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Plumbing question

threeputt

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I am not sure which section this plumbing questions needs to be but here goes anyway. I am trying to help my son who lives about 25 miles from me. I need a P-Trap for this double kitchen sink to replace this mess that is leaking.. Any suggestions on what I need to pick up before I head to his place this week. We have a Home Depot close to where I live and one more place that sells plumbing supplies. Thanks for any tips.
 

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Jim greengo

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Sep 3, 2018
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I am not sure which section this plumbing questions needs to be but here goes anyway. I am trying to help my son who lives about 25 miles from me. I need a P-Trap for this double kitchen sink to replace this mess that is leaking.. Any suggestions on what I need to pick up before I head to his place this week. We have a Home Depot close to where I live and one more place that sells plumbing supplies. Thanks for any tips.
Pick up a double bowl sink install kit from a box store.
I'm not sure why they extended the trap so low.
Extend the aav/trailer vent up as high as you can get it behind sink.
 

dogdog

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Nov 15, 2011
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12,711
homedepot or Lowes sells Pvc p-traps or brass ones in my neck of the wood. buy extra washers for those things... and some plumber's putting. and some plumbing tape. The rest is pretty much U do U and make it look good and logical...

if that is kitchen it's normally 1 - 1/2 or 1.5" size... if it is bathroom it's almost always 1.25 or 1 - 1/4. ...
 

flip-eye

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Sep 28, 2015
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Pick up a double bowl sink install kit from a box store.
I'm not sure why they extended the trap so low.
Extend the aav/trailer vent up as high as you can get it behind sink.
Is that a rule of thumb? AAV must be higher than drain of sink it's venting?
 

Jim greengo

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Is that a rule of thumb? AAV must be higher than drain of sink it's venting?
Yes,it normally needs to be above flood level of fixture to pass inspection.
The rubber seal inside could fail and allow water to leak otherwise in a worst case scenario.
But things cant always be perfect in the real world,that's why I say to put it as high as possible.
 

PoorUB

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Mar 29, 2021
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Fargo, ND
What a mess!
Yes, shorten the tail pieces from the bottom of the sinks to raise the trap higher. The basic concept is correct, but the height is all wrong! Don't use that slinky trap, they just collect **** and plug up.

Loop the washer drain hose up as high as he can, like a reverse trap. up to the underside of the counter top.

And yes the air vent needs to be as high as it can, right up to the underside of the counter top.

Really, he doesn't need much, just reuse what it there, buy some sealing washers. The drain from the sinks is ok, but should go higher. Everything between the sink up to the slinky trap is ok, just shorten the tail pieces a bit, maybe 2" and raise it up. He will need a new trap and a couple fittings to get it too the drain.
 

housewolf

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Feb 3, 2021
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East Texas
I would try and get by with just installing a p-trap. The two vertical pieces in/out on the trap are too long, creating a ~12”(?) trap seal. Besides leaking, it can’t be draining very well and is likely holding some solids. The outlet side of the trap should have an ell directly on it. You should tie that dishwasher drain up as high as you can get it under the counter, creating a “trap”. You can raise that auto vent up but I doubt it will have any noticeable effect. Those things are next to useless anyway.

I’d take a pic of my own, but I have a single compartment sink in my kitchen. This is about as close as I could find to what you should do. Maybe put a little pipe dope on those slip joint threads, but not too much and don’t overtighten them. They can’t stand much torque. If I were to tear everything out and start from scratch, I’d use chrome plated brass or SCH 40 PVC. That tubular size plastic is pretty Mickey Mouse IME
F634A254-8213-4903-BE89-DFADE051BFCF.jpeg
 

PoorUB

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We only use 17g stuff on commercial jobs here in omaha area anyway.
Waste of materials and money on a residential job imho if not required.
A typical homeowner would run to Home Depot or Lowes and buy what they had, which would be the cheapest **** brass available. Probably would last 5 years.
 
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dogdog

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A typical homeowner would run to Home Depot or Lowes and buy what they had, which would be the cheapest **** brass available. Probably would last 5 years.
Not sure about pvc ones, but the brass ones from HD is actually pretty thick at 17ga which compare to most plumbing places or Lowe’s the standard one of 20ga. Of cause they also sells thinner ones at cheaper price.

I recently bought 2 90deg and a sink connector piece and it cost almost $50…. So…. Didn’t install yet will post pic when I find it.
 

PoorUB

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Last time I used a brass drain it lasted maybe three years. I swore them off at that time. Twenty plus years ago we did a minor kitchen remodel. That same PVC plumbing is under the sink.
 

BigGarage

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Jun 5, 2019
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Location
Just south of Detroit, MI.
Get rid of those corrugated expansion pieces...
I used one of those flexible drain pieces in 2015 for my dual basin kitchen sink. I was doing much work to move in here and didn't want to take the time to use/fit PVC pipe. I had to replace it today. It was $11 at Ace and took 10 minutes to change out. I guess I'll never put a solid pipe under there when it's so easy not to.

Dennis
 

mike93lx

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Dec 9, 2013
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Richmond, VA
I like the Keeney heavy duty trap kits with rubber washers. The tubing is thicker and the rubber washers seal better than the plastic ones.

Make it really tight. Then run a lot of hot water through it, then retighten.
 
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