Plumbing air lines - small garage

[ckucia]

I know the subject has been pretty much beat to death over the years, but in my searches/reading, I couldn't find much about smaller garages.

I have a small two car detached. It's about 17 x 17. The left half is my work space and the right half, I try to keep clear enough to pull a car in. It has a flat roof sloping towards the back and two garage doors with no man doors.

Planning on locating my compressor in the back corner of the work space area. I just have a single stage 110v model. I don't have 220 in the garage, and being that it's an old house, it isn't even an option without upgrading the whole house (believe it or not, I have 40 amp service to the entire house).
The compressor will supposedly put out 125 psi max.

Basically, I'd like to run a few short air lines to service a couple of work tables along the wall on one side, my main bench along the back wall, and run a line up the main beam to the front of the garage so I could run a spool close to the garage doors to make airing up the vehicles easy.

With a garage as small as mine, I could just live with a hose directly off the compressor, but the annoyance of knocking things over, getting it caught on whatever's being worked on, etc. - it would be a bit easier to have some hard lines on the wall and short hoses that don't get tangled up everywhere.

Mostly I'll be using the compressor for airing tires, blowing crud out of things, and perhaps an occassional air tool. I have a plastic welder that uses air, and I'd probably use it more often if I didn't have to haul out a hose and everything to set it up. Possible I might use a touch up gun to spray paint something small, but I can't paint something like a car in my neighborhood, so there's no point in setting myself up for that.

So I'm looking at around 50' of hard line.

If you were standing at one of the two garage doors looking in, I anticipate the line run would start at your left at the left garage door, sloping down slightly to the corner where the compressor is. Then it would continue across the back wall to the right, still sloping down until it reached the middle of the garage. Here there would be a drip leg with a drain valve and the line would go up to the ceiling, then run along the main beam up to the front of the garage where there'd be a fitting for my spool.

I figured I'd use Ts pointing up at several points along the left and back wall where I could attach air couplers. This would also allow me to move the compressor elsewhere in that half of the garage if the need arose. I'd also put a capped T on the run going up the back wall in case I'd ever want to extend the line round the right side of the garage.

All in all, I'm probably looking a 16' run with maybe 4 ports along the left wall, an 8' run along the back with 3 or 4 ports. Perhaps 4-5' up to the main beam, and another 16' to reach the front of the garage where I'd have the hose reel mounted hanging down on a 2x4 bracket off the main beam (I have to get it low enough that it's below the garage door tracks).

Figured 1/2 copper would be appopriate for a small setup like this. I'd run it on the face of the wall about 6-12" above workbench height.

Looking for criticism/comment/advice. Am I on the right track here? Would 3/4 copper be better, or is it not worth the extra cost in a small setup like mine?

I replumbed my house in copper (years ago when copper wasn't priced like a precious metal), so I can solder pretty competently.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I used black pipe for mine and bought a cheap threader just for this project. If I had something small like yours, compressor in back corner and the air along those two walls.

I think a drop in the corner by the compressor and maybe two others along each wall will be plenty. Put your hose reel on one of those drops. I used a Tee for connectors in places and put a drop on them. At the bottom of the drop, another tee (straight down and right/left) with a valve to drain the system. The right or left got a ****** and quick connect.

Having a small garage like you do, I think you could almost anything with a reel, another 25' section of hose and a yellow plastic coiled hose with a blow nozzle. Both of the latter have quick connects to allow movement around the garage but you can leave the coiled hose in place unless you need it elsewhere or that quick connect for the regular air line.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Here's a picture of one of my drops to give you an idea of what I was talking about.

 

[Falcon67]

I like iron, personally. I would slope away from the compressor and have drip lines below the drops.

Also - for misc work outside, consider adding a 50' HF hose reel at one end near the door. I have one in the shop and I use the heck out of it, especially for tires. It's 9' from the big door but it will reach from there all around a big pickup parked outside.

