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Plumbing .. What would you use ?

DCarr

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I am going to run my water line from the meter to my Shop ( seperate for house ). I will be renting a trencher that digs 24" deep so I expect the line will be 20" - 24" deep .. I believe code here is 12" ( maybe 18" ) .....

The line will be run under my driveway which I am having paved in April. I am leary of plastic pipe due the possibility of it breaking ( my own paranoia ) people here at work are sayong schedule 40 PVC will be just fine and wont be an issue at all. I have always done everything over kill.

After the material selection is made .. what diameter pipe is recomended ? I am considering 1" ... I'm being told either 3/4" or 1" will work fine.

The distance I am going is approx. 100' + -. Where it comes out of the ground at the shop I am definetly going with metal pipe securly attached to the shop since it is in the area where I park my open car trailer that everyone borrows.

Whats the GJ opinions ?

Suggestions, pro's / cons ?

TIA
 
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Steves32

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Since I'm a Plumbing & HVAC business owner-

Copper. No PVC period. Especially under a driveway.
As for size- I need a list of fixtures it feeds, including hose bibs & pressure at meter.
 

Sterff

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I would use K Copper tubing and wrap with insulation for protection.
 

akdiesel

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Even if you go copper I would sleeve it with galvanized pipe to protect it from the vehicle weight. I was told the same is for electrical. Code in my area calls for galvanized conduit under the drive way and then you can go direct burial.
 

BBQ&Love

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The size depends on the distance you are running, the elevations involved, the fixture units at the garage, the pressure, and the type of pipe used.

K Copper is often a good choice. Use heavy Mueller type flare fittings. Some water and soil is bad for copper so keep that in mind.

What kind of soil do you have?

Schedule 80 PVC may be a good option. You could consider a high quality PEX wrapped in 3/8" wall foam pipe insulation for protection.
 

1320stang

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Where your drive is, run it thru a larger piece of PVC as a sleeve, then mark the edges of your drive when you install it to always know where it's at. Make it large enough to shove something else thru it, like sprinkler lines or some electrical conduit for low voltage lighting. Sch. 40 will be fine 2 foot down. As far as running copper, meh.... I've got 3/4" pvc running to my house, been fine for 15 years except where I drove a stake into it, a little digging and fixing and it's good as new. At least now I know where it's at, and at least I didn't drive the stake into the underground 200amp service to the house.....
 

scott37300

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Do you have a pretty straight run? If so I might look into running 4" PVC and then using PEX waterline threw the PVC. You ever have any problems in the future you just pull a new PEX line threw the 4" PVC. Not sure if it's up to code or not but seems like that might be a good idea.
 

BADSIX

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i would check the pex tubing and see if it can be put in the ground. don't use sch 40 pvc maybe sch 80. 100 ft. of 1" copper tube is going to make you cry.
 

sbarshie

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Why not just use 1" black waterline, the coil stuff sold at every home store? That's what I have, it's dirt cheap doesn't split and with 50psi in it, is almost impossible to crush.
I can't imagine using copper the whole way especially with rocks, roots and what not trying to break it.
Just my thoughts the black plastic works easy and great.
 

Charles (in GA)

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1" Sch 40 PVC in 20 ft sections with bellmouths. Its easy to glue, pressure test it before you roll it in the trench. I put the pipe in the trench, a little dirt, walk the trench to pack it, some more dirt, walk it again, and keep doing it till its about 6" from full, at which time I start driving the trench with the front tire of a tractor or car. When I'm done, it won't settle and you will never be able to see where it was trenched. Never had a problem with the pipe either.

Charles
 

BBQ&Love

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Why not just use 1" black waterline, the coil stuff sold at every home store? That's what I have, it's dirt cheap doesn't split and with 50psi in it, is almost impossible to crush.
I can't imagine using copper the whole way especially with rocks, roots and what not trying to break it.
Just my thoughts the black plastic works easy and great.

The lighter weight black poly pipe will give lots of problems. But even the heavier stuff is asking for trouble if it's in soil with sharp rocks.
 

