Plumbing - tool exist? Name?

[n8n]

Have a feeling this may be relevant soon... just spotted a leaking, abandoned valve and I can see why the plumber didn't cut it out.

Is there a tool that will ream out the old solder from the inside of a copper sweat fitting after removing the pipe that went inside it so that the fitting can be reused? This would really, really make my life easier as I can't see any other way of accomplishing this repair - the valve is up against an elbow on one end (OK, that one I could just get a new elbow and sand down the pipe that goes into it) and the other is right up against a tee (which would be a huge, massive, major project to cut out and replace.)

Just would like to cut out the valve, pull the stubs of pipe out (really they're essentially *******) and sweat in a ~4" section of straight 1/2" copper.

Immediate application would be 1/2" copper but I can see a potential need for 3/4" as well.

Thanks!

 

[bonneyman]

I've seen a tool to "ream" out PVC fittings so that they can be re-used. Which is kinda ridiculous, as PVC fittings are so cheap. You'd think a similar - albeit beefier - tool would be available for doing what your asking.

For my plumbing tool needs, I go to PASCO.

http://www.pascospecialty.com/products.php

 

[theoldwizard1]

Is there a tool that will ream out the old solder from the inside of a copper sweat fitting after removing the pipe that went inside it so that the fitting can be reused?

Clean the inside and outside of the fitting. Heat until the solder flows, Insert new pipe (properly cleaned and fluxed) while the solder is still melted.

The joint you have now is NOT water tight ! Wait for the whole thing to cool (damp rags). Now reheat the fitting AND the inserted pipe together and solder as you would normally.

 

[n8n]

Clean the inside and outside of the fitting. Heat until the solder flows, Insert new pipe (properly cleaned and fluxed) while the solder is still melted.

The joint you have now is NOT water tight ! Wait for the whole thing to cool (damp rags). Now reheat the fitting AND the inserted pipe together and solder as you would normally.

Didn't think of that, that might work. Thanks! I figured there had to be some way of dealing with a situation where everything was so tight that sliding couplers just wouldn't work, but it just wasn't coming to me (as I seem to do plumbing about once every couple years or so.)

 

[maintguy]

Why not just cut the pipe and use shark bites? Not the most professional way,but will get the job done

 

[n8n]

If I cut on either side of the valve, there's not enough pipe left for even a sweat coupling. See how close it is to the tee? which I really don't want to mess with cutting it back until I *can* use a sliding coupling and then rebuilding it all if I don't have to. Easier to just cut it out, grab the stub with channellocks, heat, pull out of tee *if* I can get a new pipe in there.

 

[CNGsaves]

Have a feeling this may be relevant soon... just spotted a leaking, abandoned valve and I can see why the plumber didn't cut it out.

Is there a tool that will ream out the old solder from the inside of a copper sweat fitting after removing the pipe that went inside it so that the fitting can be reused? This would really, really make my life easier as I can't see any other way of accomplishing this repair - the valve is up against an elbow on one end (OK, that one I could just get a new elbow and sand down the pipe that goes into it) and the other is right up against a tee (which would be a huge, massive, major project to cut out and replace.)

Just would like to cut out the valve, pull the stubs of pipe out (really they're essentially *******) and sweat in a ~4" section of straight 1/2" copper.

Immediate application would be 1/2" copper but I can see a potential need for 3/4" as well.

Tell us more WHY there would be an abandoned valve?? Where was this located?? What does it go to??

With picture, the plumbing guru's will give you play-by-play specifics on how to fix. Copper is easy to fix as long as some flex in pipe to re-insert the new pieces (or use a repair coupling that has no collar/lip so it slides past the opening). Also, you want pipe dry (empty of water) so your solder job will work.

