Plumbing Question - Sink flexible tailpiece

[jal395]

I'm putting in a new sink and the tailpiece doesn't line up.
I've seen the flexible tailpiece sections but was wondering if there is a better way. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

 

[The Cobbler]

the proper way would be to re align the drain pipe/trap etc. the flexible tailpieces are for DIY .
pics would help

 

[Norcal]

Those flexible tailpieces are garbage, post photos & there are many here who can offer good suggestions on how to do it right.

 

[Chuckster in NJ]

Avoid these POS flexible tail pieces because by next year you will be doing it over the "correct" way....... Nothing but problems by using these "quick fixes" that will cause problems.
Do it once...... Do it right!

 

[Kaizen]

Yup done wrong makes more issues. Use an offset or a few 45s to get where you need.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[nadogail]

The flexible tail pieces, IMHO, are not a good option.

 

[rick carpenter]

Oftentimes the waste line/drain stub is built way out with several glued pvc junctions and it is hard to connect new plumbing to it. The flexy pieces are temporary at best (I asked about them here one time) but they'll get you by til you do it right. If you don't use a flexy piece and you're off a few degrees and you try to force it you'll have a leak, because plumbing is never almost right. If you've done some cutting on the pieces and find yourself going back to the store several times to buy single replacements and it still won't fit right, throw them all away and go buy all new pieces. A kit and advice from a plumbing supply store can be very helpful. Take some time to clear your mind and re-think it through from the beginning before cutting any.

Beer helps too.

 

[Lynden]

How much out of alignment is it? Are you using PVC pipe? PVC will bend if you heat it with a heat gun. Maybe a little bend in the tailpiece is all you need to make it line up.

https://www.google.com/search?client=safari&rls=en&q=heating+pvc+pipe&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8

 

[BigGarage]

I'm putting in a new sink and the tailpiece doesn't line up.
I've seen the flexible tailpiece sections but was wondering if there is a better way. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

I used the flexible piece on my dual-basin kitchen sink 5 years ago and have never had a problem with it. Apparently nobody on this forum has much use for them.

Dennis

 

[58Yeoman]

I've helped my step son hehab some of his rental properties, and have noticed that the new sinks drains are now flat on the bottom, with no bevel. Of course, the rubber gaskets that come with the new drains all have beveled edges to fit up into the sink. If you don't get it EXACTLY right, it will leak. You would think after all this time, they would also include a flat rubber washer.

 

[rlitman]

I used the flexible piece on my dual-basin kitchen sink 5 years ago and have never had a problem with it. Apparently nobody on this forum has much use for them.

Dennis

Except that they catch debris, making clogs more likely. And it is super easy for an idiot to poke through it with a snake. We don't like them here, because they're just not the right way to do things, and there are far better options.

Still, I'm sure there are millions out there working just fine.

I've helped my step son hehab some of his rental properties, and have noticed that the new sinks drains are now flat on the bottom, with no bevel. Of course, the rubber gaskets that come with the new drains all have beveled edges to fit up into the sink. If you don't get it EXACTLY right, it will leak. You would think after all this time, they would also include a flat rubber washer.

If the gasket doesn't fit, do it old school and use plumber's putty.

 

[58Yeoman]

Hmmm...I used plumbers putty between the drain and sink, but never thought of using it below the sink to the drain. I'll have to try that next time. Thanks.

 

[rlitman]

Hmmm...I used plumbers putty between the drain and sink, but never thought of using it below the sink to the drain. I'll have to try that next time. Thanks.

No, not there! Putty is for above the sink and under the tailpiece. Or in a kitchen sink, again, above the sink and under the drain cup. In a kitchen sink, the tailpiece is held up against the drain cup, with a flat rubber gasket between.

Never use putty on any fittings that have ANY possibility of moving.

I thought you were talking about the bevel on the bottom of the bowl that meets the underside of the top of the tailpiece.

 

[BigGarage]

I used the flexible piece on my dual-basin kitchen sink 5 years ago and have never had a problem with it. Apparently nobody on this forum has much use for them.

Dennis

Except that they catch debris, making clogs more likely. And it is super easy for an idiot to poke through it with a snake. We don't like them here, because they're just not the right way to do things, and there are far better options.

Still, I'm sure there are millions out there working just fine.

Since I'm the only idiot usually here I guess I won't have to worry about running a snake through it

The one I bought is smooth on the inside so it catches no debris at all. Like I wrote, it's been there for 5 years. It was going to be temporary but it has not failed and I see no reason to change it out until it does.

Dennis

 

[Jackfre]

Cut out the back of the cabinet and the wall. Don't be to dainty with it as you need room to work. Cut the drain and vent arm, if it is coming off the top of the san tee and lay it off to the proper center. You can use no-hub connectors or no stop coupling if it is abs or pvc. Do a quick replacement of the sheetrock and get a piece of 1/4" luan ply to repair the cabinet back.

 

[jal395]

Thanks for the advice so far. At this point it's not far off so I'm going to buy a straight tailpiece extension and try heat to put a little angle in it. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[snyder]

There are rubber traps similar to a fernco coupler.
They seem to work really well. Imo

 

[LeonardY]

They sell 22.5 degree and 45 degree elbows. I needed one to get close close to one sink and the other for another sink. You just need to get close and then you can use the plastic drain fittings to align the rest.

 

[ripperd]

I used one in the main shower at our old house. It was that way for probably 2-3 years and I never had a clog. I had access from the basement utility area (barely, very uncomfortable work angles!), so if I ever had a problem with it, I could get in and replace it. Never had a problem.

