Plumbing DWV question

[Platonic Solid]

I have 2” ABS DWV pipe leading to a drywell which provides drainage for a utility sink, washing machine, forced air gas condensing furnace with A/C and steam humidifier.

The furnace w A/C and humidifier are in the garage. Behind them, separated by the utility room wall, are the sink and washing machine.

The furnace, A/C and humidifier drain into a condensate pump which pumps the water up through the wall and into the same inlet as the washing machine.

Since the 2” DWV pipe passes right next to the furnace (1ft away) I would like to get rid of the condensate pump and “T” into the DWV pipe. If it matters, the pipe distance from the washing machine to the furnace is about 10 ft.

The furnace condensate drain is 21” from the floor.
The 2” DWV pipe is 6” from the floor, thus leaving me 15” from furnace drain to DWV pipe.

My thought is to put a properly directed “T” into the DWV line with a trap and Oatey Sure-Vent.

Now comes the question:

Are the utility sink and washing machine likely to overflow through a DWV opening at 18” from the floor (12” from the DWV pipe)?

Thank you.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Normally a washing machine is required to be on its on 2" line till it reaches a 3".

 

[DC73]

Sounds like it could work. You may just have to do it, test it and then put it back if it doesn't.

But, what about some type of check valve. Maybe like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007UQN89W/?tag=atomicindus08-20

DC

 

[Platonic Solid]

Sounds like it could work. You may just have to do it, test it and then put it back if it doesn't.

But, what about some type of check valve. Maybe like this one:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007UQN89W/?tag=atomicindus08-20

DC

I'll try it without the check valve and see what happens. This all started cause the furnace condensate line started leaking yesterday. Looks like a MacGyver Job (that was done by a "professional"). I don't think you're supposed to use copper there. I was just thinking if I have to mess with it, I might as well clean it up and simplify it. I'll exit the drain from the left side of the furnace.

zmaxmotorsports, I don't think the small amount of condensate and humidifier drainage will have any impact as far as the 2" pipe capacity goes, but it's good to know the rule. Thx.

​

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Why in the world was the install done that way?
I haven't done a 90 plus install in a long time,Ill see if I can find a picture for you of the condensate drain plumbing fo you.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Heres a picture of a basic set up,not one of mine.Your humidifier drain can just be ran into extra hole in pump.

 

[Platonic Solid]

The "extra" plumbing (copper) was added after I complained that the furnace was making a high pitched noise unless I removed the air filter. I read the manual and when I got to the air filter section, I realized they had used my old much smaller air filter duct work rather than install the substantially larger filter box that came with the unit.

I see in the last picture they chose not to use a trap. not sure what the purpose of a trap in that area is anyway. The manual says that a trap is not required on that line unless it is required by code.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Here are 2 options. Which is better? Is there anything wrong with going the Option "B" route? It's certainly simpler. If the trap is below the DWV line I see no reason to put a vent in.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Substitute a wye for the san tee in the main line coming from the washer,use no hub couplings to connect the wye to the existing line.(not ferncos)
Abs fittings are getting tougher to find atleast around here anyway,do not glue abs/pvc fittings together.

 

[the gypsy]

Hi zmaxmotorsports, I would like to know which is better PVC or ABS. Up here in Montreal we have no problem finding ABS fittings and pipe. Another question is why are you suggesting that the ABS and PVC not be glued?

I am a DIYer and more knowledge is always better.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Substitute a wye for the san tee in the main line coming from the washer,use no hub couplings to connect the wye to the existing line.(not ferncos)

Dang, you're tough. I considered using Ferncos but then thought better of it and opted for ABS repair hub couplings, which I believe you're saying NO to. So now my cut better be darn near perfect and hopefully can make enough play in the main line to get the "T" in.

I'm going to buy a PVC cutter, so that should make this a little easier. There wasn't much to choose from at either big box store. I selected this one: Superior Tool 2-1/2-in PVC Cutter

Abs fittings are getting tougher to find atleast around here anyway,do not glue abs/pvc fittings together.

I was making my list via filling a Home Depot and Lowes shopping cart, search only in-stock items. HD had almost none of the ABS fittings, but Lowes did.

Thank you

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Hi zmaxmotorsports, I would like to know which is better PVC or ABS. Up here in Montreal we have no problem finding ABS fittings and pipe. Another question is why are you suggesting that the ABS and PVC not be glued?

I am a DIYer and more knowledge is always better.

They quit using abs around here around 20 years ago for the most part,lots of law suits over it.
Abs and pvc are different materials,arent supposed to be glued together.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Dang, you're tough. I considered using Ferncos but then thought better of it and opted for ABS repair hub couplings, which I believe you're saying NO to. So now my cut better be darn near perfect and hopefully can make enough play in the main line to get the "T" in.

I'm going to buy a PVC cutter, so that should make this a little easier. There wasn't much to choose from at either big box store. I selected this one: Superior Tool 2-1/2-in PVC Cutter

I was making my list via filling a Home Depot and Lowes shopping cart, search only in-stock items. HD had almost none of the ABS fittings, but Lowes did.

Thank you

You can use abs couplings,just make sure to use the right glue with them.No hub couplings would just make it easier to get things where you want them on the main line youre cutting in to.
Ferncos are the rubber couplings with hose clamps on them,theyre made for underground use outside of footing of house,no hub couplings are shielded for indoor use.
The fitting on left is a no hub coupling,also made by fernco.The fitting on the right is a plain old rubber fernco that's made to be used outside.

 

[Platonic Solid]

OK, so it's acceptable to use the fernco on the left, which was the original plan.

The condensate lines are currently PVC. I have a bunch of CPVC. I see in the NIBCO Plastic Pipe Fitting catalog (pages 73 & 74) that PVC and CPVC have different I.D. and O.D.
Do they make fittings to connect PVC to CPVC?
I assume there's no problem using either in a condensate drain application.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

If youre going to do it Id make a stand pipe like for a washing machine coming off the 2" abs pipe.
Then run the drains over to it,make sure to leave some sort of air gap between the stand pipe and the drain lines.

 

[Platonic Solid]

If youre going to do it Id make a stand pipe like for a washing machine coming off the 2" abs pipe.
Then run the drains over to it,make sure to leave some sort of air gap between the stand pipe and the drain lines.

OK, I'll put a Wye on top. There should be plenty of air gap either way since I'm putting two 3/4" pipes in a 2" ABS opening.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

Terminate the pieces of 3/4 just above the 2",also laying the wye on its side instead of up/down will gain you a couple inches to run the 3/4 above the 2" easier.
Just make sure you have a little fall back to the 2".

 

[the gypsy]

The ABS comment is interesting. Any idea what the lawsuits consisted of? ABS is very common here. And may you explain what is the difference between a wye and a sanitary tee, not in appearance but in purpose. And does it make a big difference.

 

[zmaxmotorsports]

The ABS comment is interesting. Any idea what the lawsuits consisted of? ABS is very common here. And may you explain what is the difference between a wye and a sanitary tee, not in appearance but in purpose. And does it make a big difference.

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...DFdRWLg4z4Rzv1RSwila3kQ&bvm=bv.83339334,d.cGU
Eats easier for water to flow/transition through a wye than a san tee laying on its back or side.
A wye basically gives the water a little guidance on where to go,where as the san tee just kinds of dumps it and hopes for the best making it easier to clog up in that area.
Its a lot easier to get a cable around a wye for the same reason if you have a clog to clear out.
We are not even allowed to lay a san tee on its back or side for a vent line in Omaha,some other areas aren't as picky about it.

 

[the gypsy]

Thank you zmax.