59 wagon man

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i have used both pvc and copper both will work well if installed in a nice bed of sand. after you use the trencher lay a bed of sand and then either 1" "k" copper or pvc will work fine. depending on your soil and water either could be good for 25+ yrs. in florida we would sleeve the copper with 1-1/2" black poly pipe like you run for sprinklers. this will protect the copper very well especially if backfilled with sand. flood the trench with water as you backfill and it will help to compact the soil . under the driveway you could sleeve it if you like with either 3" or 4" pvc with a cap on each end to help keep out the dirt would be a good sleeve if buried beneath 12" of fill
 

BBQ&Love

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copper.... it works for your house..... 24" I hope you live in the south. water line under a driveway in minnesota at least 6'
Daye

Feller flew me in to Alaska to do his plumbing. 12' through the yard and 15 under the driveway. Large excavator instead of backhoe.
 

JSBriggs

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I would get 4" PVC to use as a sleive under your driveway. Its $20 in insurance in case you ever need to replace the line in the future.

-Jeff
 
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DCarr

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.. I believe code here is 12" ( maybe 18" ) .....Where is HERE?

Maury Co. Columbia, TN.

I was informed by someone who is northme in TN, that their code was 18".

I know my water meters both at the house and at the shop arent but 12" below ground.
 
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DCarr

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Do you have a pretty straight run? If so I might look into running 4" PVC and then using PEX waterline threw the PVC. You ever have any problems in the future you just pull a new PEX line threw the 4" PVC. Not sure if it's up to code or not but seems like that might be a good idea.



A very straight run of about 98', slight turn from the meter is about it.
 

Kevin54

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Don't use copper or PVC. Get a 100' Roll of black plastic waterline that is made just for that. Running water underground. The box stores carry it along with the farm stores. Heavy wall. Any well system runs the same stuff. With copper or PVC that has joints, you stand to have a failure somewhere. You want one continuous run uninterrupted.
 

holdover

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I live on a farm in rural VA. 35 yrs ago I built my house, the well is 500' away from the house. I rented a ditch witch and did a 4" trench 36" deep. Laid 160LB test plastic water pipe in trench, the pipe came in 300' lengths. I looked at the trench before placing the pipe and placed soil over any rocks that were visible, placed the pipe and placed more soil by shovel over the pipe before back filling trench. Made sure there were no big rocks in backfill. Under the farm road I placed pipe inside 3" plastic heavy wall plastic pipe, same under driveway at the same level,36". I did the same to the barns, outbuildings and 3 yrs ago to new garage. Dumptrucks, trailers with dozers and all manner of heavy eguipment including loaded logging trucks have driven across those roads, without ever having a problem or leak. I personally would not spend the money on copper. A guess would be that I have 1500' feet of 160 Lb test 1" pipe in the ground, and no problems.

I noted a few negative comments about the black plastic pipe is only suitable for sprinklers, not sure where that comes from or what type of pipe they are talking about, here in SW VA most the well pipe going to a submersible pump is 160LB test black plastic that comes in rolls. The wall thickness of 1" pipe is about 1/8" I am not sure what the schedule # is. Again after 35 yrs experience with this stuff, I wouldn't use anything else. also when it goes to an outbuilding without heat, I use one of those ground hydrants so there is no freeze up problems.
 
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sberry

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I would use 1 inch rolled plastic if it isn't going to freeze. Cheap, lasts a long time. Have several hundred feet and never had an issue. Fed my house 1 inch at 250 ft, works well, my other buildings have steel, great in severe cold as they can be thawed, rolled copper is good too but pricey these days.
 

csp

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Don't use copper or PVC. Get a 100' Roll of black plastic waterline that is made just for that. Running water underground.

Here's your answer. It's the right stuff for the job. This is what runs from our well to our house (though ours is blue and transitions to copper near the house). The cheap black stuff is for sprinklers, regardless of what PSI it's rated at.

I can understand the suggestions of PVC for a conduit under the paved drive, but 4"? Really? Seems a bit big IMO. I wouldn't go bigger than 2" or 2.5".
 

dirttracker18

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Same around here. We run the risk of freezing so all lines are deep but everyone with a well has that black plastic stuff. Only people on municipal water have cooper and they need to change it out now in most areas of the city.