 

[sberry]

Read some of the other threads again, for some reason I have been attracted to this topic all week. Almost all of it has been on small garages. You don't need "a few", you need maybe a fixed whip, short piece in a convenient spot on a bench and a reel. The reel hooked to the compressor is primitive and I am all about reducing air lines in the way and on the floor but sheer numbers of options do not seem to help. One well placed hydrant is worth a hundred poorly engineered ones.

Same for water. I missed one under floor and in the end I did it overhead, actually changed it quite a bit. Did it twice. It moved the location of a hydrant for both outdoor and indoor.

Bact to small garage, a piece of pipe or 2 and a couple fittings for a simple manifold would suffice, if you want to reach outside a 50 ft hose on a reel. I saw a setup earlier in one of these threads that was rather well done where they had a short retractor in the bench work area and a manual by the door.

My neighbor has a small one car garage, has a similar comp in the corner near the electric panel and hangs a 35 ft hose on a hanger. Its really super slick, he is a master and got it down to a science.

 

[sberry]

Both of the latter have quick connects to allow movement around the garage but you can leave the coiled hose in place unless you need it elsewhere or that quick connect for the regular air line.

These quick connects are bad. This was my preaching point this week. The outlets should be connected to a hose or a hose reel, no moving hoses and in a professional environment this means no connect or disconnect of hot hoses.

I had an engineer in here for something a while back and it was a point he noticed, no one moves a hose from one point to another. The geometry, the location allow for easy ergonomic overlapping service from a couple of points, the connecting is all done at the tool.
There is only one female connector available to the end user, none on the walls but at the end of a hose where they belong.

Having said that I do have a few but they are for special circumstances hopefully under supervision but for shop work there is absolutely no reason to move a section of hose and good reason not to.

 

[sberry]

People have so much fixed, parasitic and portable equipment that one needs a lot of electric outlets but air is different, way more similar to water service. You try to put it where needed vs running a pipe for outlet every 4 ft.

 

[ckucia]

Thanks for all the advice.

I do have a HF reel that will go up towards the front of the garage so I can reach the vehicles. Also have an extension hose I could add to that since the one with the flat is always the one at the end of the driveway...

I'm really trying to avoid running a hose across the garage. It's what I've been doing and it's kind of a PITA.

I always have several projects going on at once between the house and the cars. Having a hose, besides being a trip hazard, is always catching on things or knocking things over. I'd much prefer to fab up short hoses right at the workstations. Might it be worth putting ball valves at the disconnects a the workstations? That would alleviate leakage and disconnecting hot.

Having the reel up front will let me reach anything in the garage, such as if I need an air tool working on the car - there's no way around that. But if I need an air tool or blow tip at the bench, I'd rather use a short hose off the wall than have it running across the floor or down from the ceiling behind me.

 

[ckucia]

Thinking about the space more, I really don't need as many outlets as I thought.

The two workstations along the left wall are going to have my mini lathe on one, and the drill press and grinder on the other. The only thing I'd really need air for at those stations is blowing chips/dust. That could realistically be accomplished with a relatively short hose just for that purpose - it wouldn't really be in the way as it wouldn't have to cross the main space. Most chips/dust I'd vacuum anyhow, which is a whole separate subject.

I have a large bench across the back where I'll do most of my work. Small welder in the corner with the compressor. Now there, it would make sense to put a few disconnects on the wall so I could keep hoses controlled. I don't really have the space on that wall for a reel unless I bought another and mounted it on the ceiling. I'll probably plumb it for that possibility.

I think I'll keep the line running to the front of the garage with a reel for outside. I definitely need that.

So I'd just need an 8' run across the back wall and then up the wall and 16' along the beam to the front for the reel.

 

[ckucia]

Here's a potential wrinkle...

The main beam is at a shallow angle to horizontal to match the roof slope.

If I had to guess from memory, I'd say something like 15 degrees, maybe less. Unlikely I'd be able to find a fitting with the exact angle.

Is the best solution a short length of rubber hose to make the transition, or is there a better way to do it?

I intend to have a short piece to connect the compressor to the hard lines to absorb the compressor vibration, so it would seem another short hose up by the ceiling would be fine.

