect a 1/4 id coilhose for inflating tires, blowguns and that sort of thing. they are much easier to work with than your usual big hoses for air tools. This is another thing to think about. I would considder installing a permanent little coilhose in the front of the garage for these basic tasks. They are like $10-15 from home desperate.
I didnt notice any filters or regulators on your system. but maybe they just cant be seen in the picture. I can express how important they really are in saving your air tools. Never run unregulated air in an airtool motor, the high PSI will kill them in no time. On the drops, Id also recomend installing little valves at the very bottom to get rid of any other moisture or anything in the lines like that. Ill get you some pictures of what we did.
I think I covered everything I wanted to say, but maybe Ill add a bit more. Feel free to ask me to clarify what I said for you, as it is late and Im tired, so what I write might not be what I want to say lol
Jim
Ironpile
New member
pvc
Stupid or lucky? I have used pvc shedule 40 3/4 in in 3 different shops with only one problem. I was heating my paint booth with a propane heater on a really cold day and the room got to hot an burst a pipe. Turns out the connection was not cleaned properly when installed. I go overhead ,lot of length,several drops with petcocks below the outlet and a moisture trap. Painted lot of cars with no real issues with water. I do,as a precaution turn off the power when I leave for the nite. I`ve had more problems dropping heavy stuf on my high dollar hoses, Jerry
Stupid or lucky? I have used pvc shedule 40 3/4 in in 3 different shops with only one problem. I was heating my paint booth with a propane heater on a really cold day and the room got to hot an burst a pipe. Turns out the connection was not cleaned properly when installed. I go overhead ,lot of length,several drops with petcocks below the outlet and a moisture trap. Painted lot of cars with no real issues with water. I do,as a precaution turn off the power when I leave for the nite. I`ve had more problems dropping heavy stuf on my high dollar hoses, Jerry
trovato
Well-known member
The main issue is that when PVC fails, it does so rather explosively. What you're saying is like telling me you never wear your seat belt and you haven't died yet. Or you smoke two packs a day and you haven't got lung cancer yet. There are lots of things you can get away with for a while. Maybe forever. Doesn't make it a good idea.
gb387
Well-known member
trovato said:
Well said!
kartracer55
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Yeah I agree. I dont care if you have been painting cars for longer than Ive been around, and own $500 sata paint guns. The point is, that PVC has been known to fail explosivly. OSHA has a bunch of regs on it as well. Why not do it Right and safely the first time by using metal??? PVC might be cheaper, but really, when your saftey is involved, its not a good idea to cheap out. you wouldnt buy a motorcycle helmet for a set of tires from HF if they sold them would you???
Jim
Jim