If there is access to replace it in the future, might as well use it and prolong the work and maybe it will work forever. If there is no access to replace later, then don't install it.

 

[3onthetree]

I'm not a plumber, but there is that code thing stating:

"Drainage fittings shall have a smooth interior waterway of the same diameter as the piping served. Fittings shall conform to the type of pipe used. Drainage fittings shall not have ledges, shoulders or reductions that can retard or obstruct drainage flow in the piping."

 

[Balvar24]

I've used a heat gun to get 1/2" or so. Just be careful. Too much heat and it's over.

 

[jrsulo]

I'm not a plumber, but there is that code thing stating:

"Drainage fittings shall have a smooth interior waterway of the same diameter as the piping served. Fittings shall conform to the type of pipe used. Drainage fittings shall not have ledges, shoulders or reductions that can retard or obstruct drainage flow in the piping."

 

[The Cobbler]

heating and bending the drain pipes is as bad as using a flexible connector, maybe even worse IMO

 

[ripperd]

heating and bending the drain pipes is as bad as using a flexible connector, maybe even worse IMO

Why?

 

[scdealer]

Just redid a 1/2 bath w/the flex pipe during lockdown. Needed an inch over and an inch out. Would have repiped if doing a full bath or kitchen due to clogging worries, but only hand washing goes on in 1/2 bath.

 

[The Cobbler]

Why?

heating drainage pipes that weren't designed for that purpose is worse than using a flexible coupling made for that purpose,and more "Mickey Mouse" IMO

 

[rlitman]

heating drainage pipes that weren't designed for that purpose is worse than using a flexible coupling made for that purpose,and more "Mickey Mouse" IMO

I don't get it. PVC pipe ARE designed to be heat bent, and bending pipes is common practice. They are also rated to be heat belled. Not that I would suggest either for this use.

 

[Balvar24]

heating and bending the drain pipes is as bad as using a flexible connector, maybe even worse IMO

It can be if you'r not careful.

 

[p_mori7]

I don't get it ?

Sink drains are made to be positioned in 3 axis.

You match the height of the drain stub by adjusting the ABS drain to the tail piece vertically and tightening the collar.

You match the output of the P-Trap to the drain stub by rotating the 2 P-Trap sections & it's short horizontal run CW or CCW as needed to get it to line up with the drain stub.

I've never had a problem getting hard parts to line up perfectly ?

If the stub is further away than what the adjustability of the P-Trap sections allow, i would just put a 45* in the horizontal exit of the P-Trap ?

Not my work below, but you get the idea.

The white horizontal piece could have been sectioned shorter for a cleaner install in this pic (or just go to hardware store and buy a shorter one (looks like it has threads on the end).

 

[The Cobbler]

there is no way that a heated & bent drain pipe would pass a plumbing inspection around here.
As previous poster said, it's not rocket science to get things lined up with the proper fittings

 

[mcbane]

I'm not a plumber, but there is that code thing stating:

"Drainage fittings shall have a smooth interior waterway of the same diameter as the piping served. Fittings shall conform to the type of pipe used. Drainage fittings shall not have ledges, shoulders or reductions that can retard or obstruct drainage flow in the piping."

That might explain why at least some of the flexible parts have a smooth bore.

 

[Glemon]

I don't get it ?

Sink drains are made to be positioned in 3 axis.

You match the height of the drain stub by adjusting the ABS drain to the tail piece vertically and tightening the collar.

You match the output of the P-Trap to the drain stub by rotating the 2 P-Trap sections & it's short horizontal run CW or CCW as needed to get it to line up with the drain stub.

I've never had a problem getting hard parts to line up perfectly ?

If the stub is further away than what the adjustability of the P-Trap sections allow, i would just put a 45* in the horizontal exit of the P-Trap ?

Not my work below, but you get the idea.

The white horizontal piece could have been sectioned shorter for a cleaner install in this pic (or just go to hardware store and buy a shorter one (looks like it has threads on the end).

That was my thought as well, I have had many situations where the tail piece doesn't line up. P-trap fittings give a lot of flexibility in lining up and combine it with an angled PVC piece if absolutely needed and you can usually figure it out. A picture would be helpful in this case.

 

[mike93lx]

I don't get it. PVC pipe ARE designed to be heat bent, and bending pipes is common practice. They are also rated to be heat belled. Not that I would suggest either for this use.

Many sink drains aren't pvc though. They are polypropylene. And drain kits, even in pvc, are very thin walled. I bet if you asked most people to heat them up for a bend, they will just melt through with a torch or even a heat gun

 

[Norcal]

Many sink drains aren't pvc though. They are polypropylene. And drain kits, even in pvc, are very thin walled. I bet if you asked most people to heat them up for a bend, they will just melt through with a torch or even a heat gun

This, do it right or not at all.

 

[BigGarage]

It’s hard to tell if I can’t see the situation. Why don’t you upload the photo?. However, there’s a thing you can tell without looking; if you don’t feel like you know for sure, better ask for professional help

Another reply to a year old thread and everyone acts like it's legit.

Dennis

 

[mike93lx]

Another reply to a year old thread and everyone acts like it's legit.

Dennis

No one responded to that guy though

 

[jar944]

Beyond the 2 year old thread.

Why would anyone need a flexible drain, unless you don't know what you are doing.

Seriously show me a pic where bending or general hackery was required because std off pvc fittings wouldn't work.

 

[pizza]

Another reply to a year old thread and everyone acts like it's legit.

Dennis

another reply to a two-year-old question that was posted without any pictures

typical GJ lol

 

[NUTTSGT]

Another banned spammer.

I've also closed this thread. If need be, the OP can PM to have it opened but no more spammers to revive it.