 

[NHBandit]

My garage has used PVC pipe I found at the dump. The trick is to run some used garden hose stolen out of your neighbors yard to make the connection from the compressor to the PVC pipe flexible to minimize vibration. I can now use my sand blaster with the remaining 3 fingers on my right hand while holding a trash can lid in front of my face with my left hand.. "just in case it happens again" Hope this helps.

 

[sberry]

It would or could work but there are several ways to offset an angle or put it in a spot it doesn't matter. Think more simple, a 10 ft section of pre threaded pipe with a t or 2 and a coulple of risers with a reducing bushing to screw the hose reel lead to. My Bud had a sink supply valve at the bottom of a drop, a ****** he found.

Another easy deal is hyd hose at TSC is cheap, they got ready mades to 120 inches, a swivel for a union is 3 or 4.

 

[sberry]

Every piece of material in this that isn't steel has a limited service life. A hose at ground level is easy to work on. In your garage start with a 10 ft section of pipe on the floor, go from there screw a couple t's to each end, envision simple with most of it along a single wall or corner, screw it together and rest it on some 16 nails to get elevation, run hose to it after a service valve coming out of the comp.

 

[sberry]

I think with limited space mounting a short retractor in the ceiling is a good idea and worth the effort.

I like the pic Falcon has above but would take the coupling out, hook 25 ft retractor in and mount on wall above the reg.

This reminds me I have an old hose on a reel outdoor that has been there for years. Really should be replaced, I cut a few ft off each year now. I really have a few connectors I can remove, they were installed mostly as prototypes and screwing the whip direct would as good and maybe better, couplings leak even among the diligent.

 

[NUTTSGT]

These quick connects are bad. This was my preaching point this week. The outlets should be connected to a hose or a hose reel, no moving hoses and in a professional environment this means no connect or disconnect of hot hoses.

I had an engineer in here for something a while back and it was a point he noticed, no one moves a hose from one point to another. The geometry, the location allow for easy ergonomic overlapping service from a couple of points, the connecting is all done at the tool.
There is only one female connector available to the end user, none on the walls but at the end of a hose where they belong.

Having said that I do have a few but they are for special circumstances hopefully under supervision but for shop work there is absolutely no reason to move a section of hose and good reason not to.

This would be what ? Your personal opinion ?

I don't want a hose reel in my garage, atleast not at this time. Nor do I want a permanently attached air hose in here either. I am perfectly fine with having quick connects and using a 25' section of hose where I need it.

Air hose placement is all personal preference and everybody's choice is different.

 

[sberry]

I don't want a hose reel in my garage, atleast not at this time. Nor do I want a permanently attached air hose in here either. I am perfectly fine with having quick connects and using a 25' section of hose where I need it.

Air hose placement is all personal preference and everybody's choice is different.

It is 2 things, its an opinion and you can do it any way you want, doesn't make it correct advice for someone designing a system. Its not a fatal flaw, my own system isn't perfect.

We all seem to be picky on the correct way which is not to have to unhook a coupler with a charged air hose behind it, ( this isn't just my opinion but from someone with a mind greater than my own) as I said before its probably more applicable with multiple men in a commercial shop, it eliminates the optional choices, when its easy and configured right everyone doesn't try to work around it. Kind of like a sidewalk, not designed correctly everyone takes a shortcut across the lawn.

 

[sberry]

The first pic the reel serves both indoor and outdoor, thisd door is open if we are out there, the second was a cheap solution to the occasiona tire fill in that parft of the shop and there was a temptation to leave a hose coiled there even though we didn't use it but on occasion for some body work. No good for freezing temps but for 50$ it is handy/ Pic 3 above, reel outdoor on apron, might blow something off after wash or fill tires without going in to building.

I need to replace the hose and make a real weather cover hutch for it, we needed it when we needed it. Below is a pic of reg with valve, could have the extra hydrant removed, we don't use it, only thing it serves is that reel.

2nd and 3rd are the same setup different times. There are qa couple places to connect hi pressure ahead of the reg but no handy spare equipment to do so, its got to be a deliberate act.

