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plumbing problem

moobeast2

Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2011
Messages
21
Location
Central NY
I just installed a new water softener, pressure booster pump and cistern in my basement. We have a well located a long ways from our house and pressure and flow have always been mediocre. So I put a 100 gallon tank in the basement to fill from the well (with a float valve), then used that to supply pressure booster pump (Grundfos 1 HP). Problem is, there is no discernible increase in either pressure or flow.

I'm wondering if the softener or whole house filter is the problem. The order of equipment is: water tank --> pump -->filter -->softener --> house lines. Should I try running the water through the filter and softener before it goes into the tank?

The pump itself seems to be ok; it pumped lots of water before I hooked it up to the rest of system.

FYI: there is also a filter on line in pump house; I added another in case anything falls into cistern tank.

Appreciate any comments; gotta go back to work!
 
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Tim The Tool Man

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Mar 1, 2012
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Lehigh Valley, PA
You should have a pressure tank plumed into the system generally just after the pump.

I would also install a bypass around the softener for diagnostic and maintenance reasons.
 

akdiesel

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Aug 8, 2008
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Wasilla, AK
Take your faucet ends off and clean the diffuser. They get clogged with particles and scale and will reduce your pressure as well.
 
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kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
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14,065
I second the idea of a pressure tank between the tank and filter.
You are running on just the pump output.
The pressure tank will act the same as your cistern.
 

Zeke

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Aug 13, 2009
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17,176
Location
Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
There is pressure and there is volume. If the pipes are old, they may have enough scale to reduce the volume which manifests as low flow. Increasing pressure will not have a big effect on volume.
 
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moobeast2

Member
Joined
Nov 22, 2011
Messages
21
Location
Central NY
Re the pressure tank; this pump does not require a pressure tank. It kicks on as soon as it detects a drop in pressure or increase in flow.
http://www.pexuniverse.com/grundfos-mq3-35-booster-pump-96860172

I have a bypass around the new setup; when I cut the copper to splice into the main 3/4" line the inside of the pipe was totally clean. The pipes all seem standard; 3/4" main splitting down to 1/2" to all the various fixtures. Recently redid kitchen and bathroom, all the copper seemed clean inside when we did new faucets, etc.
 

Tim The Tool Man

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Mar 1, 2012
Messages
1,520
Location
Lehigh Valley, PA
I have used those pumps as well and I can tell you that they work much better and more efficiently with a pressure tank.

Regardless of that, get yourself several pressure gauges. Place one just after the pump then place one after the filter and another after the water softener. You can permanently plumb these in with a tee fitting. They cost about $5.00 each:
Ufu_QR0xlFwJ9ruYqY0zmTPvh78QU1tOVfBLheny1FrqKRcabNkGyqQn3vFMk8OsM51sMN7rLzuq_qpPwgbj5fy0PcyjDlK7hacBJp2EZeQ2cOs8ZsL1kgGPpYfoSxXV4Z6egp8L7irGr3IOTQ86Aq09xyPmd7ndXpTHj3RAtznroQ_mHfTWwGMI5u2BK8fAPMpWtd4Hr1PfzYA-Zw2mb4dl4XM=s220-c


Then with the pump running and a faucet or two open compare pressures at all three gauges. If you notice, for example, a big difference between the pump pressure and the softener then you should have the softener serviced. If however you see a nice pressure build up across the board but a drop once the faucet is turned on then you will need to add a pressure tank.


I have one other suggestion, have you tried to adjust the pressure switch in the pump itself? If I recall turning the adjustment screw clock-wise increases pressure. It is my recollection that these are factory set at 40 PSI. I'll throw it in one more time, with the addition of a pressure tank you would see instant pressure and less pump run time...
 
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