 

[Kracin]

i guess you are saying you want to just eliminate the valve???

if you do just throw a coupling in there if you can't move the pipes at all....

if you can move the pipes, then just sweat the old pieces out , clean em up and be done. with it.


if you CAN'T move the old pipes at all to get a straight section in, then just sweath a coupling in. if this is still difficult, try leaving 1/8" inch or so on either side of the pipes so you have a little bit of play to work with not a lot though, a little bit in the 4 sections of sweat will give you enough to put all 4 sections in spaced evenly. but most copper pipe setups you can at least get enough give to put new pieces in no problem.

 

[n8n]

Tell us more WHY there would be an abandoned valve?? Where was this located?? What does it go to??

With picture, the plumbing guru's will give you play-by-play specifics on how to fix. Copper is easy to fix as long as some flex in pipe to re-insert the new pieces (or use a repair coupling that has no collar/lip so it slides past the opening). Also, you want pipe dry (empty of water) so your solder job will work.

See my last post, I was posting a pic probably as you were typing. This is above the WH, on the cold side. I believe that the water comes in from the street then to the WH (which is the 3/4" you see on one side of the valve) then tees off to go...? Either kitchen, upstairs bathrooms, or back of house outside spigot, not sure which line that is. The valve probably stopped functioning and the new looking ball valve that you can see in the pic performs the same function. I was doing another repair in that room while someone else was taking a shower, the valve apparently only leaks while the water is running (?) which is why it wasn't noticed before. I ASSume that this means that it serves the upstairs bathrooms at least but can't 100% confirm that (I could test, and probably will out of curiosity.)

 

[Tronyadorable]

Screw a kit in in it and leave it ?

 

[Bondo]

Ayuh,.... Hacksaw it off at the left edge of the valve(in yer picture),....

Heat the valve, 'n pull it off the T fittin',...

With a short ******, 'n 2 couplers, you can sweat it back together,...

Toss the old valve in the scrap bucket,...

 

[Zeke]

Clean the inside and outside of the fitting. Heat until the solder flows, Insert new pipe (properly cleaned and fluxed) while the solder is still melted.

The joint you have now is NOT water tight ! Wait for the whole thing to cool (damp rags). Now reheat the fitting AND the inserted pipe together and solder as you would normally.

Best answer. I do an extra step. I take a cleaning inside wire bush with flux on it and run it in while the solder is flowing, pull it out and try the new pipe that also has been cleaned and fluxed. If a little more heat is needed, I apply until the new pipe slides in. It may or may not be watertight but the cooling and a quick re sweat won't hurt. Protect the T from overheating with wet rags.

 

[404]

I do this a lot, and it is not hard. Get a coupling without a stop in it.

http://www.nibco.com/Fittings/Metal...ittings/601-Coupling-without-Stop-C-x-C-Wrot/

Cut out the valve, leave as much copper stub out of the el and tee as you can.

Heat the joint to remove the stub. The stub will be stuck so one must tap it with a tiny hammer side to side till it comes loose.

Remove stub with pliers like these from HF.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece-long-reach-hose-grip-pliers-37909.html

Use the pliers to grab inside and outside the stub diameter (just grip the thin wall of the stub) to avoid turning the stub into an egg and getting it stuck.

Remove both stubs, cut 2 lengths of pipe to fill space. I like to tin the stub ends and add more flux to stub and old fitting, heat fitting install one stub with pliers. Put no stop coupling over stub that is installed, use some violence to put in second stub, put no stop coupling over joint between 2 stubs, solder it allup.

If you really cannot use violence to install second new stub, do this in 3 lengths of new stub and 2 no stop couplings.

 

[n8n]

Thanks for all the replies guys, I think I can do this without even the repair coupling now that I've got some tips. Now it is just down to getting the go ahead to proceed or does the homeowner want a "real" plumber to do it or just let me have at it (I'd do it for materials, but some people just don't trust that some things actually can be done yourself.)

Now that I've thought about it I would just get a section of straight 1/2" Type L and a 1/2" 90. I'd cut one side of the valve to allow the pipes to move WRT each other. Then I'd heat and pull off the old 90 and the valve/stub out of the tee. Then sand down the vertical pipe that I pulled the 90 off of, and follow the advice given above about heating the tee and pushing the new fluxed pipe into it, then use a new 90 just to make life easier. I think there'll be enough flex to move the vertical bit enough to get it into the tee. Any problems with that plan? If that doesn't work I could certainly use a sliding coupler and install the straight piece of pipe in two sections.