That was an HF reel, was some ridiculus cheap price with hose that turned out to work well, had some rings to weld on the fingers though, the 4 finger reel is not good. The beveled rapid reel style work well if no swivel base is available.

 

[sberry]

I put this baby in for paint, can regulate the single reel. I add 10 ft whip section to it if I am going to paint a car. You can see where when I stuck it up there had a pile of fittings and we had some big job spread out, figured we would lay another hose to the backside but finally robbed the couple for use elsewhere.

 

[CNGsaves]

^ ^ ^ Sberry . . . Some of these cobbled up pictures with rubber hoses held on with hose clamps is NOT selling your "idea" (whatever that is).

Your viewpoint is "Fixed whips" and "Couple hose reels" to cover garage - - - we got that.

OP has a small garage where he wants several drops . . . no big deal !! Also, there is no harm with having a couple good quality hose sections that are moved around to quick connects. OP does not need to worry about employees stealing the hose . . . it's HIS own shop.

Quick connects surely will hold air pressure and last long-term better than relying on cobbled up hose with hose clamps.

I consider quick connects as part of hard-line airline system, and way to minimize portions that are pressured with just rubber. Actually there should be shutoff valve where ever any pressurized rubber line exists - - - most likely location of blow-out is rubber. Forget to shut off compressor over weekend and rely on rubber line . . . you might have dead compressor after it runs for 3 days straight when rubber line blows out.

 

[Spareparts]

A lot of good points here, where the compressor is located should be the highest point in your system, the moisture will travel to the lowest point to be blown out. You said your are going to use copper with the "T" going up, then I would use a couple of street ells to face the line down with a short piece of tubing going down the walls to a convient height for you. Then another ball valve to a "T" for a reducer to attach either a Quick Coupling or air hose to that. At the bottom of the "T" put another valve to blow out any moisture that gets in the drop. Put as many drops as you want/need to satisify YOU. When I did mine I put the trunk line with all the drops I wanted and put ball valves on all the drops with a short 6" tube so I could sweat any fittings I wanted without effecting the valves with heat. I made 2 drops functional and did the rest when funds became available, took awhile but it is nice to have air anywhere in the shop. Another thing I did was raise the compressor 8" off the floor to easily drain it, seems people forget to do this because it is inconvient to get to. I likr the copper because it is convient to splice in "T,s" anywhere you want without getting out the pipe wrenches to make any changes. Good Luck and build it for you.

 

[sberry]

Actually a hose barb and a clamp works well, is a swivel, easily serviced as hose ages. I am not saying don't plumb enough but when a guy has a 17x and says a few here and a few there a bit of practical experience says his view or perspective is skewed.

I am all for tailoring where its practical but simplicity reduces so many problems. Look at how many threads asking what sealer for the 8 extra fittings at a connection that was installed piecemeal off a ladder at great expense.

A guy is more inclined to do a little when its affordable. Its not as hard and takes a lot of sting out of it when its a hundred bucks to get around to it vs 400. This is not for everyone, not for everybody to give a **** and some of you know more than most people do about such things, my babble isn't for you.

You give a **** about time, money and practical then I see this done about every which way it can. I will say there might be concern about rubber line, I have had them work from age and bend/leak at a connection, even this HF one been outside 15 fukkin years is still working and have never had a blowoff. I got hoses well over 20 yrs old, more than that and if they are damaged or fatigue I repair them. I use crimp clamps at user end of hoses but am not above a hose clamp.

 

[sberry]

I see a local tire store, owned by a polo shirt guy but the air is pitiful. All the college and it must never have occurred to him to move a pipe or fitting. It cost them a lot daily, trips, hose damage and continuous moving, sorry thing is that the fixes would be minor. It falls right behind no lights too though.

