plumbing valve question

[Cobra6]

I have to replace an outlet valve - can someone look at this and tell me how it comes loose?
Is it just a multi-turn valve with a compression connection? (no sweating)

Thanks

 

[210Hardtop]

looks like a 1/2" compression fitting to me.

 

[Zeke]

10-4 on that. There are 2 ways to replace that. One, leave the ferrule and nut on the copper and install the new valve. If that leaks you will have to cut below where the ferrule is.

 

[Cobra6]

10-4 on that. There are 2 ways to replace that. One, leave the ferrule and nut on the copper and install the new valve. If that leaks you will have to cut below where the ferrule is.

That is what I thought - thanks - I will get a new valve and try to use it on the fitting - at least it is not too hard to cut if it leaks.

 

[rlitman]

Yeah, the easiest way is to treat it like a flare, and leave the nut and olive in place and put a new valve on. Yes, a little dope won't hurt, although I'd just use a touch of silicone grease on the olive and threads.

But if it were my house, I'd cut the pipe end off, sweat on two male threaded ends (one for each valve), and screw on new quarter turn ceramic seated valves.
I passionately hate compression fittings as much as I hate packing peanuts (the latter is of course my true arch nemesis).

 

[porschedude996TT]

Make sure you buy the same brand, some have a different thread count.

 

[ratdoggy]

Yeah, the easiest way is to treat it like a flare, and leave the nut and olive in place and put a new valve on. Yes, a little dope won't hurt, although I'd just use a touch of silicone grease on the olive and threads.

But if it were my house, I'd cut the pipe end off, sweat on two male threaded ends (one for each valve), and screw on new quarter turn ceramic seated valves.
I passionately hate compression fittings as much as I hate packing peanuts (the latter is of course my true arch nemesis).

I'd put 1/4 turn valves in there too.

 

[MrMark]

I always pull the old ferrule. You are just asking for trouble reusing the old one. There are pullers for the job and they work very well. It is an essential tool for the plumber.

 

[G_P]

Actually that's a 5/8" compression fitting. Compression goes by the pipe/tubings outside diameter.

Also can't quote in this thread. I just get a message saying "invalid thread ID"????

Sent via carrier pigeon.

 

[rodm1]

I'd put 1/4 turn valves in there too.

Highly recommended! I would remove the old ferrule. Try turning it 1/4 turn then rock it back and forth while pulling on it or cut it off.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCra...raight-Valve-G2CR14-C1/202026870#.Uhfe6naGFvI

puller
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00065DH2W/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[38 Dodge Coupe]

Don't forget to turn off the water supply ahead of this valve. ( ask me how I know to do this!)

 

[foxhound]

You can fix the valve without removing the body from the pipe. First loosen the packing nut which holds the handle and stem in place(not the handle which is usually held in by a Phillips screw). Once the packing nut is unthreaded turn the handle to the left until it comes out. You should now see the packing washer which is about 3/4 in diameter and on the end of the stem you will probably see nothing but a metal nub. Buy a new valve. Take apart the same way, you will see a rubber washer approximately 1/2 inch
On the metal nub. You can either take that one off and put it on the old stem or see if the new stem will fit in the valve.

Most times the new stem will fit but it looks like yours is plastic. When you put the packing nut back on do so hand tight + 1/4 turn with pliers. If the packing still leaks give it a bit more but excessive tightening will only make the handle hard to open and close.

 

[Falcon67]

Don't forget to turn off the water supply ahead of this valve. ( ask me how I know to do this!)

Now you've spoiled the fun

I've had this go both ways. I usually try the easy way first, then if that fails remove the ferrule and go with a new assembly.

 

[Cobra6]

Don't forget to turn off the water supply ahead of this valve. ( ask me how I know to do this!)

good point - you can't forget the simple stuff.

 

[flat350]

Buy a Brasscraft or Eastman stop,stay away from the cheap junk valves.You can pull the old nut and comp. ring or cut it below.Instructions with the valve will say not to use pipe dope on it,99% of your plumbers will still put a small amount on it when they install one,I do and have never had a problem or failure after installing 1000's of them with pipe dope.I'd still install the multi turn valve,there were some issues with the valve stems failing on some installs,the stems were being eroded by the water makeup or the velocity(old on left,new on right)

 

[G_P]

You can fix the valve without removing the body from the pipe. First loosen the packing nut which holds the handle and stem in place(not the handle which is usually held in by a Phillips screw). Once the packing nut is unthreaded turn the handle to the left until it comes out. You should now see the packing washer which is about 3/4 in diameter and on the end of the stem you will probably see nothing but a metal nub. Buy a new valve. Take apart the same way, you will see a rubber washer approximately 1/2 inch
On the metal nub. You can either take that one off and put it on the old stem or see if the new stem will fit in the valve.

Most times the new stem will fit but it looks like yours is plastic. When you put the packing nut back on do so hand tight + 1/4 turn with pliers. If the packing still leaks give it a bit more but excessive tightening will only make the handle hard to open and close.

Home Depot sells rebuild kits for Brasscraft valves. Better off swapping it for a quarter turn ball valve though.

Sent via carrier pigeon.

 

[theoldwizard1]

You can fix the valve without removing the body from the pipe. First loosen the packing nut which holds the handle and stem in place(not the handle which is usually held in by a Phillips screw). Once the packing nut is unthreaded turn the handle to the left until it comes out. You should now see the packing washer which is about 3/4 in diameter and on the end of the stem ...

That sounds like the actual faucet washer.

That looks like an old Brasscraft and I have always had problems with the leaking when you are trying to turn them off. I have discovered a simple solutions.

Loosen the packing nut. Remove the handle. The packing washer is a thick rubber washer just under the packing nut. Remove and inspect it. If if looks good, apply some Vasoline to both side and the hole in the center. Re-install, bur upside down from the way you removed it. The rubber washer takes a set and inverting it forces the rubber to change its "set".

If this does not work, try foxhounds solution next before replacing the valve.

If you do need to replace it, 1/4 turn valves are the only way to go !

 

[rlitman]

Never use Vaseline or petroleum based lubricants on rubber. It breaks it down over time.
O-ring lubricant is generally pure silicone based, because it does not degrade rubber.

 

[59 wagon man]

easiest thing is cut below the tee and get a 5/8" x 3/8" x 3/8" single inlet dual outlet valve. one connection with 2 separate valves made in one body

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I usually put a thin film of pipe dope on the old ferrule so that if there is any irregularity it has a better chance of sealing. I almost never have to replace the old nut and ferrule doing that way.

I put a wrap of Teflon pipe tape around the compression ring on one to stop a seep, worked great.

Commode water supply, had a rock in the line and needed to get it out.

Charles

 

[Cobra6]

I found the brasscraft parts at Home Depot and took care of this - actually had to fix two of them.

Thanks for the help

 

[Norcal]

If you do not have a ferrule removal tool, just cut the tubing just below it the flex supply should be replaced as well, but even a new one is not a cure, had one blow a few days after it was installed & 150* degree water spraying around is no fun.

*Commercial kitchen.