Thanks for the advice guys, I was thinking of mechanical means to get the pipes to fit together, but if fluxing and pushing it in while heated works, I'm happy to give that a shot!

 

[theoldwizard1]

WOW are you in to "make work" ?

That looks like a good quality valve. I am betting you can "rebuild" it and it won't leak. The whole stem assembly will come out if you unscrew it at the larger nut. Then you can take it apart.

I am betting you only need new "packing". A good, "old fashioned" hardware store would have the parts for a couple of dollars. Replace all of the washer while you are there.



If you really want to eliminate that valve, I'll bet you will NOT be able to push the pipes apart far enough to insert a proper length of pipe. The typical solution would be a union with 2 *******.

 

[mozda]

I'm a plumber.
Is it just the valve spindle that's leaking? Or the soldered joints?

If it's just the valve, I would just service the valve.

If it's the soldered joints I would cut the pipe work in a couple of spots and for some unions so you can remove that section of pipe in case of any future leaks or service requirements.

If you are going to soft solder it. Make sure you clean both new and old joints with steel wool, use a thin film of flux on both male and female parts of the fitting to be soldered. And lastly, don't overheat the joint. Apply heat to the brass section of the joint first, when flux begins to turn brown, touch the copper with solder and see if it melts.
If it does melt, check if it gets drawn into the fitting.
Soft solder isnt like other forms of welding where you feed the filler rod/solder with the flame behind it. You need to use the heat in the fitting to melt the solder and let the capillary attraction absorb the solder.


I make a decent living out of repairing what handymen "fixed".
Soft solder is one of those things that you either got it, or you don't.

 

[MikeF2316]

Clean the inside and outside of the fitting. Heat until the solder flows, Insert new pipe (properly cleaned and fluxed) while the solder is still melted.

The joint you have now is NOT water tight ! Wait for the whole thing to cool (damp rags). Now reheat the fitting AND the inserted pipe together and solder as you would normally.

I do this all the time. I keep all my old pieces of pipe with fittings still on them. When I'm making a plumbing change, it's often all I have available.

 

[gball]

not sure i'm reading the issue right but... you just want to unsweat some fittings? you do it the same way as putting it together. heat up joint till you can pull the fittings apart. will probably have to use MAPP gas. old joints seem to need more heat to get apart in my experience. use some channel lock or something to hold stuff. maybe have a pan of water nearby for cooling hot stuff off... once fittings are apart, reheat and use a wire brush sized to the pipe to clean out as much solder as you can. then just clean everything and assemble as new. i do irrigation too and regularly have to cut and tie in to old existing plumbing.

 

[BD1]

The slider coupling is called a , NO STOP COUPLING. You can make one with a standard coupling by filing / sanding the stop out. The STOP could be two dimples or a full ring inside.

 

[Gmonkee]

Valves are installed for a reason. Someone made extra effort and spent more to have a valve to protect something in that system.
Find out that reason if possible before making it triple the work.

lt would be easier to repack the valve. I do it myself to save costs of buying lesser quality new parts.

 

[n8n]

Valves are installed for a reason. Someone made extra effort and spent more to have a valve to protect something in that system.
Find out that reason if possible before making it triple the work.

lt would be easier to repack the valve. I do it myself to save costs of buying lesser quality new parts.

There is a ball valve literally inches downstream, this old valve is redundant and there is no reason for it to remain.

Last time I tried to repack/repair an old valve, it cracked trying to take it apart... water around here isn't kind to them. I'm now in the 'just replace it with a ball valve' camp.

Sent from my XT897 using Tapatalk

 

[theoldwizard1]

I'm a plumber.
Is it just the valve spindle that's leaking? Or the soldered joints?

If it's just the valve, I would just service the valve.

+1 !