 

[FTG-05]

Without reading all the replies (wifey unit is calling me to dinner - YUM YUM! (The dinner you ingrates - well ok, the wu is pretty yum yum too!)):

I went through the same analysis for my new to me shop, 36x76 +/-. Originally, it was going to be black pipe or go home. But then I did the cost analysis of having it installed vs. doing it myself - and copper turned out to be about a $50 difference (materials price only) - which, in the big scheme of things is not really all that much. Unlike you, I have about +160' to put in. I can't turn black pipe, but I can solder copper pipe. And one of my priorities (see below) is to put drops when and where I want them, not when a 10' Lowes/HD stick of BI tells me to.

I totally agree with Sberry about permanent hose connections. This, I believe, is the reason my current very small air system leaks as it does. In my new air system, all hoses will be permanently mounted and installed with no leaky QDs involved.

And, taking a note from MTWs previous inputs on compressed air systems, I plan to design and install my air drops the exact same way the FSA votes: Drain Early and Drain Often. Every air use will have a drop, plus I plan to have +400 lbs of steel to drain air temps as soon as possible.

On size: I wouldn't even bother with 1/2" mains, just me. My main will be 1" splitting into 3/4" trunks in a racetrack configuration (very little dead ends). No way I'm spending all this $$$ on an air compressed system only to have an OH **** moment a couple years down the road and discover I need more capacity and can't deliver due to restrictive infrastructure.

Good luck, I hope this helps!

 

[sberry]

I got nothing against size but can say from a practical matter 3/4 on a hi pressure main will run a half a dozen men in a body shop easily, 15 hp comp. Pressure drop is miniscule especially with low demand. You would never notice 2 or 3 tools on at the same time.

I have a couple long 3/4 runs, by the time it gets to the reg and then 50 ft of 3/8 its the same deal, can let enough air thru blowing down a water system or sandblasting (I do have 1/2 for that most of the time) but it will drain both comps in a hurry.

There is usually 1 place air can be a problem and its rare but big impacts, usually way more than found in home or light truck shops. Have ran a lot of 1 inch heavy air guns from quite long 3/4 hose for Ironwork.

 

[NUTTSGT]

These quick connects are bad. This was my preaching point this week. The outlets should be connected to a hose or a hose reel, no moving hoses and in a professional environment this means no connect or disconnect of hot hoses.

Now you really have me confused

Quick connects are bad ?

Post 17, left picture, Hose reel is fed by a yellow air line and appears that is attached to a quick-connect. There's also what looks like a quick-connect on the right side of the regulator.

center picture, red hose for the reel fed by a quick connect and another quick-connect coming out 90° from that Tee.

Post 18, left picture, quick-connect coming out of the regulator.

Center and right picture are the same, quick-connect coming out of the Sharp regulator. Another quick-connect coming out of the regulator prior to the Sharpe regulator.

Post 19 left picture, I see another quick-connect after the regulator.


Am I missing something or just misunderstanding what you are saying? You say quick-connects are bad yet, you have plenty of them.

 

[wintermute]

Here's a potential wrinkle...

The main beam is at a shallow angle to horizontal to match the roof slope.

If I had to guess from memory, I'd say something like 15 degrees, maybe less. Unlikely I'd be able to find a fitting with the exact angle.

Is the best solution a short length of rubber hose to make the transition, or is there a better way to do it?…

Use a pair of 90º elbows to hit your angle (maybe a coupler between if needed). The top line will be offset from the vertical a little bit, but you could achieve any angle.

 

[sberry]

Yes, I did mention that these extra couplers could and should be removed as they are not needed and not for general use, no need as there is a hose available which is already connected. My neighbor has a simple system, the only coupler is at the end of a hose.

I think in last pic you can see the coupler in use which has been abandoned, it went to the hoist line, again this wasn't something the operator would disconnect in general use, it was plugged in for years. The whips that go to hoist are fixed. No way to unplug and move the hose.

 

[mds5951]

This is your garage. No reason to idiot proof it with "no serviceable disconnect" and further more no reason to clutter it up with extra hoses that you can't take off.

If this were a commercial manufacturing facility and/or production line I can see the advantage of having lines your employees can't tamper with or grab someone else's, etc..... But it's not.