I also like the idea of burrying a pipe to run the water line through. Should the unexpected happen you can just open up to the driveway, pull out damaged part and pull through new stuff. Cheap insurance. If you never use it, it is a waste. If you do use it, it will be the best thing you ever did :)
 

JSBriggs

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Here's your answer. It's the right stuff for the job. This is what runs from our well to our house (though ours is blue and transitions to copper near the house). The cheap black stuff is for sprinklers, regardless of what PSI it's rated at.

I can understand the suggestions of PVC for a conduit under the paved drive, but 4"? Really? Seems a bit big IMO. I wouldn't go bigger than 2" or 2.5".

4" allows for unforeseen things in the future. IE: a second line, sprinklers, low voltage wiring etc. Even if you don't use it for anything else, or never have problems, its cheap insurance.

-Jeff
 

NUTTSGT

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Must be on YB .. Thank You !!!!

Yessir, you're welcome.


If I was going to run it in something, I would use some 4" field tile. It's cheap and can be bought in 100" rolls too. If you do run it in the field tile, duct tape a plastic pop/soda/water bottle over the end. This will allow it to run over and past the corrugations in the tile.

Also tape a small rope to the end too, leaving some slack at both ends. If you decide to pull something else through, like phone or cable, you can use the rope as a snake.

I used a roll of black plastic when I put a new water line out to my garage. I plumbed it to a frost free hydrant in the garage, like said elsewhere above.
 
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DCarr

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Thanks for all the responses. Nothing else will ever be run through this line. And the asphalt will covering everything from the water meter to the shop, an area 16' x 90' will be the driveway a,=nd then next to the shop where the line will end with a spicket will be covered in asphalt also since thats where I park my car trailer. So if anything ever happens I'm going to have to tear up some asphalt somewhere.

A lot of good info has been provided and I do appreciate it !!!
 

2chipped

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Please.............................. please add an additional min 4in sleeve under any walkway,or driveway,for unseen future expansion .
My co installs 20 to 40 automated gate systems each year which causes a pain in the *** to run power under a driveway:spit:.
 

mrb

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put a sleeve, but run the water line next to it. i never understand why people put in a sleeve for later, then run something inside it when the trench is still open and that something could have been next to the sleeve -leave the sleeve empty for future use.
 
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DCarr

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Are you saying the spigot will be in the asphalt ?



No .. the spigot end of the pipe will be covered, the pipe will come out of the ground at the shop and the spigot will be approx. 2' above the ground.
 

Mr.N

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Careful using a sleeve if it's above the frost line, the sleeve will fill with water.
Water expands when frozen, and that's not good for any material.


Back in the day I trouble shot a lot of computer Cat5 wire that was in the ground.
The bare cable out lasted the sleeved stuff... unless the sleeve was filled with gel.
 

tkrum5

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Why not just use 1" black waterline, the coil stuff sold at every home store? That's what I have, it's dirt cheap doesn't split and with 50psi in it, is almost impossible to crush.
I can't imagine using copper the whole way especially with rocks, roots and what not trying to break it.
Just my thoughts the black plastic works easy and great.

This is what i used for mine. This is also what my house was feed with. I purchased a tee, cut the main line to the house, heated it up a little slid the tee on while it was still a little warm and used three ss clamps. Our building inspector said i did not even need the clamps. The larger PVC under the driveway would be nice but i don't think you would have any issues under there.
 

csp

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4" allows for unforeseen things in the future. IE: a second line, sprinklers, low voltage wiring etc.

Having done this a 2.5" pipe allows plenty of room for future expansion, IMO. I have two conduits of 2.5" running under the concrete pad in front of my garage. Two 1" lines for sprinklers run through one and the other is still empty but at the other end of the pad.
 

sasky

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Use the black poly in the coil, that is what all the farms use and it gets burried below the frost line atleast 8 feet, some guys that need it for seasonal use put it in shallower but you have to blow it out before winter. Never much trouble with it. Also used for sewer pump outs.
 

BirdRacer

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Maury Co. Columbia, TN.

I was informed by someone who is northme in TN, that their code was 18".

I know my water meters both at the house and at the shop arent but 12" below ground.

Howdy neighbor! I'm not too far from you, maybe 40 miles or so to the south. Ardmore, right on the TN/AL line. Went to high school in Fayetteville.
 
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