Even tho I have 4 drops in my garage I use one hose, which via the miracle of quick connects--can travel, and when I'm don't I can roll it up and throw it on the shelf or on a hook.

Also if you're incapable of holding on to a hot hose while releasing it maybe you should invest in some of those prevost style fittings, or turn in your man card.

 

[CNGsaves]

^ ^ ^ ^ wned: . . . .

 

[sberry]

You already know all of this so its not for you and its likely you know more about it than I do, probably smarter than I am too. It seems a guy can buy a few fittings and the first garage he plumbs becomes an expert. If it bit back like electric I bet it would be different. He can do it any way he wants, no argument there. This is for people who think its too complicated or difficult or expensive.

Its not and doesn't have to be to start or put a few tailored items in. It doesn't take but 2 or 3 threads about what air line should I use to come up with the same basic questions.

50$ to put in a place where one 2$T and a bigger pipe wrench or stronger guy did it wouldn't have the problem. Not only that give the guy a pat on the back for adding 6 extra fittings and a hose at each point,,, good job Billy,,, atta boy,,, then back here asking what pipe seal fixes leaks,,, where did you guys learn to do this work?

The rapid air stuff is nice but its a hose,,, why is there an elbow even in it? Kind of defeats the purpose of hose in many cases. Additions from black and steel are cheap and easy and so many are found used, I also have tapped on a bunch of used pieces on the end.

3rd. If a guy is interested in garage this is as good a place as any to learn and get some experience with a pipe wrench, stand at the store and stare at the fittings. Read the tags and learn the names of the parts. How they describe and list sizes.

There is nothing fundamentally not functional about a 2 car garage plumbed with a shopping cart full of pipe fittings in 3 sizes and a bill on the CC but it doesn't scream professional either.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I'm trying to figure out why, in a 17x17 building (working on VW's ?) why you want to bother with air plumbing at all. The most that I would do would be an air reel in the top center, probably toward the back, with a hose running up to it (or use PEX).

Charles

 

[Falcon67]

I'll also add - you can cheat if you like. I use 98% iron. But there are two drops that would just be hell to plumb, so I put a T off an existing line and ran some 150 PSI rated black Goodyear hose to those points.

I also forgot to add - Your main issue in a small shop will be water control. You'll really want to try and put a kick **** filter close to the compressor because little comps make water like a rain cloud. Biggest issue I had with my old smaller shop.

 

[sberry]

I'm trying to figure out why, in a 17x17 building (working on VW's ?) why you want to bother with air plumbing at all. The most that I would do would be an air reel in the top center, probably toward the back, with a hose running up to it (or use PEX).

Charles, you and I must think similarly or different from the rest of the gang on this subject.

BTW, played air plumber most of the day today, had a fitting bust off right in my hand. So I have a regulator with busted ****** in it and no spare, its really stuck, I am going to take it apart and drill/tap it. Should replace it, old sheet. I use that circuit with a whip at my bench so I found 25 ft of hose and a T and fed it from another reg as a temp.

After the fiasco of chasing a couple leaks prompted by this thread spent 2 hrs blowing out undergrounds for the season.

There is a rubber washer in these couplings, its simple and common, anyone know about such things like where to order a few or some outfit that stocks them. I fixed 2 today, I flipped them over

 

[sberry]

I did have a spare didn't think of it. Looks like a couple bracket designers had their hand in the 2nd pic,, ha. I think its been used about once since it was installed.

 

[ckucia]

Just a little update...

I don't have any pics, but I finished my air lines last night.

I took a slightly different approach than I planned once I started adding up the costs of fittings.

My compressor is in the back corner next to my main workbench.

Rather than mounting the lines on the wall, I mounted the line on the bench.

Basically took a 3' piece of rubber hose from the compressor to the back of the workbench. That mates to a 1/2 copper line running along the back of the bench sloping downwards. The 1/2 is far larger than the compressor's output port, so I reasoned it was plenty for my needs. At the end of the bench there's a T with one leg capped off for future expansion, and the line continues to the front of the bench.

Here, there's another T, one leg goes down to a drip leg with a valve - the lowest point in the system. The other goes through a hole in the bench behind the legs, then pops out to what is essentially a three port manifold with three disconnect fittings. These end up about 2' from the corner of the bench (my vice is in the corner).

So, I have three ports where I can use short hoses to run air tools right there at the bench. I can also easily plug in a 10' hose to reach the other two workstations. I figured the only need for air at the lathe/drill press/grinder was to blow chips and clean up - not worth the cost for a permanent fitting. I don't intend to use all three ports simultaneously - it's more for convenience so I can keep multiple tools connected at once making them easier to switch around as needed without having a maze of hoses all over the place.

The next phase will be to tap the expansion port at the rear of the bench, to go up the wall, along the main beam to the front of the garage where I'll have a reel for airing tires or running air tools while working on the cars. I can also reach a car in the garage with one of the ports on the bench if I need to.

It's less ambitious than I originally wanted, but better than having to reach over the bench to hook a hose onto the compressor, then running it across whatever I'm working on and through the middle of the room where it becomes a trip hazard. It's also not permanently attached so if we were ever going to sell the house, it goes with the bench.

It ended up costing me almost $100 for the copper lines, fittings and some solder that I ran out of. Can't believe the price of brass fittings these days - makes copper seem reasonably priced.

Anyhow, for the line to the front of the garage, I have a 50' plastic air hose that I despise. It works well enough, but it has so much memory that it entangles itself every time I try to use it and just won't lay flat. I've tripped over it more times than I can count.

Was thinking I might use that to run from the back of the garage to the front by just clamping it to the beam like a hard line. It's not ideal, but it would cost very little. I don't leave the compressor on at night, so it it only lasts a few years, it's no big deal. Is there any other downside to this besides it not being a permanent solution (and being kinda hokey)?

 

[sberry]

There is nothing wrong with hanging a hose up out of the way to make it convenient. I am all for avoiding the trip hazards, it is a "real" problem with probabilities hundreds of times higher than all the "what if" put together. It took a couple small moves to get ours just right, the most with the least and you seem to have worked toward that as a solution, its easier and cheaper than planning for every contingency a group can collectively conceive.

 

[hedhunter9]

Another easy deal is hyd hose at TSC is cheap, they got ready mades to 120 inches, a swivel for a union is 3 or 4.[/QUOTE]

I wouldnt use Hyd. Hose. it is made for high pressure liquid. Not air.

We used some for our hi-pressure fill stations and found the outer coating bubbling up.

With low pressure, it "might" not bubble and leak, but over time who knows?

Bob

 

[J Persons]

I use a TSC hydraulic 3/4" hose from my compressor to the hard line. It's been in for several month now with no sign of distress. I do shut down the pressure at the tank when it is not in use though. At $25.00, I can replace the TSC hyd hose several time over, rather than buying a hose rated for air pressure.

 

[RickP]

Was thinking I might use that to run from the back of the garage to the front by just clamping it to the beam like a hard line. It's not ideal, but it would cost very little. I don't leave the compressor on at night, so it it only lasts a few years, it's no big deal. Is there any other downside to this besides it not being a permanent solution (and being kinda hokey)?

Clamping the hose to the ceiling would work. I like having the flexibility of using the hose in other areas as well, though. I bought a steel hose reel at HF and mounted it near the back of the garage. With 150' of cheap air hose, it reaches anywhere I need outside the garage. Since I only use it outside temporarily, I don't mind winding it up manually when I'm finished with it.

 

[ckucia]

I actually planned on running the hose from the back to the front of the garage and then attach the hose reel to it at the front of the garage. Not sure if I made that clear.

I'd rather run a hard line, but since its going to run along the ceiling, I don't foresee any damage. Mostly, though, I already have the hose, am not going to use it as a hose because of it's PITA quotient, and it's about a 20' run and that ends up being a chunk of change in copper or iron that I could spend on other things right now. My hose is "free" since I already have it.

Probably would need a few more brackets than with hard line to keep the hose from sagging and pooling condensation, but I may already have enough of them lying around too.